4 Wheel Parts: No Installs Of Toytec Spacers On T4R's w/ KDSS??????

What about just level, no lift...

Is it possible to just level a 4R TE KDSS without lifting the rear? I'd like to level the vehicle while remaining as close to the factory engineering as possible. Seems as if 3/4 to 1" would do the trick.
Any idea if this will work;
Front Top Plate Spacer Kit - Toytec Lifts: Toyota Lift Kits: FJ Cruiser Lift Kits, Tacoma Lift Kits, Tundra Lift Kits, 4 Runner Lift Kits, Sequoia Lift Kits, Toyota Truck Lift Kits
Will I encounter the same problems as previously discussed in this thread?
 
Is it possible to just level a 4R TE KDSS without lifting the rear? I'd like to level the vehicle while remaining as close to the factory engineering as possible. Seems as if 3/4 to 1" would do the trick.
Any idea if this will work;
Front Top Plate Spacer Kit - Toytec Lifts: Toyota Lift Kits: FJ Cruiser Lift Kits, Tacoma Lift Kits, Tundra Lift Kits, 4 Runner Lift Kits, Sequoia Lift Kits, Toyota Truck Lift Kits
Will I encounter the same problems as previously discussed in this thread?

It's the lifting/leveling of the front that involves the KDSS....or so I believe.
 
Is it possible to just level a 4R TE KDSS without lifting the rear? I'd like to level the vehicle while remaining as close to the factory engineering as possible. Seems as if 3/4 to 1" would do the trick.
Any idea if this will work;
Front Top Plate Spacer Kit - Toytec Lifts: Toyota Lift Kits: FJ Cruiser Lift Kits, Tacoma Lift Kits, Tundra Lift Kits, 4 Runner Lift Kits, Sequoia Lift Kits, Toyota Truck Lift Kits
Will I encounter the same problems as previously discussed in this thread?
Sure ,They will work but takes a good bit of work. They would have to take the CO out,compress the spring and disassemble it .Then they can press the 3 old studs out of the stock top plate and press the new longer ones in,that you see in the toytec pic. They also would still have to disconnect the KDSS sway bar from the LCA too to get it to drop enough to get the CO's out to begin with.
 
Just thinking out loud here...for you guys whom have worked on the front suspension before, do you think something like this would fit while the struts are still bolted in place, and how much shorter do we need to compress the spring to maneuver the strut out w/o disconnecting the sway bars? Am I dreaming? :)

attachment.php
 
Just thinking out loud here...for you guys whom have worked on the front suspension before, do you think something like this would fit while the struts are still bolted in place, and how much shorter do we need to compress the spring to maneuver the strut out w/o disconnecting the sway bars? Am I dreaming? :)

attachment.php

I did it with a spring compressor when I first got my truck,in the wheel well with my XREAS without disconnecting the hydraulic line to put in a 1 inch Toytec spacer but I wouldn't recommend it or do it again.

The problem with the our front springs is the winds of the springs(especially the drivers side) are much tighter then that pic of a Tundra spring which makes it a PITA and somewhat dangerous.You can see the bolts bending in that pic and if one breaks or the fingers slip, somebody's is going to loose a gack. Wall mounted spring compressors with this big of a spring with a high spring rate is much safer and the ideal way to go. I have a good set of Blue Point spring compressors and had to grind the fingers down a little to get them in between the spring windings but it was still hard doing it in the wheel well to do ,but doable.
 
^this +1

I tried to use that same style sorting compressor when I wanted to go to the next notch on my 5100's, but I found there wasn't enough room to manoeuvre the compressor into a place where I could get enough compression
 
Thanks for the heads up guys! Figured it wasn't going to be that easy. I guess I'll just have to suck it up and disconnect the sway bar and hope I can get it back on :dammit:
 

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