Antman
Elite Member
Here's a nice writeup for your 3rd Gen...
Factory Fog Lamp Re-Wire Mod - 3rd Gen 4Runner - YotaTech Forums
ANTMAN'S Thread
- Thread starter Antman
- Start date
Here's a nice writeup for your 3rd Gen...
Factory Fog Lamp Re-Wire Mod - 3rd Gen 4Runner - YotaTech Forums
MadeInMaine
New member
What are the switches / buttons right in front of the shifter?
I couldn't figure it out trying to look through all the 70 something pages~!!!
Antman
Elite Member
What are the switches / buttons right in front of the shifter?
I couldn't figure it out trying to look through all the 70 something pages~!!!
The switches are for the Gobi-mounted roof lights. Left is front, right is rear.
Attachments
MadeInMaine
New member
do you have a write up for that? i can't seem to find the install for it.
drdolittlerwc
New member
Thanks! Yeah, I read that one too, I think what I am trying to do is actually isolate the switch and use aftermarket wiring. Which I have yet to see done on any of the threads, so I guess I first need to know if it can be done. I'll ask around on the 3rd Gen forums some more.
Thanks again!
Antman
Elite Member
I didn't document that. Basically it's just a simple switch/relay to the lights. I did document the redundant switches that are hidden outside on the hatch.
Here's the link for that...
Outside light switch install
Antman
Elite Member
Here is an alternative battery solution that is pretty inexpensive. This is Costco's (made by Interstate) biggest battery- the 27DC. It's a dual purpose battery- Starting and Deep Cycle and it's a beast!
Less than $90 at Costco.
I've been running this battery in my boat for a few years now and I'm very happy with it. I can run my trolling motor 8+ hours and still have plenty of juice. I've fished at night and had the deck lights (non-LED) on all night too. In fact, I've never completely discharged this battery.
Along with 750 cranking amps, it has 160 minutes reserve capacity.
Reserve Capacity is a very important rating. This is the number of minutes a fully charged battery at 80 ° F will discharge 25 amps until the battery drops below 10.5 volts. 160 is a good number- Perfect for camping.
Problem is, the terminals are on the wrong side to be used in the 4Runner.
I made it work with all the factory cables. Only thing I made was an extension strap for the positive terminal. A few things had to be modified a little bit though. Read on...
**Starting with the negative terminal, I flattened it out and oriented the clamp like you see. The cable fits between the battery and the tie-down rod. I also re-routed the cable so it was under the feed for the fuse box (pic). The ground strap on the fire wall also needed to be removed and reinstalled (no modification to it, just needed it temporarily out of the way).
The only other thing I did was to pull the main wire loom's plastic retainer off the steel bracket (right next to the alternator) and strap tie it as shown. Where the negative terminal exits the wire loom I cut a little bit of the electrical tape away.
These slight changes allowed the factory cable to fit with no stress.
**Now, the positive terminal.
There are 3 parts we are dealing with here:
The battery clamp, the starter cable and the feed to the fusebox.
The lug on the starter cable was flattened just like the negative battery lug. I drilled a second hole in this lug directly behind the first. This was so I could attach an extension and not worry about it turning or loosening up.
The extension is basically a piece of steel 4" long by 3/4" wide with 3 holes; 2 on one end for the battery clamp/starter lug, and 1 on the other for the fusebox lug. This extension is needed to connect the fusebox wire to the battery because that wire is too short to reach.
The starter cable connects at the battery clamp (like it originally was) with the extension bolted on top with 2 bolts. At the other end of the extension is the factory fuse box feed on top with my Blue Seas fusebox feed underneath. (The Blue Seas wire is the one in the picture that runs next to the factory fusebox.)
I used galvanized bolts and locknuts to connect the extension. Then I coated it all with liquid electrical tape for insulation.
The pictures look a little rough, but that's because I was ran out of liquid electrical tape, LOL. I'll make it all purty tomorrow. It's strong and tidy. I doubt I'll have any issues with it!
It fits in there really well now with zero stress on the wires.
***
P.S.
I did a test run tonight. My 1000 watt inverter would not run my camping coffee maker (Mr Coffee 5 cup mini 750W) without the truck running. I made two back to back runs with the truck off with no problems. What's even better is I used the battery fishing today, so it wasn't even fully charged! Me likey.
Happy modding!
EDIT- I fixed this half-assed crap the next day. LOL! Scroll down a bit...
Less than $90 at Costco.
I've been running this battery in my boat for a few years now and I'm very happy with it. I can run my trolling motor 8+ hours and still have plenty of juice. I've fished at night and had the deck lights (non-LED) on all night too. In fact, I've never completely discharged this battery.
Along with 750 cranking amps, it has 160 minutes reserve capacity.
Reserve Capacity is a very important rating. This is the number of minutes a fully charged battery at 80 ° F will discharge 25 amps until the battery drops below 10.5 volts. 160 is a good number- Perfect for camping.
Problem is, the terminals are on the wrong side to be used in the 4Runner.
I made it work with all the factory cables. Only thing I made was an extension strap for the positive terminal. A few things had to be modified a little bit though. Read on...
**Starting with the negative terminal, I flattened it out and oriented the clamp like you see. The cable fits between the battery and the tie-down rod. I also re-routed the cable so it was under the feed for the fuse box (pic). The ground strap on the fire wall also needed to be removed and reinstalled (no modification to it, just needed it temporarily out of the way).
The only other thing I did was to pull the main wire loom's plastic retainer off the steel bracket (right next to the alternator) and strap tie it as shown. Where the negative terminal exits the wire loom I cut a little bit of the electrical tape away.
These slight changes allowed the factory cable to fit with no stress.
**Now, the positive terminal.
There are 3 parts we are dealing with here:
The battery clamp, the starter cable and the feed to the fusebox.
The lug on the starter cable was flattened just like the negative battery lug. I drilled a second hole in this lug directly behind the first. This was so I could attach an extension and not worry about it turning or loosening up.
The extension is basically a piece of steel 4" long by 3/4" wide with 3 holes; 2 on one end for the battery clamp/starter lug, and 1 on the other for the fusebox lug. This extension is needed to connect the fusebox wire to the battery because that wire is too short to reach.
The starter cable connects at the battery clamp (like it originally was) with the extension bolted on top with 2 bolts. At the other end of the extension is the factory fuse box feed on top with my Blue Seas fusebox feed underneath. (The Blue Seas wire is the one in the picture that runs next to the factory fusebox.)
I used galvanized bolts and locknuts to connect the extension. Then I coated it all with liquid electrical tape for insulation.
The pictures look a little rough, but that's because I was ran out of liquid electrical tape, LOL. I'll make it all purty tomorrow. It's strong and tidy. I doubt I'll have any issues with it!
It fits in there really well now with zero stress on the wires.
***
P.S.
I did a test run tonight. My 1000 watt inverter would not run my camping coffee maker (Mr Coffee 5 cup mini 750W) without the truck running. I made two back to back runs with the truck off with no problems. What's even better is I used the battery fishing today, so it wasn't even fully charged!
Me likey.Happy modding!
EDIT- I fixed this half-assed crap the next day. LOL! Scroll down a bit...
Last edited:
eddiebx
New member
You sure got a great deal on that battery Jeff, certainly can't beat the price for that amount of capacity, and deep cycle to boot. I think I paid over double that for my sears deep cycle in a similar capacity, lol.
Now I don't mean to intrude on your build thread, but could I possibly convince you into reworking the positive connection technique you've got going on? Pretty please?
My concern is...you said you used a piece of steel as the "jumper" between the clamp and the OE cable end; and I don't think steel is that great of a conductor (as compared to cooper). In case you're curious here's a pretty nice link that discusses this in more detail: Electrical Conductivity of Materials - Blue Sea Systems
To be honest, I am not sure at all if that piece of steel is sized sufficiently to carry the full load or not. For all I know, it's perfectly fine and I'm just being a worry wart. But just to be on the safe side I would strongly advice in swapping that out for something cooper perhaps.
This style of conversion cable comes to mind:
Top Post to Side Terminal Conversion Cables - Remy Battery
This is just a standard side terminal adapter and you can most likely easily bolt the OE end to it use a side terminal bolt. The length will probably be just about right for you too (~7").
I'd hate to see you throw in that nice battery, and then end up bottlenecking the electrical system with one weak link. Also since it does not conduct as well, it might even heat up too under higher loads.
Anyway, like I said, I don't mean to push my opinions on you because I know I am a bit overly cautious when it comes to all things electrical. I usually end up over-building any electrical modification, lol. Just something to consider in case my peer pressure works :cheers:
Now I don't mean to intrude on your build thread, but could I possibly convince you into reworking the positive connection technique you've got going on? Pretty please?
My concern is...you said you used a piece of steel as the "jumper" between the clamp and the OE cable end; and I don't think steel is that great of a conductor (as compared to cooper). In case you're curious here's a pretty nice link that discusses this in more detail: Electrical Conductivity of Materials - Blue Sea Systems
To be honest, I am not sure at all if that piece of steel is sized sufficiently to carry the full load or not. For all I know, it's perfectly fine and I'm just being a worry wart. But just to be on the safe side I would strongly advice in swapping that out for something cooper perhaps.
This style of conversion cable comes to mind:
Top Post to Side Terminal Conversion Cables - Remy Battery
This is just a standard side terminal adapter and you can most likely easily bolt the OE end to it use a side terminal bolt. The length will probably be just about right for you too (~7").
I'd hate to see you throw in that nice battery, and then end up bottlenecking the electrical system with one weak link. Also since it does not conduct as well, it might even heat up too under higher loads.
Anyway, like I said, I don't mean to push my opinions on you because I know I am a bit overly cautious when it comes to all things electrical. I usually end up over-building any electrical modification, lol. Just something to consider in case my peer pressure works :cheers:
Antman
Elite Member
[MENTION=85512]eddiebx[/MENTION] I feel the love! I don't mind the criticism, this MOD deserved it, LOL.
After I did the mod I was feeling the same way. See, I was getting stuff together for camping and I was thinking about that inverter not getting enough juice, so I figured I would just see if that battery from my boat would fit. One thing led to another and I just couldn't stop.
Good news is I fixed it yesterday for 25 bucks. I should have posted the results!
Basically I picked up a chrome plated copper BUS bar from West Marine and made it into my extension. It's thicker, longer (easy Pat :der and being copper, I have no worries now. As an added bonus, the install is much cleaner with the cables exiting the back of the battery again.
Eventually I will get another red boot to replace the black cover, but everything is insulated!
Here's how it sits now...Whaddayou think?
After I did the mod I was feeling the same way. See, I was getting stuff together for camping and I was thinking about that inverter not getting enough juice, so I figured I would just see if that battery from my boat would fit. One thing led to another and I just couldn't stop.
Good news is I fixed it yesterday for 25 bucks. I should have posted the results!
Basically I picked up a chrome plated copper BUS bar from West Marine and made it into my extension. It's thicker, longer (easy Pat :der
and being copper, I have no worries now. As an added bonus, the install is much cleaner with the cables exiting the back of the battery again. Eventually I will get another red boot to replace the black cover, but everything is insulated!
Here's how it sits now...Whaddayou think?
Last edited:
Titanpat57
Senior Member
boom, Boom, BOOM!!!!!!!!
out go the lights!!!!!!:fish:
out go the lights!!!!!!:fish:
Antman
Elite Member
You better shut it pal. [MENTION=48772]Jesse1983[/MENTION] when are you gonna ban this freak?!
Titanpat57
Senior Member
[MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] he likes me better Dill weed...So cram it!
eddiebx
New member
What ever happened to that new bottle of liquid electrical tape pal?
Looks MUCH better! Go delete the original pix and get rid of the evidence, lol.
Antman
Elite Member
Nah- Gotta live with your mistakes! It makes you better. I'll edit the post though... Thanks Pal!:becky:
1engineer
Moderator
[MENTION=85512]eddiebx[/MENTION] I feel the love! I don't mind the criticism, this MOD deserved it, LOL.
After I did the mod I was feeling the same way. See, I was getting stuff together for camping and I was thinking about that inverter not getting enough juice, so I just figured I would just see if that battery from my boat would fit. One thing led to another and I just couldn't stop.
Good news is I fixed it yesterday for 25 bucks. I should have posted the results!
Basically I picked up a chrome plated copper BUS bar from West Marine and made it into my extension. It's thicker, longer (easy Pat :der
Eventually I will get another red boot to replace the black cover, but everything is insulated!
Here's how it sits now...Whaddayou think?
Nice job Jeff. As you all know I hate all things electrical engineering wise and EVEN I knew not to run the current that way lol. Sometime you guys can ask me what it feels like to have 7200V going through you. It's actually not as painful as 460V but it's much scarier.
Antman
Elite Member
Expedition Style Storage/Sleeping Compartment
Well, I've been itching to post the results for my new storage box for weeks! It's still not 100%, but it's done enough for now. I still need to let the paint dry completely and have a few small details to work out.
What's the purpose? It all started when I got a great deal on C/L for a Coleman Powerchill thermoelectric cooler- 40 bucks!. Eventually I will have a fridge, but this will work for now. Thermoelectric coolers draw A LOT more power than quality 12V fridges and they can only cool to a temp 40' below ambient air temp. Still, I usually camp when it's colder out so 70' translates into nice cold beer/food.
One thing led to another and mounting the cooler turned into a new storage box. I learned a lot last time around so this box is stronger, more secure and fills the space much better. I still have a flat place to sleep that is exactly the width of the passenger side and middle folded rear seat. As a bonus, I have about 1/3 more storage space and I have a nice slide-out table!
Check it out...
The frame and table are maple plywood.
[MENTION=65398]Reata[/MENTION] That bottle opener finally found it's true home! You da man.
CONTINUED
Well, I've been itching to post the results for my new storage box for weeks! It's still not 100%, but it's done enough for now. I still need to let the paint dry completely and have a few small details to work out.
What's the purpose? It all started when I got a great deal on C/L for a Coleman Powerchill thermoelectric cooler- 40 bucks!. Eventually I will have a fridge, but this will work for now. Thermoelectric coolers draw A LOT more power than quality 12V fridges and they can only cool to a temp 40' below ambient air temp. Still, I usually camp when it's colder out so 70' translates into nice cold beer/food.
One thing led to another and mounting the cooler turned into a new storage box. I learned a lot last time around so this box is stronger, more secure and fills the space much better. I still have a flat place to sleep that is exactly the width of the passenger side and middle folded rear seat. As a bonus, I have about 1/3 more storage space and I have a nice slide-out table!
Check it out...
The frame and table are maple plywood.
[MENTION=65398]Reata[/MENTION] That bottle opener finally found it's true home! You da man.
CONTINUED
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