Thats a big tire. I am running a similar setup as you up front, but at the 1.75" notch on the bilsteins. I have 265/65/18 and just barely rub the front plastic below the bumper. I imagine in the least you will have to remove mudflaps, do some cutting/moving the fender liner around. You have the lift to run the tire, but the wheel wells are too narrow front to back to deal with this tire and no cutting.
4th Gen Suspension Options/FAQ
- Thread starter ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
- Start date
Thats a big tire. I am running a similar setup as you up front, but at the 1.75" notch on the bilsteins. I have 265/65/18 and just barely rub the front plastic below the bumper. I imagine in the least you will have to remove mudflaps, do some cutting/moving the fender liner around. You have the lift to run the tire, but the wheel wells are too narrow front to back to deal with this tire and no cutting.
Powder_Hound
New member
There is a post dedicated to this.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/51742-lift-tire-central-pics-post-em-up.html
For the front, short of a full LT kit, $$$$, Bilsteins are the longest travel.
For the rear, won't beat metal tech long travel.
Other than that, completely custom.
Sent from the drivers seat of my 05 4runner.
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
t-man is correct, you could also:
- Remove sway bars
- A rear locker can make up for limited travel, if a wheel is in the air with not enough droop.
- 35's would increase downtravel 1", but decrease uptravel 1" if you want to get all technical and milk it.
ddnww
New member
I guess it's mainly the rear that I can feel needs more travel. When I go through some terrain which articulates my suspension, I can feel the rear tires 3 wheelin.
Ya I get that a lot too. You can do metal tech LT kit, just coils and shocks will do at first, or get the coils and then the long procomp shocks for slightly cheaper. Metal tech kit is a great kit though. Only thing I don't like is they lower the bump stops so you don't bottom out the shocks. This is so 35's won't rub, but if you don't have 35's it's a waste IMHO. Either way, will double your factory travel with their kit.
Sent from the drivers seat of my 05 4runner.
ddnww
New member
I remember a discussion about quick disconnect rear sway, but I don't remember if there was a set for sale or if it was more of a DIY or what.
edit: a rear locker is on my list also.
I will look into these. So its cheaper to piece the coils and procomp shocks? Im having trouble locating the pro comp long travel shock for our 4runners.
Last edited:
RB Sport04
New member
Lift and shocks
Great Thread and great timing I have a 2004 Sport T4R and both rear XREAS shocks and totally shot (leaking badly) and also clueless about lifts. I was getting ready to swap out the stock XREAS system and was thinking of the Bilstein shocks on the front but not sure what I should put on the rear as I was thinking of adding a little lift so that I don't have to keep hammering out and welding my skid plate during my weekend bird hunting in the local area. Do you think the 2/1 spacer set up will work or something less?? I still do 80% of my travel on highway so handling is still very important. Also I've read on other Forums about sway bar bushing replacement. I was planning to do this as well as the one on the rear looks like it is overdue. Any suggestions would be most helpful.
Great Thread and great timing I have a 2004 Sport T4R and both rear XREAS shocks and totally shot (leaking badly) and also clueless about lifts. I was getting ready to swap out the stock XREAS system and was thinking of the Bilstein shocks on the front but not sure what I should put on the rear as I was thinking of adding a little lift so that I don't have to keep hammering out and welding my skid plate during my weekend bird hunting in the local area. Do you think the 2/1 spacer set up will work or something less?? I still do 80% of my travel on highway so handling is still very important. Also I've read on other Forums about sway bar bushing replacement. I was planning to do this as well as the one on the rear looks like it is overdue. Any suggestions would be most helpful.
RB Sport04
New member
Any Ideas
Great info on your post. I have a 2004 Sport Edition T4R whose X Reas shocks are shot. Like many posts the dealerships want several $$$ to replace so I'm ready to take the plunge and put on standard shocks and also thinking of adding a little lift so I don't have to keep beating out and on occasion welding my skid plate. I was thinking a 2/1 lift would be fine. I was also looking to replace my sway bar bushings as the rear one is starting to look a bit worn. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Great info on your post. I have a 2004 Sport Edition T4R whose X Reas shocks are shot. Like many posts the dealerships want several $$$ to replace so I'm ready to take the plunge and put on standard shocks and also thinking of adding a little lift so I don't have to keep beating out and on occasion welding my skid plate. I was thinking a 2/1 lift would be fine. I was also looking to replace my sway bar bushings as the rear one is starting to look a bit worn. Any ideas would be appreciated.
martini
New member
Spring Seat Question
I just installed 5100s with OME 884s and one of the spring seats moved a little during installation. The driver side spring is not flush with the lip of the spring seat (shown below, red line is the gap between the end of the spring and start of the lip). The passenger side is flush as shown.
Driver - gap:
Passenger - flush:
I've read that springs should be installed so that they are flush against the lip on the spring seat but I don't know the reasoning behind why this is needed? I know it is right to have it flush so I'll probably correct it when I have time.
I just installed 5100s with OME 884s and one of the spring seats moved a little during installation. The driver side spring is not flush with the lip of the spring seat (shown below, red line is the gap between the end of the spring and start of the lip). The passenger side is flush as shown.
Driver - gap:
Passenger - flush:
I've read that springs should be installed so that they are flush against the lip on the spring seat but I don't know the reasoning behind why this is needed? I know it is right to have it flush so I'll probably correct it when I have time.
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
That shouldn't effect anything, there is no safety concern. They just need to be close. If anything it should help correct driver's side lean the way you have it.
S p a r k y
New member
[MENTION=45390]martini[/MENTION] no worries there. Don't even think twice
DT04R
New member
I'm about in the same place with research/buying, I'm looking at this:
BILSTEIN 33-187174 5100 REAR SHOCK SET
BILSTEIN 5100 HEIGHT ADJUSTABLE FRONT SHOCK PAIR (C477)
OLD MAN EMU 2884 FRONT COIL SET
So the 884s for the front, and since I'm not running heavy loads and wanted good onroad comfort I'm looking at the Wheelers in house T12 for the rear, but they did say, if I wanted to stiffen it up a bit, allow for higher hauling weights, then I would want to step it up to the 2895E.
I'm looking for more in the 1.5" range of lift (looks like the 885s are for another 1/2" or so?)
Our 4R is a '08 V8/AWD (with an existing, blown our X-REAS)
kyle_uran
New member
I have a V8 as well. 885s around around 2.5" without armor up front, if i'm not mistaken. 884 and T12 would probably sit well.
I'm likely going to get the Toytec 2.0" rear coils. The OME 295 are really stiff unloaded, from what i've read.
DT04R
New member
Thanks for the input!
Do you mean stock SR5 shocks? If so, I've also been wanting to hear why everyone immediately tries something other than Toyota factory shocks if a T4R is 98% highway, 2% dirt road, with no extreme wheeling.
There's not much out there about swapping XREAS for SR5 shocks...(yes, I did search, numerous times).
Similar threads
