t4r4life
Elite Member
But i've jumped it with another car and still the same click. could a weak alternator cause this problem?
4runner down, need some advice
- Thread starter t4r4life
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But i've jumped it with another car and still the same click. could a weak alternator cause this problem?
Just install the battery without jumping. Sometimes the jumper wires won't make good contacts with the terminals.
How about the terminals at each end of the battery wires from the main harness? Are they clamp firm on the terminals?
You should be able to start the tengine even without an alternator. So alternator is not an issue here.
How about the terminals at each end of the battery wires from the main harness? Are they clamp firm on the terminals?
You should be able to start the tengine even without an alternator. So alternator is not an issue here.
t4r4life
Elite Member
terminal is good too, battery itself is good, starting has never been an issue before. my old positive terminal was corrected over with the dying battery, so i recently got new battery and terminal, i scrub the crap outta the new battery and terminal too. battery reads 12.3v not running. but good to hear alternator is not an issue. that thing has been under water so i imagine its not running as good as it use too.
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LittleCaesar
New member
Can you manually turn the engine over (put a 19mm on the crank bolt)?
Given that it not a mall crawler, I'd put my .02 cents on a bad connection somewhere; it may have given up the ghost after you went over a bump, etc.
If that battery is only reading 12.3v, it is on the cusp of being bad. If it is that new, it should be 12.5 and above. My neighbor had to return a Kirkland battery three months after he bought it for his Highlander. Napa tested it and it showed two bad cells. Nonetheless it doesn't sound like the culprit.
Given that it not a mall crawler, I'd put my .02 cents on a bad connection somewhere; it may have given up the ghost after you went over a bump, etc.
If that battery is only reading 12.3v, it is on the cusp of being bad. If it is that new, it should be 12.5 and above. My neighbor had to return a Kirkland battery three months after he bought it for his Highlander. Napa tested it and it showed two bad cells. Nonetheless it doesn't sound like the culprit.
t4r4life
Elite Member
That's what I'm gonna do tomorrow, I'll try a different battery from my friend too. Thanks for the help guys hopefully it's just an easy fix, I was just getting back to modding it too
kball
New member
I agree with Nissan, I think it's the battery. I've heard of kirklands dying young. 12.3 is low and if it has a bad cell it will read okay until you put a load on it. Then it will fall on it's face. Jumping with a good battery through one with bad a cell(s)? Not sure if that would work or not.
t4r4life
Elite Member
hmm, i'll see if i can get a battery somewhere and try, i've had good experience with kirkland but if turn out its the battery then im going to sears.
Altho i don't feel too bad for changing out the autozone starter with a toyota one, its always in the back of my head that i have a crappy starter. and i got it for 170 out the door from the dealer so its not too bad
t4r4life
Elite Member
yeah i need to put some spare parts in the truck too, i rely too much on my friends since they all have parts with them, my truck is more of a bugout truck, i carry camping and survival stuff rather than offroad stuff. i was just thinking of building a cargo drawer this weekend too for my tools, and now i gotta deal with this whole shenanigan
the great him
Elite Member
no the alternator is a required part, you unhook the alt the truck will not start. current passes through it, weather or not its good and pumping out 14.5+ v.... you can not unhook or by pass the alt without other wiring mods. check the larger side wire that goes to the stud on the alt. that was my issue, bad connection. its a power wire, not a ground so it can stop current at that point if its bad.
he already replaced the starter... and oem vs brand x will matter, but now that you have a oem, there is no need to ever buy a new one, just replace the plunger and brushes as/when needed.
check your connections with the new conversion... check the cables as well and with an alt being under water unless it was clean water, they dont like that and you could cook the internals of one. have you have a brake light on in the dash and or a charge light? the two of those together indicates a bad alt. also you might want to check fuses under the hood -i doubt thats the issue as you are still getting a click click, but yeah. my bet is still on the wires, possibly one has some hidden corrosion that you can not see. have you tested the resistance in the wires/cables?t4r4life said:
t4r4life
Elite Member
My alt was reading only at idle with everything on (radio lights ect) 13.5v last time i tested it, that i should replace, but i'll try to turn the crank pully today just to find out if its an issue with a stuck flywheel.
never had any light on, checked all the fuses too, none was blown. i'll take all the connections off today and clean them. thanks kid, you've been a big help.
Kurtis
New member
x3 or x4 on the battery. Don't try to jump it. Like Nissan was saying, you probably won't get enough current transferred through the cables. Take that battery out and put a known good battery in there. If all the other wiring is good I will be surprised if the battery is not your problem.
the great him
Elite Member
how big of wire are you using to jump it? and whats your power source?
t4r4life
Elite Member
Jumper cable size and I was using my battery, I don't think it's a ground problem anymore, because I just grounded it to the battery and still nothing, now I think it might be the ignition.
the great him
Elite Member
i think the wire toyota used to power the starter is either an 6 or 8 ga wire. a set of jumper cables would do the trick.
i dont think its the ignition, as its sending power to the starter... i still think the starter is just not getting good enough power(im thinking stubborn, i know)
can you walk us through the process of how you have tested things like battery, starter ect, pics of your connections could be helpful as well.
have you checked all the motor ground? made sure none of them broke or are lose?
you are deff getting power to the starter. have you made use that all the connections to the starter are plugged in(the little wire harness pig tail? and you are sure that the main power wire is not broken or the insulation on it is all intact and not shorting out someplace... ? what say you [MENTION=94888]EatonKyleH[/MENTION]... you have any thoughts on this dilemma, we all know you are the electrical guru in the 3rd gen section
i dont think its the ignition, as its sending power to the starter... i still think the starter is just not getting good enough power(im thinking stubborn, i know)
can you walk us through the process of how you have tested things like battery, starter ect, pics of your connections could be helpful as well.
have you checked all the motor ground? made sure none of them broke or are lose?
you are deff getting power to the starter. have you made use that all the connections to the starter are plugged in(the little wire harness pig tail? and you are sure that the main power wire is not broken or the insulation on it is all intact and not shorting out someplace... ? what say you [MENTION=94888]EatonKyleH[/MENTION]... you have any thoughts on this dilemma, we all know you are the electrical guru in the 3rd gen section
