Advice for wiring a warn quick connect winch harness

[tnine]

Hey guys,
Since I can't find any bumpers I'm happy with for a 2014 4Runner yet, I've decided to just use a hitch mounted winch. I've attached my front hitch receiver, and I'm running both the front and rear power quick connectors through this switching system.

Warn Industries - Electrical Accessories for Jeep, Truck & SUV Winches: Power Interrupt Kit

With this dash switch

12 Volt 3amp ON-OFF Toyota OEM Replacement Push Switch with LED green red lights -Air On Board

The wiring of the power and the switch itself is straight forward. However, I've never wired an aftermarket switch like this into my system. I've searched a bit, but everyone does it differently. I'd like some guidance on the following.

1) Where I can put the switch wire through the firewall without creating another hole (if possible)?

2) Where should I mount high amperage switch? I want to put it someplace safe away from heat. I was initially thinking of bolting it into the existing fuse box mount, but not sure if that will cause any issues since it's a high current system.

Thanks!
Todd

 

[MudPie]

This is where I mounted mine. IIRC, there was already one threaded hole and I drilled the other. It's a tight fit but it works.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/members/mudpie-albums-cooper+bussmann+-+aob-picture39102-winch-warn-power-interrupt-yellow-wire-cooper-bussman.html

Also, if you look a few inches up from where the stock wiring passes through the firewall you should see a black rubber cap about the size of a dime. It drops in behind the emergency brake pedal.

 

[tnine]

Awesome photos. That's really helpful. I'll follow your location as a model and let you know how it goes.


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[rigtec]

Hey guys,
Since I can't find any bumpers I'm happy with for a 2014 4Runner yet, I've decided to just use a hitch mounted winch. I've attached my front hitch receiver, and I'm running both the front and rear power quick connectors through this switching system.

Warn Industries - Electrical Accessories for Jeep, Truck & SUV Winches: Power Interrupt Kit

With this dash switch

12 Volt 3amp ON-OFF Toyota OEM Replacement Push Switch with LED green red lights -Air On Board

The wiring of the power and the switch itself is straight forward. However, I've never wired an aftermarket switch like this into my system. I've searched a bit, but everyone does it differently. I'd like some guidance on the following.

1) Where I can put the switch wire through the firewall without creating another hole (if possible)?

2) Where should I mount high amperage switch? I want to put it someplace safe away from heat. I was initially thinking of bolting it into the existing fuse box mount, but not sure if that will cause any issues since it's a high current system.

Thanks!
Todd

Hi Todd,

As far as the In-dash switch goes, you can just install it into one of the spare blank-off knock-outs in the 'Lower air-bag Knee bolster panel'. You can very easily pull switch wires through the rather large rubber grommet where you see the main power lines go through near the steering column. I didn't see an IN-LINE FUSE in the photo above; just be sure to add a properly sized fuse to your POS main winch cable within 8 inches from the battery and I think you'll be fine!

Just use small box cutter or scratch all to start the hole, then insulate your new switch wiring with some 3/8's plastic split loom from auto-Zone (10' of it will be more than enough) and pull it through. After that's done, you may want to seal the newly cut hole with some clear silicone. The solenoid you have pictured above is make to be installed under the hood so there's no problem there!

 

[tnine]

Ok, so far so good. I have the solenoid mounted and the wiring harnesses connected.

I'm in the process of wiring the switch, however it's not clear to me which power supply to use for the switched side of the ignition.

I want to switch to only function when the key is in the on position. Any pictures of where I can connect it under the dash?

Is that red wire the one I need to splice?

Thanks in advance guys!
Todd


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[Okki]

Sounds like your easiest option is to use an add-a-cicuit on the accessory fuse under the left driverside fuse panel. That way it's accessory switched and requires no splicing

Okki

 

[tnine]

[MENTION=133864]MudPie[/MENTION]. I have everything wired and it works! Unfortunately, my rear cable line needs some placement work. It sits between my sliders and the frame down the driver's side. However, I think I'll need to remove the skid plates and run it under the plates near the front and rear tires. I don't want to put it too close to the exhaust near the front, since that will have quite a bit of heat. Does anyone have any photos of how they've run their rear wiring harness?

 

[MudPie]

[MENTION=133864]MudPie[/MENTION]. I have everything wired and it works! Unfortunately, my rear cable line needs some placement work. It sits between my sliders and the frame down the driver's side. However, I think I'll need to remove the skid plates and run it under the plates near the front and rear tires. I don't want to put it too close to the exhaust near the front, since that will have quite a bit of heat. Does anyone have any photos of how they've run their rear wiring harness?

Sorry, I didn't run anything to the rear so I don't have any suggestions.

 

[tnine]

[MENTION=55815]Okki[/MENTION] do you have a picture or a diagram for that? That's what I'd prefer so it's on it's own fuse and won't have any side effects on other components.


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[cutty01]

[MENTION=55815]Okki[/MENTION] do you have a picture or a diagram for that? That's what I'd prefer so it's on it's own fuse and won't have any side effects on other components.


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He is referring to this...

You can buy from Amazon or local auto parts store. Plug this device into an open slot in your interior fuse box that is hot when ignition is turned on. Then connect a wire from the device to the prong on your switch that is labeled as (2) on the diagram above.