PitbullRescuer
New member
I got stuck at pulling the bolts for the inspection plate to get to the fly wheel bolts. Haven't had time to get back in there.
5vz-fe Removal
- Thread starter jmt2404
- Start date
The upper driver side bolt was a pita! Ended up using 2 universals to snake around and get it. When I was installing it I found you can reach your arm up and around and get at it from the back, unless you have some Gorilla forearms. Good luck!
agloukhoff
New member
Got my engine out today - frankly armed with 2 universal sockets and wobbly extensions, the bell housing bolts are very easy.
These are the tools I got specifically for the job and they worked out great:
Amazon.com: Ampro A5591 7 Piece 1/2-Inch Drive Flex Impact Socket Set: Home Improvement
Amazon.com: Sunex 2300 1/2-Inch Drive Universal Joint Impact Socket: Home Improvement
Sunex 2504 1/2-Inch Wobble Drive Extensions Impact Set,4 Piece - Amazon.com
The biggest problem I had was getting the engine to separate from the transmission. The input shaft just wouldn't slide out of the clutch. The trans was jacked up and we tried to allow it to match the angle of the raised engine as best as we could, but still getting the two to separate was hard enough to make me uncertain that I'd be able to put them back together.
So - any suggestions on how to deal with the shaft when putting a manual engine back in?
These are the tools I got specifically for the job and they worked out great:
Amazon.com: Ampro A5591 7 Piece 1/2-Inch Drive Flex Impact Socket Set: Home Improvement
Amazon.com: Sunex 2300 1/2-Inch Drive Universal Joint Impact Socket: Home Improvement
Sunex 2504 1/2-Inch Wobble Drive Extensions Impact Set,4 Piece - Amazon.com
The biggest problem I had was getting the engine to separate from the transmission. The input shaft just wouldn't slide out of the clutch. The trans was jacked up and we tried to allow it to match the angle of the raised engine as best as we could, but still getting the two to separate was hard enough to make me uncertain that I'd be able to put them back together.
So - any suggestions on how to deal with the shaft when putting a manual engine back in?
poleclimber63
Member
4RunnerKyle
New member
ncsugrad2006
New member
poleclimber63
Member
agloukhoff
New member
If you are using a JDM engine, are you aware that it's almost certainly NOT from a 4Runner?
You will need to move all the accessory belts and pulleys from your OEM to JDM.
If you have 4WD you will need to swap the OEM oilpan and oil pickup to JDM - as well as relocate the oil filter and the oil cooler. Edit: Also engine mounts will need to be swapped in and exhaust manifold will need to be used from the old engine - so you will need new seals all around for that.
Do you have the timing belt kit? You will need to do that as well.
Also depending on the year of the engine and your 4runner, you may need to keep the old throttle body.
I personally used an old seatbelt attached to the engine mounts to remove the engine.
You will need to move all the accessory belts and pulleys from your OEM to JDM.
If you have 4WD you will need to swap the OEM oilpan and oil pickup to JDM - as well as relocate the oil filter and the oil cooler. Edit: Also engine mounts will need to be swapped in and exhaust manifold will need to be used from the old engine - so you will need new seals all around for that.
Do you have the timing belt kit? You will need to do that as well.
Also depending on the year of the engine and your 4runner, you may need to keep the old throttle body.
I personally used an old seatbelt attached to the engine mounts to remove the engine.
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poleclimber63
Member
right on!
Finally pulled the engine yesterday. Haven't had a chance today to work on swapping parts as my Wife had me doing yard work!!! I will continue during the week.... my engine is from a Grand Hiace (Toyota van) and as you said a bunch of stuff will have to be swapped. I would like to use the newer TB but I have to do some research....
by the way, the wreckers used an old seat belt.... I used chain, from my last engine swap, from years ago!
Link to my job:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/167172-my-engine-swap-progress.html
Finally pulled the engine yesterday. Haven't had a chance today to work on swapping parts as my Wife had me doing yard work!!! I will continue during the week.... my engine is from a Grand Hiace (Toyota van) and as you said a bunch of stuff will have to be swapped. I would like to use the newer TB but I have to do some research....
by the way, the wreckers used an old seat belt.... I used chain, from my last engine swap, from years ago!
Link to my job:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/167172-my-engine-swap-progress.html
BrianSD_42
New member
I should probably add this to the reference guide.
4x4v6Runner
New member
I know this is an old thread but it has been super helpful so far. I am currently in the process of changing my engine for another due to a bad head gasket and happens to have another 5vz-fe handy (so far, all wire harness has been unconnected, radiator removed as well). I'm at the unbolting the transmission from the engine. My question is, do I need to loosen the transmission at all or perhaps the differentials? Or can I simply unbolt the housing bolts? How about the crossbar? Do I need to unbolt the crossbar and remove it? If so, will I need to jack up the trans to support it? According the the FSM, it seems like removing the trans is one of the steps, but from what I gathered from this thread, some of you geniuses did it without even messing with the trans at all. Any help is appreciative. Mine is a 1996 SR5 4wd if it matters. Thanks in advance!
poleclimber63
Member
Leave the tranny, but I made a block that fit between the stablizer bar and tranny housing. With a jack(with plywood), I put a little pressure on the tranny and fitted the block and removed the jack (for working space!). This ensured the tranny stayed in position, making it easier to fit the replacement engine back in. Remove the access plate and remove the flex plate bolts (to torque converter) turning the engine with a breaker bar on the crank bolt(assuming you've removed the rad). I removed the starter at this point. To remove the bell housing bolts I used a wobble socket, recommended by singtoe in this write-up. I used several 1/2" extensions (as per my thread) and to get the top bolts you can reach up over the top of the housing--- believe it, there's lots of room! As I'm not a big guy with gorilla arms, I used a impact driver to get these bolts off. Check out: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/167172-my-engine-swap-progress-2.html entry #17.... good luck!
IMO, to get to the upper bellhousing bolts, you'll have to un-do the transmission crossmember to tilt the engine set. Then once the bolts are out and you undo all necessary pieces, bolt up the cross member and wiggle the engine out. It'll come out with barely any persuasion.
4x4v6Runner
New member
[MENTION=65554]Pol[/MENTION]eclimber 63 So basically, I don't need to take any bolts off from the tranny? I can just access the housing bolts? I know some people said the leave the tranny (with the car) but didn't specify if they loosen any bolts or removed something such as the crossbar which can tranny to drop when I removed the engine. It's my first time working on this type of engine so I just want to be sure I do it correctly. All I ever worked on front wheel drive Hondas. Sorry if my questions aren't very intelligent. Any clarifications and help are appreciative! The block you made, did you use it an in upright position where it touches the ground or not? Thanks.
[MENTION=112993]babowc[/MENTION] sorry didn't see you post. We must be typing at the same time. If I remove the cross bar, will the trans tilt down a little (given the engine mount bolts are still on the engine).
[MENTION=112993]babowc[/MENTION] sorry didn't see you post. We must be typing at the same time. If I remove the cross bar, will the trans tilt down a little (given the engine mount bolts are still on the engine).
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Well, I only unbolted the tranny xmember because it was a pain to get to the top bellhousing bolts. Once those are done, that's it. Just undo your starter, lines, brackets and torque converter bolts (6) and you're ready to pull the engine.
To get your new engine lined up with the tranny, you'll want to undo the tranny xmember. So, you might as well just stick a jackstand under there while you take the engine out.
It's just like pulling any engine. I haven't pulled a FF layout, but the basics are all the same.
Oh btw, if you're 4WD, you'll have a ***** of a time getting to those tq converter bolts. Try to get an air ratchet to make your life easier. I just used ratcheting wrenches and it was a paaaaain.
4x4v6Runner
New member
Yah, I'm only on ratcheting wrenches. I don't have impact tools. And yes mine is a 4wd. I'm sorry, but I also haven't worked on automatic before also lol so I'm not used to seeing how torque converters look like. What torque converter bolts are you referring to? Thanks and sorry again.
Once you look under the truck, you'll see the front diff. Right behind the front diff, you'll see an access plate on the tranny. There should be 4 bolts holding that onto the tranny, undo those and you'll see the starter flywheel (?) and you'll also see a 12 or 14mm bolt. You have to undo 6 of those by spinning the crank with a ratchet.
Good luck, it's not difficult, but the space is very very limited. I contemplated dropping the front diff, but decided that it wasn't worth it.
You'll have plenty of scratches on your forearms!
poleclimber63
Member
Sorry, I have a few more tools than you probably have at your disposal. I used plan old combo wrenches to remove the flex plate bolts. I also had several 1/2" extensions and a wobble socket to remove the bell housing bolts AND an 8 amp electric impact driver... I got it from a big box supplier similar to your Harbour Freight for $80. It's really handy as I use it (and my son's) to rotate my tires! It's in one of my pics....
Just have a GOOD grip on those 8 amp impacts.. they will f-up your wrist if you hold it awkward. I was using a tiny DeWalt impact and I was at such an awkward angle, it made my wrists hurt for a bit (puny wrists, lol).
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