5th Gen Oil Recommendation? New Owner!

What’s your go to oil?


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Your engine is going to Love the 5w30; please let us know how you like it.

I made the switch last month before I took a 1200 mile road trip. I did the same trip last year and comparing MPGs does not show any hit with the change in oil viscosity.
Engine seems to love it. Maybe it really does seem quieter.
 
Another Amsoil SS UOA, this was 5w30.

solid report. really low AL and iron and the flashpoint is really really high which is great.

i wouldn't sweat the copper one bit. on a lot of the UOA's i've seen for these trucks it doesn't truly level out into the single digits until around 35-40k miles sometimes. its on a downward trend and that's all that matters.

stayed in grade fairly well too. i'd just keep doing what you're doing, all your reports are showing great numbers.
 
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You want the lightest oil that will provide enough film strength to not allow metal to metal contact in the bearing on the rod. More viscosity than that is just heat, less oil pressure and loss of efficiency. Toyota specs the oil with CAFE and warranty on their mind. It does not mean they spec the perfect viscosity for all conditions. That is why they spec a heavier oil in other markets. It is 121 degrees right now at my house which is a hell of alot hotter than Puerto Rico.......
 
Here is the latest oil report using a 30 weight oil; all is good. Acceleration is smooth and overall really happy with my decision to move up in oil weight.
 

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Is your engine running quieter with the 5W30 vs the 0W30 or 0W20? Any difference in performance, MPG, anything like that? I hate the way the 4.0 sounds, I know it's normal, but I still don't like it. Curious if a heavier oil might quiet it up some.
 
Is your engine running quieter with the 5W30 vs the 0W30 or 0W20? Any difference in performance, MPG, anything like that? I hate the way the 4.0 sounds, I know it's normal, but I still don't like it. Curious if a heavier oil might quiet it up some.

The 5w30 and 0w30 are about the same, cant tell a difference between the two. Both sound much better over the 20 weight oil, MPG's are about the same, as for performance you can tell the engine is moving thicker oil but not a big deal to me. But when you get on the peddle the 30 weight oils really smoothed out the engine through the entire power-ban.
 
I’ve already commented that I can’t hear a difference on 5w-30.
I also haven’t seen a measurable difference in mileage in town or on road trips.
I’ve been parking outside this winter and startup has sounded no different at 15° F.
 
Is your engine running quieter with the 5W30 vs the 0W30 or 0W20? Any difference in performance, MPG, anything like that? I hate the way the 4.0 sounds, I know it's normal, but I still don't like it. Curious if a heavier oil might quiet it up some.
This motor reminds me of a 90’s Buick V6 IMSA car with a broken header.
 
nice report. copper's coming down just like it should with more break-in miles, should be gone by 40k judging by other reports i've seen. if you're keeping these engines at or under 1ppm iron per 1000 miles i'd say the oil's doing an excellent job particularly on an engine with a big steel timing chain like ours. great looking flashpoint too.

no idea what your usage case looks like but my only nitpick is you're draining that pricey Amsoil at half its useful lifespan! its a very thin 30 weight judging by the 100cSt but it seems to be doing the job well.
 
I’ve already commented that I can’t hear a difference on 5w-30.
I also haven’t seen a measurable difference in mileage in town or on road trips.
I’ve been parking outside this winter and startup has sounded no different at 15° F.

I did the same thing as you posted earlier, changed oil to 5w30w Amsoil signature, before I made a road trip from Indiana to Arizona and back this past summer. MPG no change, sound-maybe a little more quiet...

Back to 0w-20w Mobile 1 now for winter, temps in teens to 30s mostly. No change in MPG, engine seems a bit louder early on, but quiets down.

now it is probably due to Road Trip v. Around town, but I can tell you my Morimoto oil catch can (5w30w) had a lot less in it than what I have seen in the same miles with 0w20w. Engine temp would have a lot to do with that, but as someone else mentioned on here, thinner oil might burn off more??

anyway, significant difference in the amount of fluids (black smelly stuff) in the can between 5w30 and 0w20. Right now I am blaming the difference on engine run time/temp, but will be moving back to 5w30 in early spring ASAP
 
nice report. copper's coming down just like it should with more break-in miles, should be gone by 40k judging by other reports i've seen. if you're keeping these engines at or under 1ppm iron per 1000 miles i'd say the oil's doing an excellent job particularly on an engine with a big steel timing chain like ours. great looking flashpoint too.

no idea what your usage case looks like but my only nitpick is you're draining that pricey Amsoil at half its useful lifespan! its a very thin 30 weight judging by the 100cSt but it seems to be doing the job well.

Thank you sir, things are coming along nicely. Definitely on the thin side for a 30 weight. I know the oil can run longer but i cant get comfortable with the 10k interval.
 
Not sure what they use with toyotacare, I have never used that service for reasons just like you posted. Not worth the free oil changes to me, I'll do it myself and know it was done right. The 75LF transfer case fluid isn't cheap but it's cheaper than taking a chance with other fluids and possibly causing damage to your transfer case. Plus I plan on changing it every 50K along with transmission fluid which for me is every 7 years.

We are required to use Genuine Toyota oil in all of the complimentary services. I highly recommend sticking with it.
 
We are required to use Genuine Toyota oil in all of the complimentary services. I highly recommend sticking with it.

That's funny because Toyota doesn't make oil. "Toyota" oil is rebranded low end Mobil oil. While the additive package in the "Toyota" oil is very nice, better than quite a few other oils on the market, there are superior oils out there. As for using Toyota Care, never going to happen. Dealer oil change monkeys are clueless and will never touch either of my vehicles.
 
That's funny because Toyota doesn't make oil. "Toyota" oil is rebranded low end Mobil oil. While the additive package in the "Toyota" oil is very nice, better than quite a few other oils on the market, there are superior oils out there. As for using Toyota Care, never going to happen. Dealer oil change monkeys are clueless and will never touch either of my vehicles.


Yep, did the Toyota care 1x...idiots tightened the oil filter housing so tight, I had to use a breaker bar to remove it. Of course, housing cracked, but I was prepared from what I read here.
 
Yep, did the Toyota care 1x...idiots tightened the oil filter housing so tight, I had to use a breaker bar to remove it. Of course, housing cracked, but I was prepared from what I read here.

I put aluminum housings on both of mine at their first oil change with I did at 2000 miles.
 
IMHO Aluminum filter housing in contact with aluminum cylinder block may be not best as many people over-torqued housing, and eventually thread in block may be compromised. broken plastic housing cheaper to replace than block.
 
IMHO Aluminum filter housing in contact with aluminum cylinder block may be not best as many people over-torqued housing, and eventually thread in block may be compromised. broken plastic housing cheaper to replace than block.

Oil filter housing does not thread directly into the engine block. It threads into an oil filter bracket, which is replaceable. The part number for my vehicle is 15671-31040. Camelback Toyota sells it for $107. Amazon sells it for $97.
 

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