35's can't be impossible...

[Havik]

I'm on 315s.

What's the aspect ratio or diameter?

 

[FactoryRide]

What's the aspect ratio or diameter?

They're 315/70/17. The metric 35. They measure out closer to like a 34.6ish.

 

[Havik]

They're 315/70/17. The metric 35. They measure out closer to like a 34.6ish.

Okay so you're good either way. 4.56 or 4.88 will work fine for you.

 

[Havik]

35's are definitely possible! I went with Toyo's Open Country A/T 2's in 35X12.5X17's:

Like I said above, I went with 4.88 gears and decided to throw in an ARB front locker while I was at it:

My thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread with actual helpful advice.

 

[LawnDart]

Fit? yes. Work well outside of pavement conditions? not really.

You're going to find with the suspension fully cycling that the fender wells are going to get creamed, mid travel or long travel regardless, and they'll do some damage.

If the goal is to run 35s and just look mean on the street, sure. But there's some major clearance issues that happen with 35s.

I found those out somewhere around San Felipe when we double stuff'd my 35s. Keep in mind tires deform, under impacts, and when you test clearances if at full upwards cycle you have half an inch of clearance that's not nearly a clearance.

So yes, is it possible to run 35s? yes totally, but well? I'd say very mixed bag.

If I keep my 4Runner I have to tub my fenderwells and relocate some of the fender mounts to provide as much clearance as possible. Light offroading and street I never had issues, but actually using the truck as intended? oh yeah buddy, we were tearing shit off before we really hit the mild stuff.

 

[Havik]

Fit? yes. Work well outside of pavement conditions? not really.

You're going to find with the suspension fully cycling that the fender wells are going to get creamed, mid travel or long travel regardless, and they'll do some damage.

If the goal is to run 35s and just look mean on the street, sure. But there's some major clearance issues that happen with 35s.

I found those out somewhere around San Felipe when we double stuff'd my 35s. Keep in mind tires deform, under impacts, and when you test clearances if at full upwards cycle you have half an inch of clearance that's not nearly a clearance.

So yes, is it possible to run 35s? yes totally, but well? I'd say very mixed bag.

If I keep my 4Runner I have to tub my fenderwells and relocate some of the fender mounts to provide as much clearance as possible. Light offroading and street I never had issues, but actually using the truck as intended? oh yeah buddy, we were tearing shit off before we really hit the mild stuff.

I have no issue tearing out the fender wells. I might even go with the fiberglass flaired fenders someone is making (from another thread on here). I plan on keeping my rig for a while so I don't mind investing, changing, and some trial and error along the way.

 

[LawnDart]

I have no issue tearing out the fender wells. I might even go with the fiberglass flaired fenders someone is making (from another thread on here). I plan on keeping my rig for a while so I don't mind investing, changing, and some trial and error along the way.

The fenderwells are not the issue, fenders themselves don't provide enough clearance, Clarance.

For 90 percent of the time you won't be stuffing them, but for the 10 percent you do the path of least resistance will result in this*:

*that's not my door that's slightly open...those are my fenders bent out about 1.5-2"

 

[Havik]

The fenderwells are not the issue, fenders themselves don't provide enough clearance, Clarance.

For 90 percent of the time you won't be stuffing them, but for the 10 percent you do the path of least resistance will result in this*:

*that's not my door that's slightly open...those are my fenders bent out about 1.5-2"

So it looks like the flaired fenders are the way to go.

 

[LawnDart]

So it looks like the flaired fenders are the way to go.

I'll be honest, I've never seen glassed fenders that look at all good visually like OEM metal fenders. I'll reserve judgement on the ones being developed, but for my needs I may just tub my fenders and test, check, re-tub.

I'd say the only way to really ensure it'll cycle properly is to run them, find out where they hit, and cut extensively. I'm going to have to modify my fenders in a few months, and take the truck out to eastern oregon and see if I can find or replicate terrain to see how the suspension cycles under full stuff at speed.

I know people have run into this same issue even on 34s, 35s just make it worse. If it was easy everyone would be doing it.

 

[4Running303]

I'd say the only way to really ensure it'll cycle properly is to run them, find out where they hit, and cut extensively. I'm going to have to modify my fenders in a few months, and take the truck out to eastern oregon and see if I can find or replicate terrain to see how the suspension cycles under full stuff at speed.

I know people have run into this same issue even on 34s, 35s just make it worse. If it was easy everyone would be doing it.

This! Truth!

Was at FJSummit this past weekend and I kept my spyderco knife in my pocket. I'm running 305/70/17's...~34". Plastic was easy to trim, the trail rocker endcap was easy to pop off as well, but where it touches metal outboard of my body mounts (BM-chop was fine, no rub there) is going to be difficult to remedy...or I'll just live with that. I checked out Demello's 4Runner and I plan to do a similar trim job...basically hack off the entire mount for the plastic rocker end cap, trim the lower portion of the flare, cut off more of the plastic fender liner...to about the the third bolt and remove them.

Then take it back out, wheel, and see where it rubs. And then maybe ditch my KDSS!

 

[LawnDart]

This! Truth!

It'll depend on your suspension travel, I don't think I'm hitting in the rear near that pinch weld, but I have too much uptravel for the space I have available.

I can remedy a bit of that with my compression settings on my shocks, but the underside of my fender flares is gone, totally melted and chewed through, and then the tire hit the metal fender lips on the inside, and when those wouldn't give the fenders bent out.

You won't do this damage when you're going super slow, but at moderate to higher speeds that energy goes somewhere.

 

[Flahart]

This! Truth!

Was at FJSummit this past weekend and I kept my spyderco knife in my pocket. I'm running 305/70/17's...~34". Plastic was easy to trim, the trail rocker endcap was easy to pop off as well, but where it touches metal outboard of my body mounts (BM-chop was fine, no rub there) is going to be difficult to remedy...or I'll just live with that. I checked out Demello's 4Runner and I plan to do a similar trim job...basically hack off the entire mount for the plastic rocker end cap, trim the lower portion of the flare, cut off more of the plastic fender liner...to about the the third bolt and remove them.

Then take it back out, wheel, and see where it rubs. And then maybe ditch my KDSS!

Pull the coilover and cycle with a jack in your garage, easy to do. I fit 315's or even a 37 BFG (they run super small) on one of my 1st gen Tacoma's this way. I cut the stock bumps in half and used that as my compression stop and still tried to make sure I had 0.5" of clearance around the tire at full stuff. No problems so far.

 

[LawnDart]

Half an inch is not enough clearance if you hit anything at decent speeds and aired down, as the tire will go from a circle to more like an egg shape as it deforms on impact, driving the mass upwards.

Static cycling is great, it gives a starting point, but real world things compress on impact. My truck handled great for the 9 months of trail driving, but basically fell apart an hour into anything involving stuff over 40mph that involved whoops.

 

[Flahart]

Half an inch is not enough clearance if you hit anything at decent speeds and aired down, as the tire will go from a circle to more like an egg shape as it deforms on impact, driving the mass upwards.

Static cycling is great, it gives a starting point, but real world things compress on impact. My truck handled great for the 9 months of trail driving, but basically fell apart an hour into anything involving stuff over 40mph that involved whoops.

I agree and I tubbed 3" out of the cab on my extra cab but haven't made it back to Baja to prerun anything in 5+ years so it might rub but there isn't a pinch weld there anymore to cut the tire, mostly smooth sheet metal.

I've built a few prerunner in my day and what you think will clear or not be an issue during the build can ruin your day/trip pretty quickly. That said, I will not be taking my 5th gen to mexico anytime soon! But for simple bolt ons and air'd down 265's it works great here in CO with the family and our gear inside. Maybe it's the shock tuning... :becky:

 

[Havik]

I hear you both, I know there is still a lot of work to do to get it all working right out on the trail, but I'm looking forward to it. After all, that's the hobby, right? I'm glad I took the plunge and went to 35's. I think the flared fenders are going to help a lot and I really don't care if they look good.

Thanks again for your help, info, advice, and warnings. They are truly appreciated.