31" or 33" BFG MT?

[Alabama4Runner]

Apologies for posting multiple questions recently. :bigok:

I'm going with an OME suspension lift for my 1985 4Runner. Heavy up front and medium rear. I have 8" rims and 3 tire choices. 31x10.50R15 was my original idea and I was going to change the diff's to 4.56.

Seriously thinking now about either 33x10.50R15 or 33x 12.50R15 with 4.88 diff's. I will be adding some Bushwacker Extend-A-Fender flares but I don't want to have to go to cut-outs. Something tells me the OME 3" won't let the 33's clear without cutting.

Anyone have first-hand experience with the OME and 33's on a first generation?

Thanks :biggrin2:

 

[n8buddy]

with a 3' lift you MIGHT be able to sqeeze 33s in, maybe with some rubbing under full articulation. Im not sure thou, i dont know alot on the subject with 1st gens. why not go with 32x11.50R15? they would probably fit in nicely and you wouldnt even have to swap gears. (what gears do you have now?)

 

[Alabama4Runner]

Thanks. Right now I have the stock 4.11 gears but if I go to 31" I will change to 4.56 and if I go to 33", I will install 4.88. I'm going to put some type of limited slip or lockers front and rear at the same time (probably Detroit Truetrac front and either the same or a Detroit locker rear).

I suspect I will just go with the 31" in the end but the 32" might be another option to look at.

 

[fourwd1]

Go with the 33"/4.88's.
You can always add a 1-2" BL to get a little more room for the tires if needed.

If you can afford it throw a locker in the rear when you get it regeared. It will save a lot of $ on labor doing it all at once.

 

[Alabama4Runner]

Go with the 33"/4.88's.
You can always add a 1-2" BL to get a little more room for the tires if needed.

If you can afford it throw a locker in the rear when you get it regeared. It will save a lot of $ on labor doing it all at once.

Awfully tempting to go with 33". I wil be putting some type of locker or at minimum truetrac front and rear at the same time. Probably Truetrac up front and either truetrac or detroit locker in the rear. My only hesitation with the full locker is that 2 of my children have started driving (out of 4) and I want them to be able to drive around when we're in the country (we live in the UK and only get back to Alabama a couple of times a year). The vehicle has only been used to hunt in on our property for the last 5 years so it only has to cope with a few hills and slick mud.

Thanks for the advice.

 

[Alex 400]

Thanks. Right now I have the stock 4.11 gears but if I go to 31" I will change to 4.56 and if I go to 33", I will install 4.88. I'm going to put some type of limited slip or lockers front and rear at the same time (probably Detroit Truetrac front and either the same or a Detroit locker rear).

I suspect I will just go with the 31" in the end but the 32" might be another option to look at.

Or maybe a skinney 33"? I don't off road really but i understand the principle of the upgrading process and some rules of thumb. Lift with tires, get articulation from different springs. Maybe like the 3" your talking about with sway bar disconnects. Then your not really high, but have some decent articulation. You might also look into folding shackles that unfold to give you extra articulation but no intial lift so it keeps you center of gravity low. BFG makes 33/9.50 a/t and you can get a 33/10.50 radial super swampers. Those might be able to squeeze up into the fenders without cutting. You might have to trim a little bit. but mostly to keep them from scrubbin. Good Luck

 

[hodgepodge79]

IMO, 8" wide rim is a bit too wide for a 10.50 tire. (you are more likely to lose a bead or pinch the side wall or you'll have to stay aired up ~24psi)

If you are stuck with 8" rims, I would suggest the 32x11.50 or 33x12.50.

I generally have read that for street use, the rim width should be ~2" more narrow that the tire width, and for offroad, 3"-4" more narrow. Just my $0.02.

I have run 30x9.50's on both the stock 6" rim and now 7" rim. At 18psi, the side wall is significantly MORE bulged with the 7" rim. So, to be safe, I run 24psi now.

 

[Alabama4Runner]

IMO, 8" wide rim is a bit too wide for a 10.50 tire. (you are more likely to lose a bead or pinch the side wall or you'll have to stay aired up ~24psi)

If you are stuck with 8" rims, I would suggest the 32x11.50 or 33x12.50.

I generally have read that for street use, the rim width should be ~2" more narrow that the tire width, and for offroad, 3"-4" more narrow. Just my $0.02.

I have run 30x9.50's on both the stock 6" rim and now 7" rim. At 18psi, the side wall is significantly MORE bulged with the 7" rim. So, to be safe, I run 24psi now.

Thanks, that's a very good point. I'm actually not sure if the rims are 7" or 8". They are probably 7" as I am running BFG 235/75R15 T/A and I don't think you can easily put those on an 8" rim. Looks like I might have to actually powerwash these old turbine rims and keep them.

I would measure them but I'm in the UK and the 4Runner is back home in Alabama.

 

[Alabama4Runner]

Trying to get picture size right on this post! First time for everything.

1985 stock with 150k on odometer. I've owned since 1986. About to undergo major upgrade. Little to no rust so figure I might as well keep it forever!

 

[Alabama4Runner]

Before anyone asks....the hood was open when the picture was taken....and that's red mud on the side.