**35's on a 4th Gen - The Fitment Guide**

[Inv4drZm]

Is installing a solid pinion spacer into an oem diff something worth doing. Or is this in response to blowing it up. And if it is, how would you go about doing it

Send it in to ECGS, or wait for it to blow up then send it in. Something like $850 though. But you could add a locker/regear at the same time.

Or you might find a guy locally that can swap in a solid spacer.

Honestly even with 34's I think you are in the danger zone.

 

[Billynath1988]

Send it in to ECGS, or wait for it to blow up then send it in. Something like $850 though. But you could add a locker/regear at the same time.

Or you might find a guy locally that can swap in a solid spacer.

Honestly even with 34's I think you are in the danger zone.

Yeah, I guess ill just have to be mentally and financially prepared for that then and keep my eye out for an FJ 8.2 on standby

 

[JuniorPigeon]

Alright, so I've read through every single post of this thread thanks to being slow at work. All kinds of good info!

I currently have a 3rd SR5 & 5th TRD Pro, both lifted on 285/70s. I'm going to be selling the 5th gen and trying to get hold of a 4th. I'll be daily driving the 3rd so I want to make the jump to 35s and more extreme mods on the 4th to have my travel/wheeling rig. I've just got a few specific questions.

My idea as of now is the Icon Stage 5 lift, so I can have resis and get what seems to be the two important arms. Or I'll piece a 3"/2" lift together. With a 1"-1.5" BL in addition to that. For those that have the Icon UCAs, were you able to get enough caster out of them to clear chopped body mounts with ease? And with the lower links, what seems to be the consensus on moving the axle back, ~1"? Is this a particular flexy setup? I'd like to go without dropping the bump stops, I'm not afraid to cut.

As for the solid diff bushing, is it worth just installing that in a stock rear? I kind of don't want to re-gear or do lockers, since I think (hope) the fatory ATRAC will suffice. I have also just considered a Spartan locker in the rear.

With 35s and stock drivetrain/relatively stock arms, what parts do you carry with you? Basically what do you expect to break lol.

And last I guess, anyone with a similar setup and a low-pro roof rack (Prinsu) have a total height measurement? Slightly worried about getting it into my garage where it will have to be.

I'm also torn between V6 and V8, if you want to sell me on that haha. Thanks!

 

[That_Titanium_4RNR]

Alright, so I've read through every single post of this thread thanks to being slow at work. All kinds of good info!

I currently have a 3rd SR5 & 5th TRD Pro, both lifted on 285/70s. I'm going to be selling the 5th gen and trying to get hold of a 4th. I'll be daily driving the 3rd so I want to make the jump to 35s and more extreme mods on the 4th to have my travel/wheeling rig. I've just got a few specific questions.

My idea as of now is the Icon Stage 5 lift, so I can have resis and get what seems to be the two important arms. Or I'll piece a 3"/2" lift together. With a 1"-1.5" BL in addition to that. For those that have the Icon UCAs, were you able to get enough caster out of them to clear chopped body mounts with ease? And with the lower links, what seems to be the consensus on moving the axle back, ~1"? Is this a particular flexy setup? I'd like to go without dropping the bump stops, I'm not afraid to cut.

As for the solid diff bushing, is it worth just installing that in a stock rear? I kind of don't want to re-gear or do lockers, since I think (hope) the fatory ATRAC will suffice.

With 35s and stock drivetrain/relatively stock arms, what parts do you carry with you? Basically what do you expect to break lol.

And last I guess, anyone with a similar setup and a low-pro roof rack (Prinsu) have a total height measurement? Slightly worried about getting it into my garage where it will have to be.

I'm also torn between V6 and V8, if you want to sell me on that haha. Thanks!

I don't think that keeping stock gear ratio with a v8 or v6 and 35s is a good idea. I'm on 34s now and it's definitely taking a toll on driveability. Gears are in my future.

Also something to keep in mind, if you get a v8 most likely it will have an exhaust leak which will require the replacement of the exhaust manifolds (where the crack is). If you decide to run the BL with the Doug Thorley headers (the only good replacement option for the exhaust) you will have to figure out a way to get the steering shaft to clear the side of the headers. Some on this forum have used flat head bolts on the steering shaft or shaved down the head a bit on the stock bolt. Others have added some light dents or "dimpled" their exhaust header tubes to get them to fit without rubbing. You won't have any performance decrease by doing this but it will be slightly unsightly...

Just letting you know that before you buy stuff.

All that being said, I have a V8 and plan to run a BL to help out with the clearance of my 34s and the exhaust is definitely in my future too. So these are issues I will have to deal with when the time arises but I still am SOOOO glad I chose the V8. If you're still torn between the V6 and V8 after reading a lot about both I would highly recommend that you just drive both, because then you'll really be able to see the difference. I did that and it was obvious for me at that point which one I wanted.

 

[Inv4drZm]

Alright, so I've read through every single post of this thread thanks to being slow at work. All kinds of good info!

I currently have a 3rd SR5 & 5th TRD Pro, both lifted on 285/70s. I'm going to be selling the 5th gen and trying to get hold of a 4th. I'll be daily driving the 3rd so I want to make the jump to 35s and more extreme mods on the 4th to have my travel/wheeling rig. I've just got a few specific questions.

My idea as of now is the Icon Stage 5 lift, so I can have resis and get what seems to be the two important arms. Or I'll piece a 3"/2" lift together. With a 1"-1.5" BL in addition to that. For those that have the Icon UCAs, were you able to get enough caster out of them to clear chopped body mounts with ease? And with the lower links, what seems to be the consensus on moving the axle back, ~1"? Is this a particular flexy setup? I'd like to go without dropping the bump stops, I'm not afraid to cut.

As for the solid diff bushing, is it worth just installing that in a stock rear? I kind of don't want to re-gear or do lockers, since I think (hope) the fatory ATRAC will suffice. I have also just considered a Spartan locker in the rear.

With 35s and stock drivetrain/relatively stock arms, what parts do you carry with you? Basically what do you expect to break lol.

And last I guess, anyone with a similar setup and a low-pro roof rack (Prinsu) have a total height measurement? Slightly worried about getting it into my garage where it will have to be.

I'm also torn between V6 and V8, if you want to sell me on that haha. Thanks!

My parts were a pretty successful 35" setup. Standard travel Icon's no sway bars, Camburg uniball UCA (Similar enough to the Icon), 1.5" body lift. Removed mud flaps, BMC, SCS wheels w/ -10mm offset. slight trimming/beating of the front pinch weld/firewall and fenders. The amount of suspension lift you have has no effect on the rubbing so don't worry about that. I could tuck the rear 35" tires way up into the wheel wells, stock bump stops. The body lift helped with that.

The lower link is important for dragging over rocks, I only slightly bent 1 stock lower link in all my wheeling so far, but if you were to adjust the wheelbase I would want the upper links too, to adjust the pinion/driveshaft angle.

As for the solid bushing do you have a game plan to fix a broken diff on the trail or trailer it home? Factory ATRAC and my 35" tire setup worked well enough for me, kept me happy for a couple of years, but I was happy to have the solid bushing in there after I had my gear failure. If you wheel alone fixing it is not an option in which case I would run 33's or get a spacer in there.

For gearing its all personal preference as I've heard some guys say its mandatory but I got by just fine with stock gears, 35's, and the 05'+ V8. Just don't expect to use cruise control unless its flat or downhill. Passing will require a downshift at interstate speeds. If I had a dollar for every FJ guy I knew that has stock gears on 35's... I'd have a couple more bucks; and they have terrible aerodynamics + the V6.

I'd carry a cheap CV, a tie rod, a stock/cheap lower rear link if your's are stock. Any tools you can think of too.

With 35's and armor the V8 makes more sense to me.

 

[JuniorPigeon]

My parts were a pretty successful 35" setup. Standard travel Icon's no sway bars, Camburg uniball UCA (Similar enough to the Icon), 1.5" body lift. Removed mud flaps, BMC, SCS wheels w/ -10mm offset. slight trimming/beating of the front pinch weld/firewall and fenders. The amount of suspension lift you have has no effect on the rubbing so don't worry about that. I could tuck the rear 35" tires way up into the wheel wells, stock bump stops. The body lift helped with that.

The lower link is important for dragging over rocks, I only slightly bent 1 stock lower link in all my wheeling so far, but if you were to adjust the wheelbase I would want the upper links too, to adjust the pinion/driveshaft angle.

As for the solid bushing do you have a game plan to fix a broken diff on the trail or trailer it home? Factory ATRAC and my 35" tire setup worked well enough for me, kept me happy for a couple of years, but I was happy to have the solid bushing in there after I had my gear failure. If you wheel alone fixing it is not an option in which case I would run 33's or get a spacer in there.

For gearing its all personal preference as I've heard some guys say its mandatory but I got by just fine with stock gears, 35's, and the 05'+ V8. Just don't expect to use cruise control unless its flat or downhill. Passing will require a downshift at interstate speeds. If I had a dollar for every FJ guy I knew that has stock gears on 35's... I'd have a couple more bucks; and they have terrible aerodynamics + the V6.

I'd carry a cheap CV, a tie rod, a stock/cheap lower rear link if your's are stock. Any tools you can think of too.

With 35's and armor the V8 makes more sense to me.

Glad to know it can be done without dropping the bump stops. I'd like to squeeze as much travel with a good ride as I can out of a stock-ish arm setup.

And I kind of wondered about that. I thought the uppers would be needed too because of the pinion angle, but I really didn't see anyone bring them up.

If it's even remotely worth doing then it's something I'm gonna do. So a solid bushing would be no problem at all. Or even a Spartan locker for that matter.

I'll probably just rock the stock gearing until I decide it's too rough, although it might seem peppy enough considering I'm used to my 300k mile 3rd gen on 33s haha.

That's what I expected, basically the usuals for anything off road. I already keep a bunch of tools with me in whichever one I'm traveling with.

I would like to get hold of a V8, hopefully without an exhaust leak lol. But I'm not gonna make that a deal breaker. Thanks for the input!

 

[having fun]

Glad to know it can be done without dropping the bump stops. I'd like to squeeze as much travel with a good ride as I can out of a stock-ish arm setup.

And I kind of wondered about that. I thought the uppers would be needed too because of the pinion angle, but I really didn't see anyone bring them up.

If it's even remotely worth doing then it's something I'm gonna do. So a solid bushing would be no problem at all. Or even a Spartan locker for that matter.

I'll probably just rock the stock gearing until I decide it's too rough, although it might seem peppy enough considering I'm used to my 300k mile 3rd gen on 33s haha.

That's what I expected, basically the usuals for anything off road. I already keep a bunch of tools with me in whichever one I'm traveling with.

I would like to get hold of a V8, hopefully without an exhaust leak lol. But I'm not gonna make that a deal breaker. Thanks for the input!

Usually no one mentions the upper link arm as needing adjust for pinion angle in general. I did purchase a set of aftermarket fixed arms, dbl offset, but the company adds slight lenght to them to compensate the pinion angle for 3" lifts.
I asked them to add a little more due to my 4.5" lift in the rear.

 

[JuniorPigeon]

Usually no one mentions the upper link arm as needing adjust for pinion angle in general. I did purchase a set of aftermarket fixed arms, dbl offset, but the company adds slight lenght to them to compensate the pinion angle for 3" lifts.
I asked them to add a little more due to my 4.5" lift in the rear.

I noticed haha. Which leads me to my next question, what would be the recommended amount to extend each arm? I would assume extending the upper arms more than lowers, to get closer to factory angle?

 

[having fun]

I noticed haha. Which leads me to my next question, what would be the recommended amount to extend each arm? I would assume extending the upper arms more than lowers, to get closer to factory angle?

RENZ Fabrication

You can Google his site. He adds about .25" to get it back to stock on angle. I haven't done the math to know, I just needed dbl offset for my lift. And that's for NOT lengthening the lowers. I might turn my lowers in just a smidgen though. Honestly never felt a problem as far as pinion angle with my lift before the arms, other than the stock bushings couldn't handle the flex I have.
I can see the yoke farther slid out of the trans.

I figure in theary what you leghten bottoms should be at least equal in the tops, or more for pinion angle change.

 

[awhitney1]

Sorry for a newb question, but what solid bushing are you referring to exactly and lower link?

Thank you!

My parts were a pretty successful 35" setup. Standard travel Icon's no sway bars, Camburg uniball UCA (Similar enough to the Icon), 1.5" body lift. Removed mud flaps, BMC, SCS wheels w/ -10mm offset. slight trimming/beating of the front pinch weld/firewall and fenders. The amount of suspension lift you have has no effect on the rubbing so don't worry about that. I could tuck the rear 35" tires way up into the wheel wells, stock bump stops. The body lift helped with that.

The lower link is important for dragging over rocks, I only slightly bent 1 stock lower link in all my wheeling so far, but if you were to adjust the wheelbase I would want the upper links too, to adjust the pinion/driveshaft angle.

As for the solid bushing do you have a game plan to fix a broken diff on the trail or trailer it home? Factory ATRAC and my 35" tire setup worked well enough for me, kept me happy for a couple of years, but I was happy to have the solid bushing in there after I had my gear failure. If you wheel alone fixing it is not an option in which case I would run 33's or get a spacer in there.

For gearing its all personal preference as I've heard some guys say its mandatory but I got by just fine with stock gears, 35's, and the 05'+ V8. Just don't expect to use cruise control unless its flat or downhill. Passing will require a downshift at interstate speeds. If I had a dollar for every FJ guy I knew that has stock gears on 35's... I'd have a couple more bucks; and they have terrible aerodynamics + the V6.

I'd carry a cheap CV, a tie rod, a stock/cheap lower rear link if your's are stock. Any tools you can think of too.

With 35's and armor the V8 makes more sense to me.

 

[Inv4drZm]

Sorry for a newb question, but what solid bushing are you referring to exactly and lower link?

Thank you!

The spacer used to install and set the spacing for the pinion gear in the differential. Stock is a crush spacer that isn't as strong as a solid spacer allowing the gears to loose proper mesh and strip eachother during heavy offroading.

Aftermarket rear lower links/arms that are made of stronger tubing than stock.

 

[awhitney1]

Great, thanks for the info! I have the Total Chaos complete rear link kit to start off with. Will eventually do the regear to 4.88 since I have 35s, front/rear bumpers, full skids, roof rack with roof top tent. Heavy SOB lol.

Also, how can some break a rear diff?

The spacer used to install and set the spacing for the pinion gear in the differential. Stock is a crush spacer that isn't as strong as a solid spacer allowing the gears to loose proper mesh and strip eachother during heavy offroading.

Aftermarket rear lower links/arms that are made of stronger tubing than stock.

 

[Inv4drZm]

Great, thanks for the info! I have the Total Chaos complete rear link kit to start off with. Will eventually do the regear to 4.88 since I have 35s, front/rear bumpers, full skids, roof rack with roof top tent. Heavy SOB lol.

Also, how can some break a rear diff?

Rock crawling. Climbing up an obstacle when you lose momentum but keep giving it gas then start hopping up and down while your tires search for traction. One of the times it hops you hear a pop.

 

[awhitney1]

Last time I was kind of 'hopping', I broke a tie rod and that was no fun.

Rock crawling. Climbing up an obstacle when you lose momentum but keep giving it gas then start hopping up and down while your tires search for traction. One of the times it hops you hear a pop.

 

[NinjaOne]

Those of you running 35s with no body lift; did you do anything to fix rub on the inner fender? Specifically under the battery tray? I barely kiss at full bump.

Adjust bump or did you massage it to make it work?

 

[mysticz]

What kind of average gas mileage and RPM's at 65-70mph with 35's with stock gearing? :thanks:

 

[Inv4drZm]

What kind of average gas mileage and RPM's at 65-70mph with 35's with stock gearing? :thanks:

I think I got 16-17mpg driving 70mph. Usually around 14mpg though daily traffic. RPMs will be lower than stock.

 

[Dirtrider216]

Wondering if I would be able to clear 315/70/17 with my current Bilsteins adjusted up higher and a 1 inch body lift if I’m willing to trim the bumper and body mount and hammer the pinch weld?

 

[Inv4drZm]

Wondering if I would be able to clear 315/70/17 with my current Bilsteins adjusted up higher and a 1 inch body lift if I’m willing to trim the bumper and body mount and hammer the pinch weld?

You could do it just as easily without adjusting the Bilsteins.

Depending on wheel offset and alignment, yes, it should be relatively easy.

 

[Dirtrider216]

You could do it just as easily without adjusting the Bilsteins.

Depending on wheel offset and alignment, yes, it should be relatively easy.

So just the 1” bl with the right wheel offset and alignment would clear 315s is what your saying?