3RZ Runners Only

[Kanoe]

No, no. The new added filter would be ahead (fuel flow) as in before the original filter. The thought behind it is that it would pre-filter the gas. Therefore allowing the expensive (and difficult to change) Toyota filter to last longer.

And I know in North America this is not needed, a waste of time. But I am thinking about Latin countries, small towns, filling up from a barrel type of situation.

Just wondering if anyone has come across this before.

 

[JZiggy]

No, no. The new added filter would be ahead (fuel flow) as in before the original filter. The thought behind it is that it would pre-filter the gas. Therefore allowing the expensive (and difficult to change) Toyota filter to last longer.

And I know in North America this is not needed, a waste of time. But I am thinking about Latin countries, small towns, filling up from a barrel type of situation.

Just wondering if anyone has come across this before.

Maybe you can borrow some fuel lines and other parts from a 3.4L truck that has the filter on the frame rail. Then you can use that one as the "pre-filter".

 

[bwarren]

No, no. The new added filter would be ahead (fuel flow) as in before the original filter. The thought behind it is that it would pre-filter the gas. Therefore allowing the expensive (and difficult to change) Toyota filter to last longer.

And I know in North America this is not needed, a waste of time. But I am thinking about Latin countries, small towns, filling up from a barrel type of situation.

Just wondering if anyone has come across this before.

Ok, my bad, that makes more sense now. It's been a few years since I did mine. It was hard enough to access that I ended up moving it the wheel well in case I need to change it again. There is a good write up here: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diy-2-4l-2-7l-fuel-filter-relocation-mod.349406/

Also, I get what you mean about dirty gas in South America. I lived in Bolivia for a year and I used a portable funnel filter before adding gas to my little 150cc dirt-bike. I was in the middle of nowhere and a clogged fuel filter would mean a long walk through the jungle. I used something like this, it would be a cheap easy solution. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...MI3uOS5_GY3AIVl6DsCh3U3gaMEAQYCCABEgIRjfD_BwE

 

[Red October]

Lets talk about gears for the 3RZ, and tire size, load out, etc...

Im running factory 5 speed manual and 4.56 gearing, tube bumpers (to hopefully save a little weight), and 285's on stock alloy wheels.

I put my RTT on the rack for the first time recently, and with a load of gear in the truck I'm pretty underwhelmed. I feel like I'm pushing the truck really hard to make it perform adequately. Without a load this combo is totally fine, but I usually go loaded.

What gears, tires, load combos are you guys running with the venerable 3RZ?

 

[JZiggy]

Lets talk about gears for the 3RZ, and tire size, load out, etc...

Im running factory 4.56 gearing, tube bumpers (to hopefully save a little weight), and 285's on stock alloy wheels.

I put my RTT on the rack for the first time recently, and with a load of gear in the truck I'm pretty underwhelmed. I feel like I'm pushing the truck really hard to make it perform adequately. Without a load this combo is totally fine, but I usually go loaded.

What gears, tires, load combos are you guys running with the venerable 3RZ?

What elevation are you operating at?

 

[rkntoy]

Underwhelmed at what speeds?

I run 5.29 gears and 37s. I found that having a wind deflector when I threw the tent on helped quite a bit. I carry a bunch of weight.

 

[Red October]

What elevation are you operating at?

Im in Salt Lake City, UT so around town its about 4300 ft. In the mountains around I can get over 7000 ft very quickly.

Underwhelmed at what speeds?

I run 5.29 gears and 37s. I found that having a wind deflector when I threw the tent on helped quite a bit. I carry a bunch of weight.

The truck is my daily driver, so mostly its just slow around town, stop and go. Once I get to a cruising speed it does fine. Hills and starts are the problem I think. I just feel like I'm having to push it harder than I want to.

 

[JZiggy]

Im in SLC, UT so around town its about 4300 ft. In the mountains around I can get over 7000 ft very quickly.



The truck is my daily driver, so mostly its just slow around town, stop and go. Once I get to a cruising speed it does fine. Hills and starts are the problem I think. I just feel like I'm having to push it harder than I want to.

The elevation steals power, I felt that big time when I drove my 3RZ through Utah and Wyoming (heavily loaded, 4.10's on 265 tires).

The 3RZ loves to wind up. It's a DOHC for that purpose. As long as your temps are in control you can push it at 4500rpm all day.

If you want, you could try driving it as hard as you want for the duration of an oil change and then send your oil in for a $20 analysis to see if your wear metals are still behaving properly.

 

[rkntoy]

I am at 3600.

With 33s and 4.56 gears I would probably just flog it a bit more when you have the weight. I ran 4.30 gears and my 37s for a while and it did take a little more clutch and upped shift points when I loaded up.

 

[jgue467]

I am at 3600.

That yields a 9.9% HP drop. None of that can be regained (except of course via a turbo or SC). Luck and enjoy. :cowboy:

 

[Red October]

So here's another question. If you were wanting to go up from 33's to 35's would 5.29's be too much gear?

4.56 to 4.88 seems like too small of a jump to be worth the money

 

[Red October]

The elevation steals power, I felt that big time when I drove my 3RZ through Utah and Wyoming (heavily loaded, 4.10's on 265 tires).

The 3RZ loves to wind up. It's a DOHC for that purpose. As long as your temps are in control you can push it at 4500rpm all day.

If you want, you could try driving it as hard as you want for the duration of an oil change and then send your oil in for a $20 analysis to see if your wear metals are still behaving properly.

I am at 3600.

With 33s and 4.56 gears I would probably just flog it a bit more when you have the weight. I ran 4.30 gears and my 37s for a while and it did take a little more clutch and upped shift points when I loaded up.

That yields a 9.9% HP drop. None of that can be regained (except of course via a turbo or SC). Luck and enjoy. :cowboy:

Thanks for the feedback fellas, I do appreciate it. Maybe I'm just worried about pushing it too hard since I'm on engine #3, and I would like for this one to last a while, lol.

 

[Kanoe]

Thanks for the feedback fellas, I do appreciate it. Maybe I'm just worried about pushing it too hard since I'm on engine #3, and I would like for this one to last a while, lol.

What happened to engines 1 and 2? If you don't mind to share...

 

[Red October]

What happened to engines 1 and 2? If you don't mind to share...

Sure, I Bought the truck with burnt valves and 200K on the clock. Decided to have the whole thing built. Made the mistake of being lazy and having a shop do the work instead of doing it right myself. Long story short they didn't do a great job and used really cheap parts.

Engine #1 (on my watch) only made it to 25K miles before collapsing a piston skirt and blowing a head-gasket.

Engine #2 was a Chinese version, and it still runs very well, but leaks pretty good. Just needs some gasket love.

#3 I built recently from the original block. I did all the work myself this time, so hopefully she lasts, and if not I wont have anyone to blame but me, lol.

Edit; Maybe that's actually 4 engines, dang.

 

[rkntoy]

That yields a 9.9% HP drop. None of that can be regained (except of course via a turbo or SC). Luck and enjoy. :cowboy:

Enjoy = yes. Not sure luck has to do with it.

But I gain about 1% in Death Valley

 

[Scramble]

Factory 4.56 - I felt a loss of power going to 33's & a front plate bumper. I just switch gears at a higher rpm now. Going up hill sucks more now. I have sliders & a rear plate bumper w/swingout going on soon so I know that's going to suck. I'l be adding a high-boost TRD S/C after that & hopefully I'll be back to normal.

 

[HighDesert4Banger]

Whassup, 4bangers?

Man, 4 engines! I'm glad you told that story cause I just bit a pretty big bullet and got my valve job finished up at Toyota Santa Fe. 1 year unlimited mile warrantee and the cyl head looks fricken new. I got to talk to the head machinist when they were handing the car back and he says the engine was taken care of by the original owner; no gunk/carbon deposits at 150k, and they had to send out the head for extra machining as the valve seat was damaged.

When they were diagnosing, they found the original head gasket was fine, just one burnt exhaust valve in cyl 1. I think they replaced all. Anyway, pretty cool, about 2/3 price of the supercharger that would have blown up the engine, but hills are better, mpg is better, I shift at 3500 when dding around and my fricken headers are finally going on this Thurs.

Even better was they noticed a recall for my 98 and I got new rear coils and some other suspension parts which changed my ride more than anything. Feels absolutely new in back. The new shocks i swapped in for the originals at 145k did nothing compared to new coils and whatever else they did. Man. Killer. And free

I'm at 7000ft altitude, which explains a lot. Before this she was in Aspen all her life. Stock 4.10 gearing on 265s. Gearing blows. Good to be back:drummer:
[MENTION=7105]Scramble[/MENTION]-can you link to the SC you're looking at?

 

[Scramble]

This is the kit I bought.

https://www.lceperformance.com/2RZ-2-4L-3RZ-2-7L-High-Boost-Supercharger-Kit-1995-p/7015190.htm

 

[riverrat44]

Just found this thread while researching shock options.

I'm the 3rd owner of a 2000 5spd w/ the 3RZ engine. Had an 88 1st gen w/ 22RE and wanted the closest thing to that with 4 doors. Bought the 2000 runner in 2008 with 90k on it. Currently at 159k, barely getting broken in. 2000 was the last year of the 3RZ and also last year for the 5 speed. My rig came with AC, power locks and windows, and power moon roof, cruise, rear seat heat. Seems pretty plush to me..

I often say this rig was the best $8700 I ever spent. Super capable and reliable. I'm not a big wheeler, so mods are minimal - I replaced the stock front seats with the more supportive and adjustable ones out of an SR5. I also replaced the stock cast iron exhaust manifold with the later stainless version from a 2002 3RZ out of a Tacoma. Lastly, I took off the running boards and put on the factory plastic front mudflaps.

With 235/75/15 tires I find it has acceptable power, better than my 22RE 1st gen, which of course isn't saying a lot..

Currently trying to cure an intermittent front end shake (steering wheel). I probably need new shocks, and maybe new lower ball joints.

 

[Slobo]

Just found this thread while researching shock options.

I'm the 3rd owner of a 2000 5spd w/ the 3RZ engine. Had an 88 1st gen w/ 22RE and wanted the closest thing to that with 4 doors. Bought the 2000 runner in 2008 with 90k on it. Currently at 159k, barely getting broken in. 2000 was the last year of the 3RZ and also last year for the 5 speed. My rig came with AC, power locks and windows, and power moon roof, cruise, rear seat heat. Seems pretty plush to me..

I often say this rig was the best $8700 I ever spent. Super capable and reliable. I'm not a big wheeler, so mods are minimal - I replaced the stock front seats with the more supportive and adjustable ones out of an SR5. I also replaced the stock cast iron exhaust manifold with the later stainless version from a 2002 3RZ out of a Tacoma. Lastly, I took off the running boards and put on the factory plastic front mudflaps.

With 235/75/15 tires I find it has acceptable power, better than my 22RE 1st gen, which of course isn't saying a lot..

Currently trying to cure an intermittent front end shake (steering wheel). I probably need new shocks, and maybe new lower ball joints.

I have same steering issue, sometimes I get a strange clunk/wiggle, also need shocks.