Singtoe
New member
The center copper piece is actually bronze. I removed it to push the hub out and re-installed when the hub was pushed into the new bearing.
I suggest to remove it to prevent it from getting damaged from pressing the hub out.
AISIN Manual locking hubs
- Thread starter Singtoe
- Start date
The center copper piece is actually bronze. I removed it to push the hub out and re-installed when the hub was pushed into the new bearing.
I suggest to remove it to prevent it from getting damaged from pressing the hub out.
4eigner
New member
Ever get that figured out?
4eigner
New member
Secrets of the universe I guess. Are you using a socket against the hub to push on it? I'm finding that a 6-point 36mm socket is about the perfect diameter, but does not quite fit all the way around the brass hub bushing.
As for your mangled hub bushing, here's the only replacement I found without having to purchase a whole new hub: ORS Replacement Hub Bushing - Products - Off Road Solutions
It's also nice that they sell the needle bearings that fit in the hub. Might be a good time to replace those while it's all apart.
4eigner
New member
I wound up leaving that bushing in place. I used a ball joint adapter from a 4wd ball joint service set that just happened to be large enough to fit around the brass bushing, but small enough to sit perfectly atop of the remaining exposed lip/rim of the hub. It looks very much like a large deep well socket, but without any teeth/grooves. It measures 1.75" inner diameter, 2" outer diameter (it's just a hair smaller than 2", but 2 is good enough.)
The kit also supplied a variety of open cylinders, a couple which fit nicely on the hubs to press them back into the setup.
I also used a bearing/seal driver set in conjunction with the ball joint service kit to push the bearings & hubs in and out. A slide hammer with a 3-jaw puller attachment made for a clean removal of the outer hub seal so that I could reuse it.
BTW:
I tried using the craftsman 7ton 2-jaw puller that was recommended in this writeup and had zero luck with it. That was even when using a 24" pry-bar socket wrench and a large bench vise. The stress forces began bending the brackets that held the arms onto the rest of the puller. I spent way too many hours trying to get it setup to work with them, but they were just not up to the task.
After a few months of stepping away from the frustration, I came across a really good deal on a 20-ton shop press and jumped on it. Just on this job alone, it has paid for itself & then some. I couldn't imagine getting those old hubs out with anything less than a 20-ton press.
The Tacoma spindles had Timken wheel bearings that held the hubs in. IIRC, there have been complaints that the Timken bearings were tighter than Koyos and usually break apart when trying to extract them. Not sure if any Tacos ever left the assembly line with them or not.
Additional tools I used for this job:
-20ton shop press (in place of the 7ton 2-jaw puller)
-4wd ball joint service kit
-bearing/seal driver set
-slide hammer with a 3-jaw puller attachment
(I'm pretty sure that the last 3 tools can be rented at many national chain auto part stores.)
Also, if you decide that you want to replace the hub studs, beware of rust & age. I tried backing out the studs using the 2 nuts backed into each other method, but the studs were so tightly stuck in the hub that I wound up stripping the threads on a couple of them in an attempt to keep the nuts on the stud. It turns out that the first few threads going into the hub were rusting onto the threads on the stud. I wound up welding a nut onto the stud in order to get them out. Afterwards, I had to chase every threaded stud hole with a tap (8x1.25) to get them clean enough for a new stud to thread in.
*Special note: A small mound of rust had formed around each stud. I used a chisel and dremel to carefully clean them enough to expose the threads. On one hub I began removing all the studs after squirting a 50/50 mix of acetone & ATF. On the other, I let them soak overnight. This method may have worked since I had a little less trouble getting the studs out of the second hub.
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Chuckles89
New member
[MENTION=96489]4eigner[/MENTION]
Do you have any pictures of how you set up the press? I need to figure this out sometime and don't know how to put the whole spindle in there lol
Do you have any pictures of how you set up the press? I need to figure this out sometime and don't know how to put the whole spindle in there lol
4eigner
New member
I did, but my phone's SD card ate them :mad2:. I might be able to mock up another shot for you in a couple days when I get back to my garage.
infamousRNR
Senior Member
[MENTION=59542]Singtoe[/MENTION]
Do you have to get a whole hub assembly with spindle?
Or can you just swap the locking hub into your existing hub?
I see the benefit to getting extra assemblies so you can press everything and just swap it real quick...
By the way.. How has it been working so far? Any problems? Can ABS still be kept ???
Do you have to get a whole hub assembly with spindle?
Or can you just swap the locking hub into your existing hub?
I see the benefit to getting extra assemblies so you can press everything and just swap it real quick...
By the way.. How has it been working so far? Any problems? Can ABS still be kept ???
Chuckles89
New member
ADD Spindle w/ ABS
A is inner ring
B is middle ring
C is ABS ring
When pressing the spindle out, do I press on the inner ring? And does the middle ring and ABS ring come out first? I've tried pulling them out with a magnet, but have not came off.
Manual Hub Spindle with locknut and spacer removed
D is bronze bushing
E is the wheel bearing
On this one, I will not be removing the wheel bearing; I will just push the spindle out and press it into my ABS spindles with new bearings. Do I need to remove the bronze bushing or do I use the 7 ton puller straight on the bushing. If I do need to remove the bushing, how does it come off.
A is inner ring
B is middle ring
C is ABS ring
When pressing the spindle out, do I press on the inner ring? And does the middle ring and ABS ring come out first? I've tried pulling them out with a magnet, but have not came off.
Manual Hub Spindle with locknut and spacer removed
D is bronze bushing
E is the wheel bearing
On this one, I will not be removing the wheel bearing; I will just push the spindle out and press it into my ABS spindles with new bearings. Do I need to remove the bronze bushing or do I use the 7 ton puller straight on the bushing. If I do need to remove the bushing, how does it come off.
Attachments
4eigner
New member
You don't need the spindle. The whole reason of removing the manual hub from Tacoma spindle to install it onto yours is to retain abs. At the very least from the Tacoma setup you'll need the hub assembly (with brass bushings on either end and inner bearing), brass spanner nut that fits onto the rear of the hub, the manual hub locks, and CV axels (with the locking retaining ring/clip).
4eigner
New member
A is the butt end of the hub. This is what needs to be pressed out.
B & C are held on by nothing but grease. You may have to remove the inner seal to get these out from the back. Otherwise, you could leave them in there when you press the wheel bearing out through the front. These bearings are not reusable as per the FSM. Usually, just by pressing the hub out, the bearing gets damaged (not necessarily visible) and will no longer spin smoothly or with ease. I'd say replace them while it's all apart, otherwise you run the risk of a quick bearing failure when it's all put back together, making that much more work for you.
D doesn't need to be removed. Check out post #166 above.
MStudt
official vendor
I'm stocking up on parts right now for this swap. I plan on keeping ABS, and building these complete off the vehicle with some extra spindles. Then you'll just have to swap the entire spindle over rather that taking your 4runner apart to work on. You'll have to press everything out of your spindles right now if you plan on keeping ABS. If you don't care about ABS you can find the entire spindle with locking hubs from a Tacoma to swap into your 4runner. It's more work to keep the ABS, but IMO it's worth it.
I'm buying just about everything brand new for this. At least that way I'll know everything is new, and should last a long time. The only thing used that I have are the Aisin Hubs, and 4x4 spindles (w/abs). I've got an entire parts list if anybody wants it?
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Singtoe
New member
The only difference on the 4Runner spindle and the taco is that the taco is not drilled for the abs hall sensor.
I squashed my bronze bushing and had to buy a new one. It only takes a few taps with a long drift and they come right out. Better safe than sorry.
My manual hubs work great even to this day even with blown v8 not driving them.
infamousRNR
Senior Member
You blew your V8??!!! When did this happen? I feel like I just reading your V8 swap!
[MENTION=98153]MStudt[/MENTION]
Parts list would be very much appreciated ....
[MENTION=59542]Singtoe[/MENTION] With this said....
Any Tacoma will have the front ABS spindle that is needed to accommodate the ABS sensor that is currently on my 4Runner spindle?????
habanero
Senior Member
Remove the brass bushing or find a way to press around it or...
Just in case....
Off-Road Solutions sells those brass bushings. They also have those little inner hub bearings w/race. Amazon has them w/o race.
ORS Replacement Hub Bushing - Products - Off Road Solutions
Heads up: apparently out of the inner ones currently....says they'll fill order when they get re-stocked.
Just in case....
Off-Road Solutions sells those brass bushings. They also have those little inner hub bearings w/race. Amazon has them w/o race.
ORS Replacement Hub Bushing - Products - Off Road Solutions
Heads up: apparently out of the inner ones currently....says they'll fill order when they get re-stocked.
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4eigner
New member
If you plan on replacing wheel studs, do it while the hub is removed from the spindle. That'll also give you the opportunity to clean the hub pretty well with a wire wheel.
4eigner
New member
Blown is another term for supercharged.
The manual locking hubs came on base option delux models. Your chances of finding them on an abs spindle are pretty slim. But any other Tacoma spindle that has abs should accomodate the abs hall sensor that's in your spindle. But, if you're picking up used assembled abs spindles, there would already be an abs hall sensor installed in them.
habanero
Senior Member
Mine are finished rust, dust and all (kind of an annoying story) but good advice for people who are in the middle of the project.
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