4th gen- For all who've done the FJ swap....

OK, I'm looking for some advice on where to set my spring perch on the 5100's. I have an '05 V8 4x4. I will be using Icon 2" lift springs in the rear, so I'd like to lift 2.5" to 3" in the front. I don't mind a little rake though, it doesn't have to be perfectly level. With the FJ front coils, should I opt for the 1.75" setting, or go all the way to 2.5"? I'd read some mixed reports saying that 2.5" may actually net well over 3", but I'm not sure if that's with the V8 and 4x4.

I have a '08 V8. Here are my numbers after the upgrade:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/78933-4th-gen-all-whove-done-fj-swap-11.html#post1430314

I have not measured it since, but after 1,000 miles my lift was 2" in the front with the 1.75" setting.

Edit: My 4runner did not have X-REAS system.
 
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as a datapoint AGAINST doing the spring swap, i did them about 10k miles ago. truck rides very poorly. ride is busy, bumpy, skittish. i did 5100's and pulled all the xreas stuff at that time. it's underdamped/ oversprung, especially on the front end. also worth saying i'm a bit of a suspension snob that does not believe stiffer = better. i've got highly modified suspension on my track car, motorcycle, and mountain bikes so have a basic understanding of spring rates and damper profiles.

i've decided to go back to stock springs with spacers. worth noting mine is an 04 sport v6, with 175k miles so i wanted to do something good and cheap. i acutally really liked the xreas, it's an incredible system. i bought the truck from a friend so was in it from 25k miles on. it finally got soft and sloppy at 150k or so so i redid it when i bought it at 160 (wasn't actually leaking). i do mostly highway with light fireroads and i camp / travel light. no armor, bumpers, slders, etc. so the truck is light. if you have a loaded truck the fj springs might / likely would work better.

ive got the front springs on the 3rd highest perch setting and i think that also contributes to the choppyness / busyness. it preloads the shit out of the spring to run the perches that high. at the end of the day i want a little more clearance but also a good ride since everywhere in CA is really far from everywhere else.. =)

if anyone cares im happy to report back with my recation after i swap back stock springs. will also have them fs soon.
 
I have a '08 V8. Here are my numbers after the upgrade:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/78933-4th-gen-all-whove-done-fj-swap-11.html#post1430314

I have not measured it since, but after 1,000 miles my lift was 2" in the front with the 1.75" setting.

Edit: My 4runner did not have X-REAS system.

Thanks! It turns out that the used 5100/FJ Coil strut assemblies I bought are already set on their highest perch, so I think I'll leave them as is to better match up with the 2" lift coils that are going on the back.
 
as a datapoint AGAINST doing the spring swap, i did them about 10k miles ago. truck rides very poorly. ride is busy, bumpy, skittish. i did 5100's and pulled all the xreas stuff at that time. it's underdamped/ oversprung, especially on the front end. also worth saying i'm a bit of a suspension snob that does not believe stiffer = better. i've got highly modified suspension on my track car, motorcycle, and mountain bikes so have a basic understanding of spring rates and damper profiles.

i've decided to go back to stock springs with spacers. worth noting mine is an 04 sport v6, with 175k miles so i wanted to do something good and cheap. i acutally really liked the xreas, it's an incredible system. i bought the truck from a friend so was in it from 25k miles on. it finally got soft and sloppy at 150k or so so i redid it when i bought it at 160 (wasn't actually leaking). i do mostly highway with light fireroads and i camp / travel light. no armor, bumpers, slders, etc. so the truck is light. if you have a loaded truck the fj springs might / likely would work better.

ive got the front springs on the 3rd highest perch setting and i think that also contributes to the choppyness / busyness. it preloads the shit out of the spring to run the perches that high. at the end of the day i want a little more clearance but also a good ride since everywhere in CA is really far from everywhere else.. =)

if anyone cares im happy to report back with my recation after i swap back stock springs. will also have them fs soon.
I'd love to hear the outcome, with the specs on what you decide. Stock springs on 5100's up front?
 
as a datapoint AGAINST doing the spring swap, i did them about 10k miles ago. truck rides very poorly. ride is busy, bumpy, skittish. i did 5100's and pulled all the xreas stuff at that time. it's underdamped/ oversprung, especially on the front end. also worth saying i'm a bit of a suspension snob that does not believe stiffer = better. i've got highly modified suspension on my track car, motorcycle, and mountain bikes so have a basic understanding of spring rates and damper profiles.

i've decided to go back to stock springs with spacers. worth noting mine is an 04 sport v6, with 175k miles so i wanted to do something good and cheap. i acutally really liked the xreas, it's an incredible system. i bought the truck from a friend so was in it from 25k miles on. it finally got soft and sloppy at 150k or so so i redid it when i bought it at 160 (wasn't actually leaking). i do mostly highway with light fireroads and i camp / travel light. no armor, bumpers, slders, etc. so the truck is light. if you have a loaded truck the fj springs might / likely would work better.

ive got the front springs on the 3rd highest perch setting and i think that also contributes to the choppyness / busyness. it preloads the shit out of the spring to run the perches that high. at the end of the day i want a little more clearance but also a good ride since everywhere in CA is really far from everywhere else.. =)

if anyone cares im happy to report back with my recation after i swap back stock springs. will also have them fs soon.

I would really like to hear your results. We have a 2007 SR5 2wd V6 so also on the lighter weight side. Previously had 5100s all around but found the ride pretty stiff on all but the lowest setting. Most of our driving is city streets around the L.A. area (lots of potholes, speed bumps).

Ended up switching back to stock 4runner coils/shocks front and back. Onroad ride is actually pretty good now but would like to stiffen the front just a tiny bit for better road feel without being too harsh. No real off road use so I can't comment on that. Currently using a 1.25" top plate spacer for total front lift of 2.5". Was considering taking out the spacers and replacing with lift coils but don't want to end up with a rough ride either.
 
So going on rock auto and ordering 2009 FJ front and rear moog springs and 2007 4Runner Bilstein 5100s is what I would need for everything to work properly?
 
So going on rock auto and ordering 2009 FJ front and rear moog springs and 2007 4Runner Bilstein 5100s is what I would need for everything to work properly?

That's all I needed for my switch. I got new top mounts for the front struts, but after taking them out (and it being a serious PITA), they were just fine, no wear or cracks whatsoever. If I had to do it again, I would only go with the moog springs (make sure you purchase the 4x4 FJ moog springs) and 5100's. You're all set with just that.

rugger
 
No, sorry. I meant that what you are going with is all you need. I was referring to the mounts that I installed and I wouldn't do that again, the old ones were just fine.

You don't need anything more than the moog springs and the bilstein 5100's, at least I didn't.
 
OK so I've finally read thru this entire thread. So much good info. A couple of clarifying questions:

- If you manage to find true OEM FJ springs, they go in without issue, but if you buy the MOOG replacements it'll require some trimming of the spring? For people that have had shops install these, have they had any issues with this?

- I found a set of 2008 OEM FJ springs for sale, is there any mileage/wear concerns I should have? I know shocks have a concrete lifespan but I get the impression that unless there is clear rust, springs will last indefinitely.

- For a V8, when pairing with 5100s, is a (and if so what size) spacer needed on the rear to level out when set to .85? I know this one should be answered via the table but there's a mix of people seemingly running a spacer or no spacer with the V8 so any input here would be great.
 
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MOOG springs 81083 81108 with 5100 shocks installed
No mods required - done at local Midas muffler shop.
shocks installed with circlip at first lift groove .85" ?
2008 Limited V8 looks perfectly level
 
MOOG springs 81083 81108 with 5100 shocks installed
No mods required - done at local Midas muffler shop.
shocks installed with circlip at first lift groove .85" ?
2008 Limited V8 looks perfectly level

Awesome thanks for the quick response :cheers:
 
I just did the swap. The rear springs are not sitting correctly. What did everyone do to make them sit properly? Did you guys cut the spring or use a prybar?

If using the prybar method how do I do it exactly?
 
Be the judge

I did mine last year, I used Moog 81081 2009 fj rear springs $57 and 07-09 fj DTA 70020 quick struts and rear shocks $169 and did a supreme suspensions 3" front 2" rear spacer lift $165. All purchased on Amazon and installed by me, I eliminated the xraes factory suspension.
 

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I just did the swap. The rear springs are not sitting correctly. What did everyone do to make them sit properly? Did you guys cut the spring or use a prybar?

If using the prybar method how do I do it exactly?

I did mine a couple of years ago, so -- quite truthfully -- my memory is a bit fuzzy.

I know that after I finished, I went to a local garage, and cut a deal to pay one 1 hr of labor (plus a tip for the mechanic) to have the mechanic help me. If I recall correctly, I think I had trouble with the "pan hard bar" ... of that's what it's called. It was a diagonal bar on the rear suspension. The mechanic pulled out some very long pry bars, and we used a combination of finesse and brute strength to get it to seat properly.



There may be a better method, but I haven't learned it.

One thought... and I don't know if it will help, or be a waste of time... is to consider going to a big chain autoparts store that does free loaner tools, and borrowing a spring compressor from them.

BE CAREFUL WITH SPRING COMPRESSORS... you can get hurt if they slip off.

By me, two large chains lend tools. When you want to borrow the tool, they give you a kit, and charge you a price for the tool kik (often $100 to $150)... but then you have a long time (30 or 60 days... I don't recall) to return the used tool for a full refund. It's not the same as abusing a return policy. They really are meant to be loaner tools (in fact, they usually are used when you get them). They charge you and give you a refund as their way of making sure that they get the tool back.

Two words of caution. First, don't lose any pieces or small parts, or you may find that you bought the kit. Second, at one location, the manager asked me to take a call phone photo of the open box with all of the kit parts and keep the photo on my cell phone -- just in case there were any questions upon return, I could show the photo to have a record of what was there when I picked up the kit.

If my memory serves me correctly, when I did the install myself, I had a spring compressor... the kind that looked like a very long screw with two knuckles on it, that grabbed the spring, and then you tightened it to compress the spring. There were two of these items, and I had nothing but trouble with them. The popped off several times, and at other times, once I got them in place, I couldn't release them to get the back off.

My final solution was putting the whole truck on jack stands, releasing the pan-hard bar (if that's the name... the diagonal one), and getting a friend to help.

With him standing on the axel, and some pry bars and elbow grease, I finally got it mostly in place.

Later, with the help of a pro, I was able to rotate the spring to get it seated completely correctly, and fix a few areas that weren't quite right.

Before that, I had tried several hours of work solo, and didn't get very far... for me at least, it turned out to be a two person job.


Here are some images of compressor spring kits that are available to rent near me.

The first image didn't work for me... although NOW that I read it, it seems to be made to compress the spring on struts (not sure that I'd trust it for that... I used the no-compressor trick written up on this forum... it's one where you use a jack to compress and slowly decompress the lower control arm, so you end up slowly and carefully releasing and then recompressing the strut coil without using any type of tool... just the weight of the vehicle, and some jacks... for the struts, I'd prefer to pay a shop to compress them, rather than use some cheap kit that I've never used and risk getting hurt).

The second one I would tend to favor, as I prefer having a flat piece or a disc shaped piece inside the coil spring, and I suspect it would make it easier to remove.
I would suspect that the third kit might be hard to remove one the spring is in place, but your experience may differ.

I can't recall if I had the spring compressed at all when my friend helped me, or whether we just muscled them in. I do recall releasing the pan-hard bar, and having him stand on the rear axel to open up space for me. I also recall having to watch the line on the brake calipers... but I don't remember if there were any connectors I had to loosen or other tricks to give me some more length. I also don't recall whether I had to mess with the brake calipers to give me more room to move the axel, or whether everything was OK.

If anyone has a better, more sane way of replacing the rear coil springs, I'm all ears. I'll confess that I didn't do a lot of reading or research on the procedure before attempting it.... that's now become a standard practice for me, since it can save soooo much time! :-) Good luck, and let us know what you learn or find out.
 

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I just did the swap. The rear springs are not sitting correctly. What did everyone do to make them sit properly? Did you guys cut the spring or use a prybar?

If using the prybar method how do I do it exactly?


What exactly is the issue? You may know this but the lower spring mount has a stop and the spring has to be placed so that the end of the spring is against the stop. Scroll down in this post to the part about the rear springs to see pics of what I’m talking about.
 
FWIW. Swapped out my suspension over the previous couple weeks. Gave it a week of settling and an alignment. Here's my numbers:



2006 v6 with 265/70/17s

went with 5100s set at 1.75 in the front and FJC 07-09 coils (I think with around 50k on them, not 100% certain though)



Stock

Front: Driver - 33 3/8, Passenger - 33 1/2

Rear: 35 1/2, 36 3/8



FJC/5100s

F: D - 36", P - 36 1/8"

R: 36 3/4", 37"



Overall the ride is much better, I no longer feel like my truck is a small boat! I much prefer the leveled look as well! Thanks for all the resources and work everyone

And the obligatory photo:
8a35ce6a7c528d44e2e53a8c2789f1a0.jpg
 
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I've got an 04 V8, and looking at getting an 07 FJ set for sale near by. But as Im reading through this thread Im seeing that everyone is adding spacers up front, some as much as 2.5".

So will the FJ suspension actually give any lift up front without a spacer, on the heavier V8? It seems like guys would be getting no lift at all from this conversion without the spacers up front. That would defeat the purpose for me.

Anyone with a V8 have JUST the FJ fronts, without a spacer? Thanks
 
Hi all -- surprised to see that this thread hasn't had much activity since 2020. I'm looking to refresh my suspension on my 2003 v8 T4R. Is it acceptable to go to Rock Auto and just get any springs that are compatible with the 2007 FJ and install them? Or should I be specifically looking for OEM springs (which by this point are going to be hard to find without many miles on them).

I'm looking for a ride upgrade with a modest lift (1-1.5"), nothing crazy. Just accounting for new components and potential for some slightly larger tires in the future.

My assumption is that any 'stock height' coils for the 2007 FJ Cruiser will work great with Bilstein 5100s on my '03 4Runner but I haven't done this before and am over thinking it of course :P.

Examples from RockAuto:
- Moog 81108 (front) / Moog 81081 (rear)
- Lesjofors 4192529 (front) / Lesjofors 4492516 (rear)

Or I could just stick with OME / Bilstein B12 that are specifically for the 4Runner.
 

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