5th Gen Spark Plugs- Photo Tutorial. So easy a 6 yr old girl can do it...

I’m not sure what this has to do with our plugs that are still specified as:
‘10-‘13 SK20HR11 Part Number: 9091901191
‘13-up SK16HR11 Part Number: 9091901233
 
Thanks. 13 foot-lbs is the same torque value as for the 4 Iridium/Ruthinium spark plugs in the FB25 engine in my wife's 2013 Subaru Outback.
 
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Thanks again to Antman and renau001 for the tutorial.

2013 SR5 @ 125k. When I pulled the old plugs, the passenger side plug threads had just the standard light crud on them, but driver side had oil on the threads. Worth any significant concern? No noticeable engine issues.
 

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Worked like a charm for me a couple of weeks ago with 120K on the engine. 5 of the plugs were really tight and I was concerned that the plugs were going to snap. Once they started to move just a small amount counter-clockwise with a breaker bar, I worked them clockwise and counter-clockwise until they were all out. The last plug on the right side near the firewall was the easiest to remove. I almost thought I didn't have the socket on it as it came right out.

I checked all of the original plugs and the gaps were still in OEM range. These iridium plugs are amazing. Put new ones in with some anti-seize and torqued them done.
 
Thanks again to Antman and renau001 for the tutorial.

2013 SR5 @ 125k. When I pulled the old plugs, the passenger side plug threads had just the standard light crud on them, but driver side had oil on the threads. Worth any significant concern? No noticeable engine issues.


Number the ones you removed and store them in the boxes the new ones came in. Compare at next change.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Just finished, made a noticeable difference in power at 140k miles, changed for first time lol.

Pro tip: use needle nose pliers to remove the electric connectors. You can press down on the tab while pulling. Makes it so easy.

Also you can remove a bracket for the driver's side rear to make things easier. Remove bottom bolt, loosen the top and it'll swing out of the way.
 
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I’m not sure what this has to do with our plugs that are still specified as:
‘10-‘13 SK20HR11 Part Number: 9091901191
‘13-up SK16HR11 Part Number: 9091901233

10-13 T4R was without air injection pump. 13-up added air injection pump.
 
Interesting the talk about the knockoffs. I have seen the car care nut video many times that is referenced in a prior post.

Long story short, I did my plugs a few years ago around 90-100k and decided to do them again at 182k now because it will likely be the last time I ever do them in this vehicle.

I checked the new Denso plugs carefully. Yeah, they are real.

Taking the old ones out was interesting. In over 25 years of wrenching on trucks, cars, boats, motorcycles and atv's, PWC's, lawn implements, etc., I have NEVER had a set of plugs fight me on the way out like these did. I had to switch to my 1/2" drive for a few because the 3/8 was bruising my hand. And of course had to be very careful not to apply any radial pressure, only torsional. Engine was stone cold of course.

Now I put these in myself a few years ago and I knew they weren't overtightened or cross threaded.

Eventually I got all 6 out and starting looking at them closely. Yep, the ones I put in the first time were fakes. Back when I did them I didn't even know that was a thing. They did work ok for the time they were in but that could have been really bad.

So be careful what you buy out there. Spend the extra couple bucks and also verify personally because one of those snapping would have cost me countless dollars and/or time more than a simple plug change.

Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
 
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Interesting the talk about the knockoffs. I have seen the car care nut video many times that is referenced in a prior post.

Long story short, I did my plugs a few years ago around 90-100k and decided to do them again at 182k now because it will likely be the last time I ever do them in this vehicle.

I checked the new Denso plugs carefully. Yeah, they are real.

Taking the old ones out was interesting. In over 25 years of wrenching on trucks, cars, boats, motorcycles and atv's, PWC's, lawn implements, etc., I have NEVER had a set of plugs fight me on the way out like these did. I had to switch to my 1/2" drive for a few because the 3/8 was bruising my hand. And of course had to be very careful not to apply any radial pressure, only torsional. Engine was stone cold of course.

Now I put these in myself a few years ago and I knew they weren't overtightened or cross threaded.

Eventually I got all 6 out and starting looking at them closely. Yep, the ones I put in the first time were fakes. Back when I did them I didn't even know that was a thing. They did work ok for the time they were in but that could have been really bad.

So be careful what you buy out there. Spend the extra couple bucks and also verify personally because one of those snapping would have cost me countless dollars and/or time more than a simple plug change.

Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
I ordered the ngk plugs off of Amazon and then called ngk and read them the serial numbers and they said they are counterfeits. They said Amazon does not monitor auto parts so assume most parts are counterfeit etc. I then went to advanced auto and got real plugs. Be careful

Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk
 
Was Amazon the seller? You prefer NGK over Denso the OEM?
I do not recall who the seller was, sorry.
I wanted the ngk because I thought I had read a lot of positive feedback from other 4runner owners etc. However, I was approaching 100K miles and wanted to change them out to new ones. Everything is fine now with the ngk I got from advanced auto

Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk
 
I'm at 153,xxx on my 14 Limited and still on the original plugs. I know I need to do this soon. I bought the plugs a few months ago, just haven't had time yet. Thanks to [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] and [MENTION=135484]renau001[/MENTION] for their posts.
 

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