LittleCaesar
New member
I'd change the rear main seal along with the VC gaskets. If the timing belt has not been touched, change it as well.
Give the freeze plugs a quick glance also.
Give the freeze plugs a quick glance also.
5vz-fe Removal
- Thread starter jmt2404
- Start date
jmt2404
New member
That is some serious carnage that could have been real bad.. Glad to see this write up has come in handy.
I'ld also look at changing the exhaust manifold gaskets as well. Mainly the gaskets between the down pipes and the exhaust manifold coming off the engine. When I did my swap I had an exhaust leak through those gaskets on mine. Good luck!
I'ld also look at changing the exhaust manifold gaskets as well. Mainly the gaskets between the down pipes and the exhaust manifold coming off the engine. When I did my swap I had an exhaust leak through those gaskets on mine. Good luck!
ncsugrad2006
New member
Oops, for some reason I didn't see it to show me notifications when people replied to this thread, so I hadn't checked it until now. I have read several threads where flexplates have went out in the 150-200K mile range. One guy thought his was caused by the starter so he replaced the starter at the same time. I'm honestly not sure what caused mine, I hope it was just wear/tear from age--Guess I will find out. If I had to do it all over again, I think I would have bought a transmission jack and pulled the tranny off instead of pulling the engine out. There's really not a whole lot holding it in besides the bellhousing bolts which I had to take off anyways (can anyone say 6' of extensions and impact swivel sockets?)
Update: Ordered an OEM flexplate and rebuilt torque converter (pilot was broke on mine when the flexplate went, or maybe one caused the other? who knows. Replaced torque converter seal, water pump, valve cover gaskets and I think that's about it. oh, and all of the flexplate to crank and torque converter to flexplate bolts, and loctite'd those bad boys (red on crank, blue on converter)
Current problem: hesitation when trying to accelerate. Here's a YouTube video if it at the bottom of this post. I'm going to stick new plugs/wires on tomorrow or Wednesday and go from there. There are tons of stories on the internet of that fixing hesitation issues. I cleaned the MAF out today, but used brake cleaner which hopefully didn't do more harm than good. CEL was on yesterday but I pulled battery cable today and it hasn't came back yet, and I didn't have any way of pulling the code.
Any other ideas?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mBdhZxDPy9s
Anything that looks like a audio/video offset issue in the video is really probably correct. I'd turn the throttle and it'd just stay there for a second or two then TRY to rev up, poorly & slowly. Flooring it from inside took 4-5 seconds to get up to 3K rpms (might have been faster, took forever though)
Update: Ordered an OEM flexplate and rebuilt torque converter (pilot was broke on mine when the flexplate went, or maybe one caused the other? who knows. Replaced torque converter seal, water pump, valve cover gaskets and I think that's about it. oh, and all of the flexplate to crank and torque converter to flexplate bolts, and loctite'd those bad boys (red on crank, blue on converter)
Current problem: hesitation when trying to accelerate. Here's a YouTube video if it at the bottom of this post. I'm going to stick new plugs/wires on tomorrow or Wednesday and go from there. There are tons of stories on the internet of that fixing hesitation issues. I cleaned the MAF out today, but used brake cleaner which hopefully didn't do more harm than good. CEL was on yesterday but I pulled battery cable today and it hasn't came back yet, and I didn't have any way of pulling the code.
Any other ideas?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mBdhZxDPy9s
Anything that looks like a audio/video offset issue in the video is really probably correct. I'd turn the throttle and it'd just stay there for a second or two then TRY to rev up, poorly & slowly. Flooring it from inside took 4-5 seconds to get up to 3K rpms (might have been faster, took forever though)
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ncsugrad2006
New member
Bought new plugs, wires and plenum gaskets today. I didn't replace them when I took the intake off and they were missing some of the black coating on the metal, so that can't be helping.
Gonna put it all in tomorrow and with any luck it should take care of it. Will check TPS if this doesn't work. And fuel filter after that
Gonna put it all in tomorrow and with any luck it should take care of it. Will check TPS if this doesn't work. And fuel filter after that
ncsugrad2006
New member
Put new plugs, wires and gaskets in this evening. Still hesitated
I decided what the heck, let's drive it anyways. Took it about 10 miles to get gas and it did great. Got back home and now no hesitation, so maybe it just needed to be ran some
Idling a little high, probably it vacuum leak somewhere but I'll figure that out this weekend. Tis fixed in in my mind anyways!
Pics of the plugs below. Believe they were needed.. and two wires fell apart when I pulled them off
I decided what the heck, let's drive it anyways. Took it about 10 miles to get gas and it did great. Got back home and now no hesitation, so maybe it just needed to be ran some
Idling a little high, probably it vacuum leak somewhere but I'll figure that out this weekend. Tis fixed in in my mind anyways!
Pics of the plugs below. Believe they were needed.. and two wires fell apart when I pulled them off
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lcchik
New member
It is late saturday night after spending the day disconnecting the engine on my 2001 SR5 4wd.
Everything is disconnected but we are stuck at our final step...disconnecting the bellhousing from the engine. I have read and reread this thread and am still unclear....how does one get to those bolts? We have plenty of extensions, but still unsure of the access point. Via the wheelwell? Removing the cross bar doesn't seem to allow enough room.
We are resuming the torment tomorrow AM. Thanks in advance for any advice.
Everything is disconnected but we are stuck at our final step...disconnecting the bellhousing from the engine. I have read and reread this thread and am still unclear....how does one get to those bolts? We have plenty of extensions, but still unsure of the access point. Via the wheelwell? Removing the cross bar doesn't seem to allow enough room.
We are resuming the torment tomorrow AM. Thanks in advance for any advice.
ncsugrad2006
New member
Passengers side ones I did all from underneath with a lot of extensions and a universal joint or wobbly sockets. even the highest one you can get to, it's just a biatch to reach them
Drivers side was a combination of through the wheel well and underneath with every wrench and socket/extension/universal joint combo I had. They go back in a lot easier than they come out--just make sure to blue loctite them
PitbullRescuer
New member
This is a great write up. I'll be tackling this job soon as I decided to drop a used motor in my '00 and yank the one I started to do the top end rebuild on out.
For those of you that did this job at home, few questions:
1.) Roughly how long did it take you to pull the motor?
2.) Did you already have an engine crane or did you rent one? If so, where from?
I'm leaving next Saturday to go to OBX for a week with the wifey. (Much needed vacation.) Trying to figure out if I should attempt this before I go or not.
Thanks,
PBR
For those of you that did this job at home, few questions:
1.) Roughly how long did it take you to pull the motor?
2.) Did you already have an engine crane or did you rent one? If so, where from?
I'm leaving next Saturday to go to OBX for a week with the wifey. (Much needed vacation.) Trying to figure out if I should attempt this before I go or not.
Thanks,
PBR
Singtoe
New member
It took me about an hour to pull it, maybe a little more or little less.
I had bought a crane from Harbor Freight for $100 many moons ago.
Mind you that there was no rust or corrosion on any of my bolts. My exhaust manifold bolts were perfect and I left everything on the engine. I unplugged the wire harness from the body, pulled the radiator and I removed my hood.
BTW, I have used the crane countless times and it has paid for itself 10 times over.
I had bought a crane from Harbor Freight for $100 many moons ago.
Mind you that there was no rust or corrosion on any of my bolts. My exhaust manifold bolts were perfect and I left everything on the engine. I unplugged the wire harness from the body, pulled the radiator and I removed my hood.
BTW, I have used the crane countless times and it has paid for itself 10 times over.
PitbullRescuer
New member
I'm so glad you're back! Thanks man. Any tips for getting to the bell housing bolts?
ncsugrad2006
New member
It took me about 1.5 days of work to get it out and about the same putting it back in. I could probably do it in a day if I had to do it again.
Already had a hoist
and got it out in an hour? really?
Singtoe
New member
Yep. The dude that bought my motor was sitting there waiting for me to get out and load it into his 2nd Gen 4runner.
Bell housing bolts. I used a long extenstion with a universal socket. Worked like a champ.
While i was under the 4runner, i removed the wire harness to the transmission and transfer case, torque converter bolts, exhaust manifold bolt and ADD harness.
Bell housing bolts. I used a long extenstion with a universal socket. Worked like a champ.
While i was under the 4runner, i removed the wire harness to the transmission and transfer case, torque converter bolts, exhaust manifold bolt and ADD harness.
ncsugrad2006
New member
I think I wasted a few hours trying to get all the transmission wiring harness connectors off. I finally said screw it and just pulled the intake off and took the whole wiring harness off the engine.
Yeah I ordered some impact swivel sockets after taking it out, just to help putting it back together. Pretty sure I would have saved a few hours if I had had them when it was coming out.
Yeah I ordered some impact swivel sockets after taking it out, just to help putting it back together. Pretty sure I would have saved a few hours if I had had them when it was coming out.
yes this is the only thing i've found on 3.4 engine removal. So im ready to rip mine out, everything's loose but I cant seem to get the tranny to break free. Trying to pull motor and leave tranny, any suggestions? Is the dam thing spot welded in there or what?
Registered to say Awesome thread! Pulled out my tired ol 3.4 and installed a reman from oregon engines last week. Just finished yesterday and she's purring beautifully! This was my first auto engine R+R and this thread, basic hand tools, and an engine lift was all I needed. Took about 5 days because as I was dismantling the old engine I cleaned and repainted everything I could. Also took apart and or cleaned everything (IAC, MAF, TB, etc). Threw in a new radiator, hoses to and from tranny and radiator, starter, T belt, oil and water pump, ALL SEALS, and external tranny cooler. The engine is pretty much brand new and runs great. Idle is a little high around 1300, but I'll put a couple miles on her and see if she settles down.
Greg_Canada
New member
Good job, but why didnt you just disconnect the harness from the ECU and pull it out the firewall? It's a much easier way....
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