19963.4lsr5
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This is a picture of the passenger rear window. What are the black line tracing for? Is it a antenna?
97 Limited Puppy Hauler Build Thread
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Yes, they are the rear antenna, there's a special name, but I forgot what it is. I've been researching this the last few days. If you have a stock radio, it works with the front one to give you better reception. If you have an aftermarket stereo, they probably just left it unplugged behind the HU. There is a write-up or two for combining both antennae together, but there's controversy of if it actually works or not. Basically you just attach a Y connector so both antennae feed into one into the back of the stereo. I'm going to do it myself, just been worrying about other mini-projects.
Great looking pups BTW.
Great looking pups BTW.
19963.4lsr5
New member
Yes, they are the rear antenna, there's a special name, but I forgot what it is. I've been researching this the last few days. If you have a stock radio, it works with the front one to give you better reception. If you have an aftermarket stereo, they probably just left it unplugged behind the HU. There is a write-up or two for combining both antennae together, but there's controversy of if it actually works or not. Basically you just attach a Y connector so both antennae feed into one into the back of the stereo. I'm going to do it myself, just been worrying about other mini-projects.
Great looking pups BTW.
Thanks for the reply. I figured it was something like that. Shame the PO didn't have SAT radio too. It's the stock 3-1 head unit. I want to move the Sirius radio from the jeep to the toy. Or get two receivers with the removable face and that way we can transfer from one to the other. I like the radio. So I'm ok with only one SAT receiver.
19963.4lsr5
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Some random cute puppy pictures
. Does this carpet make my butt look big?
19963.4lsr5
New member
So wife got rear ended last Wednesday. The adjuster gave me a 893 dollar check to replace the rear bumper.
OEM# 5210735071 CR left limited.
OEM# 5210635081 CR right limited
OEM# 5210535130 CR face bar (center section)
What is you all's luck with aftermarket parts like from Sherman?
The dealer prices range from 180-190 for end pieces and 230-270 for the center piece?
OEM# 5210735071 CR left limited.
OEM# 5210635081 CR right limited
OEM# 5210535130 CR face bar (center section)
What is you all's luck with aftermarket parts like from Sherman?
The dealer prices range from 180-190 for end pieces and 230-270 for the center piece?
T4R2014
Elite Member
Skip aftermarket as the fitment is total sh!t. Quality control on aftermarket crap is pathetic compared to OEM.
19963.4lsr5
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Yes I'm leaning towards OEM. Haven't found a single favorable rating on any of them.
19963.4lsr5
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Dealer ship price for end pieces and center section and end piece mounts was 780. I still need the two main mount brackets. They screwed up that part of the order.
19963.4lsr5
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So with the spring thaw and rain I noticed the sunroof gasket was ripped soo replaced the glass with a spare I had with good gasket.
I also put in the new Denso Front O2 sensor. Old was a generic thread on with adapter.
I also put in the new Denso Front O2 sensor. Old was a generic thread on with adapter.
19963.4lsr5
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It is peppier with this new O2 sensor in. I'll see if the wife notices. She was complaining about the lack of power compared to the wrecked 96 with 4.30:1 gears.
19963.4lsr5
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so first highway trip with the peppier O2 sensor (yes wife noticed the extra Zoom to) and instead of 22mpg it was 17mpg.....Is this O2 sensor costing me MPG. It was pretty consistant getting 21-22mpg on the highway.
If a few more Highway trips net the same lower MPG, I will put the other sensor back in and see if it comes back.
If a few more Highway trips net the same lower MPG, I will put the other sensor back in and see if it comes back.
19963.4lsr5
New member
So today I started removing the rear bumper from the wrecked 96. It's in better shape than I thought. I need the mounts for the 97. The rest I'll sell.
The rear hatch looks new on the 96. I can't believe it's condition. It's going on the 97. However it was a big fail popping the Tee stalks out of the head liner in the rear to gain access go the two plugs for the hatch.
Anyone know how the remove those buttons without braking them??????
The rear hatch looks new on the 96. I can't believe it's condition. It's going on the 97. However it was a big fail popping the Tee stalks out of the head liner in the rear to gain access go the two plugs for the hatch.
Anyone know how the remove those buttons without braking them??????
19963.4lsr5
New member
Swapping hatches was a breeze. Totally painless. Need to swap key locks yet.
Tried removing the rear tow hitch assembly. Biggy fail. Only got one bolt out. And for what ever reason the nut was not captured. At least that bolt is near a hole in the frame. If I can't get the hitch off. It looks like the bumper replacement may be painful.
Tried removing the rear tow hitch assembly. Biggy fail. Only got one bolt out. And for what ever reason the nut was not captured. At least that bolt is near a hole in the frame. If I can't get the hitch off. It looks like the bumper replacement may be painful.
19963.4lsr5
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I also watch the trans temp and with the big 4589 the temp hovered around 108-121 with TQ locked. And it got as high as 146 driving in town. Total driving was around 60 miles. 15 highway, 6 city, rest was back country roads.
19963.4lsr5
New member
So, today I finally got around to replacing the rear pumper.
I also removed the rear receiver hitch to make it easier. What a pain. It took over a hour just to get the hitch off. And I broke bolts on the passenger side I didn't want to.
I purchased the OEM bumper sections. And used the bumper mounting hardware from the wrecked 96. (Sand blasted and painted black) between the two vehicles I used the best bolts from both. Some were real bad. I had to hammer a 3/8 12pt socket on the 96's bolts to get some off. And on top of that the captured nut for the "Y" shaped mount on the passenger side came unweeded from the body. So I had to fish out the nut end with a magnet and weld a length of steel on to it to keep it in place and from spinning when it was time to put it back together. (I used a piece of brake line. It's what I could grab quickly).
It looks good. Only thing left hanging is the stupid T stalks used on the limited's mudflaps. The mud flaps are bolted on but I need to come up with the T stalks or plastic inserts for the remaining holes.
I also removed the rear receiver hitch to make it easier. What a pain. It took over a hour just to get the hitch off. And I broke bolts on the passenger side I didn't want to.
I purchased the OEM bumper sections. And used the bumper mounting hardware from the wrecked 96. (Sand blasted and painted black) between the two vehicles I used the best bolts from both. Some were real bad. I had to hammer a 3/8 12pt socket on the 96's bolts to get some off. And on top of that the captured nut for the "Y" shaped mount on the passenger side came unweeded from the body. So I had to fish out the nut end with a magnet and weld a length of steel on to it to keep it in place and from spinning when it was time to put it back together. (I used a piece of brake line. It's what I could grab quickly).
It looks good. Only thing left hanging is the stupid T stalks used on the limited's mudflaps. The mud flaps are bolted on but I need to come up with the T stalks or plastic inserts for the remaining holes.
19963.4lsr5
New member
It's been a while, got it inspected two weeks ago and John and I went over stuff pretty good. The steering rack had a klick sound when moving the drivers wheel, and front brake hoses were starting to crack. So, today I installed the Brake upgrade I got from Kennworth guy south east of me since I needed to do brake hoses it was a good time to just rip everything off and install the larger rotors and calipers I got from him. It went well. Minor grinding and the rim rubbing was eliminated. My rim castings must be slightly different than his identical rims.
I also managed the get the caster adjusters moving and moved the rear adjuster down on both sides. Steering is more stable and tight feeling. Brakes are killer.
Two days ago I installed new NGK EK plugs and cleaned the throttle body. Afterwards it idled high and took almost 30 miles of driving to relearn its idle.
The steering rack is toast. I pulled the boot back on drivers side and wiggled the wheel and the klick noise is the shaft of the rack moving up and down. Another part from the wrecked 1996 living again on the 1997 limited.
I also managed the get the caster adjusters moving and moved the rear adjuster down on both sides. Steering is more stable and tight feeling. Brakes are killer.
Two days ago I installed new NGK EK plugs and cleaned the throttle body. Afterwards it idled high and took almost 30 miles of driving to relearn its idle.
The steering rack is toast. I pulled the boot back on drivers side and wiggled the wheel and the klick noise is the shaft of the rack moving up and down. Another part from the wrecked 1996 living again on the 1997 limited.
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19963.4lsr5
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I am most happy with how it drives with the caster backed off on the rear adjuster on both sides. Steering is tight now not twitchy. And brakes are stellar. It's feeling more like our 96 now driving wise.
19963.4lsr5
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This is the extra grinding for documenting purposes.
SnowLizard
New member
awesome maintenance thread... love that you kept your 96 for parts..
more pic's are always fun. adding OD miles also helps you keep track of when stuff was when and what mile. would be cool thing to note.
more pic's are always fun. adding OD miles also helps you keep track of when stuff was when and what mile. would be cool thing to note.
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