4th gen- For all who've done the FJ swap....
- Thread starter ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
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Silver_midlife_t4r
New member
I just ordered the same set about 5 days ago (except the rears were 81081 I think), and I paid $118 including shipping and tax from Rock Auto. If it's not too late to cancel you could save $30.
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Silver_midlife_t4r
New member
No problem, glad to help. I'm curious to see how yours turns out. I'm wanting a 3/2 with this, and I'm thinking I'll need to set the fronts at 1.75.
Silver_midlife_t4r
New member
I did the swap today. Bilstein 5100s with the FJ coils. Bilsteins set to 1.75"
(3rd notch from the bottom). I ordered the Moogs for a 2009 4wd.
I'm not much of a mechanic, and it was fairly easy. I was lucky in that none of the bolts were rusted, so most came off easy. You'll definitely need a breaker bar for the lower ball joint bolts (I didn't disconnect the ball, just the bolts below it.)
The thing that slowed me the most was trying to get the rear coils to seat. I fought the driver's side for a while, and was finally able to seat it using a pry bar. The passenger side fought me much harder, and after prying, hitting, heating, I finally resorted to pulling it out and cutting about an inch off with a grinder. It still had to be pryed in, but was much easier.
I thought the front would be more challenging, but it was actually easier. I used the no spring compressor method, and it was so simple. I loosened the LCAs, and the springs came out with very little effort as I lowered the floor jack.
Anyway, so glad I did it. Right now it's sitting with a reverse rake, but I have a v8 so I'm hoping the front will settle a bit. If not, I'll add some spacers. I won't be driving much in the next few days, and then I'll be having my 265/70/17 Toyo Open Country's installed, and an alignment.
Before
(3rd notch from the bottom). I ordered the Moogs for a 2009 4wd.
I'm not much of a mechanic, and it was fairly easy. I was lucky in that none of the bolts were rusted, so most came off easy. You'll definitely need a breaker bar for the lower ball joint bolts (I didn't disconnect the ball, just the bolts below it.)
The thing that slowed me the most was trying to get the rear coils to seat. I fought the driver's side for a while, and was finally able to seat it using a pry bar. The passenger side fought me much harder, and after prying, hitting, heating, I finally resorted to pulling it out and cutting about an inch off with a grinder. It still had to be pryed in, but was much easier.
I thought the front would be more challenging, but it was actually easier. I used the no spring compressor method, and it was so simple. I loosened the LCAs, and the springs came out with very little effort as I lowered the floor jack.
Anyway, so glad I did it. Right now it's sitting with a reverse rake, but I have a v8 so I'm hoping the front will settle a bit. If not, I'll add some spacers. I won't be driving much in the next few days, and then I'll be having my 265/70/17 Toyo Open Country's installed, and an alignment.
Before
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Silver_midlife_t4r
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aag713
New member
Looking good! I have the exact Rig looking to do the same setting. Got all the parts just looking for the time. Hope mine comes out sitting like yours. Nice work
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Bilstein 5100 @1.75
Bilstein 5100
2014 FJ Cruiser Coil Springs
1.5 in Daystar Spacer - Rear
1.25 Wheel Spacer
275/65/18 Michelin ATX 2
Thanks to Ark Swamp Rider and all the other members here for such an incredible resource of information.
(I hate to admit it, but I paid to have this lift installed. I would typically do this myself, but am heading to Colorado this weekend and work has kept me way too busy!)
Bilstein 5100
2014 FJ Cruiser Coil Springs
1.5 in Daystar Spacer - Rear
1.25 Wheel Spacer
275/65/18 Michelin ATX 2
Thanks to Ark Swamp Rider and all the other members here for such an incredible resource of information.
(I hate to admit it, but I paid to have this lift installed. I would typically do this myself, but am heading to Colorado this weekend and work has kept me way too busy!)
My apologies if this has been discussed already but does anyone know the OEM (not old man emu!) front coil spring rate for the V8 and V6?
The V8 springs *should* be rated for two extra cylinders but not sure if that's 200# more than the V6 springs.
I've got 5100s on order and wanted to know if I should stick the FJC springs back in there or go with the V8 springs. I don't really want a whole bunch of lift so was planning on using the lowest setting at 0.85" and see how that feels.
I've got air bags in the rear so figured I'll find a 1" spacer or close to it to level things out.
Thanks for any input.
The V8 springs *should* be rated for two extra cylinders but not sure if that's 200# more than the V6 springs.
I've got 5100s on order and wanted to know if I should stick the FJC springs back in there or go with the V8 springs. I don't really want a whole bunch of lift so was planning on using the lowest setting at 0.85" and see how that feels.
I've got air bags in the rear so figured I'll find a 1" spacer or close to it to level things out.
Thanks for any input.
just did the install this past weekend. new moog fj fronts and used fj 4x4 rears (purple paint mark on the spring) with billy 5100s. fronts set on the 2nd groove up from bottom. i got a huge lift in the front and a teeeeeeny lift in the back. =) guessing the new front springs will settle a bit over time. i wouldn't want to run them any higher on the perch.. would preload the bejeezus out of them (and you'll never get any kind of compressor between the coils).
tire to fender gap is identical all around. looks like it could use another .5-1" in the back. will get some cheap spring rubbers like these
Speedway Coil-Over Spring Rubbers
to lift it a smidge. overall really happy. removed all the xreas stuff and it's riding much better. a hair firmer but much more controlled. great setup. curious to see how it aligns, once i get wheels / tires.
before
after
tire to fender gap is identical all around. looks like it could use another .5-1" in the back. will get some cheap spring rubbers like these
Speedway Coil-Over Spring Rubbers
to lift it a smidge. overall really happy. removed all the xreas stuff and it's riding much better. a hair firmer but much more controlled. great setup. curious to see how it aligns, once i get wheels / tires.
before
after
based on having just done this, i'm really happy with the fj/5100 combo. the fj springs are good for about 1" f and r. the front 5100 has grooves to adjust the height of the lower perch. set at the lowest setting you'd get about 2" - 1 from the spring and 1 from the perch.
alternatively you could keep the stock springs and set the perch a little higher. preloading the spring more might impact ride a bit more but worth a try.
in the back i got about 1" from the fj spring. the rear spring is very loosely captive and held in by compression. alternatively, you could make a spacer out of thick sheet rubber, glue / screw / rivet it to the existing upper spring locator / isolator / bump stop and get some lift there for a few bucks.
so if you just changed shocks, and made a rear spacer i think that's maximum bang / buck for a small lift. the shocks are a world better than the sacked out xreas stuff i had.
just did the install this past weekend. new moog fj fronts and used fj 4x4 rears (purple paint mark on the spring) with billy 5100s. fronts set on the 2nd groove up from bottom. i got a huge lift in the front and a teeeeeeny lift in the back. =) guessing the new front springs will settle a bit over time. i wouldn't want to run them any higher on the perch.. would preload the bejeezus out of them (and you'll never get any kind of compressor between the coils).
tire to fender gap is identical all around. looks like it could use another .5-1" in the back. will get some cheap spring rubbers like these
Speedway Coil-Over Spring Rubbers
to lift it a smidge. overall really happy. removed all the xreas stuff and it's riding much better. a hair firmer but much more controlled. great setup. curious to see how it aligns, once i get wheels / tires.
before
after
I'm unable to see the pics, must be my work network.
If the fender gap is the same, that makes me think that you're nose high? If you still have the running boards, grab a measurement front/rear just for S&G!
sportschiro07
New member
Want to do FJ spring swap
I just got my Runner 06 sport Ed a couple weeks ago. Just noticed that it already has the 5100's front and back, but it still has the factory look (rake)
Im at 20" from mid-wheel hub to wheel well in front and 21.5 in rear. the guy i got it from said he did some towing of Dirt Bikes.. maybe that setup worked for him. But not so much for me.
question:
1. What years of FJ springs will fit the 06 V6 4x4, front and back?
2. What setting of the 5100 to get a 3" lift front and back, do I use a spacer for rear?
3. How much droop will a steel bumper cause on the front?
your help is appreciated.
thanks
I just got my Runner 06 sport Ed a couple weeks ago. Just noticed that it already has the 5100's front and back, but it still has the factory look (rake)
Im at 20" from mid-wheel hub to wheel well in front and 21.5 in rear. the guy i got it from said he did some towing of Dirt Bikes.. maybe that setup worked for him. But not so much for me.
question:
1. What years of FJ springs will fit the 06 V6 4x4, front and back?
2. What setting of the 5100 to get a 3" lift front and back, do I use a spacer for rear?
3. How much droop will a steel bumper cause on the front?
your help is appreciated.
thanks
1. Don't know
2. In the front, there's a 2:1 "gain" from spring position to lift height. If you stay with the stock springs, moving the spring perch up 1.5" on the 5100 will raise the front about 3". The FJ springs are about 1" longer, so you would only have to move the 5100 up about .5". Not sure there's a .5" setting on the 5100, however.
For the rear, the "gain" is 1:1, so you'll either need a 3" spacer or a 3" longer spring or some combination of the two.
3. Stock (and FJ) front springs are about 680lbs/inch. Because of the 2:1 factor, that works out to 340lbs/inch at the wheels. You have two front wheels holding up your bumper, so you're back to 680lbs/inch. Because the weight of the bumper is extended out in front of the wheels, there is some leverage involved, so call it 500lbs/inch at the bumper. So, if the bumper weighs 250lbs, it should cause about 1/2" of droop.
re 1 and 2..
links will pop right up if you run a few searches. most of this stuff is covered in stickies here and at the 120 forum. for example -
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/78803-compiled-fj-springs-lift-info-4th-gen.html
07-09 springs are a direct drop in for 4th gen 4r's. they're hard to find, i got moog front fj springs on amazon and found a used oem rear set from a local wrecker. mine went in no issues. well, the front moogs aren't ground flat like oem, the coil is wound flat ish.. the perch didnt sit perfectly level on the spring but it installed and works fine. nothing's perfect =)
the perch settings on the 5100 are .85, 1.75.. and i forget the other 2. =) the grooves are evenly spaced, so guessing 2.25 and 3 ish? note that it would be very difficult to compress the springs enough to get them on the 3rd or 4th setting, i could barely get my compressor (nice otc clamshell type) out of the coils for the second perch setting. the fj coils are taller, thicker and have more winds then stock. you'd probably want to take them to a shop to have the springs mounted on the shocks, it would be TIGHT.
hope that helps
sportschiro07
New member
Ron, In10ded thanks for the info
guys,, thanks alot for the info. definately useful and will be using the info and suggestions provided to make a better decision
:clap2:
guys,, thanks alot for the info. definately useful and will be using the info and suggestions provided to make a better decision
:clap2:
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