5th Gen Calipers
- Thread starter 084RUNNAH
- Start date
snowboardwcu
Member
i tried to order from both rockauto and partstrain, both out of stock as of 4/22
So I finally finished the 5th gen swap today.
The only thing I notice is the pedal moves more than I remember before.
Although I have been going easy on my brakes for the entire winter due to warped rotors.
All I can think is the calipers had frozen pistons and made the pedal stiff? And now with all pistons working and 3mm larger times 8 pistons in the front. Maybe the pedal will move a bit more?
I did try a panic stop, and it stopped VERY fast.
The only thing I notice is the pedal moves more than I remember before.
Although I have been going easy on my brakes for the entire winter due to warped rotors.
All I can think is the calipers had frozen pistons and made the pedal stiff? And now with all pistons working and 3mm larger times 8 pistons in the front. Maybe the pedal will move a bit more?
I did try a panic stop, and it stopped VERY fast.
The caliper piston size is larger on the 5th gen, so more pedal travel should be expected if the master cylinder piston size remains the same.
tc05runner
New member
Subd to doing this !
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
snowboardwcu
Member
confused
alright alright most of my parts are in, but i need assistance still with these SS lines.
i ordered centric/stoptech 950.44007 & 950.44507. here's what I received:
950.44007: stoptech "rear" both ends are 10x1mm standard thread
950.44507: stoptech "front" one end with the banjo fitting
i had anticipated receiving both sets of lines with banjo fittings and ordering the rears from allprooffroad to get the axle rears with standard fittings, are discussed above.
its pouring here in philly today,
,so i can't go look at what i actually need. whats the proper sets of lines we need to do all three? clearly the fronts are banjo style, are both rears standard fitting? thanks all.
alright alright most of my parts are in, but i need assistance still with these SS lines.
i ordered centric/stoptech 950.44007 & 950.44507. here's what I received:
950.44007: stoptech "rear" both ends are 10x1mm standard thread
950.44507: stoptech "front" one end with the banjo fitting
i had anticipated receiving both sets of lines with banjo fittings and ordering the rears from allprooffroad to get the axle rears with standard fittings, are discussed above.
its pouring here in philly today,
,so i can't go look at what i actually need. whats the proper sets of lines we need to do all three? clearly the fronts are banjo style, are both rears standard fitting? thanks all.
Billynath1988
Senior Member
Just ordered 5th gen front calipers Centric 141.44288 and 141.44287
Had to order 1 from rockauto and 1 from partstrain because of availability
Also ordered centric stainless brake lines
Raybestos advanced tech 5th gen front rotors
http://www.amazon.com/Raybestos-980...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
and Akbono performance ultra premium pads
http://www.amazon.com/Akebono-Perfo...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
Ill let you know how it goes when I get a chance to install
Had to order 1 from rockauto and 1 from partstrain because of availability
Also ordered centric stainless brake lines
Raybestos advanced tech 5th gen front rotors
http://www.amazon.com/Raybestos-980...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
and Akbono performance ultra premium pads
http://www.amazon.com/Akebono-Perfo...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
Ill let you know how it goes when I get a chance to install
collierunner
New member
Well things are not going well over here in Portland. Its an amazingly nice day, that the good news.
I went to install the new 5th gen caliper rotors and pad on my 2007. I did the passenger side in under 20 mins. Gave up on replacing the brake line because they are rusted solid, but the rubber looks good.
Go over to the driver side. With just a little bit of pressure the bolt snaps off clean inside. I don't think that the caliper is original, the bolt looks like it was over tightened. So I grab my bits and easy out. I drill it out, insert the easy out and try to removed the bolt. Well the easy out has been used a lot on this truck. Bam! The easy out snapped flush with the bolt.
So now I have a snapped bolt with harden steel inserted into it that my bits can touch.
Any advice? Yes i used PB blaster like crazy before I started. Any one know where I can get a steering knuckle cheap.
I went to install the new 5th gen caliper rotors and pad on my 2007. I did the passenger side in under 20 mins. Gave up on replacing the brake line because they are rusted solid, but the rubber looks good.
Go over to the driver side. With just a little bit of pressure the bolt snaps off clean inside. I don't think that the caliper is original, the bolt looks like it was over tightened. So I grab my bits and easy out. I drill it out, insert the easy out and try to removed the bolt. Well the easy out has been used a lot on this truck. Bam! The easy out snapped flush with the bolt.
So now I have a snapped bolt with harden steel inserted into it that my bits can touch.
Any advice? Yes i used PB blaster like crazy before I started. Any one know where I can get a steering knuckle cheap.
Billynath1988
Senior Member
Been there bud at least you have some room to work. Go buy some wd40 blue torch penetrating oil. I think it works good. Soak the hell out of it a few times and let sit over night. Buy the drill bits small to progressively larger with diamond tips. Take your time. Drill baby drill.
Ive had this happen removing exhaust manifolds on my old car. the bolt and ezout broke into the head. at least you have room
snowboardwcu
Member
hey all, just a warning about the G2 paint system. DO NOT use a solo cup for mixing purposes. I tried to mix half the batch up front for the first coat or two and it ate right through the cup in a few minutes. lost most of it. (yup, i'm that guy. what a stupid move)
no big deal, still had enough for multiple coats on both front calipers. i posted pics here. they turned out great.
no big deal, still had enough for multiple coats on both front calipers. i posted pics here. they turned out great.
Billynath1988
Senior Member
07V8
Member
For those that have done this, what is your brake pedal feel like? When driving at normal speeds, pressing on the brake there is some free travel space of the pedal until the brakes engage. Once they bite, the pedal is firm. If I let go and quickly press on them again, the pedal feel is more linear and "feels" better. Is that simply because of the pressure remaining in the lines between pedal presses?
Just curious what the pedal feedback is on other trucks with this upgrade on 1st and 2nd press of the pedal in rapid succession.
Just curious what the pedal feedback is on other trucks with this upgrade on 1st and 2nd press of the pedal in rapid succession.
pjbrownva
New member
Mine are super-tight and consistent.
I have stainless steel brake lines all around (all 6 lines). Used dot 5.1 fluid,
and did a very thorough job bleeding, using stainless steel speed bleeders to assist me. The bleed order is from closest to farthest. So front left, front right, rear left, then rear right.
Maybe you have some air in the lines? I'm not 100% sure of what that would feel like, other than somewhat spongy... I think.
Hope that helps.
07V8
Member
I don't think it's air as we did a good job bleeding them and the pedal definitely isn't spongy.
I recently did this upgrade to my 4R and I do not notice this same feel. In fact, after reading this I went and tried it just to be sure. Mine pedal feels almost exactly the same as before the upgrade (obviously pulsing due to the previous seized caliper aside).
I am no expert, so take this worth a grain of salt, but I would maybe re-bleed the brakes - just to be sure.
084RUNNAH
New member
Hey guys, it's been just over a year since I initially installed my 5th gen brake upgrade. Just serviced all 4 brakes with good results. No seized calipers and wearing well / evenly.
I noticed some of you guys had issues bleeding / pedal travel. Most of you guys are using what I used in my write up which makes things a bit easier amongst us and maybe we can relate to one another. I bleed my brakes twice within the first week I installed them. When brake, 1/4 inch of travel is what it takes for me to feel them touching/grabbing. The most I have to use to brake in a normal scenario is 1-1 1/2 of travel. Not spongy at all
I noticed some of you guys had issues bleeding / pedal travel. Most of you guys are using what I used in my write up which makes things a bit easier amongst us and maybe we can relate to one another. I bleed my brakes twice within the first week I installed them. When brake, 1/4 inch of travel is what it takes for me to feel them touching/grabbing. The most I have to use to brake in a normal scenario is 1-1 1/2 of travel. Not spongy at all
07V8
Member
I get over an inch of free travel and the normal woosh when first pressing. Subsequent presses in quick succession grab within a quarter of an inch. The pedal has behaved like this with the inch of travel on the first press since I can remember. The overall feel on the second press in quick succession is way better.
Since the pedal isn't connected to anything hydraulic, I don't know how to diagnose air in the system on electro-hydraulic brakes.
Any ideas?
