5th Gen Oil Recommendation? New Owner!

What’s your go to oil?


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Interesting. A little research shows what you're saying...I'd still but scared to run that thick of oil in this engine. Generally speaking, you can cause more damage running oil that is too thick as opposed to oil that is too thin, on a modern engine.

You being in the mid-west I think running a 0w20 in the winter is a good strategy; but this summer try a 5w30 or 10w30 and you will defiantly hear and fell the difference. Butter smooth and quiet, engine feels really good throughout the RPM curve.
One of the members just posted his oil analysis from Blackstone running a 0w40 and his oil report was "Perfect". I think its a page or two back in this thread; worth looking at. Not sure what climate he is in though!
My 2019 owners manual calls for the following:
US - 0w20 Recommended.
Puerto Rico - 0w20, 5w20, 5w30, 10w30 and 15w40.
Me being in florida the 10w30 is a perfect fit most of the year.
 
I have the OBDLink MX+ and I like it. Display data is similar to yours as well as some diagnostic data, such as catalytic converter temps, all cylinder misfire count, diagnostic trouble code count, short term fuel trims, long term fuel trims, knock data and tire pressures. YouTube videos explain how to diagnose rich or lean conditions using fuel trims and oxygen sensor voltages. I hope I'll never have to dig that deep into a diagnosis, however it's there if I ever need it.

I like it; thank you for sharing!
 
is it smart enough to detect tire positions after tire rotations?
If you rotate tires when one of them is 10 psi low, you'll see the low tire pressure reading move from one position to another.
 
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One of the members just posted his oil analysis from Blackstone running a 0w40 and his oil report was "Perfect". I think its a page or two back in this thread; worth looking at. Not sure what climate he is in though!

that's me. i'm in east GA where our climate is anywhere from "kinda chilly" for about 3 months to mostly "scorching" for the rest. add to this our driving situation that place us in the manual's "severe use" category and there is no reason for me to run anything less than a 30wt at all times, and i'm not losing any sleep over a lost .3mpg per tank. i've said it before and its worth repeating - i'm not knocking anyone for running the factory 20wt, but this engine is designed to handle far thicker if your use case calls for it.

we just got back from a 1700 mile round trip pulling our camper at 70mph across the southeast locked in S4, and i have a feeling the 40wt in the sump did a nice job.
 
Fram - Amsoil - TRD oil filters seem to be a good synthetic option. The Amsoil and TRD are built heavy duty, Amsoil being rated at 15k miles but no mileage claim on the TRD, but both look to be made at the same factory. Only difference is the end caps and different color gaskets. Fram claims 20k miles but that seems silly to me.
Looking forward to not having to drop the skids for an oil change for 15k miles :)
 

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Fram - Amsoil - TRD oil filters seem to be a good synthetic option. The Amsoil and TRD are built heavy duty, Amsoil being rated at 15k miles but no mileage claim on the TRD, but both look to be made at the same factory. Only difference is the end caps and different color gaskets. Fram claims 20k miles but that seems silly to me.
Looking forward to not having to drop the skids for an oil change for 15k miles :)

Fram is a horrible filter. Last filter I would ever use or recommend to anyone.
 
Royal purple “makes” a filter exactly like the TRD and amsoil filter. All three are probably made by the same company. It’s also the cheapest of the 3 for 12 dollars compared to 20 for the others.

Royal Purple 20-968 Oil Filter
 
How is this metal framed filter (TRD etc) any better than the standard OEM filter? The paper element does the filtration and I bet it’s the same thing in both.
 
Royal purple “makes” a filter exactly like the TRD and amsoil filter. All three are probably made by the same company. It’s also the cheapest of the 3 for 12 dollars compared to 20 for the others.

Royal Purple 20-968 Oil Filter

I didn't realize that royal purple made an oil filter for our rigs, looks to be another great option if your in the market for a synthetic oil filter. Thanks for sharing.
 
Has anyone tried this Fram full synthetic wire back oil filter? Construction seems solid.

Well the results are in, looks like the Fram took a beating from the 10w30. 7000k+ miles, the last 1100 miles I pulled a loaded trailer from Michigan to Florida, locked in s4 she was huffing and puffing. The fram box shows a wire backing but it’s just marketing, no re-enforced wire backing. Did it Fail? I would have to say yes, however, it didn’t come apart. But it did lose its structural integrity.
 

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Fram has a technical information bulletin on collapsed oil filters https://www.fram.com/media/1084/collapsedcentertubes.pdf I'm also wondering if one of the end o-rings from an Amsoil or TRD filter came off, remained stuck and caused the Fram filter to buckle during installation. After several Google searches and looking at photos of deformed oil filter cartridges, I think this Fram filter is twisted, not collapsed. The first image appears to show twist. Do you have a micrometer to measure this Fram filter height and compare it with a new OEM filter? As I recall, the center metal tube is spring loaded, so it should accommodate small variations in cartridge height. Do you have the metal oil filter cap? If so, did you install the longer center tube and is it free to move slightly? I have doubts about oil weight causing this. I suggest sending the photos to Fram and asking them what happened. https://fram.pissedconsumer.com/customer-service.html
 
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Not sure what is to be gained by not using the original Toyota filter. The cost of oil filters is trivial relative to the overall cost of ownership.
 
Well the results are in, looks like the Fram took a beating from the 10w30. 7000k+ miles, the last 1100 miles I pulled a loaded trailer from Michigan to Florida, locked in s4 she was huffing and puffing. The fram box shows a wire backing but it’s just marketing, no re-enforced wire backing. Did it Fail? I would have to say yes, however, it didn’t come apart. But it did lose its structural integrity.

Fram is garbage, has been for many years.
 
Well the results are in, looks like the Fram took a beating from the 10w30. 7000k+ miles, the last 1100 miles I pulled a loaded trailer from Michigan to Florida, locked in s4 she was huffing and puffing. The fram box shows a wire backing but it’s just marketing, no re-enforced wire backing. Did it Fail? I would have to say yes, however, it didn’t come apart. But it did lose its structural integrity.

Your pics simply show that the length of the filter was compressed when mounted. There really is no failure of the media as you show it.
In reality it is a common occurrence with this type of filter assembly, especially for example, with the GM EcoTech engine family, where literally gazillions were made, and yet the engine has the least amount of warranty claims of any GM engine ever.

The problem is caused by a filter cartridge that may be a hair too long combined with less stellar (rigid) filter material. When installed the spring loaded relief valve is too strong for the media and slightly twists and distorts the media. You can measure the cartridge with Vernier Calipers.
The spring loaded metal tube assembly reference previously is the filter bypass, not to be confused with the oil pressure pump bypass. When the filter media becomes full and cannot process oil, it moves to allow the oil to bypass the filter completely.
The GM EcoTech filter relief assembly has a spring that is easily 2 or 3 times stronger than ours, hence why it is much more common.

This opens up a whole other can of worms.
What is the micron rating of various filters and when will they bypass.
You have absolutely no way of knowing, although I can guarantee that at 0°F using 50wt oil, at cold startup, the filter will bypass until the engine comes up to temp. Something you really don't want. Delicate balancing act.
For some reason, the micron spec is not commonly advertised.
Too big and doesn't filter adequately but flows well and to fine and filters almost anything but goes over relief a lot, can't handle the flow.

So, personally, I use the OEM filter, can't beat the dealer price, if I remember correctly it's less than 3 bucks, has strong media that doesn't collapse, and I'm guessing has the appropriate micron rating.
One can always change just the filter to extend oil changes a bit.

I too gave up on Fram decades ago, but their racing line supposedly is up to par, others can test it.:wink2:
 
2016 runner here
Ive been running mobile 1 0w-30 and 5w-30 during summer months only, rest of the year is 0w-20... driving an equal mix of city and interstate speeds

I switch between toyota filter and wix (which is found locally), I swapped the plastic filter canister for the metal version ...dealer tightened the plastic one so tight I had to break it to get it off ( I also raised hell with them and got a loaner vehicle while I waited for the part to come in)...they also installed the skid plate bolts with an impact wrench and stripped the bolts
 
Fram has a technical information bulletin on collapsed oil filters https://www.fram.com/media/1084/collapsedcentertubes.pdf I'm also wondering if one of the end o-rings from an Amsoil or TRD filter came off, remained stuck and caused the Fram filter to buckle during installation. After several Google searches and looking at photos of deformed oil filter cartridges, I think this Fram filter is twisted, not collapsed. The first image appears to show twist. Do you have a micrometer to measure this Fram filter height and compare it with a new OEM filter? As I recall, the center metal tube is spring loaded, so it should accommodate small variations in cartridge height. Do you have the metal oil filter cap? If so, did you install the longer center tube and is it free to move slightly? I have doubts about oil weight causing this. I suggest sending the photos to Fram and asking them what happened. FRAM Customer Service Phone Number (800) 890-2075, Email, Help Center

No I didn't take any measurements of the oil filter and I'm still running the plastic housing. I guess looking at it as the "glass half full" I'm glad it didn't come apart. My main disappointment is the Fram box showed a wire backing to support the filter media but its just a marketing scam.
I'm currently running the Amsoil and the construction is fantastic; I'll repot back on it.
 
2016 runner here
Ive been running mobile 1 0w-30 and 5w-30 during summer months only, rest of the year is 0w-20... driving an equal mix of city and interstate speeds

I switch between toyota filter and wix (which is found locally), I swapped the plastic filter canister for the metal version ...dealer tightened the plastic one so tight I had to break it to get it off ( I also raised hell with them and got a loaner vehicle while I waited for the part to come in)...they also installed the skid plate bolts with an impact wrench and stripped the bolts

Yes Sir, that 5w30 in summer is "Butter Smooth"! I'm currently running a 10w30 and the engine sounds and feels really good.
 

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