Alpine IVA-W200 double-din -- DIY Install plus tips for all DD HU's

TX4runnerguy

New member
Just installed this thing last weekend. In my years of doing about a dozen or so do-it-yourself car stereo installations, I can say that, by far, this 4Runner was the biggest b!tch of them all... mostly due to having to bypass the JBL system and the fact that I had to damn near take the whole truck apart to do it. If you don't have JBL, then it should be a snap. But, it's done and all is well.

I wanted to assemble a few tips (with pics) I learned into one thread for anyone doing a double-din install in your 2003-up 4Runner. Some info I was able to find by search on this forum, some info I had to look elsewhere and/or call Crutchfield (tech support - a great benefit to have if you buy from Crutchfield... that alone is worth the extra $100 you may spend).

Thanks to MurrayTheCat for info on the brackets and mounting of this unit.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showthread.php?s=&threadid=23041

With the Alpine, and I'm sure with most other HU's, if you follow the standard install, the HU will stick out pretty far past the dash and look nasty. Once you remove the stock HU, you'll retain the factory brackets for your new double-din HU. If you do a slight modification of the factory mounting brackets, you can set it back another 1/2" or so which makes it look a hundred times better. Depending on your HU will depend on which alignment "bumps" you'll need to sand down with your trusty Dremmel tool:

bracket01.jpg


You can see above where I had to sand down two of the bumps, on each bracket, to make it fit into the forward most alignment holes on the Alpine.

Put the brackets where you want on the deck, put the Metra trim brackets on top of the factory ones, then screw it down with the factory bracket screws:

bracket02.jpg


After that, it will look like this:

bracket03.jpg


Once you have it together, wire it up and shove it into the dash. At first, don't tighten the two side mounting bolts yet... you'll want to do a test fit by putting the dash bezel back on over it first. This will give you an idea of position adjustments you'll need to make (most likely rasing the unit up a few millimeters) when bolting it down permanently to make it look right with the dash back together (thanks again, MurrayTheCat, for this tip).

Finished product:

alpine.jpg


I also installed the Sirius Satellite Radio module and the Alpine iPod direct cable.

For the Sirius, I just removed the passenger side floor door jam trim, pulled up the carpet and slid the module under the seat. There's plenty of room for it to fit. Then, ran the wiring back up the channel, behind the glovebox and up to the deck.

sirius.jpg


For the iPod cable, I ran it into the pull-out compartment storage box below the A/C controls, infront of the cupholders. I cut a hole into the back of the compartment and shoved the cable into the box. Now, I can just flip it out and pull up the cable and hook it into my iPod. (sorry, no pic right now)
 
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For the Alpine, I needed to hook in to the emergency brake lead and the foot brake lead.

e-brake = light green, pin 1 of 24 pin harness at bottom left of driver side fuse panel.

foot brake = green/yellow, pin 16 of 16 pin harness at bottom left of driver side fuse panel.

According to Crutchfield and another source, these are the correct wires, however my HU is not unlocking. I'm going to re-check the wiring, but I went ahead and ordered the PAC TR7 so I can do the complete bypass.

brakewires.jpg
 
My source says ...

brake wire = + green/yellow, left of fuses, 16 pin plug

parking brake = - lt. green, BECU, middle plug, pin 2
 
Nice job on the install, it looks great. Glad the bracket mod worked for you too. I think this bracket mod will change peoples feelings toward the W200 in the 4Runner. It makes a huge difference.

As for the HU unlocking, are you doing the brake pedal dance? Engage parking brake, then hold foot brake, while still holding foot break, release the parking break and re-engage it, then release the foot brake. that is what I have to do to unlock the HU.

Which sirius module did you get? I would like to get one and was looking at the SIR-ALP10T. I want one that supports nav traffic and that can be hooked up to my NVE-872 nav.

-Joe
 
Yep, I did the foot brake/parking brake dance a hundred times and still no dice. Now, I'm not an EE, but I did break out the volt meter to measure current and the e-brake wire (lt. green) had current flowing (it was jumping between 0 - 9 volts). If it's suppose to be a negative, then shouldn't it not have any current flowing through it? On the foot brake wire (in the above picture, the yellow wire on the right is spliced into the green/ylw on the 16 pin plug), it never had any current, even when the brake was pushed. But, since the foot brake wire is suppose to be positive, then should it have current flowing through it?

I'm thinking maybe Crutchfield gave me bad info or I've got the wrong wires or something. I did, however, verify that the splices did in fact break through the insulation on the wires to touch metal. The problem solver in me is wanting to dive back into it and figure it out, but since I'm expecing the TR7 in any day now, I'm not too worried about it.

I did have an issue locating the so-called BECU. Is that to the right or left of the steering wheel? There was a big wire/plug junction against the driverside wall under the dash, but it had like 4 rows and 2 columns of plugs. I looked on both of the second plugs from the bottom and saw no lt. green wire.

I went with the SIR-ALP1, the non-navtraffic version. Navtraffic isn't supported in my city, so it's not worth the extra bucks for me.
 
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Well I'm not an EE, but I'm in my 2nd year as an EE major... but you are correct. The parking brake wire should not have anything flowing through it. The easiest way to test the parking brake is by doing a continuity test... basically on your meter it'll be the feature that beeps when you touch the ends together. To test the wire, you will need to some how need to make contact with the wire. You can do this by sticking one lead from the meter into the plug or by stripping back a small part on the wire you are testing and touching your lead there. Touch the other side to ground. With both leads connected, engage the parking brake. If your meter beeps, you've got the right wire. Otherwise you don't. Some meters don't beep, but you can also use a resistance test. Doing the same process as before, when you engage the parking brake your meter should display 0.000 ohms. If that happens, you've got the right wire.

For the actual foot brake wire, you just need to do voltage. One lead to ground the other to the wire you are testing. If you get voltage when you push in the foot brake and no voltage when you release, then you have the right wire.
 
Okay, I finally got it working... turns out, the wires are correct, but my splice wasn't exactly working right. It had exposed the metal in the wire, but somehow it just wasn't making contact. I took it apart and re-did it and it seems to be working fine.

Thanks, Tarheel, for the volt meter advice... it helped me to isolate the issue.
 
Hey, I know this is kind of an old thread but I have misplaced the factory stereo mounting brackets. I was wondering where I could get the part at a fair price or the part number?
 
Old thread, but....


To "bypass" the JBL system, did you just run your speaker wire leads from the HU down to the amp, then connect them with the output speaker leads from the amp? I'm about to add a new HU and would prefer to bypass the JBL system as well.
 

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