WHAT TO LOOK FOR SUMMARY: Want to know more about these? Read the thread.
The OP is welcome to add/modify the following to add to the number 2 post of this thread.
CLUTCH PEDAL SQUEAK/FRICTION:
Replacing or retrofitting the clutch-pedal return spring mechanism, which is a well known problem area in 4Runners, Tacomas, and Tundras.
Red flags:
- Squeaking
- Sticking
- Cruise Control not working
While the three OEM hard-plastic fragile clutch-pedal return torsion spring Q-P-Q bushings last a few years, it is extremely common for the P bushing to be destroyed without the owner being aware of the fact, other than, perhaps, an internal cabin squeak upon pressing the clutch pedal. Often the white hard-plastic fragile Q bushings subsequently fail, causing the torsion spring to stick, resulting in a "stuck pedal". Even without the stuck pedal symptoms, the squeaks indicate metal-on-metal contact, which will destroy the clutch pedal P mounting tab due to the inexorable grinding of metal on metal at the missing P bushing site, eventually resulting in friction that prevents the clutch pedal from rising to its full height (sometimes impacting the operation of the cruise-control switch).
Fixes/ How to avoid:
One $150 replacement strategy is to replace the $100 clutch pedal (because of the P-bushing area wear will destroy any new P bushing!), the $25 torsion spring, and the $25 Q-P-Q bushings with new but still fragile plastic OEM material. The three issues with this strategy are:
- It's more work than some of the other strategies
- It costs more money than all the other strategies
- You still end up with a lousy set of hard brittle plastic bushings
Another replacement strategy is to machine brass or nylon bushings out of commonly available hardware store parts (nylon material working best in the P-bushing site because it forms to the eaten-away metal). Sometimes both the worn clutch pedal and the eroded double-coil torsion spring can be re-used but both will be worn and will eventually cause a problem depending on the amount of wear.
A third replacement strategy, which is the cheapest and easiest of all, and which many people do, is to pry out the old double-coil torsion spring, and to replace it with an approximately 5-1/2 inch long 3-inch long arm, 1 inch short arm, and 1-1/2 inch dime-sized coil extension (tension) spring. Amazingly, both the top tab and bottom spring holder already exist, unused, but seemingly just waiting for this mod, handed to us as a gift from Toyota engineers. Many factory clutch-pedal-return and brake-pedal-return springs have been tried but most touch at two points, hence the specific sizes above:
- Too short an arm allows the pedal P-tab to contact the coils
- Too fat the coils allows the coils to contact the pedal bracket
A fourth replacement strategy, which, surprisingly, does work, especially if cruise control isn't important to you, is to simply pry out the old torsion spring, and simply replace it with absolutely nothing. Amazingly, 99% of the clutch pedal return force is caused by the pressure plate acting backward on the slave and master cylinder hydraulics. The top-most last quarter inch of pedal travel may feel a little floppy, and the cruise control contact may be flaky, but it can be adjusted to compensate.
FRONT SWAYBAR BUSHING SIZES:
Buying the proper sized front swaybar buna-to-polyurethane bushing kits:
While the front swaybar and endlink OEM buna rubber bushings last quite some time, aftermarket polyurethane bushings from the likes of Prothane, Energy Suspension, Daystar, etc., are often a favorite due to the stiffer, supposedly more durable polyurethane material.
However, for many years, the Prothane & Energy Suspension kits have had the wrong sizes (Daystar was always correct), due to confusion the two manufacturers had over the diameter of the swaybar and endlinks. The recommendation, for years, was to buy multiple kits, and to mix and match the properly sized fittings, but a less wasteful method is to
simply purchase the correct kit, which we were able to get the manufacturers to supply.
Red flags:
You purchase a kit whose bushings don't fit snugly on the end links or, whose bushing fits too snugly on the swaybar.
Fixes/ How to avoid:
While the record shows that very many people "force fit" the wrong sized bushings, the simplest and most economical and best method is to simply purchase the kits recommended in the mtbtim and foo threads linked to above.
