'99 4Runner Limited 2WD - Replacing U-Joints tomorrow - anything else cheap to do too

[CZ Eddie]

I'll be replacing the front & rear U-Joints on my 2WD '99 4Runner Limited tomorrow. This is the one that doesn't have the lube joints on the U-Joints.

Is there anything else that is CHEAP to do that I should go ahead and take care of while I'm under the truck? Such as, less than $40 cheap? I'm a broke mofo right now.


I'm going to go with the Napa "Precision Ujoints".
AFAIK, all I need to do this job is the transmission and rear axle U-Joints. Just the two. I don't need any seals or anything else.

Well, I do need grease (I have some).

This is the two U-Joints I'm getting:

• U-Joint - at Transmission
• Part Number: PUJ 285
• Product Line: Precision Ujoints
• Greasable Super Strength U-Joint

NAPA AUTO PARTS

• U-Joint - at Rear Axle
• Part Number: PUJ 285
• Product Line: Precision Ujoints
• Greasable Super Strength U-Joint

NAPA AUTO PARTS




I don't think I need this third one, do I? It's only for a 4WD?

• U-Joint - Front Driveshaft at Front Axle

NAPA AUTO PARTS

 

[CZ Eddie]

After letting the four flange bolts soak in PB Blaster overnight, removing them was easy. I used a 14mm socket and breaker bar. Also used a pair of 14mm wrenches. One bolt was on top of the propeller shaft and hard to reach. So I just removed two bolts and then started the truck, moved it forward two inches and stopped. Then I had easy access to the other two bolts.
A bit of arm muscle and all four came out fairly easy.

Also, found out there are indeed only two u-joints. The 4x4 has three while the 2wd has two.
Here's a pic of the 2WD diagram.
The U-Joint is referred to as a "spider" in the diagram.

 

[CZ Eddie]

Holy crap, getting the old U-Joints out is a PITA!

My bench vise ended up being just an inch too short.
My hammer/socket was only able to budge one side of one U-Joint. But not enough to get it all the way out. The vice-grip couldn't get it out either.

I've been soaking all eight caps in PB Blaster for the last two days.
Going to give it another go later today.
I took a 4x2 of wood and cut a nice hole into it. Will lay the driveshaft on top and then pound from above and hope the bottom comes out through the hole.

If that doesn't do it, then I'll go to Harbor Freight and get a larger vise.

 

[CZ Eddie]

Okay, the real problem isn't with pounding the u-joints out. It seems the real issue is pulling the exposed caps off.
$#@$#@$%@# stuck on there!

Vice grips = no
Hammer & screwdriver as chisel = no
Butane torch for a couple minutes = no

I'm going to try and hacksaw a divet/cut into the cap and use that as better leverage to chisel the damn caps out.

 

[chadsy]

Eddie, did you ever get this sorted out?

Update us on how it went.

 

[Bama_Runner]

I had to use a small sledge to beat them out. It took a lot of pounding. I laid the drive shaft on the ground and put a 2x4 under it and cut out a 1 1/2" hole in the board so I would have room for the caps to push out. Once I got them to move out as far as they would go I struck the side of the end cap to get them the rest of the way out.

 

[CZ Eddie]

Eddie, did you ever get this sorted out?

Update us on how it went.

It was the biggest PITA job I've ever had to do on any of my dozens of vehicles over the years. I am a true DIY kind of guy but I will NEVER ever do this again. Next time someone else is getting paid $$$ to do it for me.

Gave up on the pry bar, sledge hammer, anvil, vice and all the other tricks. I had to go at this with a freakin angle grinder. And even that was a huge PITA.
F* u-joints. I'm glad some people had it easier than I did. My shit was all welded together and it took over a week of a few hours here and there to complete the job.

I'm still having nightmares about it.

 

[opie74]

Heres a tip for the next guy.

Yes the cups on the toyota shafts are difficult to get out far enough to get a grip with vice grips. So what you do is push each cup out as far as you can, then make sure the cross is seated as deep as you can in one cup and smack the opposite side with a hammer, doesnt need to be hard. But hard enough to make some of the needles come out of place and sit between the end of the cross and the cup. You can then drive that cup the rest of the way out. You should then be able to pull the cross and use a socket and hammer to drive the other cup out. Repeat process.