AssBurns 2000 Limited Build Thread

[AssBurns]

Very respectable goal my friend! I wish you the best of luck and determination on reaching it and beyond. I have recently found the same goal, the truck is all I have left to pay off.



Great job with the gears! With how much I use the highway, I don't know if I could handle 5.29s. But man they would have been nice to have at certain points. And agree 1000% on ECGS, they are the tits.

I’m hoping to achieve my goal by the end of this year. I took a loan out to pay for part of the wedding, that should be paid in the next couple months, then I can tackle my wife’s car loan and save up for a new vehicle. I don’t like financing things but my wife bought her car before we were married and financed most of the car. Depending on how my tax return looks, I may achieve that goal sooner. Being debt free is always such a big relief. More money to go towards truck parts instead of bills haha.

I haven’t had many miles of highway driving yet but I think they will be fine at 75 mph. We’ll see how I feel once I get some more miles on it.

 

[Black798]

[MENTION=118730]AssBurns[/MENTION] have you thought of long traveling the front? Then you wouldn't be buying that front diff to only sell it a year or so down the road. If you're already redoing the 4link in the back and have it regeared with 5.29s then your pretty much fully built there minus a full float conversion or chromolly shafts.

The front end with an arb is pretty bulletproof and with a +2.5 or 3 long travel kit, you'd be getting pretty good travel, great high-speed performance, and decent rock crawling ability. If you were using tundra cvs with an arb in the diff I can't imagine it being very far off of the strength in a TTB setup.

 

[AssBurns]

[MENTION=118730]AssBurns[/MENTION] have you thought of long traveling the front? Then you wouldn't be buying that front diff to only sell it a year or so down the road. If you're already redoing the 4link in the back and have it regeared with 5.29s then your pretty much fully built there minus a full float conversion or chromolly shafts.

The front end with an arb is pretty bulletproof and with a +2.5 or 3 long travel kit, you'd be getting pretty good travel, great high-speed performance, and decent rock crawling ability. If you were using tundra cvs with an arb in the diff I can't imagine it being very far off of the strength in a TTB setup.

Well a couple things that I like better about the Dana 44 TTB swap vs standard Long Travel. Firstly the front end on the D44 TTB can get 16" of clean/usable front travel relatively easy whereas the only LT kit that can do that is the Solo Motorsports kit that costs like $8,000 or something crazy. Custom CV axles are gonna be stupid expensive to replace if they break. I could do a standard LT kit that only gets like 13"-14" of travel and use modified tundra axles but still only 14" travel at most, weak CV's and weak differential. I can pick up a set of RCV axles for the TTB Dana 44 for the same cost as the Solo axles and not really have to worry about them constantly breaking even with 37's. The Dana 44 has a 8.5" Ring Gear where a LT kit is only keeping the 7.5" clamshell which is gonna be pretty hard to keep in one piece if I ever go to 37's. There is a ton of aftermarket support for the TTB's and parts will be easy to get for the already stronger axles.

Overall the D44 TTB is stronger than any of the long travel kits available, I can get more usable travel out of it (16" pretty easily, 19"-20" with some major work), parts are readily available, TTB has slightly more flex ability than IFS. Lastly, it will just be a fun project to do.

 

[cblock406]

I’m hoping to achieve my goal by the end of this year. I took a loan out to pay for part of the wedding, that should be paid in the next couple months, then I can tackle my wife’s car loan and save up for a new vehicle. I don’t like financing things but my wife bought her car before we were married and financed most of the car. Depending on how my tax return looks, I may achieve that goal sooner. Being debt free is always such a big relief. More money to go towards truck parts instead of bills haha.

I haven’t had many miles of highway driving yet but I think they will be fine at 75 mph. We’ll see how I feel once I get some more miles on it.

Good luck paying off your wedding! I was married in October and just finally paid mine off this month, hope your bride doesn't get too carried away!

 

[AssBurns]

Good luck paying off your wedding! I was married in October and just finally paid mine off this month, hope your bride doesn't get too carried away!

I got married over a year ago but just barely getting it paid off. We kinda got screwed. Her family kept saying they were gonna help with funds the entire time we were planning it out but it never happened. Ended up having to pull a loan for part of the wedding. Lesson learned, don't ever expect someone to help pay for something until you have cash in hand. If I would have known, I would have put the wedding off for a little longer to save more or just had a lower budget for the wedding. Congrats on getting your's paid off! That's awesome!

 

[cblock406]

I got married over a year ago but just barely getting it paid off. We kinda got screwed. Her family kept saying they were gonna help with funds the entire time we were planning it out but it never happened. Ended up having to pull a loan for part of the wedding. Lesson learned, don't ever expect someone to help pay for something until you have cash in hand. If I would have known, I would have put the wedding off for a little longer to save more or just had a lower budget for the wedding. Congrats on getting your's paid off! That's awesome!

Oh Gotcha, that sucks man! I put a giant chunk of ours on a credit card, it sucks having to spend so much money on one freaking day :der:. Happy wife/life I suppose.

Still paying on the damn ring...

 

[Black798]

Well a couple things that I like better about the Dana 44 TTB swap vs standard Long Travel. Firstly the front end on the D44 TTB can get 16" of clean/usable front travel relatively easy whereas the only LT kit that can do that is the Solo Motorsports kit that costs like $8,000 or something crazy. Custom CV axles are gonna be stupid expensive to replace if they break. I could do a standard LT kit that only gets like 13"-14" of travel and use modified tundra axles but still only 14" travel at most, weak CV's and weak differential. I can pick up a set of RCV axles for the TTB Dana 44 for the same cost as the Solo axles and not really have to worry about them constantly breaking even with 37's. The Dana 44 has a 8.5" Ring Gear where a LT kit is only keeping the 7.5" clamshell which is gonna be pretty hard to keep in one piece if I ever go to 37's. There is a ton of aftermarket support for the TTB's and parts will be easy to get for the already stronger axles.

Overall the D44 TTB is stronger than any of the long travel kits available, I can get more usable travel out of it (16" pretty easily, 19"-20" with some major work), parts are readily available, TTB has slightly more flex ability than IFS. Lastly, it will just be a fun project to do.

Fair enough. It will be interesting to see what you come up with for that!

 

[theesotericone]

Trying to be 100% debt free

I have recently found the same goal, the truck is all I have left to pay off.

Good for you guys. I've been debt free for years. Then I purchased my first home 5 years ago. Now I owe more money then I ever imagined I could. It's an investment in the long run but signing those mortgage papers had my head spinning. lol

 

[AssBurns]

Couple small little updates. I finally got around to replacing my worn out steering rack bushings with some energy suspension polyurethane bushings. Definitely helps tighten things up quite a bit, especially in cornering. I still have a shimmy/wobble when hitting potholes. Not sure what else could he loose besides the rack itself. I’m sure that’s on its last leg by now with all the abuse I’ve put it through.

I also replaced the Throttle Position Sensor. I noticed that my throttle was not acting consistent through acceleration, then I was getting weird shift patterns throughout the throttle cycle where it would shift up at really low RPM’s. This only happened once in a while. Eventually it threw a code and I was able to pinpoint the issue. Now things are much better. Finally glad to have it back to normal again after a couple months of dealing with getting progressively worse. MPG’s seem to have improved slightly as well.

Update on how I’m liking the 5.29 gears. I drove about 120 miles of highway miles this past weekend ranging from 65 to 80 mph. It’s really not bad at all being at 2900 rpm at 80 mph. I thought it would bother me but I got used to it quickly. Around town is great. All in all I’ve very happy with this ratio. Hopefully I can make them last this time.


Also I’ll be heading out to the Hammers tomorrow after work tomorrow until Sunday afternoon. I’ll have my HAM radio set to 146.560 or 147.560 if anyone wants to meet up. It would be cool to meet up with some 3rd gen guys and have some beers.

 

[Inv4drZm]

Hey, saw your post on Pirate4x4 and a couple here on your build about your double triangulated 4 link rear build. I too have been looking at revamping my rear with 14" shocks and a 3-link system. My question is how do you plan to build your double triangulated 4-link with your stock gas tank? It's completely in the way right?

I would love to get the best geometry and flattest/longest links possible without a panhard but the tank is in the way and my breakover angle for rocks would suck even more. If I did a 3-link I could theoretically move my gas tank up 1.5" (my body lift amount) which on the 4th gens, the tanks hang down quite a bit.

 

[Black798]

Hey, saw your post on Pirate4x4 and a couple here on your build about your double triangulated 4 link rear build. I too have been looking at revamping my rear with 14" shocks and a 3-link system. My question is how do you plan to build your double triangulated 4-link with your stock gas tank? It's completely in the way right?

I would love to get the best geometry and flattest/longest links possible without a panhard but the tank is in the way and my breakover angle for rocks would suck even more. If I did a 3-link I could theoretically move my gas tank up 1.5" (my body lift amount) which on the 4th gens, the tanks hang down quite a bit.

Go back a few pages, he did the f150 thank swap so his gas tank is now behind the rear axle freeing up plenty of room for the links

 

[Inv4drZm]

Go back a few pages, he did the f150 thank swap so his gas tank is now behind the rear axle freeing up plenty of room for the links

Just saw that and came back to this page to post LOL.

Hard for me to give up the factory 23 gallon tank...

 

[AssBurns]

Speaking of 4-link... these came in yesterday [emoji1591]

These things are beefy for sure! Super stoked to get this project started. Got a lot of work ahead of me to get things going.

The list includes:
- move and replace my muffler to where my 2nd cat currently sits
- cut out the crossmember behind the t-case and make a new one out of 2” x 6” x 3/16” rectangle tubing.
- cut out the rear crossmembers, and make a new crossmember a few inches back.
- cut out stock coil buckets and move them a few inches back.
- cut off stock link mounts off axle and frame
- cut off stock bump stops and move them a few inches back. (Or possibly upgrade to hydro bumps)
- cut out wheel well and bumper to make room for the axle to go back a couple inches.
- make/buy truss for upper link mounts to weld onto.
- mock up, weld and finish mounts and links.
- head to the desert.[emoji1619]

I really need to pick up a plasma cutter!!

 

[Black798]

If you're looking to keep a mellow exhaust tone when you move the muffler and have the room, I highly recommend the dynomax super turbo 20 inch. It has a slightly more aggressive idle tone but doesn't drone too bad at cruise speeds and is much more low profile than the stock one.

 

[AssBurns]

I’m gonna go with Magnaflow since I can get a pretty good deal on them from my brother. The one I got my eye on right now is the 4” x 9” oval XL series. If I have the room, I’ll try to go with the 18” long muffler but I might have to go with the 14” due to space. Those XL series are supposed to be pretty quiet compared to some of the others. Hopefully it’s quiet enough for my liking.

 

[theesotericone]

Speaking of 4-link... these came in yesterday [emoji1591]

Oh man, this is gonna be fun to watch.

Did you figure out the geometry yet? I'm curious what you end up with compared to some others on the site. As simple as a concept as 4 linkng is there's a shit ton of math and real world install issues that arise.

 

[AssBurns]

Oh man, this is gonna be fun to watch.



Did you figure out the geometry yet? I'm curious what you end up with compared to some others on the site. As simple as a concept as 4 linkng is there's a shit ton of math and real world install issues that arise.

Now that I got most of the parts together and am able to take exact measurements of things. My numbers aren’t going to be as ideal as I wanted but still going to be damn good. As of right now on the calculator, I have the following:
Anti-Squat: 97% (I was wanting closer to 80%)
Roll Center Height: 24” (right now is about 23”)
Roll Axis Angle: -2.75% (Right now is about 12%. That’s really bad!)
Lower Links: 40.75”
Upper Links: 41.00”

These numbers can obviously change once I get things dialed in a little more, but shouldn’t change a whole lot. I’d like to get my anti-squat a little lower, but I’d be okay where it’s at right now. If I could get the roll center a little higher, that would be cool too. The roll axis doesn’t need to be quite so negative but if I ever decide to go for a little more ride height, it would still drive super nice. Like you said, as simple as it is, it can get get really complicated very quickly. Even if it’s not perfect it’s still going to be a shit ton better than what I have now. Especially when I someday upgrade to some big boy coilovers, It’ll perform great throughout 20” of travel.

 

[AssBurns]

My Trail Gear upper link tower came in today from Low Range Offroad. It’s definitely pretty damn beefy but just slightly throws a wrench in my design. It’s overall height is about 1.5” higher than I was hoping for. I can grind it down a .5” or so, or modify it to make it a little lower like I originally had planned. But that’s probably not gonna happen. More work, and I probably won’t have a whole lot of time to knock out this project, which is why I’m not making all these parts myself in the first place. The good thing though, is that it raises my roll center about 1.5” which will be super nice for controlling the body roll. The part I don’t like is that it limits my future up travel since the upper links will contact the body sooner. Right now I have about 6” of up travel at ride height, my future plans were for my up travel to be around 9-10”. Now I’m probably going to be stuck with 8” at the most without cutting into the floor of my cargo area. I really don’t want to do that if I can avoid it.
The tower being that little bit taller also changes my anti-squat, making it even higher. This causes me to have to mount the lower links further forward or lower on the frame side to level out the lower links and lower the A/S. Therefore less ground clearance. Really it’s not that big of a deal but I’d rather see it go the other way if possible.
Another thing that kinda bugged me about this part is that it came pre-welded, with kinda crappy welds. I would have rather had it come as separate pieces and weld it up myself. Oh well, it’s not that big of a deal.

 

[theesotericone]

The tower being that little bit taller also changes my anti-squat, making it even higher. This causes me to have to mount the lower links further forward or lower on the frame side to level out the lower links and lower the A/S. Therefore less ground clearance. Really it’s not that big of a deal but I’d rather see it go the other way if possible.

What's your target for anti-squat? You seem to wheel some technical stuff as well as desert romp so I'm curious what your shooting for.

 

[AssBurns]

What's your target for anti-squat? You seem to wheel some technical stuff as well as desert romp so I'm curious what your shooting for.

The lower the better really. If I can get it below 80% I’d be happy though. If I can get closer to 50% that would probably be ideal. There are a ton of different options on high vs low A/S. My biggest dilemma right now is belly clearance. That’s one of the big reasons for doing this. I can easily get my A/S lower if I lower the frame side lower link mounts but I really want to keep as much clearance as possible since I’m only trying to run a 20” frame height. Right now I have it calculated in the 90-100% range. It’s really all about what are you willing to sacrifice when designing this stuff.