**35's on a 4th Gen - The Fitment Guide**

[montijo505]

Bumping this thread since I just made the step up, 315/70-17 on 17x9 -38. Will fill out specs as soon as I get rubbing sorted!



My question is how much/which BMC are people using? I have approx. 3" lift and a 1" body lift, caster corrected, with the typical cut bumper/flat pinch weld/BMC. Rub free with the old 295s but now I'm hitting the body mount and front bumper. I'll cut whatever I need off the bumper but I want to know what people are doing with the body mount. My OCD wants to be rub free again so I'm hoping that's an option.

You can always relocate it, kits aren't too bad and the welding shouldn't be too expensive.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

 

[JuniorPigeon]

You can always relocate it, kits aren't too bad and the welding shouldn't be too expensive.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

I've thought about that, and that's honestly what I'll probably end up doing. Just trying to see what people have done with the existing mount in the meantime.

 

[StevenP]

I just bought a 4th gen because I’m in the process of stuffing 37s under my 1st gen tacoma, wanted something I can daily and tow a little with... why did I have to find this thread! Ordering up a nice dobinsons lt set up, and Roger Brown (4crawler) is only about 30 minutes from me so I can go snag a body lift whenever.. I guess I’ll have to toss my 37’s on once I have everything installed, you know, just to see what’s up :shrug:

 

[Drift Monkey]

Tire Size: 35x12.50R17
Tire Make/Model: Yokohama Geolandar M/T G003
Wheels: 17x7.5 +15 offset + 1.25" Spidertrax spacers
Bodylift: No
Approx. Suspension lift setting over stock: 3" Dobinsons extended front/long travel rear
Aftermarket UCA's: SPC
Caster correction: LCA full caster forward with Taco Tabs, SPC UCAs at setting G
Bumpers: front True North Fab hybrid - rear - tube bumper/carrier (soon)
Trimming: Already had a BMC for 295s, pinch weld was beat up front even though I didn't really need it back then. Rear mudguards trimmed but still hits the cover - will be trimming when I do the rear bumper.
Bumpstop drop? Durobumps F/R, Rear 2" bumpstop extensions for LT
Notes: Clears the BMC pretty easily but I think I get a little frame rub on full lock. Not sure I would do anything different - need to look into wheel offsets a bit more. Getting the proper alignment is the most crucial to get the front tires as fr forward as they can possibly be - maxing the LCA cam bolts to rear outboard and front inboard + SPC setting G gives you as most as you can get. No links on her yet, will probably try 3/16" extended soon.

 

[Arjfaye]

Here’s mine, it rubs on JBA UCA from lock to lock and little flex, im wondering if SPC will not rub does anyone know? My wheel specs 315 70 17/ 17x9 -12 4.5 BS. I can return my JBA and get a full refund and buy SPC instead.

 

[momo.75]

Here’s mine, it rubs on JBA UCA from lock to lock and little flex, im wondering if SPC will not rub does anyone know? My wheel specs 315 70 17/ 17x9 -12 4.5 BS. I can return my JBA and get a full refund and buy SPC instead.

Looks good. You running a body lift?

 

[Arjfaye]

Looks good. You running a body lift?

Thanks! Yes 1 inch from toytec.

 

[BlairB]

Curious to see if anyone starts running the Kenda 35x10.5". I have always liked pizza cutters so this is a really interesting option to me.

I am curious if I would be able to run a set of those without limiting travel (running Total Chaos +2 and enjoying the full travel), I just don't want to be the guinea pig to figure it out!

 

[04rnr]

Tire Size: 35x12.50R17
Tire Make/Model: Yokohama Geolandar M/T G003
Wheels: 17x7.5 +15 offset + 1.25" Spidertrax spacers
Bodylift: No
Approx. Suspension lift setting over stock: 3" Dobinsons extended front/long travel rear
Aftermarket UCA's: SPC
Caster correction: LCA full caster forward with Taco Tabs, SPC UCAs at setting G
Bumpers: front True North Fab hybrid - rear - tube bumper/carrier (soon)
Trimming: Already had a BMC for 295s, pinch weld was beat up front even though I didn't really need it back then. Rear mudguards trimmed but still hits the cover - will be trimming when I do the rear bumper.
Bumpstop drop? Durobumps F/R, Rear 2" bumpstop extensions for LT
Notes: Clears the BMC pretty easily but I think I get a little frame rub on full lock. Not sure I would do anything different - need to look into wheel offsets a bit more. Getting the proper alignment is the most crucial to get the front tires as fr forward as they can possibly be - maxing the LCA cam bolts to rear outboard and front inboard + SPC setting G gives you as most as you can get. No links on her yet, will probably try 3/16" extended soon.

SWEET rig, got any pictures of it flesed out?

 

[Drift Monkey]

SWEET rig, got any pictures of it flesed out?

As it just so happens, I do!

 

[JuniorPigeon]

Just realized I never updated this since I got (almost) everything squared away.

Tire Size: 315/70-17.
Tire Make/Model: Goodyear Wrangler DuraTrac.
Wheels: 17x9 -38.
Body lift: Yes, 1".
Approx. Suspension lift setting over stock: ~3".
Aftermarket UCA's: Yes, SPC.
Caster correction: Yes, not sure of amount though.
Bumpers: C4 front, custom rear.
Trimming: I still need to trim more, but front bumper and fender are cut, pinch weld flattened, and liners pushed away.
Bump stop drop? Yes, 2".
Notes: This still rubs at full lock in reverse but only on the plastics, I did an NTK body mount relocation just to free up that whole area. I do not know with compression yet what it will do. Rear links are still stock so we'll see if that becomes an issue. Gears are also still stock but I think the wheel/tire combo is light enough to be okay.

 

[PickleRiiiick]

I have gone through every single post here.. and have absorbed so much information thank you for the great idea and everyone's input this helps so many people its incredible.

Here is an overview of this forum... 2020 update!

What is needed to lift your 4th gen 4runner if you plan on running 35s! Please add or correct any info here and i will update it. Yes some of these are my personal preference but can use common sense to pick and choose your setup.

Tire Size: 315/70/17
Tire Make/Model: Havent made a decision here yet
Wheels: Method 305 Matte Black 17x8.5 ( probably have to use 1.25 wheel spacers )
Bodylift: 1 inch BL ( to help with clearance )
Suspension: Radflo 2.5 front Coilovers w/ 650lb coils & extended travel, 2.5 rear extended with the OME 895 rear springs.
Aftermarket UCA's: Total Chaos Uniball
Caster correction: Minimum 4* and maximum 6.1*
Bumpers/Armor/Accessories: Will be doing a hybrid style front bumper with a winch, sliders w/ kickout, rear swing out, full skids, and RTT, down the road do a dometic fridge and camp/kitchen with a drawer sliding system
Trimming: Mandatory body mount chop, pinch weld hammered in, and plastics trimmed on fenders/bumpers
Bumpstops Extensions: Rule of thumb is have extensions as big as your lift.. so 3" lift.. 3" bumpstop extension. Keep in mind these might change if you have aftermarket bumpstops. Use a tape measure!

Other things that come to mind that you may be interested in modifying..

-LT links for the rear ( helps move rear axle back 1" from the door/body area)
-solid spacer for the rear diff instead of crush spacer (Nitro Toyota 8″ Solid Pinion Spacer)
-If LT rear make sure to get extended brake lines
-Spindle gusset swaybar edition for better strength
-Sway bar delete front and rear
-4.88 Gearing for the V8 down the road if stock ones i dont like
-While we all know that 35s put more stress on all the parts.. Would be a good idea to rebuild the LCAs aswell, with Poly bushings and Moog greasable lower ball joints, throw some BAMF skids on there aswell and got a solid setup, even replacing the tie rod ends is not a bad idea ( keep the stock parts as a trail replacement )


This was an overview of most posts in these forums and to my conclusion a great place to start your research for lifting your T4R.

This is also kudos to everyone who posted in here, much appreciated and this should help many more people... thank you everyone and lets go places! See ya on the trails.

So I can finally confidently add to this, I have now been running 35s for about 5000 miles. Here’s an update.

Tire Size: 315/70/17
Tire Make/Model: Goodyear Duratracs
Wheels: Stock ( had to use 1.25 wheel spacers up front )
Bodylift: 1 inch BL from toytec
Suspension: Radflo 2.5 front Coilovers w/ 650lb coils & extended travel, 2.5 rear extended with the OME 895 rear springs.
Aftermarket UCA's: Total Chaos Uniball
Caster correction: Passenger was 4.3 and driver 4.6
Bumpers/Armor/Accessories: Built my own front bumper, not sure on weight but not bad installed it by myself after painting. Building sliders this upcoming week after my other project is finished.
Trimming: Mandatory body mount chop, pinch weld hammered in, and plastics trimmed on fenders/bumpers.

Bumpstops Extensions: I have not gotten these.. and I really don’t have much rubbing do have a 1” BL


This setup has been amazing so far, night and day difference. Really love having the 2.5s and the TC UCAs for the extra durability when romping. I also did have damaged lower control arm bushings, so I decided to completely freshen up the front end. Ordered new LCAs & BJs both sides , both inner/outer tie rods, new CV axles both sides too for the hell of it (lifetime warranty if breaks-and 35s put a lot of wear on these so decided as a preventative).

The 1” BL I would believe is also mandatory to run 35s, it’s not really too tall at all( I mean it is.. but not like 6” lift tall, overall about 3-4” lift and is perfect )

Let’s talk about rubbing; I’ve cycled the suspension fully off-road to find all it’s rubbing spots.. mostly only at full lock (95% to lock out) would start to rub on the body mount chop. This could be fixed by using SRQs or relentless fab body mount chop plates, they are rounded/bent so there is maximum clearance without losing the structure integrity. I honestly probably won’t re do my BMCs (just used flat plate, bent a bit over with a hammer) because it’s not that big of a deal I just don’t go full lock which is better for my steering system anyways.

I think I’d rather spend money on a locker than any other rear LT links, and gearing, then LT rear. IMO.


What everyone’s really wants to know how many MPG does this 4.7L get lifted with 35s w/ stock gearing... well it’s poop to be honest.. 10-12 MPG sometimes 8 if towing some heavy things. Best I’ve seen is 13 on the highway at like 75.

But it gets a hundred smiles per gallon!!

 

[y=mx+b]

So I can finally confidently add to this, I have now been running 35s for about 5000 miles. Here’s an update.

Tire Size: 315/70/17
Tire Make/Model: Goodyear Duratracs
Wheels: Stock ( had to use 1.25 wheel spacers up front )
Bodylift: 1 inch BL from toytec
Suspension: Radflo 2.5 front Coilovers w/ 650lb coils & extended travel, 2.5 rear extended with the OME 895 rear springs.
Aftermarket UCA's: Total Chaos Uniball
Caster correction: Passenger was 4.3 and driver 4.6
Bumpers/Armor/Accessories: Built my own front bumper, not sure on weight but not bad installed it by myself after painting. Building sliders this upcoming week after my other project is finished.
Trimming: Mandatory body mount chop, pinch weld hammered in, and plastics trimmed on fenders/bumpers.

Bumpstops Extensions: I have not gotten these.. and I really don’t have much rubbing do have a 1” BL


This setup has been amazing so far, night and day difference. Really love having the 2.5s and the TC UCAs for the extra durability when romping. I also did have damaged lower control arm bushings, so I decided to completely freshen up the front end. Ordered new LCAs & BJs both sides , both inner/outer tie rods, new CV axles both sides too for the hell of it (lifetime warranty if breaks-and 35s put a lot of wear on these so decided as a preventative).

The 1” BL I would believe is also mandatory to run 35s, it’s not really too tall at all( I mean it is.. but not like 6” lift tall, overall about 3-4” lift and is perfect )

Let’s talk about rubbing; I’ve cycled the suspension fully off-road to find all it’s rubbing spots.. mostly only at full lock (95% to lock out) would start to rub on the body mount chop. This could be fixed by using SRQs or relentless fab body mount chop plates, they are rounded/bent so there is maximum clearance without losing the structure integrity. I honestly probably won’t re do my BMCs (just used flat plate, bent a bit over with a hammer) because it’s not that big of a deal I just don’t go full lock which is better for my steering system anyways.

I think I’d rather spend money on a locker than any other rear LT links, and gearing, then LT rear. IMO.


What everyone’s really wants to know how many MPG does this 4.7L get lifted with 35s w/ stock gearing... well it’s poop to be honest.. 10-12 MPG sometimes 8 if towing some heavy things. Best I’ve seen is 13 on the highway at like 75.

But it gets a hundred smiles per gallon!! ����������

Looking good man! Don't see a lot of 35s on stock 4th gen wheels, so nice to see it turned out well with the +30 offset and spacers!

Images looks like they didn't embed properly, the forum is really weird about that. Should be able to edit your post and paste in the text below for them to show up in the post. For reference, I went to the photobucket link for the image and clicked the share button in the top left. A window pops up with the direct link to copy, and that was the one that I wrapped in the tags.
[HTML][IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/i/codyjhelton/3A0BFE65_10F6_4930_A154_9F097A5B249D.jpeg

[/HTML]

 

[PickleRiiiick]

Looking good man! Don't see a lot of 35s on stock 4th gen wheels, so nice to see it turned out well with the +30 offset and spacers!

Images looks like they didn't embed properly, the forum is really weird about that. Should be able to edit your post and paste in the text below for them to show up in the post. For reference, I went to the photobucket link for the image and clicked the share button in the top left. A window pops up with the direct link to copy, and that was the one that I wrapped in the tags.
[HTML][IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/i/codyjhelton/3A0BFE65_10F6_4930_A154_9F097A5B249D.jpeg

[/HTML]

Thanks man I appreciate it! I ended up using Imgur instead and worked perfectly... photobucket has always been slackin tbh.

Yeah stockers and spacers seem to work just fine to be honest with 35s .. I really want the black trd pro wheels, but may just paint the stocks black first to see if i like it.

 

[Drift Monkey]

The 1” BL I would believe is also mandatory to run 35s, it’s not really too tall at all( I mean it is.. but not like 6” lift tall, overall about 3-4” lift and is perfect )

I beg to differ lol.

 

[Jayson44]

I beg to differ lol.

as do I. it gives more clearance, but I'm just fine w/out it.

J.

 

[PickleRiiiick]

I beg to differ lol.

as do I. it gives more clearance, but I'm just fine w/out it.

J.

Yeah it CAN be done.. but if you’re actually wheeling and don’t wanna stuff your wheel wells fully flexed out.. it’s a darn good recommendation. And not very expensive comparatively either. I wouldn’t go over 1” though.

Plusss it looks a bit better IMO

 

[xtremewlr]

Yeah it CAN be done.. but if you’re actually wheeling and don’t wanna stuff your wheel wells fully flexed out.. it’s a darn good recommendation. And not very expensive comparatively either. I wouldn’t go over 1” though.

Plusss it looks a bit better IMO

Also helps when you finally do that FJ tcase swap too. :gossip:

 

[PickleRiiiick]

Also helps when you finally do that FJ tcase swap too. :gossip:

Awww man now you’re opening a whole other can of worms that I cannot resist haha

 

[Jayson44]

but if you’re actually wheeling...

:yo:

no problems here. proper bumpstop extensions make this work. I'm a LCG kind of guy, so I want it a low as possible.

seems to be more of a preference thing. but I also notice a lot of variation from one t4r to the next. some people need massive BMCs to even accomplish 33s while others need to just trim the plastic a bit. my rear tires rubbed the front of the wheel well at full stuff and a buddy of mine has zero issues and is running almost the same setup.

so yeah, maybe a BL is needed for your rig, but it's not for everyone.

J.