Anybody interested in a rear coolant line repair write-up??

[Nelsonmd]

Ok...here is the problem with your fix. You only replaced only the small section of line where it corroded through, but yet you left the rest of the line that is just as rusted?? At some point that will rust threw as well!
When I did mine I went and got 20 ft. of heater hose.
I removed the lines from the tee in the engine bay
Then removed then from the connection underneath running into the rear heater.
I then ran both lines with heater hose.
I used hose clamps on either end and then used heavy duty zip ties to secure the lines steady to frame etc...
I will post some pictures tommorow.

You only really need to replace the corroded part. The vehicle is at least 10 years old, so if it hasn't corroded at all yet, it probably isn't going to. The steel lines in my engine bay look good as new, so no rusting problems there, it's just the lower section that gets splashed with salt every winter.

 

[bgmac]

You only really need to replace the corroded part. The vehicle is at least 10 years old, so if it hasn't corroded at all yet, it probably isn't going to. The steel lines in my engine bay look good as new, so no rusting problems there, it's just the lower section that gets splashed with salt every winter.

Never said they were rusted in the engine bay. Actually the lines in the engine bay will be the only part not rusted. They feed down threw the passenger side wheel well, where they start to rust getting exposed to the elements. It is just easier to remove the lines completely and replce. Its 20' 3/8 heater hose, 4 or 8 hose clamps and a few zip ties here and there. Ruffly $15

 

[Volley]

Thanks! Going to tackle this today I think.

 

[fightman80]

Ok...here is the problem with your fix. You only replaced only the small section of line where it corroded through, but yet you left the rest of the line that is just as rusted?? At some point that will rust threw as well!

Actually, I'm coating the rest of the steel line with grease, so that will stop any additional rusting from occuring....the line only corroded where the little shield covered it. It was one of the only spots on the truck I missed when doing my undercarriage oil spray jobs......as I didn't even know what was under the shield until it started leaking.....

 

[Shawn5800]

This happened to my truck also, my truck emptied out my whole coolant supply on the driveway.

I just cut my lines off from the bottom, disconnected from the top, pulled them straight out through the engine bay.

Bought some solid tubing from the auto store, bent it to match each line perfect. Then slid them back through and connected them up.

$8 fix.

 

[Marley2984]

Ok so I have had the same issue with these lines. With 200,000 now I'm pricing replacing cooling system parts... so along with the timing belt replacment/water pump/thermostat change, I'm replacing the radiator to a Koyo with new cap, aisin fan clutch, red coolant, etc..... .but I still have this issue with these rusted rear lines. Just called the dealership to verify the stock code but the price is still $110 dollars. My skills are not that good to mess with it but I seriously dont want to replace it if I could purchase some coolant line and fit it on instead. I'll attach a few pictures of what mine looks like. I want to go out and purchase rubber lines and direct the shop on what to do. I see where that metal lines starts that is atached to the passenger side firewall and extends down and under. Is it removed there and the hoses attach and go down and under? I see the metal cover I guess where it leads up from under into the console. Is that cover removed and the rubber lines have something to attach to under there? How are you attaching it to the body also?

 

[Nelsonmd]

Ok so I have had the same issue with these lines. With 200,000 now I'm pricing replacing cooling system parts... so along with the timing belt replacment/water pump/thermostat change, I'm replacing the radiator to a Koyo with new cap, aisin fan clutch, red coolant, etc..... .but I still have this issue with these rusted rear lines. Just called the dealership to verify the stock code but the price is still $110 dollars. My skills are not that good to mess with it but I seriously dont want to replace it if I could purchase some coolant line and fit it on instead. I'll attach a few pictures of what mine looks like. I want to go out and purchase rubber lines and direct the shop on what to do. I see where that metal lines starts that is atached to the passenger side firewall and extends down and under. Is it removed there and the hoses attach and go down and under? I see the metal cover I guess where it leads up from under into the console. Is that cover removed and the rubber lines have something to attach to under there? How are you attaching it to the body also?

You skills don't need to be very good tackle this little project. You just have to be able to cut the hard lines off (you could even snip them if you fixed the mangled end afterwards), cut the hose, and clamp them on.

I used some brass fittings to attach to existing fittings in the back, under that cover. I just used zip ties to attach the lines to the frame.

 

[Volley]

Yea this was a really easy job to my surprise as Nelson said. I just used rubber heater hose from Napa.

Marley, I see you are in Fredericksburg, VA. If you get near my way in Maryland, I will be happy to help you out.

 

[Marley2984]

What part of MD?? lol Might take you up on it. I looked at it again this weekend but trying to figure the parts needed and how the heck you all cut the lines with out coolant pouring out eerywhere.

 

[fightman80]

I cut my lines using a Dremmel and a cutting disk. The coolant did pour out, but I had a bucket on the ground to collect it........

 

[Diverse4runner]

Just goes to show searching helps. My coolant lines just ruptured by the heat shield going to cut and replace with reinforced rubber hose.

Thanks fightman!!

 

[Diverse4runner]

So how long did yours leak into the bucket?

 

[Ron Helmuth]

thanks Diverse4 for resurrecting this thread.
Fightman thanks for this writeup sir. BGmac appreciate your inputs as well.

 

[Diverse4runner]

Actually, I'm coating the rest of the steel line with grease, so that will stop any additional rusting from occuring....the line only corroded where the little shield covered it. It was one of the only spots on the truck I missed when doing my undercarriage oil spray jobs......as I didn't even know what was under the shield until it started leaking.....

What size hose did you use 3/8's? Just curious if yours is still holding I think the hose is a little big around the pipe. Also, as I put one hose one one pipe, now the other pipe is leaking ugh....:moping:

 

[JohnsD90]

I found a new solution to this problem. I bought a Rust Free 4Runner!

 

[TheDurk]

I found a new solution to this problem. I bought a Rust Free 4Runner!

I bought mine new, so I did, too--but to my amazement my rear lines are pristine. No trace of rust at all, and the clowns around here start throwing salt before the storm and then go to bed because it all melts off in anything short of a blizzard. But we get a lot less snow than the New England guys. And I frequently spend a month or so in Brazil in the winter using my ex's Diesel HiLux.

 

[fightman80]

I honestly don't know what size of hose I used.... it was just a piece I had lying around the garage... which I inherited when I bought the place...

The line is holding up just fine... no leaks to date!

 

[Diverse4runner]

I found a new solution to this problem. I bought a Rust Free 4Runner!

Mine has minimal rust except for those lines. I finally just said "screw it I live in Florida and don't need a rear heater". I just bypassed the rear lines from under the hood. Now I don't have to worry about it leaking:biggrin1:

 

[drtyjerz47]

Never said they were rusted in the engine bay. Actually the lines in the engine bay will be the only part not rusted. They feed down threw the passenger side wheel well, where they start to rust getting exposed to the elements. It is just easier to remove the lines completely and replce. Its 20' 3/8 heater hose, 4 or 8 hose clamps and a few zip ties here and there. Ruffly $15

ok, so when i got my 4R the lines were removed in the engine bay, so i have the rusted out ones under the car that I'm going to replace but once i run them into the engine bay i have no idea where they go or where they ran to and conned to. do you have a series of pictures that pretty much follows the lines through there little route? that would really help me get this problem fixed

 

[happysmp]

ok, so when i got my 4R the lines were removed in the engine bay, so i have the rusted out ones under the car that I'm going to replace but once i run them into the engine bay i have no idea where they go or where they ran to and conned to. do you have a series of pictures that pretty much follows the lines through there little route? that would really help me get this problem fixed

This is a great thread! Thanks for posting. My garage found the same issue and actually told me the leak was why my truck smelled like burning after driving it around.

Anyways, garage quoted me $100 for the work to replace it but $15 in parts looks like a great DIY to me. When I passed on the garage quote they clamped these off from the engine bay. I'll take some pictures and post them soon.

And in the pics it looks like 3/8" heat piping was used.