4th Gen Suspension Options/FAQ

Hey everyone, I have a question about my Bilstein 6112's on my 05 V8. I currently have the standard spring (14" x 3" @ 600lbs.) on the top perch, and I'm not getting the lift I want from it. I am going to be upgrading to a steel bumper with a winch soon, and need more lift. I know that i can replace the springs with a heavier weight spring, like the king springs at 650 or 700 lbs... but what about adding a longer spring? If I bumped it down to the bottom perch (1" lower) and got a 16" spring (adding 2"... but dropping it 1" so effectively adding 1" of spring) would that be horrible? Does anyone have any other suggestions?
Thanks

I experienced the exact same thing with the 6112s and v8, just not enough lift for the V8, it was only 2-2.5 in so the shop I used swapped the 600lb spring for a king 700lb and it's right at 3" maybe even less now, not too much spring at all, very soft. Would love to see a 16" 650lb spring or even 700lb 16".
 
I experienced the exact same thing with the 6112s and v8, just not enough lift for the V8, it was only 2-2.5 in so the shop I used swapped the 600lb spring for a king 700lb and it's right at 3" maybe even less now, not too much spring at all, very soft. Would love to see a 16" 650lb spring or even 700lb 16".

Do you have any body armor? If it is soft with 700's I think I'll go the 16" route.
 
I did this last summer. All 4 wheels off the ground, crack open fluid line at the junction block on the frame rail, one on either side. let drain. remove line from each shock, let drain. Remove all hard lines and flex lines for shocks. Remove like any other shock/strut system. Install new shocks and springs, enjoy.



If you disconnect XREAS at the check valves you don’t lose any hyd fluid.


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If you disconnect XREAS at the check valves you don’t lose any hyd fluid.


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I wanted it all gone, lol. I cut the cross over lines with a hacksaw, those were a pain. Both the rears were leaking anyway and most the fluid was gone from one side, lol.
 
I experienced the exact same thing with the 6112s and v8, just not enough lift for the V8, it was only 2-2.5 in so the shop I used swapped the 600lb spring for a king 700lb and it's right at 3" maybe even less now, not too much spring at all, very soft. Would love to see a 16" 650lb spring or even 700lb 16".

Exactly why I didn't buy the 6112's.
 
Need advice

2008 4.7L V8 SR5 4x4

I was all set to buy strut spacers to raise and level it out, but my original front struts are leaking. Since I need struts I thought I'd go with Bilstein 5100's which are height adjustable in front, but the rears are not. If the setting choices are 0, .85", 1.75" and 2.5" I think getting it level will be a problem. I'd like it 2" - 2.5" higher in front but level. Any advice on what should I get?

I need new tires also and I'm going with stock size because I don't want to adversely effect the 0-60 time by installing a taller tire. I only do casual off roading and I drive it to work daily so ride quality is important.

Any help is appreciated.
 
2008 4.7L V8 SR5 4x4

I was all set to buy strut spacers to raise and level it out, but my original front struts are leaking. Since I need struts I thought I'd go with Bilstein 5100's which are height adjustable in front, but the rears are not. If the setting choices are 0, .85", 1.75" and 2.5" I think getting it level will be a problem. I'd like it 2" - 2.5" higher in front but level. Any advice on what should I get?

I need new tires also and I'm going with stock size because I don't want to adversely effect the 0-60 time by installing a taller tire. I only do casual off roading and I drive it to work daily so ride quality is important.

Any help is appreciated.

Why are you lifting it if you are worried about your 0-60? :)
I'd suggest getting The 5100's all around and also replace your rear springs. The rear shocks aren't what provide the lift, it is the rear coil springs. Get some ARB 2" lift medium spring rate and you'll be set!
 
Thanks for the replies. Please allow me to rephrase my question.

I'm installing Bilstein 5100's on the front. I am not installing larger tires and not replacing springs. I want it level (no rake forward or rearward). What rear spacer will I need if the front 5100's are set at 1.75"? How about if set to 2.5"? (Brand, thickness, and a website link if possible)

Thanks.
 
If you're not adding any rear spacers, set to .85". Suspension geometry in the front nets double the lift you set it at. So .85" should net you about 1.6-1.7" in the front. This should level you out.
 
Thanks. I may set it at .85 and do nothing in the rear. But if I decide to go 1.75 on the front what spacers do I need?

Also, I know front spacer thickness results in actual height twice as high, but I thought the advertised Bilstein heights of .85, 1.75 etc was the end result height. Are you saying 2.5" setting raises the front 5 inches?
 
Hello everyone,

Need some input, 05 V8 Limited 4x4 w/ XREAS

I just ordered the bilstein 5100/OME coil package that Yotamafia has on their site.
6ab0efb69998addae836b547d31367a4.jpg

I can take out the XREAS with no problem, my questions are as follows:

I have seen on this site that there is talks that the 4Runner w/ XREAS needs a different top hat? Is this the case? I was going to order the KYB tophat but didn’t know if there was a different part/part# since mine has XREAS now.

I ordered the 886 coils and 895 for the rear. I have arb front bumper on order which is why I went with the 886 for the front. Do I need to purchase UCA’s right away?

Do I need to purchase extended brake lines? I know stoptech has metal lines but wasn’t sure if that’s what I needed.

Thanks in advance,

Sean


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Hello everyone,

Need some input, 05 V8 Limited 4x4 w/ XREAS

I just ordered the bilstein 5100/OME coil package that Yotamafia has on their site.
6ab0efb69998addae836b547d31367a4.jpg

I can take out the XREAS with no problem, my questions are as follows:

I have seen on this site that there is talks that the 4Runner w/ XREAS needs a different top hat? Is this the case? I was going to order the KYB tophat but didn’t know if there was a different part/part# since mine has XREAS now.

I ordered the 886 coils and 895 for the rear. I have arb front bumper on order which is why I went with the 886 for the front. Do I need to purchase UCA’s right away?

Do I need to purchase extended brake lines? I know stoptech has metal lines but wasn’t sure if that’s what I needed.

Thanks in advance,

Sean


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The KYB top hats are what you need. They need to be installed correctly for passenger and drivers side, so watch that.

UCA's with a 3 inch lift is not necessary but highly recommended. Some have been able to get it into spec. others have not. I personally bought the JBA uppers and I am glad I did, much easier to do them with everything out. If you live in the rust belt you might want to replace the bolt and washers too while you are at it.

Keep an eye on your CV boots too, the increased angle will cause some to leak. Both my inner boots leaked until I replaced the clamps.

Brake lines, I didn't find that I needed the extended ones, there was enough line to not stretch.

Watch out for the ABS lines however they are fragile.
 
Last edited:
The KYB top hats are what you need. They need to be installed correctly for passenger and drivers side, so watch that.

UCA's with a 3 inch lift is not necessary but highly recommended. Some have been able to get it into spec. others have not. I personally bought the JBA uppers and I am glad I did, much easier to do them with everything out. If you live in the rust belt you might want to replace the bolt and washers too while you are at it.

Keep an eye on your CV boots too, the increased angle will cause some to leak. Both my inner boots leaked until I replaced the clamps.

Brake lines, I didn't find that I needed the extended ones, there was enough line to not stretch.

Watch out for the ABS lines however they are fragile.



Good to know thank you for the input, I will look at UCA’s I was hoping I could avoid them at the beginning and order after. So I will see how it plays out.




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