I've got 223K on my 99 and yeah the rotors have been wonky for a while. Here in PA with state inspection rules the garage wanted to install new rotors, saying they really shouldn't pass. I said I'd get it done before this year's inspection is due end of March. Does anyone have experience with the Power Stop products? I could go either way 4runner HD setup or Tundra kit. Planning on doing calipers either way. Experiences, opinions....? Sorry if this has been covered, I tried to search "power stop" to no avail.
Another brake thread - Power Stop quality
- Thread starter slayman
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Devbot
New member
Used Power Stop on multiple vehicles and have no complaints. Currently using the Z36 kit all around on my 4Runner for the first time right now (installed a few months back) and I couldn't be happier so far. Brake dust isn't horrible, stopping power is good (i'm running extra weight too), no complaints in the way of noise. All around good deal especially for the price
I.m.o. if you're gonna replace the calipers anyways I'd just go the full nine and do the TBU
I.m.o. if you're gonna replace the calipers anyways I'd just go the full nine and do the TBU
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
If you order from McGeorge Toyota online, OEM rotors are almost the same price as Powerstop.
I have reman'd Powerstop calipers on my 4Runner, but OEM rotors. No issues.
I have reman'd Powerstop calipers on my 4Runner, but OEM rotors. No issues.
Devbot
New member
on that note I believe master cylinders for those Tundras will bolt right up to our booster - pretty sure I recall some people installing one to eliminate spongey pedal feel. Might be worth looking into as well, just do the whole thing from-ears-to-ass
G_Raw
New member
I've been running powerstop tundra brakes for over a year with no issues. I have the cross drilled and slotted rotors for them. I did not change the master cylinder out for the Tundra one but I personally don't think my pedal sinks or feels spongy. I do notice brake dust causing squealing if needing to reverse when it's cold, like down my driveway at 4am during winter.
So now I back up to the house when I park so I don't need to deal with that or wake folks up in the neighborhood.
So now I back up to the house when I park so I don't need to deal with that or wake folks up in the neighborhood.
Nobody Special
New member
PowerStop merely rebrands some/most lines of rotors.
If you had the time, you can search part numbers and see it for yourself.
Rotors for a Land Rover and at least three of my Toyotas had part numbers that would trace back to PowerStop. Brembo, EBC, etc. You just need to figure out how their part numbers are coded which doesn't take long at all. Some you omit letters or a dash or two and you pick up other brands for the same part in searches.
The solid/non-vented LR rotors I picked up under the Raybestos label for $12 a pop.
I can't find the specific PowerStop part number as this was 6+ years ago.
(I don't forget expensive lessons)
If you had the time, you can search part numbers and see it for yourself.
Rotors for a Land Rover and at least three of my Toyotas had part numbers that would trace back to PowerStop. Brembo, EBC, etc. You just need to figure out how their part numbers are coded which doesn't take long at all. Some you omit letters or a dash or two and you pick up other brands for the same part in searches.
The solid/non-vented LR rotors I picked up under the Raybestos label for $12 a pop.
I can't find the specific PowerStop part number as this was 6+ years ago.
(I don't forget expensive lessons)
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T4R2014
Elite Member
I haven't had good luck with Powerstop drilled and slotted with their ceramics. Warped quickly and had no bite. I recommend the EBC kits.
Skip the TBU. Done the 199mm twice. Total waste of time. Nobody really knows if it decreases stopping distance and warpage because they are replacing old ass parts with new Tundra stuff anyway. Just make sure your rear brakes and lubed and adjusted well first.
Skip the TBU. Done the 199mm twice. Total waste of time. Nobody really knows if it decreases stopping distance and warpage because they are replacing old ass parts with new Tundra stuff anyway. Just make sure your rear brakes and lubed and adjusted well first.
I have powerstop, cross drilled and slotted with matching pads and wasn't really that impressed with them, same as OEM toyota stuff but less brake dust. I have since shifted to the Autozone Gold duralast matching rotors and pads. its solid rotors... and truthfully it has more bite and stopping power then the OEM toyota and powerstops... and akebono brake pads too... and no brake dust either....Plus these autozone duralast gold pads are cheaper and have lifetime pads warranty and rotors is 3yr.. so far I have had no brake vibration or rotor warpage and pads last time.
I’ve had good luck with centric, brembo and meyle rotors lately, mostly on my other car that sees occasional race track use. Akebono and brembo organic pads are excellent on a DD.
Don’t bother with anything drilled - cheap drilled rotors will eventually crack along the holes because the holes are drilled after the rotor is cast. Only get the slotted ones for the look if you’re into that, you won’t see any better performance, especially on a truck. Don’t bother with anything selling for bottom dollar on RockAuto either.
Avoiding brake fade is all about thermal mass and cooling. Anything that takes away from the mass of the rotor mean less heat it can absorb under braking - that heat eventually finds its way into your brake fluid. I get this isn’t a racing environment, but the theory still applies.
That said, it really it is a crapshoot finding quality parts nowadays. I’ve ordered a large amount of parts lately and it takes so much time to figure out what’s quality. I’ve sent back a bunch of stuff that either didn’t fit right or was just generally total crap. Everyone’s reboxing everything, which isn’t making it easy.
Don’t bother with anything drilled - cheap drilled rotors will eventually crack along the holes because the holes are drilled after the rotor is cast. Only get the slotted ones for the look if you’re into that, you won’t see any better performance, especially on a truck. Don’t bother with anything selling for bottom dollar on RockAuto either.
Avoiding brake fade is all about thermal mass and cooling. Anything that takes away from the mass of the rotor mean less heat it can absorb under braking - that heat eventually finds its way into your brake fluid. I get this isn’t a racing environment, but the theory still applies.
That said, it really it is a crapshoot finding quality parts nowadays. I’ve ordered a large amount of parts lately and it takes so much time to figure out what’s quality. I’ve sent back a bunch of stuff that either didn’t fit right or was just generally total crap. Everyone’s reboxing everything, which isn’t making it easy.
dogtail
New member
I did a quality TBU with Centric rotors and zinc dipped calipers, very happy with the performance. The stock setup is to prone to rotor pulse. Here's my write up.
TUNDRA BRAKE UPGRADE parts options
TUNDRA BRAKE UPGRADE parts options
Attachments
Update:
Follow up: I did not do the TBU. Why, well, I don't tow much other than an aluminum trailer with yard stuff and perhaps a motorcycle, this is a first time project for me and I didn't feel like getting into caliper replacement. So, I bought an EBC kit from Auto Zone. GD rotors and Greenstuff pads. Installed yesterday with most of the work being done by our do everything shop guy at work. I am glad I had the assistance of an experienced mechanic when it came to the best methods for removing caliper bolts etc. without screwing something up. While the tasks are pretty straightforward his experience made the job much easier. So if I remember, I post an update once the brakes have some miles on them.
Follow up: I did not do the TBU. Why, well, I don't tow much other than an aluminum trailer with yard stuff and perhaps a motorcycle, this is a first time project for me and I didn't feel like getting into caliper replacement. So, I bought an EBC kit from Auto Zone. GD rotors and Greenstuff pads. Installed yesterday with most of the work being done by our do everything shop guy at work. I am glad I had the assistance of an experienced mechanic when it came to the best methods for removing caliper bolts etc. without screwing something up. While the tasks are pretty straightforward his experience made the job much easier. So if I remember, I post an update once the brakes have some miles on them.
