Anti-Seize

AE1M

Member
Planning on replacing the plugs in 2008 6cyl 4R with these plugs (Denso (3421) SK20HR11 Iridium Long Life Spark Plug)

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Do people normally include anti-seize grease with this vehicle such as this? (Permatex 81343 Anti-Seize Lubricant)

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Bob
 
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yes, a thin coat of it will help with the easy removal later. also, use a torque wrench for correct torque.
 
yes, a thin coat of it will help with the easy removal later. also, use a torque wrench for correct torque.

Yup.

I don't think the spark plug makers generally recommend it because they don't want you to overtighten but I think as long as you're using a torque wrench you'll be fine. I put it on mine.
 
Old thread... but its title has the right words in it. Anyone have their anti-seize "dry out"?

The plugs were VERY hard to extract. It didn't feel like they were going to break off... they just needed good hard pressure the whole way out. The Driver Rear plug was still "wet" and pulled out just fine. Plugs were in "ok" shape... but I could tell the top was starting to pit and the insulator nose was getting dirty. NGK plugs ran them for 60k (yeah over a little... but under from the first owner). V6.
 

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Old thread... but its title has the right words in it. Anyone have their anti-seize "dry out"?

The plugs were VERY hard to extract. It didn't feel like they were going to break off... they just needed good hard pressure the whole way out. The Driver Rear plug was still "wet" and pulled out just fine. Plugs were in "ok" shape... but I could tell the top was starting to pit and the insulator nose was getting dirty. NGK plugs ran them for 60k (yeah over a little... but under from the first owner). V6.

You don’t have to use anti seize on the plugs. The MFR doesn’t recommend them because the threads/metal are coated with anti seize. If you do, they will seize up when you remove them. Toyota doesn’t recommend the iridium plugs for the V6 and change them out every 30k miles.
 
You don’t have to use anti seize on the plugs. The MFR doesn’t recommend them because the threads/metal are coated with anti seize. If you do, they will seize up when you remove them. Toyota doesn’t recommend the iridium plugs for the V6 and change them out every 30k miles.

I just change mine with regular (non-iridium) Denso. Did use permatex antiseize lightly on new ones.

"If you do, they will seize up when you remove them"
Why? I understand torque issues, or becoming loose but seizing with antiseize?

Thanks
 
NGK and others (can't remember which ones) say anti-seize is not necessary. I've been using it for YEARS and always had the pleasure of taking out plugs that were not a pain to take out. Yes, I've had to extract plugs in the past (MASSIVE PAIN IN THE ASSH). Just be sure to use a small amount and not COAT the plug with it.
 
I just change mine with regular (non-iridium) Denso. Did use permatex antiseize lightly on new ones.

"If you do, they will seize up when you remove them"
Why? I understand torque issues, or becoming loose but seizing with antiseize?

Thanks


This is from NGK web site.
 

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I'm sure the other me probably filled the threads w/ anti-seize (WHICH IS TOOOOO MUCH!!!). I pulled the plugs and wiped them off so there is just the thinnest of coating (basically no trace) left on them.
Needless to say... it takes no time at all to change the plugs on a v12 4runner w/ 0 miles on them. :P
 
I’ve always just added a drop of clean motor oil to the threads. I’ve been changing my own plugs since I was a kid and never had one get stuck or come loose. Anti seize doesn’t sound like a good idea to me.
 
I'm surprised no one has mentioned another reason not to use anti seize. Tracking. If any of the anti seize gets near the electrode, the spark can "track" through it. This can cause misfires as the spark finds an easier path to ground vs jumping the gap.
 

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