Got mine done. I have a 2WD, so I took the starter out through the bottom towards the front. I did take the flaps down a bit in the wheel well (fore and aft of the strut), but I only used the openings for viewing and reaching. I did not remove the exhaust bracket; it really didn't come into play for me. And maybe it was a given, but you obviously have to drop the rear skid plate to access the starter from underneath.
Interesting...mine was a NAPA starter, not OEM. I guess that means the OEM starter went bad at some point (probably just the contacts), and the previous owner had it replaced with a NAPA starter. Anyway, I changed the contact plates and plunger in the NAPA starter; they needed it badly. I kept the starter connector as it was (just the brass tab sticking out from the black plastic), and used a zip tie to keep it together when reassembling.
The FSM discusses using a press and a piece of wood to hold the new contact plates level and in place while tightening the nuts. I noticed no one in this thread went to that trouble (or didn't mention it). I don't have a press, but I improvised and used a big C-clamp to hold the plunger compressed down onto the contacts to keep them level and in place while I tightened the nuts.
Putting the starter back in was my biggest challenge. Again, from the bottom front, I had to put it in going upward, back first, then stick the back back into the engine bay under the exhaust manifold as far as possible, twist it a bit to clear the engine mount, and finally twist a bit more to get the starter gear into the opening of the flywheel. Yeah, sounds straightforward, but it took several strained attempts to get it done. Lots of trial and error holding a 15lb starter with fumbling hands and contorted arms under the frame, around the strut, brake line, and tranny fluid lines. I agree with a previous poster about removing the upper tranny dipstick tube. That would have made it much easier, but of course I did it the hard way and left it on. It was going to be my last resort.
It is absolutely necessary to have plenty of extensions and breaker bars, in addition to a ratchet set, with this project. I suggest only using 6-point sockets, as 12-point sockets would likely slip and round-off the bolt heads. I also recognized now that I need to get some bigger, taller jack stands for working on this 4Runner.
Lots of good info on this thread! Thanks to all for sharing!