white_n_slow
Senior Member
I personally used OEM and that's what I would recommend. The lower ball joint is a high-stakes mission critical part (i.e. if it breaks, you might die), so I didn't want to skimp.
3rd gen Lift opinion
- Thread starter abrosk927
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awthorn
New member
I second [MENTION=84681]white_n_slow[/MENTION] , use OEM LBJS, took us all of 15 minutes per side to add new ones when we did my lift. I got them for a good price from 1sttoyotaparts.com the site seems sketchy compared to what you are probably use to but they were awesome; I even called them and spoke with some of the guys. I will put it this way, your Toyota is as solid as it is and has ran as long as it has because of those OEM parts; keep it that way and it will continue to give you the life you expect. :behindsofa:
Id rather have somebody experienced help me out here in PA
Whats SS, not really sure what to do with the panhard yet...i got a drop bracket so should i atleast see how that works?
afg10000
New member
The drop bracket will work fine. Installing everything is quite easy provided you have decent spring compressors and a welder. I'd be very careful if you're going to use harbor freight compressors, they seemed quite iffy even with the stock springs. If you happen to know someone that works at a BMW dealership, see if you can borrow these ones.
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Snowy21
New member
You have to weld the PH drop bracket on or else it won't hold up to any real use. And even with it welded and bolted you may start to rip the stock mount anyway from the extra force you are putting on the thin metal that the stock mount is made of. I want to say [MENTION=47945]brian2sun[/MENTION] experienced his tearing from hard wheeling. I suppose you could plate the mount but then again how much work are you willing to put into it?
Justin727
New member
I still do. But I attribute it to tie rod ends which I have not replaced yet. I'm coming up on needing to do the lower ball joints as well. One thing I love about toyota is their front ends are tight. Mine's starting to show its age now.
I would think that the all pro, for the price are better than any other uca out there. Icon and TC are great but they are @250 more. For 499 you can get a tig welded chromoly unibal vs tubular forged steel with an oe style ball.
My local off road shop, the guy i work with and I looked up the specs on the TC and the all pro and they are identical with the exception of the uniball. He looked at the uniballs that both use and between the two there is a 15 dollar difference in the uniball. essentially what he told me, the one that TC uses is the same that pre runner race trucks will use, the all pro is the ones that the prerunner weekend warriors will use. Both are great products
my .02
white_n_slow
Senior Member
265/75r16 = slightly bigger than stock, close to stock gearing/performance
285/75r16 = close to 33" tires. May require wheel spacers with stock wheels. The truck might feel a little pokey, but still decent with stock gearing.
255/85r16 = Skinny 33" tires. No spacers required and possibly slightly better gas mileage than the 285's. A little hard to find tires in this size though.
I currently have 265's…I'd really like to run 33's, would they be able to still be installed without wheel spaces then i can see if i need them?
white_n_slow
Senior Member
the 255/85's are 33" tires and definitely will not require wheel spacers.
If you install 285's and they rub on the upper control arm pretty bad, you will not want to drive far (or at all) without the wheel spacers. So your best bet would probably be to buy the wheel spacers, test fit the tires, and if it turns out they fit fine, just return the spacers. If you do a test fit and don't have the wheel spacers on hand, you may end up having an un-driveable vehicle while you shop for spacers.
Also FYI, the spacers would only be necessary up front. Most people prefer to do front and rear so the axle width matches.
steezemcqueen
Moderator
.058" wall is ridiclously thin. The stock one is like .120 wall or thicker. With that bar, you still need misalignment spacers too so it will fit in the factory location with the same hardware.
Its a good find but not something i would run even on the street in my truck.
Millerad1651
New member
I haven't looked into them really...didn't even notice the measurements. We did notice we would have to upgrade the joints and bushings...by the time everything is upgraded, it's probably nt worth it.
aeroneer1
New member
Chiming in a bit late, but I ran the Toytec ultimate (about 2.5" up front, 3" in back, and diff drop) without panhard drop or extended brake line for a year with no problems. CVS still haven't shown any leaking either.
If you're going more than 3" in the back, I would highly recommend Toytec's adjustable panhard.
You can also run 33" (285/75/16) easy with 2.5-3" in front, just beat the pinch weld back a little bit. But you can't with stock wheels, unless you get wheel spacers. 31" (265/75) are the biggest you can go with stock wheels.
Something to consider is when you lift your truck the wheels get more inset, and wheel spacers or wheels with more offset help to get back to the original wheel body width.
So with the 1.25" wheel spacers, you're saying i could fit 33" tires on stock wheels?
Where did you get your wheels, and do they have more offset?
Where would you recommend that i look for aftermarket wheels?
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