4th Gen Suspension Options/FAQ

Hello, I just got a 2003 v8 limited and the found out the 4wd doesn't engage. Can anybody point me to the right thread on how to solve this problem? This site is extensive and hard to navigate. I really want to get my first 4runner running properly cuz it's snowing!

not in this thread. on google type in 4th gen 4runner 'engaging 4x4' or something like that and youll get a ton of hits for this forum. and there are a lot of threads on that topic. your v8 is always in 4h. to go to 4l you have to be stopped, in nuetral and then try switching to 4l until it stops blinking on dash and stay constant. must be in nuetral to get back to default 4h too.
 
Edited to correct the info.

Not sure this is the thread for this, but in case anyone else needs a top nut for a Bilstein 4600 rear shock, the size is 10m x 1.25. Got a 6-pack of Class 10.9 (meets or exceeds Class 8 standard) nuts at Auto Zone for about $6.

PM me if you need one as I have a few spares. Free shipped.
 
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10.8 is considered narrow? sweet

Yeah, to me it is lol. Run a 295/70/17 on 1.5" lift and then talk to me about fitting tires. This is on my 5th gen, 4th gen is next. 10.8 is narrow on a wide truck though, looks like a pizza cutter. I'll be going 33x12.5R17 or a wide 295/70 on the 4th gen as well. Also, keep in mind not all tires are created equally. My 285/70/17 KO2 is not the same when measured next to a 285/70/17 Ridge Grappler for example.
 
For anyone who picks up shocks that need new bushings to fit on the rear of a 4th Gen, these methods work great for removing the old and inserting the new.

Thanks to [MENTION=77413]tbst[/MENTION] for describing this complete with a list of needed items in the 3rd Gen forum. Perfect solutions, and as cost effective as it gets. These are 4600s I recently picked up for my 4th Gen.

Removal
9tLYisXm.jpg


Insertion
lMihRL4m.jpg


Done!
svYFKPBm.jpg
 
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Hey everyone. Question on the T1 and T12's from Wheelers if anyone has them.

How much lift did you gain overall in the rear from the T12's themselves? I'm throwing those in the back with 5100's myself.

Also, has anyone set your 5100's at .85 with the T1's? There was a thread about this but not too many responded with setting their shocks at the first notch. Most people just set the 5100's at "0".

I bought some aftermarket UCA's (arrive today) that are good to go on lifts 2-4". I believe (and correct me if I am wrong) that the T1's should net 1.75" up front and if raised to the first notch on the 5100's, 2.75"? Does that seem about right to you all? I also got the rear trim packer and the top plate spacer to correct the lean (suggested by Wheelers).
 
Thanks so much to the author and contributors of this thread. This info came in handy when i was figuring out what suspension setup I wanted to run. Ended up opting for a set of 5100s with 885 springs that I bought from a guy in a local 4Runner club. My plan for the rear is to run Toytec SuperFlex springs and Toytec Boss shocks. Looking forward to getting this build truly started
 
Suspension checklist

Finally pulling the trigger on a proper suspension kit.
I am piecing together the items from a number of places and taking advantage of some (pre) Boxing Week (month?) sales.
The vehicle is a 2007 Toyota 4Runner Sport Edition V8 with XREAS at 160,000km. I currently have a Daystar Spacer Lift installed.
Here is my list:


- Fox Shox 2.5 Factory IFP Coilover Set

- Fox Shox 2.0 Performance Shock with Adjustable Reservoir

- Fox Shox Roost Shield Kit for 2.0

- Total Chaos #96504 UCA

- ARB OME 2885 Rear Coil Spring Medium 2”
Or
- Icon 52700 Rear Coil Spring 2”

- Wheelers Superbump Bumpstops Front & Rear


Am I missing anything or any suggestions for changes?
Which rear coil spring should I get, Icon or OME?

And which hardware should would be worth replacing at this point?
Bolts, Alignment bits (praying my LCA is not frozen), etc.

Thanks all
 
Finally pulling the trigger on a proper suspension kit.
I am piecing together the items from a number of places and taking advantage of some (pre) Boxing Week (month?) sales.
The vehicle is a 2007 Toyota 4Runner Sport Edition V8 with XREAS at 160,000km. I currently have a Daystar Spacer Lift installed.
Here is my list:


- Fox Shox 2.5 Factory IFP Coilover Set

- Fox Shox 2.0 Performance Shock with Adjustable Reservoir

- Fox Shox Roost Shield Kit for 2.0

- Total Chaos #96504 UCA

- ARB OME 2885 Rear Coil Spring Medium 2”
Or
- Icon 52700 Rear Coil Spring 2”

- Wheelers Superbump Bumpstops Front & Rear


Am I missing anything or any suggestions for changes?
Which rear coil spring should I get, Icon or OME?

And which hardware should would be worth replacing at this point?
Bolts, Alignment bits (praying my LCA is not frozen), etc.

Thanks all

What made you finally go with Fox?... Just curious.
 
What's the best way to get the most "inner" nut off for the front strut top hats? Should I just bend the inner fender enough that I can actually get a socket onto it from the engine bay? Seems like I'd have to bend it a ton.
 
Dumb questions time:

Just got 5100 (front set at .85) installed paired with 5th gen coils. Love the new feel and love that the front is raised around 1.5". Would love to do the same height adjustment to the rear. The FAQ calls for spacers as a simplest solution. But aren't spacers like a half-assed solutions? The whole idea of going with 5100 was to do it right. Are spacers in the back work differently from spacers in the front?
 
answered...

Dumb questions time:

Just got 5100 (front set at .85) installed paired with 5th gen coils. Love the new feel and love that the front is raised around 1.5". Would love to do the same height adjustment to the rear. The FAQ calls for spacers as a simplest solution. But aren't spacers like a half-assed solutions? The whole idea of going with 5100 was to do it right. Are spacers in the back work differently from spacers in the front?

Yes, in the back as long as you have 5100 rear shocks they will travel sufficiently you're just moving the coil away from the bucket with no danger of screwing with the geometry of the shock as you would do if you put spacers in front. For a little more money you could get Eibach Pro springs for 1"+ lift or Wheeler's T12 ( I think) for about 1.5" lift. If your springs are good you can save some money.
 
Yes, in the back as long as you have 5100 rear shocks they will travel sufficiently you're just moving the coil away from the bucket with no danger of screwing with the geometry of the shock as you would do if you put spacers in front. For a little more money you could get Eibach Pro springs for 1"+ lift or Wheeler's T12 ( I think) for about 1.5" lift. If your springs are good you can save some money.

Thanks for that detailed and helpful answer.
 
What's the best way to get the most "inner" nut off for the front strut top hats? Should I just bend the inner fender enough that I can actually get a socket onto it from the engine bay? Seems like I'd have to bend it a ton.

That was by far the toughest one b/c it’s all by feel, but breaking it is the hardest part. I ended up putting a closed-end wrench on it then tapping the other end of the wrench with a mallet until it broke free. From there it was pretty easy. Going back on, I tightened it down as much as I could and called it done.
 
What made you finally go with Fox?... Just curious.

I've waffled back and forth and all over about suspension for the last year's. I've gone anywhere from Bilstein 5100's to full king build.
I am a spend a little more and get what you really want kind of person so I knew the Bilsteins were not gonna leave me happy as this is my DD. I have been recommended Fox quite a bit as apparently the coating is better than others for our harsh winters up here in Canada. Recently I have heard King's actually hold up the best but I couldn't justify spending more at this point.
Another deciding factor is I could buy the Fox bits I need within Canada with free shipping and take advantage of a boxing "month" deal.
I did not want to deal with shipping from the US and Duty. Our dollar is not great right now and before shipping or duty I was actually able to find the items cheaper in Canada.
It sounds like Icon vs Fox vs King is a never ending argument as everyone seems to love or hate one or the other. But it's a proven company and seems to fit my vehicle right.
 
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From what I understand Toytec use to make a threaded collar for 5100s turning them into a true coilover. Doesn't seem they make it anymore... anyone know how to turn 5100s into a threaded sleeve coilover? Summit sells threaded sleeves for some bilsteins but they didn't know if they would fit our 5100s.
 
Hey guys, tried searching, but this thread is huge and packed with a shit ton of info. I just got the 5100s front and rear and some Moog FJ front and rears. Was planning on putting them on next week or so, but had a question. Is ok to put some pre-load on 5100s with the FJ swap? Although it’s an OEM spring, it does give a slight lift and I know that you don’t want to pre-load the 5100s with lift coils. TIA and loving the info I’ve found over here.

For reference: I have the Limited V6 and measurements from floor to fender are 32.875” LF and RF and 35.5” LR and RR
 
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Pretty sure FJ guys use 5100s... and I'm sure some of them lift there trucks via 5100s... I would think it's fine. The Moogs are a beefier spring. I had them on front.


Hey guys, tried searching, but this thread is huge and packed with a shit ton of info. I just got the 5100s front and rear and some Moog FJ front and rears. Was planning on putting them on next week or so, but had a question. Is ok to put some pre-load on 5100s with the FJ swap? Although it’s an OEM spring, it does give a slight lift and I know that you don’t want to pre-load the 5100s with lift coils. TIA and loving the info I’ve found over here.

For reference: I have the Limited V6 and measurements from floor to fender are 32.875” LF and RF and 35.5” LR and RR
 

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