AssBurns 2000 Limited Build Thread

Well crap. Well done Steven. If I had a nickel for every name I've screwed up. I'm excited to see how you tub the rear. I don't think I've seen that before.

Hahah the funny part about you messing up my name, is that I messed up your name the other day too. We were talking about the Calico trip and the Anza trip that you told me about. I mentioned your name as JBurt, and my wife said "WHO?". I scratched my head and thought, is it Jim or Jason or ??...

I don't think I've seen anyone tubbing the wheel wells like I plan to either. My long term goal is to have the bump stops set to be about 1/2" below the frame rail to get a few more inches of up travel compared to stock. Being able to tuck 35's another 3" higher than stock is gonna take some work.

That's a pretty sweet weekend you had there buddy. Very nicely done.

I'm not gonna lie. I'm really wanting to get the Dusy done. If all three of us end up on the trail I'm pretty sure we'll be just fine. I'll still be rocking my 33's so I'll be the lowest ground clearance in the group. Damn, now I really need to get that crawl box in. lol

Thanks!

You'll just have to be a better driver than us if you are on 33's. Well you are on 295's, right? At least you'll be dual locked and dual cased by then. I'm just gonna be happy to be dual locked. If things work out quickly, I might be able to have my t-case clocked by then too. That'll give me another 3' or so clearance for a flat belly. :D
 
Saw this on instagram yesterday, great work! Patiently waiting it to be done now.. but it's looking awesome! Also curious to see how you implement the hydro bumps
 
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Knocked out some major work this weekend on the 4-link. For the most part things went pretty smoothly since I did a lot of prepping prior to this weekend and that took just about all the guesswork out.

All I can say right now is "Holy Crap!!!" That looks sexy as Hell! Great work!
 
Nice fab work! Not having that pesky gas tank in the way must be nice. Is there a reason you can’t just clock the bump cans enough to clearance the tires?
 
Saw this on instagram yesterday, great work! Patiently waiting it to be done now.. but it's looking awesome! Also curious to see how you implement the hydro bumps

Thanks dude! I'm super excited to get it done and in the dirt. Hydro bumps will be frenched into the frame rails, and I'll be using the lower link brackets as a strike pad. Not sure how soon I will be able to knock that out though. It's hard to find a free weekend to work on the rig these days.

All I can say right now is "Holy Crap!!!" That looks sexy as Hell! Great work!

Thank you! I am very happy how it turned out according to plans.
 
Nice fab work! Not having that pesky gas tank in the way must be nice. Is there a reason you can’t just clock the bump cans enough to clearance the tires?

Thanks! Yeah the gas tank relocation is now well worth all the effort and frustration. The added room for this, plus the increased ground clearance is gonna be a huge improvement over stock.

For the bumps, I need them to contact the strike pad at a perpendicular 90* angle. If it makes contact at less than a 90* angle, it puts more stress on the bump stop shaft, as well as lessens the dampening effectiveness.
 
Thanks! Yeah the gas tank relocation is now well worth all the effort and frustration. The added room for this, plus the increased ground clearance is gonna be a huge improvement over stock.

For the bumps, I need them to contact the strike pad at a perpendicular 90* angle. If it makes contact at less than a 90* angle, it puts more stress on the bump stop shaft, as well as lessens the dampening effectiveness.

I didn’t mean rotate the angle of contact but rather spin the cans laterally towards the frame to either side. Just spin it a little to get the bolts away from the rubber. Not sure if there’s enough room to make it work.
 
I didn’t mean rotate the angle of contact but rather spin the cans laterally towards the frame to either side. Just spin it a little to get the bolts away from the rubber. Not sure if there’s enough room to make it work.

Oh! Gotcha! I still don't think I'll have enough clearance without frenching them into the frame, but I will definitely check into that to see though. Thanks for the idea. Hopefully it's that easy.
 
Not any real updates. I’ve gotten almost everything taken care of at this point but ran into some small obstacles that made some delays in getting it back on the road.

I knew I had to cut my bumper back quite a bit since I pushed my axle back a few inches. I rubbed my bumper just a tiny bit at full bump before and now I plan to have a couple more inches of up travel than I had before too, so I cut the bumper back 4.5”. Hopefully that’s enough to clear at full compression. I got done cutting and decided to throw a new coat of paint on it, so that was a delay in putting it on.

Well the next day after my bumper was dry, I went to install it and the frame was now too narrow for the bumper to slide on by about 5/16”. I tried to spread it with a hi-lift but that alone didn’t quite work. The frame would just spring back. So I went ahead and spread it again with a hi-lift but used a torch to heat up the frame rail enough to relieve some tension. After heating it up, I let it sit for a while to cool down completely while the hi-lift was still on there keeping pressure. I pulled it off, and sure enough it worked! It was about 1/16” narrower then the bumper mounting width but the bumper was still able to slide on with some pressure and some taps (not big swings) of a deadblow hammer to get it lined up where it needed to be. All was good there and I was able to sleep happily that night [emoji482]

Well yesterday I got home from a class out of town, and figured I’d go ahead and install my fuel tank that was sitting on my side yard. I quickly realized that my sisters dog chewed off the quick connect plug. I was pretty pissed by this point. Well I went ahead and used some bullet connectors to fix the wiring. Not perfect but it’ll work. Now I get to putting on the fuel tank. It’s a lot tighter fit now with the crossmember being pushed back within 1/2” of the tank. Also the mounting points for the bolts were off just a little bit, not a lot but just enough that I had to wallow out a couple holes by a hair to fit perfect.

Now I was able to fill the tank with fuel. Put back the 2 gallons that were in it when I dropped the tank (remember that), and put in another 5 gallons. I reconnected the battery and gave it a shot. It turns over but Doesn’t fire up. I tried a few more times thinking the fuel pump needs to fill the lines but I quickly realized that it shouldn’t tank more that a few tries to get fuel throughout the system. So I disconnect the fuel filter and have my wife turn it over. No fuel pressure. I can hear/feel the fuel pump motor but no pressure, just some drips. Well I think I made a stupid decision to drive it with very low fuel levels so there wouldn’t be much fuel when I dropped the tank. Unfortunately I think that was a terrible idea and probably burnt up the fuel pump. I knew better but that’s what I get for trying to take shortcuts.

Now I need a new fuel pump. Good thing is I’ll have a new connector since the last one got chewed up by the dog. It’s always something though. I’m just glad I don’t have any specific timeline to get this done, and have a second vehicle. I’m just over working on it, not because it’s hard or anything, but because I just want to drive it already. It’ll be worth the effort though.

Once I get it started, I can get to bleeding the brakes, then take it to a muffler shop to replace the rear cat with a muffler and replace the front car with a new one. Then one of these days get to tubbing the wheel wells and installing the hydro bumps.
 
Again. Not much is happening but some things are making small progress. Still haven’t driven it yet since I did the 4 link. Been crazy busy the past few weeks and spent a bunch of money on other life things that take priority over the 4runner. Fuel pump is definitely dead. I pulled all the fuel lines to see if I hooked something up backwards by accident. Still no fuel pressure. So I still need a new fuel pump before I can drive it.

Since it’s been down, and I’ve been trying not to spend any more money, I figured I might as well start making room for tires. Since I pushed my axle back a few inches and I will be getting a couple more inches of up travel, I will need to do some serious clearancing to clear the body. First thing I did was pull the coils and old bump stops last night and started cycling the suspension. I quickly found out that something was stopping my up travel. My shocks still had 2” of shock shaft left but the axle wasn’t going up anymore. I got under and saw that my truss was hitting the body under the floor of the cargo area. I kinda knew this was going to happen but didn’t think it was going to be that significant. I figured I’d just cut a little of that brace out and have plenty of room.

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So at this point I had a couple options and none of them I was a big fan of.
1) I could just extend my bump stops and lose some of the potential shock travel.
2) I could raise my lower shock mounts along with bumps to limit my up travel but increase my down travel and still use all my potential shock travel.
3) I could cut out the body where things are hitting.
Obviously I considered all my options and listened to my gut instinct.

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Naturally I pulled out the saw and got to cutting the body out of the way. I started by marking the general section that needed to be cut out. Then got a drill bit and drill some holes from the bottom up so I knew where to start cutting from the top. Then grabbed the battery powered sawsall and started the first cut. The battery was almost dead and couldn’t get through more than a couple inches before completely dying, so I went to grab a new battery off the charger. Charger was never plugged in and none of the other 3 batteries were charged. I was kind of annoyed but I probably had no one else to blame but myself. So I grabbed the angle grinder and got a little further before the already small cutting wheel was too small to cut with. I went to reach for a new one but I had no more left. Can’t blame anyone but myself for not buying more when I knew I was using the last one last time I used it. So I grabbed the corded sawsall and realized that I broke a blade off inside the chuck and couldn’t get the broken piece out last time I used it cutting off the crossmembers. Now I was just a little more annoyed but again, I had no one else to blame. So I pulled some things apart and got the broken piece out relatively quickly. Back to cutting I went. A few minutes later, I had a nice hole in the floor of my cargo area.

I immediately jacked the axle up to check for clearance. First thing to hit now was the tires on the fender. Not a big deal at all since I was planning on cutting that stuff out soon anyways. So I pulled the tires to see what hits next. Good news is it was the stock bump stop mount that was touching the LCA mount on the axle. That will be getting cut off soon too since I have those hydro bumps I will be swapping in it’s place. At this point I only have maybe 1/2” of shock shaft showing. Basically that is where I will set my bump. I was also touching the upper link on the body underneath the rear passenger seat where the stock jack sits. Quick work with a hammer and 2x4, I was able to make a small dent to let it clear easily.

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The upper links/truss only stick up into the cab about 1/2”. Not bad..

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While I was at it, I went ahead and measure my vertical wheel travel. Measuring from the axle tube to the stock bump stop mount edge, I measured 14” at full droop and 1/2” at what will be full bump. Still have about 1/2” of shock shaft showing at this point. So my potential wheel travel is about 13.5”

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Another something cool that worked out very well is the lack of change in pinion angle. I set it to be 0° at full droop, and even at full bump there is no noticeable change.

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Now for the concerns... With all that up travel I just thought about my coils over compressing and basically blowing out my upper coil buckets. At full bump I measured about 4.5” of room from the upper and lower coil buckets. I measured what the maximum height would be when the 8 wrap coil is fully compressed. That’s only 4.25”. So only 1/4” of wiggle room is really not much and sound like a gamble. I’ve already been looking into different coil options that are a lower ride height so if I possibly find some 7 wrap coils, I could get the lower ride height in looking for and having a shorter compressed height that I need. Or I could just lower the bump stops about 1/2” to give a little more wiggle room. We’ll see if I can find a better coil option by the time I get around to setting up bump stops.

So a couple things to ask from you guys. If anyone knows of some 7 wraps for sale or trade for 8 wraps, please let me know.
Also if you have 7 wraps or maybe superflexes, could you measure what the collapsed spring height would be. How I measured was the coil diameter x by the number of wraps. I counted the number of wraps at the bottom pigtail to the top flat edge, then minus a wrap because of how the coil bucket steps down on the axle side. I hope that makes sense..





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The upper links/truss only stick up into the cab about 1/2”. Not bad..
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Only 1/2"?!
You should have taken the hint when you ran into all the cutting tool challenges. A little heat and a BFH and you could have given your un-cut floor a little clearance hump . Of course, after cutting the brace out first.
Lookin good man. The linear pinion angle throughout the travel range is awesome. Aside from the fuel pump, it's ready to rip?? I can't even imagine having the 4-link all done, and not even be able to drive it!
 
Seems like switching rear coils is a bigger sacrifice than losing 1/2” of travel if you are happy with the ride height and load capacity of them but if you’re not happy I can see the reasoning.
 
Only 1/2"?!
You should have taken the hint when you ran into all the cutting tool challenges. A little heat and a BFH and you could have given your un-cut floor a little clearance hump . Of course, after cutting the brace out first.
Lookin good man. The linear pinion angle throughout the travel range is awesome. Aside from the fuel pump, it's ready to rip?? I can't even imagine having the 4-link all done, and not even be able to drive it!

Eh, I only like to hit things with a hammer so much before it starts to turn to an irreversible mess. A nice clean cut and boxed section will be a much cleaner option. An I will know for sure that I have the clearance.

Yeah as far as I know, i just need to replace the fuel pump, bleed the brakes, and tighten the jam nuts on the links to get it going. It's been tough not driving it but I've been so busy lately that I haven't had a lot of time to care.

Seems like switching rear coils is a bigger sacrifice than losing 1/2” of travel if you are happy with the ride height and load capacity of them but if you’re not happy I can see the reasoning.

I would like to have about .5" - 1" lower ride height in the rear, so new coils will be be knocking out two birds with one stone. I've been looking around for a better coil option for a long time but I can't find anything close to what I want. I would love to have something with a little taller free height and a softer spring rate for a lower ride height. That's damn near impossible to find, so I am either going to find some 7 wraps or cut my 8 wraps down a bit.
 
Sound all to familiar. Those other things can be a huge money suck from the fun things. Good to see your almost there.



It’s a bummer for sure. I’ve been starting to go a little crazy not going wheeling in such a long time. It’s weird. Normally when my wife and I get bored we just jump in the truck and go wheeling and drink a few beers in the middle of nowhere. Last weekend I was too tired and sore from Mt Whitney that I didn’t want to work on anything but couldn’t go wheeling. So we just sat in the garage and drank beers instead.

I honestly don’t even know when I’ll have a free weekend to take care of things. I’m moving this weekend and will be busy settling into the new place for the next couple weeks. Then it’s going to be hot as hell from here on out so my motivation is going to go away really quickly. I still have to get my front end fixed somewhere in the next month or so too..

I’m just hoping I can find the time to get things done before Dusy Ershim. I’m gonna be really bummed if I can’t make it but I think I can find the motivation to make that happen some way or another.
 
I’m just hoping I can find the time to get things done before Dusy Ershim. I’m gonna be really bummed if I can’t make it but I think I can find the motivation to make that happen some way or another.

I bet the moving transition will be pretty painless.

I don't even know if I'll have time at this point to get the duals in before the Dusy. Work has been insanely stressful. My boss has a huge remodel that I got put in charge of. By the time the weekend comes all I want to do is shut my brain off. Hopefully we'll both get done but the heat sucks a lot of fun out of wrenching.
 
Yeah I’m sure the moving part won’t be too bad. Between my dad and brother helping, we are usually pretty efficient at getting things done. It’s just getting settled in the new place that is gonna kill this weekend and next.
I feel you on work sucking the energy out of you by the end of the week. I just had two weekends that I had classes all day Saturday and Sunday then after work Monday. Then next Monday I had my license test, then took a couple days off for the backpacking trip which made my brain unwind, but physically I was whooped! It’s crazy how I purposely try not to make plans but for some reason I never have time anymore. Adulting sucks.

Luckily it shouldn’t take too long to setup the front diff once I get around to it. It’s the fender tubbing and setting up the new bump stops that are gonna be time killers.
 

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