5vz-fe Removal

[19963.4lsr5]

I'm having a issue I haven't resolved yet.........

How in the world do you gain access the the drivers side rear motor mount bolt? Heck I can't even see it. I'll be sad if the steering rack has to come out just to get to that darn nut and bolt.......

Back ground is I have a 96 sr5 auto 4x4 that was hit I. The drivers front wheel. It's totaled (and I finally after two plus years) and found a suitable body in need of a engine and trans to pull it from the 96. All I have left is the motor mount bolt I can't see and the shift and XFR case linkage and the PCM cable above the glove box. I intend to pull engine and trans together.


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[baja1]

I'm having a issue I haven't resolved yet.........

How in the world do you gain access the the drivers side rear motor mount bolt? Heck I can't even see it. I'll be sad if the steering rack has to come out just to get to that darn nut and bolt.......

Back ground is I have a 96 sr5 auto 4x4 that was hit I. The drivers front wheel. It's totaled (and I finally after two plus years) and found a suitable body in need of a engine and trans to pull it from the 96. All I have left is the motor mount bolt I can't see and the shift and XFR case linkage and the PCM cable above the glove box. I intend to pull engine and trans together.


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wait till you have to put it back in.....that was a half a day! :crazy:

 

[TheDurk]

I'm having a issue I haven't resolved yet.........

How in the world do you gain access the the drivers side rear motor mount bolt? Heck I can't even see it. I'll be sad if the steering rack has to come out just to get to that darn nut and bolt.......

Back ground is I have a 96 sr5 auto 4x4 that was hit I. The drivers front wheel. It's totaled (and I finally after two plus years) and found a suitable body in need of a engine and trans to pull it from the 96. All I have left is the motor mount bolt I can't see and the shift and XFR case linkage and the PCM cable above the glove box. I intend to pull engine and trans together.


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Rack stays in. I can't remember how I did it but I'll look tomorrow and hopefully I'll flash on it. Wasn't that bad once I figured it out.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Rack stays in. I can't remember how I did it but I'll look tomorrow and hopefully I'll flash on it. Wasn't that bad once I figured it out.

I start my 5 day 12hr work stretch tonight so nothing is going to happen to it till Monday. I have a iso of the 2002 manual at work. Need to do some digging in there and see what I come up with too.

Thanks.

Edit. The way it was hit may have pushed the frame closer to the exhaust manifold. The upper control arm is bent real good. It may cause a problem............


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[19963.4lsr5]

wait till you have to put it back in.....that was a half a day! :crazy:

I may have 5-6hrs getting to the point I'm at now. Broke off every stud and the bolt on the Crossover pipe bracket for the CAT. I hope the 97's is in better shape or I'll be spending time fixing this 96 crossover flange.


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[zoombyu86]

they aren't as good at doing maintenance in Japan as they are here.-Charlie

Not sure where you heard that from. After having lived in Japan for 3+ years and owning several vehicles there, I've learned that it's a privilege to own a car because everything is so expensive, gas, maintenance, inspections, insurance.

Every two years they do THOROUGH inspections and will make you replace even the slightest things such as dry radiator hoses even though most here would let them go till they burst. This sucked for my Supra. Even the slightest fluid leak, they will fail you on the test so you either have to wash it really dang good or change seals.

So, I would say Americans suck at maintenance because most states don't have inspections like this, not even emissions.

 

[phattyduck]

Not sure where you heard that from. After having lived in Japan for 3+ years and owning several vehicles there, I've learned that it's a privilege to own a car because everything is so expensive, gas, maintenance, inspections, insurance.

Every two years they do THOROUGH inspections and will make you replace even the slightest things such as dry radiator hoses even though most here would let them go till they burst. This sucked for my Supra. Even the slightest fluid leak, they will fail you on the test so you either have to wash it really dang good or change seals.

So, I would say Americans suck at maintenance because most states don't have inspections like this, not even emissions.

The inspection system makes car ownership go two ways - what you experienced (fastidious care of the vehicle) or the opposite... buy new, run until failed inspection and send the vehicle to auction (thus all the "<50k miles!" engines).

I've had good luck with my JDM engines, but I have seen too many problems to say they are all good. You have to know what you are looking for.

-Charlie

 

[TheDurk]

Rack stays in. I can't remember how I did it but I'll look tomorrow and hopefully I'll flash on it. Wasn't that bad once I figured it out.

I think I got to that through the rear portion of the wheel well, and working by feel with a GearWrench and a box wrench. Can't do it from the top and can't do it from the bottom because of the rack.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

I think I got to that through the rear portion of the wheel well, and working by feel with a GearWrench and a box wrench. Can't do it from the top and can't do it from the bottom because of the rack.

Ok. Thanks.


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[19963.4lsr5]

As mentioned in my build repair thread I got the bolt through the inner fender hole. Two wrenches 1/8 turn at a time. And they were rusted enough the 14mm was almost too big. It fit sloppy but didn't slip.

I now must figure out what I want to use for a engine hoist attachment point on the passenger side head.


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[TheDurk]

As mentioned in my build repair thread I got the bolt through the inner fender hole. Two wrenches 1/8 turn at a time. And they were rusted enough the 14mm was almost too big. It fit sloppy but didn't slip.

I now must figure out what I want to use for a engine hoist attachment point on the passenger side head.


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Here's what I did. Unused bolt hole...

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Here's what I did. Unused bolt hole...

I was thinking along those lines or using the one pulling chain I have with plates on each end and bolt the plate to the head.

I removed the engine harness from the PCM/ECU and unhooked the trans shift linkage. Need to pull the XFR case shifter cover and remove the shifter from it and sawzaw the front rad support off and it's ready to pull.


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[TheDurk]

http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-02_Repair&Wiring/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/02toyrm/02toypdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/em5vzfe/enguni4w/remo.pdf

The FSM approach is on p. 886. Same bolt hole.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Well, remove trans cross member and assemble the cherry picker and it's time.......to see what I forgot.

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[phattyduck]

You are going to want to remove that 4WD shift lever.

-Charlie

 

[19963.4lsr5]

You are going to want to remove that 4WD shift lever.



-Charlie

Only if I have to. But there is a part of me that's expecting it. 4 bolts..........


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[19963.4lsr5]

You are going to want to remove that 4WD shift lever.



-Charlie

I removed it.

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[pclausen]

If you are using a JDM engine, are you aware that it's almost certainly NOT from a 4Runner?

You will need to move all the accessory belts and pulleys from your OEM to JDM.

If you have 4WD you will need to swap the OEM oilpan and oil pickup to JDM - as well as relocate the oil filter and the oil cooler. Edit: Also engine mounts will need to be swapped in and exhaust manifold will need to be used from the old engine - so you will need new seals all around for that.

Do you have the timing belt kit? You will need to do that as well.

Also depending on the year of the engine and your 4runner, you may need to keep the old throttle body.

I personally used an old seatbelt attached to the engine mounts to remove the engine.

I have a 2002 4WD and will likely be picking up a JDM engine (seems to be about the only option on eBay these days) since the wife overheated the current engine when the radiator started leaking. Can you recommend a suitable gasket kit? All the ones I have looked at include head gaskets, which I certainly don't need.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

It's out. I'll say this though. If the rad support would have not been cut out it would have been tuff pulling the entire engine, trans, and transfer case and one complete unit.

I had only 1 casualty. I forgot to unhook the connector for the front diff 4wd indicator. Oops. Easily fixed if needed. But this entire harness is a spare.

My identical twin brother (Dennis) is in the flannel. Tom is the other guy. Known both them my whole life. [emoji12]


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[scott_morris70]

This thread has been a life saver. about half way through my swap. old engine is out and moving stuff over to new one to install this weekend. a couple of questions though. I am starting with a 97 4 runner with 2 blown head gaskets and 259k miles. I ordered a used engine offline that was supposed to be also out of a 97 4 runner so the swap would be easy, well it arrived and it is apparently out of a newer Tacoma 2wd with around 120k miles or so they say. it is also an egr motor where my 4 runner is not. So i have already swapped out the oil pan and pickup tube, moved the oil cooler over to the new motor, swapping out my water pump to accommodate the oil cooler (its almost brand new also) and new timing belt. how would you deal with the EGR, my thought is move my non EGR intake over and build a block off plate for the exhaust as i really dont want to deal with trying to swap out the exhaust manifolds.. does anyone see a problem with that? any other parts i should swap out?