Another trailer / boat towing question

I'm not an expert on pontoon boats and their trailers, but are you sure that trailer is adjusted correctly? It looks like the boat may be too far forward on the trailer.
I need to slide the stop/winch back about 28 inches. The trailer is meant for up to 26ft boats so they have it all the way up from the factory.

While its not dangerous it is putting slightly more weight on the tongue than it has too.

I also need to slide the pontoon float rails apart farther by about 2 inches.

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I need to slide the stop/winch back about 28 inches. The trailer is meant for up to 26ft boats so they have it all the way up from the factory.

While its not dangerous it is putting slightly more weight on the tongue than it has too.

I also need to slide the pontoon float rails apart farther by about 2 inches.

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Do pontoon boats have the majority of their weight in the back 30% of the boat?
 
Do pontoon boats have the majority of their weight in the back 30% of the boat?

Basically yes. The motor, gas tanks, and drive control systems are usually right near the rear of the boats. Otherwise they are pretty light weight boats. I'd bet the center of mass is about around 25-35% of length from the rear. But that's also pretty typical for most powerboats in general.
 
Basically yes. The motor, gas tanks, and drive control systems are usually right near the rear of the boats. Otherwise they are pretty light weight boats. I'd bet the center of mass is about around 25-35% of length from the rear. But that's also pretty typical for most powerboats in general.

The trailer wheels are pretty far back on that trailer. I figured weight was the reason. Never had a boat that long.
 
The biggest mistake I see on a regular basis is having the wrong trailer hitch. If your ball is too high on a single axle trailer - it moves the COG back and changes the effective tongue weight making for a potentially unbalanced trailer. On a dual axle trailer, it actually adds tongue weight most of the time because you're now putting more load on the rear axle and moving the effective center of the pair of axles. Typically trailer brakes are on the front axle in a tandem axle setup, so you're now removing weight from the axle with the brakes and increasing the likelihood of lockup and reducing effective brake force. Plus if the trailer tongue is not level it's going to want to lift the rear of your tow vehicle also reducing braking ability. Ideally a slight downward slope of the trailer frame should exist or at least get it level. The correct drop hitch is pretty easy to sort out most times and shouldn't cost an arm and a leg either.
On dual torsion axles, I can see tongue height affecting axle loading, but don't see where it'd do that for dual leaf spring axles (excepting the CG movement).

Also don't see how level trailer affects lifting of the rear of the vehicle except for the CG issue.
 
The trailer wheels are pretty far back on that trailer. I figured weight was the reason. Never had a boat that long.

To me - that boat also looks too far forward on the trailer. With a universal trailer it probably needs to have the winch location moved back a few feet at least. Pontoon boats tend to be pretty rear-heavy.

My sailboat is a lot different. My axle on that boat centers just slightly rear of the middle of the boat, but the weight distribution on a sailboat is often quite a bit different from that of a power boat.
 
On dual torsion axles, I can see tongue height affecting axle loading, but don't see where it'd do that for dual leaf spring axles (excepting the CG movement).

Also don't see how level trailer affects lifting of the rear of the vehicle except for the CG issue.

The equalizer leaf spring setups work - but only within a pretty small range. They usually only have a couple inches of total travel. So a couple inches off at the ball can throw them out of balance.
Here's a pretty good video explanation
<iframe width="854" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ihrHoJChals" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>


As far as pushing up or down, if the ball is too high the forward push against a braking vehicle will also have an upward component that will tend to lift the rear. Similarly too low and you'll get the rear pushing down upon braking.
 
I suspect it's one of those things that the marketing department added later. The VSC doesn't have a clue as to whether your vehicle is rotating around the yaw axis because of trailer sway or because it's skidding on ice. It'll react to either one. The marketing types likely just decided "hey, a feature we didn't know we had - put it in the manual!" How well it actually works is anybody's guess, since I suspect the engineering department was concentrating more on slick road stability.

FWIW - it's specifically programmed to act differently under trailer induced sway. The sway is measurably different from vehicle skid by the rotational center. The sensors should be able to recognize it.

<iframe width="854" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/T_16LDGQll0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
How good can you see directly behind you, for instance a cop close behind you with his lights on?
Not too well. Considering mirror extensions. However I will tow infrequently and can manage without and still feel safe.

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Not too well. Considering mirror extensions. However I will tow infrequently and can manage without and still feel safe.

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FYI you might want to check your local laws as some states mandate mirror extensions when towing wide loads. It would be a bummer to get a ticket for this.

Cheers, James


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I tow a 16 ft enclosed with 2 big atv's . Aluminum trailer with gear and bikes 4000lbs Tows like a dream. 250 miles each way up north, hills and curves No problem. I have pulled a 18 ft pontoon pita it so large and susceptible to all winds and you cannot see around it very well. Still no problem for runner. I also have Honda Ridgline and the 4runner puts it to shame.
 
Here is an update:


I have now gone on many longer trips pulling my pontoon boat along with camping gear and a dog.

Estimate the gross boat and trailer wait at 4300 loaded, another 700 of people, gear and dog in the car.

Honestly it pulls quite well. It is very happy at 65mph in 4th gear getting 10mpg.

I have and HIGHLY recommend you get rear airbags installed for safety and stability. Well worth $200. I put mine to about 25psi.

I also have a transmission cooler installed and monitor my transmission temperatures with an OBD2 adapter. Trans temps stay at a consistent 170 F and that is in 90 degree heat.

Mainly in Wisconsin which is hilly in many parts but no mountains. Trans will spike maybe twice a trip to the 190s on the very long inclines for less than 1 minute.

Unless you live in the mountains I do not see any reason you would have trouble pulling a large pontoon and heavy double axle trailer. Mine has surge breaks and everything stops very quick for so much weight. I would not pull without trailer breaks (have tried it on the 4runner and took way to long to slow things down).

Just drive safe at 65, give yourself room, stay alert and you are all set!

The pic below is before I put the airbags in. With the bags it sits at the same height as when not loaded.
afb6f46af865a8c46a8f5be99aeb02c4.jpg
4d96970f21f8f3730c17ce7051de5c4a.jpg


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