35's can't be impossible...

[Havik]

I was in the same boat as you as far as 4.56 vs 4.88. I ended up going with 4.56 as I wanted to keep it as driveable (somewhat low RPMS) as possible for DD duty which sees the rig sans swingout, roof rack, and camping gear.

I have 315's and a lot of weight when in trip mode and tow now that I have a trailer so that's where the 4.88 looked more tempting. in the end I was able to lug around the trailer and weight ok with the 3.73 so I figured the 4.56 would make it pretty well off.

I'm assuming your situation doesn't match mine so its kind of tough to give you advice but that was my take on it.

Thanks, that's good feedback. My situation is a bit different. I don't use my 4Runner for daily driving, it's a weekend rig only. I also don't tow anything with it, but I do a lot of highway miles getting to the trail so I want decent revs at 75 to 80 MPH. I guess what I'm looking for is to get back to the stock ratio (stock tire size on 3.73's, whatever that ends up being). I guess I can find a calculator online that can help me determine that.

 

[Jetboy]

I would not try to replicate OEM gearing. The OEM gearing was barely adequate with stock tires. I think the OEM should have been 4.10 or 4.30. For 35's I would probably go to 4.56 for highway use, but if you think you may want to go bigger, i'd go to 4.88 now. I don't 4.88 will seem too low.

If you consider as a comparison the RX350 with roughly the same engine - and I recognize a 6th gear - has 4.40 gears stock with much smaller tires, 4.88 with 35's is not out of the range of normal gearing. If you wanted to use a calculator I'd start with trying to get back to something more like 4.10 as a starting point.

 

[BigredTEX]

Thanks, that's good feedback. My situation is a bit different. I don't use my 4Runner for daily driving, it's a weekend rig only. I also don't tow anything with it, but I do a lot of highway miles getting to the trail so I want decent revs at 75 to 80 MPH. I guess what I'm looking for is to get back to the stock ratio (stock tire size on 3.73's, whatever that ends up being). I guess I can find a calculator online that can help me determine that.

I've posted this link several times - it's the best gear calculator I've found and has proven to be very accurate.

http://http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

My advice would be to lean towards 4.56 if you still need highway legs. 4.88's would be ideal if it was a dedicated trail rig.

Also, speaking from experience, these rigs are solid as a rock with tire sizes up to 33", but larger tires start to expose some weak links. I'd recommend you start carrying a spare inner and outer tie rod set and CV axle. The 8.2 rear end is significantly stronger than the 8.0 and I haven't seen one break yet, but I have seen a number of 8.0's blow up with 35" tires. My son's 4th Gen is sitting in the driveway now waiting for his diff's to come back from getting 4.56 gears. He blew the rear diff and has broken both tie rods and CV axles since going to 35's.

I would expect the setup would be the same on the 5th as it is on the 4th Gen for getting 35's to fit. I haven't read this entire thread so you may have already received all the advice you need. I intend to go to a 34" tire later this year when I need new tires and don't foresee too many issues.

 

[Havik]

I've posted this link several times - it's the best gear calculator I've found and has proven to be very accurate.

http://http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

My advice would be to lean towards 4.56 if you still need highway legs. 4.88's would be ideal if it was a dedicated trail rig.

Also, speaking from experience, these rigs are solid as a rock with tire sizes up to 33", but larger tires start to expose some weak links. I'd recommend you start carrying a spare inner and outer tie rod set and CV axle. The 8.2 rear end is significantly stronger than the 8.0 and I haven't seen one break yet, but I have seen a number of 8.0's blow up with 35" tires. My son's 4th Gen is sitting in the driveway now waiting for his diff's to come back from getting 4.56 gears. He blew the rear diff and has broken both tie rods and CV axles since going to 35's.

I would expect the setup would be the same on the 5th as it is on the 4th Gen for getting 35's to fit. I haven't read this entire thread so you may have already received all the advice you need. I intend to go to a 34" tire later this year when I need new tires and don't foresee too many issues.

Thanks for the link. I looks like 4.56 is going to be the way to go for me. The difference between the stock setup and the new setup with 4.56's should be about 400 RPM at 80 MPH. That seems like a great compromise.

Also thanks for your input about the extra parts, I will get a set and carry them with me.

 

[wfo9]

I'll second 4.56. It's about ideal for the tires I run that are 34.1". If you go with a 315... it will really only be 34.6 or so. Even a true 35 would be fine. 4.88 is better offroad, but really the transfer case is where that should be done.

 

[Havik]

I'll second 4.56. It's about ideal for the tires I run that are 34.1". If you go with a 315... it will really only be 34.6 or so. Even a true 35 would be fine. 4.88 is better offroad, but really the transfer case is where that should be done.

I'm going with a "true" 35X12.5X17. I went with the Toyo Open Country AT2's:
https://www.toyotires.com/tire/pattern/open-country-at-ii-on-off-road-all-terrain-tires

I've heard great things about these tires so I thought I would give them a shot.

 

[Havik]

So after speaking to a few more people and the shop that will be installing the gears, I've decided to go with 4.88 Yukon gears and an ARB locker up front. I think this combo with the 35's tires and all the added weight on my rig will give the best performance while not limiting my highway drive-ability. The truck is at the shop now getting everything installed (tires, gears, locker, bumpstops, body lift, etc.) I'll post an update and pictures when it is done. Thanks again to everyone with their suggestions and information.

 

[Havik]

Here is the front bumper installed in preparation for the 35's:

 

[rtinniste]

Good choice on the 4:88's don't fear the gear I was told that by Nick at airram the only guy that builds and races dodge 4.7 motors.

On my last 2 dodges both slow 4.7 v8's both 3:73s both 2004's
both lifted 4.5 inches on 35's both had new rebuilt motors from the same guy both rear ends were built by the same gear shop. Identical in every way except interior color and the newest one I added a locker. I also commute 130 miles round trip to work so they were being driven daily.

Every calculator I checked it recommended 4:10's to be back to stock feel. (Also make sure you use a calculator with the option to input your overdrive ratio)

Dodge 1- I went 4:56 on the gearing. Still felt slow didn't notice much in mpg gains but was better then the stock gearing, on uphill freeway stretches or passing it would drop a gear and want to rev out to the moon. Never felt like I was in the powerband always felt like I had a load on the engine or a dead spot or really have to get into the throttle to pass. My avg mpg was 13.5

Dodge 2- Went with 4:88's and a detroit locker. Hands down it felt like a completely different truck. It rarely would down shift on up hill sections of the freeways it would just pull no drama would hold a constant speed, it would down shift when I'd pass and for once crusing on the freeway. Freeway rpm was around 2300 rpm at 75 but because there was almost no load on the motor and it was cruising in its powerband the motor was happy. I drove 1000 miles total from Los Angeles to mammoth and Bodie. I cruised 80 most of the way there in cruise control and I averaged 21 mpg. My avg for mixed driving was about 15.

Every car/truck will be different and I'm in no way comparing a dodge to the 4r for what it should be geared, what I'm getting at is you can't base gear selection off what you have stock. Most cars are geared higher then they should be to get thru the emissions testing and their mpg ratings I really feel like those are tested under ideal flat no head wind conditions. There's no reason for gearing that will get you over 130 mph the fastest I've ever had my 4runner is maybe 100 if even that, its not a sports car. But I'm also not the type to just cruise 65 on the freeway in the slow lane like all my jeep friends especially on long trips.

Personally for the 4r I feel like 33's should be 4:56 and 35's or bigger should be a 4:88 or even lower if that's even possible. Especially with how loaded down some of these rigs get steel bumpers, sliders, roofracks, etc. All I know is my stock gearing on 285/70's is livable sure, but not ideal. Even stock it felt kind of bogged down. I just don't have the budget for all that currently with a new house and a remodel in the picture.


My post is extremely long winded but just want to throw my 2 cents out there and what I have experienced with re-gearing.

 

[bimrunner]

Good choice on the 4:88's don't fear the gear I was told that by Nick at airram the only guy that builds and races dodge 4.7 motors.

On my last 2 dodges both slow 4.7 v8's both 3:73s both 2004's
both lifted 4.5 inches on 35's both had new rebuilt motors from the same guy both rear ends were built by the same gear shop. Identical in every way except interior color and the newest one I added a locker. I also commute 130 miles round trip to work so they were being driven daily.

Every calculator I checked it recommended 4:10's to be back to stock feel. (Also make sure you use a calculator with the option to input your overdrive ratio)

Dodge 1- I went 4:56 on the gearing. Still felt slow didn't notice much in mpg gains but was better then the stock gearing, on uphill freeway stretches or passing it would drop a gear and want to rev out to the moon. Never felt like I was in the powerband always felt like I had a load on the engine or a dead spot or really have to get into the throttle to pass. My avg mpg was 13.5

Dodge 2- Went with 4:88's and a detroit locker. Hands down it felt like a completely different truck. It rarely would down shift on up hill sections of the freeways it would just pull no drama would hold a constant speed, it would down shift when I'd pass and for once crusing on the freeway. Freeway rpm was around 2300 rpm at 75 but because there was almost no load on the motor and it was cruising in its powerband the motor was happy. I drove 1000 miles total from Los Angeles to mammoth and Bodie. I cruised 80 most of the way there in cruise control and I averaged 21 mpg. My avg for mixed driving was about 15.

Every car/truck will be different and I'm in no way comparing a dodge to the 4r for what it should be geared, what I'm getting at is you can't base gear selection off what you have stock. Most cars are geared higher then they should be to get thru the emissions testing and their mpg ratings I really feel like those are tested under ideal flat no head wind conditions. There's no reason for gearing that will get you over 130 mph the fastest I've ever had my 4runner is maybe 100 if even that, its not a sports car. But I'm also not the type to just cruise 65 on the freeway in the slow lane like all my jeep friends especially on long trips.

Personally for the 4r I feel like 33's should be 4:56 and 35's or bigger should be a 4:88 or even lower if that's even possible. Especially with how loaded down some of these rigs get steel bumpers, sliders, roofracks, etc. All I know is my stock gearing on 285/70's is livable sure, but not ideal. Even stock it felt kind of bogged down. I just don't have the budget for all that currently with a new house and a remodel in the picture.


My post is extremely long winded but just want to throw my 2 cents out there and what I have experienced with re-gearing.

Biggest difference is that the Dodge has a nice big diff housing. The little 8.0 and 8.2s we have make going to 4:88 more risky of stripping out the gear teeth. 4:56 feels like driving with 285s on stock gears to me but the pinion gear teeth are thicker and stronger. Modding these is a lesson in trade-offs. Everyone decides based on their own rubric of pro/con here though. Ymmv.

 

[jacksparrow]

Here is the front bumper installed in preparation for the 35's:

I like your front bumper. What brand is it? Is it a direct bolt on? No cutting/drilling involved?

 

[rtinniste]

Biggest difference is that the Dodge has a nice big diff housing. The little 8.0 and 8.2s we have make going to 4:88 more risky of stripping out the gear teeth. 4:56 feels like driving with 285s on stock gears to me but the pinion gear teeth are thicker and stronger. Modding these is a lesson in trade-offs. Everyone decides based on their own rubric of pro/con here though. Ymmv.

True I forgot about that and that's a good point. Ram 1500 housing isn't much bigger its a 8.25 ring gear c clip rearend. And it was the same issue when going 4:88's on it thats the lowest you can go and something had to be ground down internally to fit the 4:88's.

Another thing that could be a issue is harmonics when they get thinner I know my dodge had a slight howl but that was a given with those gears. We put a crush sleeve eliminator and my backlash and contact pattern were all within spec and still had the noise. But it was a $4k dodge with a detroit locker so noise wasn't a concern. Would be a different story on a $36k truck tho.

 

[FactoryRide]

Biggest difference is that the Dodge has a nice big diff housing. The little 8.0 and 8.2s we have make going to 4:88 more risky of stripping out the gear teeth. 4:56 feels like driving with 285s on stock gears to me but the pinion gear teeth are thicker and stronger. Modding these is a lesson in trade-offs. Everyone decides based on their own rubric of pro/con here though. Ymmv.

This is one of the primary reasons I'm leaning to 4.56s. I'm going to be pulling the trigger on gears once I get my mini truck sold.

It's a daily toss up for me. I want 4.88s, but I also drive 75-80mph on the hwy. I don't want to lose that drive-ability going to that gear.

 

[Havik]

I like your front bumper. What brand is it? Is it a direct bolt on? No cutting/drilling involved?

This is a Pelfreybilt bumper, no cutting or drilling. Link:2014-2017 4Runner Steel Front Plate Bumper (SR5/Trail/Limited) | Off Road Bumper Pelfreybilt

 

[Havik]

This is one of the primary reasons I'm leaning to 4.56s. I'm going to be pulling the trigger on gears once I get my mini truck sold.

It's a daily toss up for me. I want 4.88s, but I also drive 75-80mph on the hwy. I don't want to lose that drive-ability going to that gear.

What size tires are you running? If you are running 33's or smaller, I wouldn't suggest anything bigger than the 4.56's. I went 4.88's because I will be running them with 35" tires.

 

[jacksparrow]

This is a Pelfreybilt bumper, no cutting or drilling. Link:2014-2017 4Runner Steel Front Plate Bumper (SR5/Trail/Limited) | Off Road Bumper Pelfreybilt

Thanks!
How do you like it? Any complaints? Is it DIY job or did you have to take it to a shop? Did it come powder coated or did you take it else where? I like it that it's not shiny....kinda looks matte black.

 

[Havik]

Thanks!
How do you like it? Any complaints? Is it DIY job or did you have to take it to a shop?

I had a shop install it. It would take at least 2 to 3 people to install it. It's heavy and has a tendency to tip forward so it would need 2 people just to hold it up right and a third to bolt it on.

No complaints so far, but I've only driven it a about 200 miles.

 

[jacksparrow]

I had a shop install it. It would take at least 2 to 3 people to install it. It's heavy and has a tendency to tip forward so it would need 2 people just to hold it up right and a third to bolt it on.

No complaints so far, but I've only driven it a about 200 miles.

How much did they charge for it? Did it come powder coated or did you take it else where? I like it that it's not shiny....kinda looks matte black.

Sorry, too many questions. Just want to know all the details before I drop couple of grand on it.

 

[Havik]

How much did they charge for it? Did it come powder coated or did you take it else where? I like it that it's not shiny....kinda looks matte black.

Sorry, too many questions. Just want to know all the details before I drop couple of grand on it.

The link I gave shows pricing for the bumper and powder coating. I had them powder coat it before shipping it out.

 

[FactoryRide]

What size tires are you running? If you are running 33's or smaller, I wouldn't suggest anything bigger than the 4.56's. I went 4.88's because I will be running them with 35" tires.

I'm on 315s.