2015 Trail Premium w/o KDDS- Break in? EXPERTS WANTED
- Thread starter MaliciousClout
- Start date
Antman
Elite Member
Damn. The expert jus showd up in dis bish...
TheWraith
New member
seriously people ... who drag race import cars have 3 camps.
1) break it in like normal
2) rip on the motor on the dyno and then tune it
3) put break in oil, idle for 20 minutes, increase idle to 4000rpm for another 10 and shut her down and change oil out... then tune it ...
The way I did my little 2.2liter 244whp civic motor ... was get a drivability tune and drove it like normal. Kept my foot of it and broke it in. Oil Change at 500miles ... And then retuned for power at 1000miles ... She made 244whp all motor on 91pump octane. Then wifey got pregnant and I sold her ... lol
did the same thing on my 2.1liter 980whp Mr2 turbo motor as well
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MaliciousClout
New member
ound:
Engineer
New member
I didn't think that was legal? How much did she go for and did the gender of the child matter?
:tongue1:
NewguyNY
New member
That's a ton of great info. Thanks! I've always run AmsOil in most of my cars and was planning on doing the same now. I haven't reached first oil change interval yet though. Do you happen to know how AmsOil stacks up against this? Sounds like I may be better off sticking with OEM?
Well it really depends upon which Amsoil series you'd like to run. They have three main product lines for PGMO (passenger car motor oil) which all do contain a 0W-20 lube.
OE which is geared towards the manufacturer rated oil change interval
XL which is geared towards extended drain intervals
SS Signature Series, which is to be their crème de la crème, sporting best protection and longest drain interval
Below are screenshots from the Amsoil website showing the specs of each oil.
OE:
XL:
SS:
TGMO OW-20 (Toyota OE):
The TGMO specs are from my collective research.
Trying to find detailed specifications on OEM oils are always a challenge as a lot of the formulas and specs are proprietary or the blending organization doesn't care to share these details.
Any of the Amsoil choices would suit a 4Runner no problem. Honestly, for a daily driver, any commercially available 0W-20 would be a great fit. However, with that said, IMO, the TGMO has an edge with it being very light at startup, holding a good viscosity at operating temperature and decent TBN retention. It will easily go for the Toyota recommended oil change interval.
TBN, or Total Base Number, is the amount of additive the oil has. A higher TBN is usually synonymous with an extended drain motor oil formulated for long oil change intervals. ***DO NOT look at the Amsoil SS and think the TBN of 12 is going to do a 1GR-FE any benefit over a typical OCI versus TGMO, M1, any other 0W-20 lubricant. Unless your planning on stretching oil changes out to 15k miles or something, a TBN of 6-8 is just fine. There are many factors that come into play when figuring out TBN retention. No two engines will work the oil as we all drive different, have different climates and do different things.
You are not going to know how your motor "works" an oil unless you are keeping detailed records on your OCIs, doing used oil analyses and establishing trends. Then you can start to see how well the TBN retention of an oil is (in your engine), your wear levels, how well the lubricant is staying in grade (shear stability).
It is not cut and dry, but for those who like to split hairs, a good few days worth of forum searching on BobIsTheOilGuy or Google will help you form an educated opinion.
For those who want a simple concise answer -- ANY commercially available motor oil that is a 0W-20 (which by default should be a synthetic lubricant), API Service Grade SN, and Made for Gasoline Engines (with the starburst and donut on the bottle) is a great choice for your 1GR-FE 4Runner. Meet those specifications, and you'll have a happy engine. Oils have come a long way in the last 20 years.
OE which is geared towards the manufacturer rated oil change interval
XL which is geared towards extended drain intervals
SS Signature Series, which is to be their crème de la crème, sporting best protection and longest drain interval
Below are screenshots from the Amsoil website showing the specs of each oil.
OE:
XL:
SS:
TGMO OW-20 (Toyota OE):
The TGMO specs are from my collective research.
Trying to find detailed specifications on OEM oils are always a challenge as a lot of the formulas and specs are proprietary or the blending organization doesn't care to share these details.
Any of the Amsoil choices would suit a 4Runner no problem. Honestly, for a daily driver, any commercially available 0W-20 would be a great fit. However, with that said, IMO, the TGMO has an edge with it being very light at startup, holding a good viscosity at operating temperature and decent TBN retention. It will easily go for the Toyota recommended oil change interval.
TBN, or Total Base Number, is the amount of additive the oil has. A higher TBN is usually synonymous with an extended drain motor oil formulated for long oil change intervals. ***DO NOT look at the Amsoil SS and think the TBN of 12 is going to do a 1GR-FE any benefit over a typical OCI versus TGMO, M1, any other 0W-20 lubricant. Unless your planning on stretching oil changes out to 15k miles or something, a TBN of 6-8 is just fine. There are many factors that come into play when figuring out TBN retention. No two engines will work the oil as we all drive different, have different climates and do different things.
You are not going to know how your motor "works" an oil unless you are keeping detailed records on your OCIs, doing used oil analyses and establishing trends. Then you can start to see how well the TBN retention of an oil is (in your engine), your wear levels, how well the lubricant is staying in grade (shear stability).
It is not cut and dry, but for those who like to split hairs, a good few days worth of forum searching on BobIsTheOilGuy or Google will help you form an educated opinion.
For those who want a simple concise answer -- ANY commercially available motor oil that is a 0W-20 (which by default should be a synthetic lubricant), API Service Grade SN, and Made for Gasoline Engines (with the starburst and donut on the bottle) is a great choice for your 1GR-FE 4Runner. Meet those specifications, and you'll have a happy engine. Oils have come a long way in the last 20 years.
Last edited:
jreask
Member
WOW. That was impressive. I learned something there. I have a 2015 TE Premium and I just changed the oil at 4700 miles. Toyota Care will do the next one free. Why did I change it at 4700 miles? I have always changed oil in a new engine before the recommended interval. WHy? IDK?
LOL
NewguyNY
New member
Well it really depends upon which Amsoil series you'd like to run. They have three main product lines for PGMO (passenger car motor oil) which all do contain a 0W-20 lube.
OE which is geared towards the manufacturer rated oil change interval
XL which is geared towards extended drain intervals
SS Signature Series, which is to be their crème de la crème, sporting best protection and longest drain interval
Below are screenshots from the Amsoil website showing the specs of each oil.
OE:
XL:
SS:
TGMO OW-20 (Toyota OE):
The TGMO specs are from my collective research.
Trying to find detailed specifications on OEM oils are always a challenge as a lot of the formulas and specs are proprietary or the blending organization doesn't care to share these details.
Any of the Amsoil choices would suit a 4Runner no problem. Honestly, for a daily driver, any commercially available 0W-20 would be a great fit. However, with that said, IMO, the TGMO has an edge with it being very light at startup, holding a good viscosity at operating temperature and decent TBN retention. It will easily go for the Toyota recommended oil change interval.
TBN, or Total Base Number, is the amount of additive the oil has. A higher TBN is usually synonymous with an extended drain motor oil formulated for long oil change intervals. ***DO NOT look at the Amsoil SS and think the TBN of 12 is going to do a 1GR-FE any benefit over a typical OCI versus TGMO, M1, any other 0W-20 lubricant. Unless your planning on stretching oil changes out to 15k miles or something, a TBN of 6-8 is just fine. There are many factors that come into play when figuring out TBN retention. No two engines will work the oil as we all drive different, have different climates and do different things.
You are not going to know how your motor "works" an oil unless you are keeping detailed records on your OCIs, doing used oil analyses and establishing trends. Then you can start to see how well the TBN retention of an oil is (in your engine), your wear levels, how well the lubricant is staying in grade (shear stability).
It is not cut and dry, but for those who like to split hairs, a good few days worth of forum searching on BobIsTheOilGuy or Google will help you form an educated opinion.
For those who want a simple concise answer -- ANY commercially available motor oil that is a 0W-20 (which by default should be a synthetic lubricant), API Service Grade SN, and Made for Gasoline Engines (with the starburst and donut on the bottle) is a great choice for your 1GR-FE 4Runner. Meet those specifications, and you'll have a happy engine. Oils have come a long way in the last 20 years.
That is incredibly helpful man. Thank you very much!
FrontRange4Runner
New member
IMHO, having no explanation is much better than having a wildly misinformed one.
Logan714
New member
That is hands down the best way to determine fuel dilution.
Sorry to revive this somewhat older thread..
Was reading about the break-in procedures (I know there is still a lot of debate regarding this), but the manual specifically mentions avoiding "constant speeds for extended periods of time." I believe this has to do with properly seating the piston rings?
Now I drove my new 4runner from AZ to CA and used cruise control for good long stretches keeping the speed mainly 60-65 mph. Total trip was about 300 miles, not all of that with CC. Anything to worry about? Super paranoid now.
Was reading about the break-in procedures (I know there is still a lot of debate regarding this), but the manual specifically mentions avoiding "constant speeds for extended periods of time." I believe this has to do with properly seating the piston rings?
Now I drove my new 4runner from AZ to CA and used cruise control for good long stretches keeping the speed mainly 60-65 mph. Total trip was about 300 miles, not all of that with CC. Anything to worry about? Super paranoid now.
wfo9
New member
You used cruise control!!!!!!!!!!! And you made it????? Engine destroyed!
LOL.
Seriously though. they build cars to pretty much deal with anything these days. You can abuse the crap out of it off the lot and basically have no problems at all. On the other hand, you can baby it all day, change the oil every 500mi and have a million problems. Some of it is just dumb luck.
Drive it, follow the basic maintenance guide and don't worry about it.
Your new 4Runner will be fine - just vary the speed/rpm for the next few hundred miles
Blitzkrieg
New member
It harkens back to the days (which I still believe in because pistons are still pistons and rings are still rings) that putting a motor under varying loads (not high RPM but load as in you are loading the motor up before the transmission shifts down) is good for seating the rings.
Here is the rub:
Motors today are machined to such close tolerances that in reality it probably doesn't make a rats behind of difference.
My TE just hit 500 miles today. I varied the speed and load as much as I could but IMO did it make a huge difference (and this is coming from somebody who has built numerous high HP motors in his day) - probably not.
Follow the manuals break-in procedure as best you can and don't over-rev the motor. IMO those are the two most important things.
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