Are extended sway bar links required after 3" lift?

[octanejunkie]

They'll disconnect when you unbolt them.



No one makes disco's for 3rd Gen's since you don't need them. Add longer links and go have fun without having to worry about binding CV or losing a rear spring.



Mike

So, theoretically, for a 3-in lift on a 3rd gen:
2nd gen rear SBELs up front,
3rd gen front SBELs in the back

Would that do it?

 

[shadow247]

So, theoretically, for a 3-in lift on a 3rd gen:
2nd gen rear SBELs up front,
3rd gen front SBELs in the back

Would that do it?

That's what I went with on my 7 wrap/TRD lift on my last 3rd Gen.

The only issue I found is that the Rear Lower Control arm can hit the link at full articulation. I noticed some scratch marks on my arms and ended up going back to the stock length links in the rear. The front still requires extended links with that much lift.

 

[MStudt]

So, theoretically, for a 3-in lift on a 3rd gen:
2nd gen rear SBELs up front,
3rd gen front SBELs in the back

Would that do it?

That's an option.

Mike

 

[repo]

So, theoretically, for a 3-in lift on a 3rd gen:
2nd gen rear SBELs up front,
3rd gen front SBELs in the back

Would that do it?

The other option is the Sonoran Steel sway bar mount relocation extension that moves the whole bar. They explain their logic in the description: Rear Sway Bar Brackets from our 1.2 Lift Kit - $48.45 : Sonoran Steel

Their solution for the front bar involves some welding Retrofit 01-04 Toyota Tacoma Sway Bar on 96-02 Toyota 4Runner - $48.45 : Sonoran Steel

 

[repo]

So, theoretically, for a 3-in lift on a 3rd gen:
2nd gen rear SBELs up front,
3rd gen front SBELs in the back

Would that do it?

That's the setup I had until I got tired of replacing broken ones on a yearly basis simply from let's say spirited road driving. Now I have 3rd gen fronts on the front and rear because I had an old set lying around. I'm sure it was the poly bushings that kept breaking them because I haven't had any issues since replacing all of them with OEM rubber ones. The poly sway bar bushings would constantly fill up with sand and grit too.

 

[repo]

Not sure if this would have happened with the stock length fronts. It was when I had the longer 2nd gen ones on the front. Happened a few days after I installed a brand new cv axle pfft. Took me a little while to notice, it didn't affect the driving other than body roll which made me look. Was actually able to regrease and reclamp the boot. Something to consider.

 

[mennisrodman]

Not sure if this would have happened with the stock length fronts. It was when I had the longer 2nd gen ones on the front. Happened a few days after I installed a brand new cv axle pfft. Took me a little while to notice, it didn't affect the driving other than body roll which made me look. Was actually able to regrease and reclamp the boot. Something to consider.

Whoa wth? So your link disconnected somehow and jabbed your CV boot?

 

[repo]

Whoa wth? So your link disconnected somehow and jabbed your CV boot?

Yeah it snapped off at the bushing washer and managed to push the CV boot/clamp off. I always wondered what would happen if an endlink broke and flopped in to the steering or CV and assumed Toyota had thought about this scenario so didn't care much. But obviously this one was longer than stock so that's what can happen I guess.

 

[02_SE_Runner_DAD]

After my 3" lift i'm still running stock links with no problem.

 

[Endlessblockades]

After my 3" lift i'm still running stock links with no problem.

Might not be a 'Problem', but I bet your sway bars aren't sitting at their optimal resting angle and are preloaded. I'm not even an Armchair Engineer - just something I read somewhere that makes sense.

 

[Im-not-guilty]

What about the sway bar drop spacers
Yes or no

 

[3rd3rdGen]

If you're considering the Studt/OCD links, I'd recommend his newer forged ball design:

Forged Ball Joint Sway Bar Links
– Overland Custom Design

I bought his quick disconnect links and they developed play that caused a loud clicking noise while driving within a few months. So I bought a set of his ball joint non quick disconnect links and the ball joint snapped on one side after about a year, during which I barely drove the truck. So far I have been less than impressed with the quality of this company's products. Buyer beware.

 

[Endlessblockades]

I bought his quick disconnect links and they developed play that caused a loud clicking noise while driving within a few months. So I bought a set of his ball joint non quick disconnect links and the ball joint snapped on one side after about a year, during which I barely drove the truck. So far I have been less than impressed with the quality of this company's products. Buyer beware.

That's a bummer. My regular forged units have been good for a few years.

 

[Soulman]

I am going through this right now. I bought Moog 2nd Gen rears for the front of mine (+/- 3" lift) and they are BARELY longer than my stock fronts- thinner too, which is a bit concerning after seeing the broken one in this thread. I am currently driving around town without a front sway bar and do like the increased compliance, but I drive 750 miles one way to get to where I typically offroad and feel like I would feel better with it on at freeway speeds with cross winds.

Also, I do have Energy Suspension bushings for both front and rear, is the consensus that the poly bushings are not helpful for these applications??