A-Ha's Build.

I though the fj tcase is VF4B, same one is found in Prado 120 according to this writeup:

Transfer case modification success - PradoPoint - Toyota Prado 4x4 Landcruiser Forum

1. I don't understand where the difference comes from ,because the modification made from that man includes manual centre diff lock, but than he claims that this is an AWD transfer case impossible to work as a 2WD, which seems to be possible according to what you did.

2. Instead of using ADD front axle, what will be the success of using manual hubs to prevent the spinning of the front drive shaft and CV joints?

Thank you for your help, I make a research about using Toyota transmission and tcase for a project machine, and all the info about that is helpful for me.

Fj cruiser has VF2A, the thread you linked agrees with this in the 5th paragraph 2nd sentence.

I’ll say type it again..There is no “center diff locker” in a VF2A transfer case(fj cruiser tcase)

I’m not going to discuss manual locking hubs.

Drove accross Charlotte last night, 70mph sustained for 45minuted to an hour. No gear oil leaks, no issues.

Even If I break the fj tcase it’s only 250 for a replacement and I could probably easily just replace the chain if that failed.
 
Fj cruiser has VF2A.

Now I understand where my misunderstanding comes from. I was thinking all the time about VF4B t-case.

So most likely for my project I will need VF4A or JF3A tcases. They both have 2wd option, CDL Torsen. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with me.
 
[MENTION=65653]aha2988[/MENTION] did you end up installing a regulator on your air locker lines? I know you said at one point you had oil in the air lines and was looking at a regulator to cut the pressure down some. I'm looking to get ARB air lockers front/rear on mine and wondered if you had any tips.
 
sick truck, for sure.

the locker work is impressive and tcase etc. and i know how much better they perform with them. im kind of surprised people go through with all of it vs the CDL and atrac abilities because i was reading comments on the new Jeep truck
with solid axles and people got into a discussion about how IFS with lockers are just ticking time bombs for break CV shafts etc. they said tight maneuvering on IFS with lockers is easy to break them. do you think that was just jeep people all butt hurt about IFS or?
 
sick truck, for sure.

the locker work is impressive and tcase etc. and i know how much better they perform with them. im kind of surprised people go through with all of it vs the CDL and atrac abilities because i was reading comments on the new Jeep truck
with solid axles and people got into a discussion about how IFS with lockers are just ticking time bombs for break CV shafts etc. they said tight maneuvering on IFS with lockers is easy to break them. do you think that was just jeep people all butt hurt about IFS or?

Here are my thoughts on that.

People have wheeled IFS Toyotas with 35's and lockers successfully with OEM CV's and differentials. I don't know if Jeeps can say that with some of their models. If you want 37's or 40's on your Toyota you'll need to spend quite a bit to make everything bulletproof, but so will Jeeps, they'll need a D60 in the front and D60/D70 in the rear which aren't cheap.

Now with the newer front long travel kits (Marlin) and RCV CV's we should be good up to 40's.

Plus you can't/shouldn't do any tight maneuvering with the front/rear locked anyway.

IFS is more rounded capability wise, but SAS will still be king in the rocks due to how it articulates (not necessarily its wheel travel).
 
[MENTION=65653]aha2988[/MENTION] did you end up installing a regulator on your air locker lines? I know you said at one point you had oil in the air lines and was looking at a regulator to cut the pressure down some. I'm looking to get ARB air lockers front/rear on mine and wondered if you had any tips.

I did, just picked up a cheap kobalt regulator and some fittings at lowes. runs great at 30-40psi. no more air pressure oil pump.


If I had it to do over again I don't know that I would use the ARB compressor. Its major benefit is the wiring harness that sets everything up but I think you could put together a better product for the same cost and a little ingenuity.
 
sick truck, for sure.

the locker work is impressive and tcase etc. and i know how much better they perform with them. im kind of surprised people go through with all of it vs the CDL and atrac abilities because i was reading comments on the new Jeep truck
with solid axles and people got into a discussion about how IFS with lockers are just ticking time bombs for break CV shafts etc. they said tight maneuvering on IFS with lockers is easy to break them. do you think that was just jeep people all butt hurt about IFS or?

Thanks for the truck love,

ATRAC software wasn't really perfected on the 2003 models and im not sure if its much better these days either. More often it cuts off my throttle and prevents me from getting through an obstacle. limited flex from factory IFS makes the lockers more of a requirement when picking up wheels teetering over obstacles etc. The manual transfer case was $400 including twin sticks compared to a $900 electric actuator replacement for the one on my factory tcase that had fail.

Tight maneuvering with any drivetrain with a front locker will break parts. axle shafts snap just like CV shafts specially factory dana 30s and 35s. Lets not forget about those front U-joints on jeep steering knuckles either. I can't say Jeep people are butt hurt about IFS. I think jeep owners prefer the front axle and thats why they purchase that option. They both have there shinning moments and benefits over the other.
 
I did, just picked up a cheap kobalt regulator and some fittings at lowes. runs great at 30-40psi. no more air pressure oil pump.


If I had it to do over again I don't know that I would use the ARB compressor. Its major benefit is the wiring harness that sets everything up but I think you could put together a better product for the same cost and a little ingenuity.

I already have the ARB twin compressor from a group buy. Plus they make a nice harness for my Switch Pro panel. It'll be connected to a 1 gal. tank which will then feed a regulator, manifold, and air locker solenoids. Full pressure for airing up tires and 30-40 psi for the lockers. Sounds good.
 
I already have the ARB twin compressor from a group buy. Plus they make a nice harness for my Switch Pro panel. It'll be connected to a 1 gal. tank which will then feed a regulator, manifold, and air locker solenoids. Full pressure for airing up tires and 30-40 psi for the lockers. Sounds good.

Right on, the only complaints I have is the comressor leaks down on its own right out of the box and its loud. other than that it does the job.

where did you decide to mount it?
 
Right on, the only complaints I have is the comressor leaks down on its own right out of the box and its loud. other than that it does the job.

where did you decide to mount it?

I have a stupid cargo drawer system I made out of plywood. The right side has a wide drawer and the left a narrow drawer 12" wide which I've removed so plenty of room back there in that cubby hole for the compressor, tank, and things. I will probably make a plywood platform to mount everything to and slide it back there and anchor it in. Maybe even completely enclose it for noise.

Hasn't been done yet though.
 
I have a stupid cargo drawer system I made out of plywood. The right side has a wide drawer and the left a narrow drawer 12" wide which I've removed so plenty of room back there in that cubby hole for the compressor, tank, and things. I will probably make a plywood platform to mount everything to and slide it back there and anchor it in. Maybe even completely enclose it for noise.

Hasn't been done yet though.

gotcha yeah, I went with cargo area to. didn't want to mess with shoehorning it into the engine bay. I think about moving it and then I drink a beer.
 
Sad Update to end this build thread. At least from my updates.

Sold her over the weekend to a new 4runner owner. There were so many things I wanted to do and have done that I was never going to get to. Watching it fade away in the driveway only made it worse to think about. Cheers to the new memories it will create with its new owner. 9 years of love and not one regret of ownership would do it all again in a heartbeat.
 
Well I finally got a free night to sit back and compile all my 4runner mod's, Photo's, a video or two, and just some of my personal experiences with my truck. So here goes nothin lol to anyone interested.....

Interior mods/additions:
-Weather tech front and rear digital fit floor liners
-Kennwood DDX419 HU w/ 250watt JL amp & 10" port/slotted JL sub woofer
-ARB twin on board air compressor
-AC 115V switch moved to center console
-ARB compressor and locker solenoid switches left of steering wheel.
-t4r LED gauge swap (by Alex)

Exterior mods/additions:
-Oakley emblems on limited roof rack
-window vent visors
-blacked out grill w/ std. chrome emblems
-weather tech bug shield
-weather tech sunroof visor
-depo black bezel headlights & tail lights
-JRU (jeep recovery unit) sticker :biggrin2:
-TJM stealth 9000lb winch


Suspension/ wheels mods/additions:
-Radflo 2.5 extended travel 650lb spring adjustable coilovers
-Overland warehouse 2.5 rear extended travel kit (minus coils)
-All pro 3.5in lift rear springs (with 1.5 inch daystar rear spacer on driver side coil, driver lean eliminated)
-restuded front hub (1/4" longer studs for 1/4" wheel spacer)
-1/4" wheel spacer plate (to remove wheel/brake caliper interference)
-Black rock D-window 16"x8" rims with 4.25 BS (wheel back spacing + 1/4" wheel spacers equals 1" wheel spacer on stock wheels)
-Mickey Thompson MTZ's 305/70/R16 tires
-SPC performance LR UCA's caster set at -3 degrees
-front sway bar removed
-Medic extended rear sway bar links (from toyota120)
-Roger brown 1.25 inch body lift
-body mount chop


Armor:
-4xinnovations 66" DOM upgrade w/ kick out sliders (custom plated BY me)
-Bay Area Metal Fabrication LCA skid plates
-Bud built diff skid
-CBI front bumper
-....needs more....

Engine/ drive train additions/mods:
-VSC system cut off
-internal snorkel mod
-k&n air filter (factory box)
-HFC delete
-Resonator Delete
-toyteclift diff-drop kit
-4.56 gear ring an pinion front an rear
-ARB front/rear air locker(s)!
-Fj Tcase w/ Frontrange offroad twin sticks



These first shots were the earliest photo's i could drag up. These shots were taken after i replaced the radial tires with cooper A/T's and installed the front bug sheild, as well as liners. So not fresh from the lot but as close as i could get lol.
View attachment 65342 View attachment 65343
View attachment 65341 View attachment 65344
View attachment 65345 View attachment 65346

This is how she sits now:
View attachment 94951[/QUOTE

Looks awesome
 
Maybe I missed it, what are you planning to replace it with? what was your reason for selling?

no current plans to replace. I haven't been on a wheeling trip in probably two years now. when I have gone out i've taken my 4wheeler. Watching my work dry rot in the sun and rust away without use was more painful than selling it

I'll get back into a 4runner if I can't shake the itch.
 
Dang Austin thought you were just kidding.
All right so times to move on. Still have the D60’s ?
We can catch up and fish sometime still and if you ever want to hop in for a trail ride I’m down ! Ha


Bobby
 
Dang Austin thought you were just kidding.
All right so times to move on. Still have the D60’s ?
We can catch up and fish sometime still and if you ever want to hop in for a trail ride I’m down ! Ha


Bobby

nah I sold the D60's back in the spring when I started thinking about selling the 4runner.

thanks man I'm down for a ride, someones gotta teach you guys how to drive faster off-road :cheer2: If this cooler weather hangs around I'll plan a fishing trip with the boat, its been to hot to even think about fishing.
 
I know you've sold your truck, but I had a question about your FJ cruiser transfer case swap. On RockSolidToys I saw that they highly recommend purchasing and using a front differential out of a FJ or Tacoma, that has the ADD.

I didn't see anywhere in your build that you purchased this or trimmed your oil pan to compensate for this diff. Did you run into issues not running this recommended differential?
 

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