Another Bilstein 5100 question

[PCRIDE4RUNNERORG]

This is [MENTION=4880]colo4runner[/MENTION] 4Runner with a 1" rear Cornfed spacers and the front Bilstein 5100's set at 1.75".

What size tires do you have on this? Looks great!

 

[TotalAutomotiveLV]

Does any place sell a complete ready to bolt on kit ?
All 4 Bilstein 5100's with the fronts set at 1.75" and 1" spacers for the rear ?
I don't want to mess with a spring compressor . Just want to bolt everything up .
Thanks in advance .

Bilstein 5100's are designed to work with stock coils and top hats.

Like KP Texan said, re-purposing is simple. Most shops will re-coil for free or lost cost flat fee. If you are planning on doing install yourself.

Complete Kits - Click Here

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[rowdydaoudy]

While I have no personal experience with the FJ kit, it is considered a more premium setup than straight 5100s: new springs, bigger shock bodies, remote reservoir on rear shock, etc. I strongly considered going that route but, in the end, decided against it for the following reasons:

Price - slightly cheaper to go with 5100s, although the FJ kit could be considered a better bargain for what you get. The $200 difference isn’t huge, but it’s still there.

FJ Parts - the parts are different on the FJ kit than the T4R PRO kit. Why is this? The answer is that nobody knows. Springs are different, and all shock numbers are different. If this was an ideal setup for the 4runner, I’d think Toyota would’ve used it. We know Toyota likes to use the same parts across multiple vehicles, so this never sat quite well with me.

Replacements - when you get down to it, both the 5100 and FJ shocks are wear parts. Sometimes they last awhile and sometimes they don’t. When a 5100 goes out, you know you’ll be able to easily find a replacement at a reasonable price. I don’t think this is the case with the FJ shocks, since I’m sure replacements are quite costly and getting your hands on it won’t be as easy. Additionally, the 5100s have a lifetime warranty, whereas the FJ shocks don’t...actually if used on a 4Runner, they probably have no warranty, assuming you’re honest about it.

I wanted about an inch lift on the front so either option would’ve worked for me in that regard, but the 5100 also offers more built in flexibility for lift height.

Either way, I don’t think you can go wrong with the 5100 or the FJ kit. The 5100 just made more sense to me sense to me, and I’ve been very satisfied with their performance so far. Time will tell on durability, but I’m not concerned because they have a good reputation.

Thanks for the input! Very much appreciated. I had a 14 Tundra 1794 and did a 3/1 level kit on it and did not care for the ride. I know it isn't the best approach for a lift, but it put a bad taste in my mouth.

I do primarily city/hw driving and want to put on a set of TRD pro wheels + 275/70's (or 285 if I can fit it). Ideally, I'd like to get rid of the nose dive and less body roll. It's not hateful now, but you definitely feel it.

Overall, it seems to be about $350 in savings for the 5100 kit.

Shop quoted me $400 in labor for all 4 shocks/struts replaced with the rear spacer. Does that sound fair?

 

[Nick B]

Bilstein 5100's are designed to work with stock coils and top hats.

Like KP Texan said, re-purposing is simple. Most shops will re-coil for free or lost cost flat fee. If you are planning on doing install yourself.

Complete Kits - Click Here

_

Thanks . Does that also come with the 1" spacer for the rear ?

 

[CLO T4R]

Bilstein 5100's are designed to work with stock coils and top hats.

Like KP Texan said, re-purposing is simple. Most shops will re-coil for free or lost cost flat fee. If you are planning on doing install yourself.

Complete Kits - Click Here

_

Thanks for this! Ordered my set!

 

[KP Texan]

Thanks for the input! Very much appreciated. I had a 14 Tundra 1794 and did a 3/1 level kit on it and did not care for the ride. I know it isn't the best approach for a lift, but it put a bad taste in my mouth.

I do primarily city/hw driving and want to put on a set of TRD pro wheels + 275/70's (or 285 if I can fit it). Ideally, I'd like to get rid of the nose dive and less body roll. It's not hateful now, but you definitely feel it.

Overall, it seems to be about $350 in savings for the 5100 kit.

Shop quoted me $400 in labor for all 4 shocks/struts replaced with the rear spacer. Does that sound fair?

Ride is really the primary reason I did 5100s and the 1” bump in the front was an extra bonus. I really like how my 4Runner drives now... in fact I ran into town this evening and was thinking to myself about how perfect it felt. I don’t think you’ll ever eliminate nose dive or body roll in the 4Runner but it’s quite a noticeable improvement. The ride is more firm now, but not harsh by any means - like I said, pretty much perfect in my opinion. My wife’s Limited has the X-REAS suspension and, although part of this may be due to its age, I like the feel of my TRD OR w/ 5100s better.

As for the shop cost, it’s not too bad (maybe a bit high?), assuming that includes the alignment. I think I was quoted about $300 but I didn’t have the rear spacer. I think the most important thing is that they know what they’re doing and preferably have experience with Toyotas.

 

[@jrfordlandia]

I've got 5100's on the front, paired with 2" coils from Ironman. You can pair the 5100's with any spring you like, doesn't have to be oem. Doing it this way allows you to have the 5100's set lower than you would with stock, decreasing the compression of the spring and giving better ride quality while not sacrificing any lift height. I work out to be right around 2.5" with near stock ride quality. Anything over 2" you really should consider getting UCA's too. Keeps the alignment proper, although some have managed to get away without.

For the money, its really hard to beat the Bilsteins.

[MENTION=134477]Toyojay[/MENTION], did you put the 2" Ironman coils on all fours? Also, were the new UCAs were needed or did you add any spacers? It sounds like you went for pure shocks, struts and coils solution. I just ordered KO2's and a set of 5100's but I'm still debating on the coil vs spacer solution. Among the hundreds of threads I've read, your setup seems to be a good balance of ride quality, street-ability and of road. I'm trying to reduce the nose dive, go for more aggressive, level-look but don't want to sacrifice ride quality. The wifey drives this rig on road trips, too. I'm also not ready for a full-on $1500 lift solution yet but $500-$700 seems reasonable. Shoot over a part number on the coils if you don't mind.

 

[CLO T4R]

Just installed on 2018 TRD Off Road with KDSS

Just installed the 5100s with the Daystar 1.5" Spacers on a 2018 TRD Off Road with KDSS yesterday and the install was a breeze with major help from a friend, minus the KDSS. Ratchet straps and extra jacks really helped re-aligning the KDSS system back together. Still waiting for the car to settle.

I noticed Daystar sells a 2018 model of the spacers but wanted to confirm that the $40 Daystar 1.5" #KT09127BK does fit the 2018 KDSS model.

 

[@jrfordlandia]

I picked up a pair of Bilstein 5100’s today for the front lift. I’m going to try leveling the front at 1.75” without using rear spacers. There’s exactly a 1.75” rake on the left side but 2.25” on the right side. I’m hoping I don’t get negative rake on the right side without spacers!

 

[@jrfordlandia]

I will be adding a 10mm spacer by OME in the rear here soon.

I think that stance looks good. Do you feel like the front is higher than the rear without spacers? How does it drive without rear spacers?

 

[TEujunga]

I think that stance looks good. Do you feel like the front is higher than the rear without spacers? How does it drive without rear spacers?

The rear fenderwells are slightly taller than the fronts. If you lift only the front so that the fenderwells measure equally, you'll have a negative rake. Measure to the frame rails or the door sills. That's why the Bilsteins set at 1.75" in front plus Cornfed 1" rear spacers is such a popular combo -- it results in close to a level stance.

 

[05_4R]

I just had my Bilstein 5100 assembled by a local shop. Noticed one of them looks crooked between the top cap and the strut itself, is this a problem?

The springs are AC Delco FJ springs with the shocks at their stock setting. Any idea how much front lift I might get from these on a V6 4runner? Various posts have said anywhere from an 1" to 2+ inches"?

 

[Vette Dad]

I have Bilsteins... 2.5 up front and 1.5 in rear. It handles wonderfully. I don't baby my turns while driving on regular pavement either.
Running 285/70/17 Nitto ATs on Method Wheels.

 

[Hikea]

2015 4Runner 3rd row seating. BFG TA KO2 265 70/17.I did a set of Bilstein 5100 set to .85 on the fronts. Rear Stock. I’ve attached the before and after pictures.

 

[KCWiscoRunner]

5100 level

I recently added Billstein 5100's set at 1.75 to level out the front. I have P265/65/R17 tires. I am removing the mud flaps and steps. any idea how much bigger I can go on tires?

 

[LidDoc58]

What would you choose?

Hi all, first time poster, long time forum follower.

Im currently the happy owner of a 2018 MGM TRD offroad. First 10,000mi were great, now looking for slight lift/level and more aggressive tire/wheel setup. It's the daily driver, 20-40 city and highway miles/day. All 4 bilstein 5100's and a new set of SCS ray10's (17x8.5) are sitting in my dining room. Trying to avoid aftermarket UCA, diff drop kits or a massive MPG hit.

Question for this experienced thread:
Option A - 0.85 up front, stock in back with 265/70/17 BFG AT C-load
Option B - 1.75 up front, 1in spacer or Dobinson 599 in back with 275/70/17 BFG E-load
Option C - 1.75 up front, 1 in spacer or Dobinson 599 in back with 285/70/17 BFG C-load

Thanks everyone for all your knowledge and time!

 

[D1105]

Hi all, first time poster, long time forum follower.



Im currently the happy owner of a 2018 MGM TRD offroad. First 10,000mi were great, now looking for slight lift/level and more aggressive tire/wheel setup. It's the daily driver, 20-40 city and highway miles/day. All 4 bilstein 5100's and a new set of SCS ray10's (17x8.5) are sitting in my dining room. Trying to avoid aftermarket UCA, diff drop kits or a massive MPG hit.



Question for this experienced thread:

Option A - 0.85 up front, stock in back with 265/70/17 BFG AT C-load

Option B - 1.75 up front, 1in spacer or Dobinson 599 in back with 275/70/17 BFG E-load

Option C - 1.75 up front, 1 in spacer or Dobinson 599 in back with 285/70/17 BFG C-load



Thanks everyone for all your knowledge and time!

I just ended up going with option B last weekend (currently have 10k miles). I’ve had the 275 ko2 at 5k miles and went with the 1” cornfed spacers in the front first with stock shocks and it was too low with camping gear loaded. I think if I were to go with 285’s, I would go with a bigger lift (at least 2.5) to avoid rubbing (and after market UCA’s for proper allignment). Here's mine with 5100's all around (1.75" F / 1" cornfed rear)....

Here’s one with 285’s at a local dealership that Chitown4x4 lifted with 6112/5160 (2.5” F / 2.0” R OME 2895).

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[SNORunner01]

Hi all, first time poster, long time forum follower.



Im currently the happy owner of a 2018 MGM TRD offroad. First 10,000mi were great, now looking for slight lift/level and more aggressive tire/wheel setup. It's the daily driver, 20-40 city and highway miles/day. All 4 bilstein 5100's and a new set of SCS ray10's (17x8.5) are sitting in my dining room. Trying to avoid aftermarket UCA, diff drop kits or a massive MPG hit.



Question for this experienced thread:

Option A - 0.85 up front, stock in back with 265/70/17 BFG AT C-load

Option B - 1.75 up front, 1in spacer or Dobinson 599 in back with 275/70/17 BFG E-load

Option C - 1.75 up front, 1 in spacer or Dobinson 599 in back with 285/70/17 BFG C-load



Thanks everyone for all your knowledge and time!

I am in the same boat except I have Bilstein 6112/5160 combo. As a daily driver going that many miles per day I would go option A. Leveling out the 4runner with BFG’s on RAY10’s brings you plenty of weekend warrior capabilities. While preserving better gas mileage.

Option B and C mainly only add ground clearance to your functional capability. If you are at this point in time worried about what sliders you are going to get or are considering CBI front and rear bumpers for a better approach angle then options B and C should be considered. Your TRD OR (trail) has KDSS? If so there are other factors coming into play.

I would go option A and add on a TRD pro front valence and TRD pro skid plate... bang got yourself a TRDP with KDSS...

I opted for option D: 2.5 Bilstein 6112 front/ 5160 Bilstein with 2” icon rear springs. But I am going to be adding a rear bumper and full size spare. Good luck post pics!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[tpotnoc]

OME 895E/883 + Bilstein 5100 | GOBI stealth | RCI alum front skid | FN Countersteer X | BFG KO2 265's | AVS hood visor | morimoto 4300k 50w HID + nokya yellow fogs & DRL's

Are you running stock UCA with this setup, and do you have KDSS? Was it a concern with the 883?

 

[LTDBLKTRD]

The right springs with ome trim packers would be best without preloading spacers, especially for those not running trdpro shocks but those with can still get a proper setup without spacers, they will just ruin your investment in a aftermarket suspension system. Most are too worried about the littlest detail of how the rig looks over actual performance, I have been running the hell out of my rig going to my new job site with just front lift springs and the rest is Trd Pro suspension, going from xreas at 120k I wouldn’t be driving the ways I have been pushing my rig, the performance difference is phenomenal. As for braking nose dive you won’t avoid it besides changing the brake bias which would be more dangerous than worth the headache of figuring out through trial and error (could be expensive or life threatening).

The spring size should be adjusted for lift with the perches set at the lowest setting possible to keep the shocks from being overloaded, go with a taller spring basically and lower perch setting to get the best longevity out of the shocks, want a little over a inch lift in the front get a 14” spring, 16” will provide about 3”, this is with the perches at the bottom setting.