gamefreakgc
Elite Member
I took a dremmel knock-off, cut a groove across the top of the screw head (not so deep to make the head fall off though) and then got them out with a large flat head screwdriver. The phillips heads strip all the time.
A-Pillar grab handle bolts.
- Thread starter dustxking
- Start date
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Replace them with a hex screw like this, they sell the correct size at Home Depot (this is not the correct size, just showing the kind to get):
mtbtim
Elite Member
In the video below, we show how to got those F@ckers out with an Impact Driver. I also had to do this when I installed my trans temp gauge on the a-pillar.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/MVJW0XM2x24" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/MVJW0XM2x24" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>
CajunRunner
Member
Impact screwdriver...genius. 10 years ago I removed these stubborn bolts and used it as an excuse to buy a die grinder to remove the bolt heads after I stripped them with a normal screwdriver. I like this impact screwdriver idea much better.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
mtbtim
Elite Member
Alright! I think I found a new tool to buy.
AntleredRuin
New member
https://www.harborfreight.com/18-volt-14-in-cordless-impact-driver-62874.html
This right here.
It will fit with a short enough bit and the steering wheel tilted down. I just used a cheap Philips bit that fit well enough and had no issues. I had even partial stripped the screw using a plain screwdriver at first, and it still worked great. Just make sure to apply steady pressure.
Everyone should have an impact driver in their arsenal and this is a very good starter tool. I put up a fence with it, and the only issue was the cheap Nicad batteries that lose power as they die. Who cares, a new battery is $12 from HF so you can keep a fresh one charged at all times.
I've since upgraded to the Milwaukee M12 lineup, and that mini 12v impact driver works amazingly, especially in tight confines in the engine bay.
This right here.
It will fit with a short enough bit and the steering wheel tilted down. I just used a cheap Philips bit that fit well enough and had no issues. I had even partial stripped the screw using a plain screwdriver at first, and it still worked great. Just make sure to apply steady pressure.
Everyone should have an impact driver in their arsenal and this is a very good starter tool. I put up a fence with it, and the only issue was the cheap Nicad batteries that lose power as they die. Who cares, a new battery is $12 from HF so you can keep a fresh one charged at all times.
I've since upgraded to the Milwaukee M12 lineup, and that mini 12v impact driver works amazingly, especially in tight confines in the engine bay.
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GPsevinSixx
New member
Heat them up with a high power soldering iron. Just make sure to stop when the plastic seems to be getting too hot or starts to melt. Direct heat contact and heat transfer with the tip of a soldering iron will break the threadlocker down.
JZiggy
Senior Member
As you said, be cautious about heating the plastic. The handles are PVC so if you burned it the fumes would be nasty (think chlorine gas).
Regarding the Irwin Power-Grips: I just remembered that when I used them, I had to use a hammer to get the "spiral flutes" to bite into the smooth surface of the bolt head. The metal was hard and just pushing with the tool in the impact driver wasn't enough for it to grab. Once a little pounding with the hammer created a few notches in the metal, the impact driver easily locked onto those and pulled the bolt right out.
SilverRidgeRunner1
Member
Oddly enough I ended up using a Bolt from 2006 Highlander skid plate to replace mine with 
just happened to have box full of them
just happened to have box full of themSpecs
If anyone else finds this thread looking for the bolt specs, they are:
Diameter: M6
Thread Size: 1.0
Length: 20mm
I am replacing mine with Hex heads instead of the JIS-driver phillips they had in there. I'm not sure the locktite is necessary, I'm going to go without it for now, if it's a problem I can add it later.
If anyone else finds this thread looking for the bolt specs, they are:
Diameter: M6
Thread Size: 1.0
Length: 20mm
I am replacing mine with Hex heads instead of the JIS-driver phillips they had in there. I'm not sure the locktite is necessary, I'm going to go without it for now, if it's a problem I can add it later.
msh03046
New member
I know this thread is a few months old, but I wanted to chime in with just a less learned. IF the reason to remove these trim pieces is for getting the headliner off and on it is possible to do that while leaving the A pillar trim in place. I've done it on two different 3rd gens, and it is actually possible to remove / reinstall the headliner with the trim still in place. In fact it helps with the headliner reinstall if you're flying solo because the trim will provide a second set of hands for the forward portion of the headliner until you can get the clips back in place in the rear.
If you need to remove the trim pieces for some other purpose, than disregard my post
If you need to remove the trim pieces for some other purpose, than disregard my post
Doc2012
Senior Member
1/8” drill bit and an easy out.
If you’ve only stripped all the heads; get a JIS bit.
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96RedRunner
Senior Member
@nobb, I used a 1/4" drill bit to drill through head of screw separating head from threaded part of screw. Once handle is out of way you can grab what's left with vice grips. JIS bit or screwdriver makes life easy on these.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
I took a dremel and made a long slice across the head. I then put the biggest flathead screwdriver I had in the groove and it came out.
I didn't know they made JIS driver bits! Do you remember where you got them?
