Rocket61
New member
would you mind posting a pic when you're done?
Audio Upgrade?
- Thread starter jjolles
- Start date
would you mind posting a pic when you're done?
2016 4Runner SR5
Senior Member
Absolutely however plans have changed. Going with (2) 6" Hertz HV165L woofers in each door, a single HV70 mid in each corner of the dash in the factory locations, and a pair of HT25 tweeters in a currently unknown location. Rear doors and tailgate will get a pair of HCX165 2 ways. LOTS of sound deadening as well of course. Subwoofer will be a single 10" Image Dynamics woofer in the right rear quarter panel, same as if it were the stock sub. I will also be running 3 ARC Audio amps for a total of 11 channels of output and roughly 1800 watts of true RMS power. Tailgate is the only part that's done so far. I've added so much deadening material that I actually need stronger struts. The tailgate doesn't want to stay open too well anymore.
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What adapters/cables will be needed to run 6.5 in the front doors and to install the tweeters in the dash? Will the two links below work?
https://www.amazon.com/Aftermarket-Plastic-Speaker-Adapter-Highlander/dp/B007ZQGZWO/ref=pd_bxgy_107_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B007ZQGZWO&pd_rd_r=4YKSXS2EZP5YXY25D0Y0&pd_rd_w=FUYZq&pd_rd_wg=hSRSe&psc=1&refRID=4YKSXS2EZP5YXY25D0Y0
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BLMBHPW/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_9?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1T3AW1B06XC6M
I will be taking the runner to get professionally installed.
I would like to stick with Rockford or JL subs as I like the grilles available for protection and I am constantly putting wetsuits, surfboards, and gym gear in my car and need to keep it covered.
Will anyone critique my amazon cart please?
https://www.amazon.com/hz/wishlist/ls/2D60BTV7PBJ0F?
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The tweeter mount will work, the door mount however is only for the rear doors / hatch. The factory front door is a 6x9. Tacotunes sells an adapter, or the shop can fab one up out of 1/2"MDF or something. As for wiring, the shop should have no problem, but doing it right does take a minute, I had about 3-4 hours in mine.
Toyota 4Runner 6.5 6.75 Heavy Duty Speaker Adapter Front Door Installation Kit
What cutout do I need?
Do I need the amazon speaker adapters for the rear/hatch doors as well or can the stock ones be used. Any wirings that I need provide?Ive only provided speakers/sub/amp in the past so doing the whole package is new to me.
Thoughts on the amazon list? Also considering the jl rd900/5 and 10w3 combo as well. I just dont know if I will want that much bass. I do hate the rockford bass knobs though that I would have to install. The JL ones are clean.
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Do you think the jl setup is really in a different league?
Cutout depends on the speaker, whatever you choose should tell you what size cutout you need.
Yes you should get a pair for the doors and rear hatch as well. The speakers may line up, but you'll get a better seal with a mounting bracket (and some foam on both the speaker/mount mating as well as the mount/door mate).
The shop should have all the little connectors they need / what they like to use. I just used some basic spade connectors and inserted into the harness.
The cart is a system for sure, not as familiar with what that will sound like, but you are comparing apples to oranges if you are considering the JL system as well. Two different animals, and over double the price to boot. The labor to install it will be the same though. As I said earlier, for the most part, you get what you pay for. With audio, there is a point of diminishing returns, but I don't think you are approaching that yet. That whole system is only $80 more than I paid for JL C2 components up front and C2 coax in the rear... speakers only. It's very personal though and only you can decide what is important to you. You'll be louder than me, but that's not what I'm after at this time.
So you're saying yours will sound better? Thats what I am after.
Can't say for sure, as that is very subjective and I have not heard the Rockfords. I do, however, have a pair of $50 Polks in my golf cart that I would not consider for the 4R. I bought them as semi disposable, since they are in a golf cart.
IMO, buy the best you are comfortable paying for. Don't just go for the deal because you will constantly wonder what if. I did this when I bought my tri bike years ago, went with the Ceepo Venom because it was a good deal. I like it fine and it meets my needs, but every time I see a Cervelo P3 ride by I'm a bit jealous.
keyser_soze
New member
Tacotunes adapters They have tweeter adapters and speaker harness adapyters as well. Its not cheap compared to the stuff on amazon but its probably cheaper than a shop would charge to make their own.
This changes a lot. A good shop wont need help with anything.
My opinion on your amazon list:
- The rockford amp costs more and make less power than the pioneer that I linked. It is also 16.5" long. It wont fit horizontally under the seat, I cant remember what the limit is mounted the length of the vehicle, but it might interfere with the rear floormats and foot area of the rear passengers. Just something to consider.
- you would need the 2ohm subwoofer not the 4.
- Rockford isnt known for their speakers, personally I would stick with the infinity's I linked. I'm also not a fan of internal crossovers.
I noticed you linked all rockford stuff. There is no need to keep everything the same brand from speakers to sub to amp.
The RD900/5 is a $550 amp. 10w3s are $270.... Both are amazing quality but its not an apples to apples comparison with the mid range stuff you have been talking about. A JL C2 system will cost you $1600, it will sound great, and if money is not an issue then get it. Literally double the price of the budget system we have been talking about, which would sound good as well.
I touched on this above. Yes it is in a different league, its literally double the price. It should sound better, but it is not going to be a night and day difference. Sound is subjective
This all comes down to budget and goals. You have to be honest with both. The budget system would meet 90% of peoples needs in terms of sound. The other 10% are audiophiles or SPL guys.
[MENTION=124049]keyser_soze[/MENTION] is right on and I agree with everything posted. I was very close to the Infinity speakers, but I didn't like the way the impedance of the speakers lined up when running parallel to the head unit, but they are quality speakers.
It can't be said enough, buy what you are comfortable spending and enjoy it, otherwise you'll second guess your decision the whole time you own it. That's why I'm doing the JL system. I have heard lots of them in boats. My boat I went cheap (relatively) and used an Orion monoblock amp and a pair of Orion 10" subs (under a full JL 7" component top end, 8 of em). Sounded good, but those guys with the JL subs thumped so much harder. This time I'm getting what, in my mind, sounds best. Because of that, it will sound GREAT to me, and that is really all that matters.
GaSR5, Price out your "ideal" system that you can be certain you'll be happy with. If that price doesn't make you sick to your stomach, go get it. If you are uncomfortable with it, either do it in phases, or start peeling back some of the pieces to something more budget friendly until you get what makes you happy.
It can't be said enough, buy what you are comfortable spending and enjoy it, otherwise you'll second guess your decision the whole time you own it. That's why I'm doing the JL system. I have heard lots of them in boats. My boat I went cheap (relatively) and used an Orion monoblock amp and a pair of Orion 10" subs (under a full JL 7" component top end, 8 of em). Sounded good, but those guys with the JL subs thumped so much harder. This time I'm getting what, in my mind, sounds best. Because of that, it will sound GREAT to me, and that is really all that matters.
GaSR5, Price out your "ideal" system that you can be certain you'll be happy with. If that price doesn't make you sick to your stomach, go get it. If you are uncomfortable with it, either do it in phases, or start peeling back some of the pieces to something more budget friendly until you get what makes you happy.
keyser_soze
New member
This is irrelevant with a component set because of the crossover, and you aren't using the factory wiring past the door speaker anyways. It especially wont mater when ran off an amp.
Right? I could be wrong, I know a little, but I'm not a audio expert.
I think [MENTION=152751]GAsr5[/MENTION] is overthinking this. The difference between the systems will be smaller than he thinks. If he has the money for JL stuff go for it, they are great quality and if you every have any issues they stand behind their product... At the same time I think he would be 95% as happy with the "budget" system.
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Was more concerned about the rears, the Reference coax system impedance is 3ohm, and parallel to the hatch would show the head unit 1.5ohm. I'm not sure when I'm going to get the amp and sub added, so I didn't want to put strain on the head unit and damage it in the mean time. Going up to the Kappas put the price in line with the JL C2s, and I'd just rather have those.
I probably overthunk that too, but I wan a JL system darnit, and it helped me convince myself.
keyser_soze
New member
Oh I wasn't even thinking about the rears.
Have you guys ever listened to a system without rear speakers? you really can't tell they aren't there. I had my rears disconnected for a while when I had my DSP out of the truck and I couldn't really tell the difference. I only use them as rear fill. No need to listen to underpowered, lesser quality rear speakers when I have nice amped components in the front. They mess with the sound stage as well.
Think of it like this... You are only listening to 2 channel stereo. So why run the same sound out of 3 pairs of speakers at the same time? Now a DSP can fix the timing but your source is still 2 channel, there is no need to have the sound coming fro behind you its not like the front speakers cant fill the small volume of a car.
I have a coworker who was/is big into car audio, he said that most of the guys at the competitions don't have rear speakers. After listening to their reasoning, and their systems I don't see the need. Plus you can put the money needed for rear speakers/amp towards better fronts/amp/dsp.
keyser_soze
New member
They can hear it just fine without turning it up. The rear seats are 3 feet behind the fronts... Do this as a test: stand in front of your TV at normal volume, now take 2 steps backwards, sounds the same no? Maybe at really low volumes this would come into play but Im really not worried about it.
You are entitled to your opinion, but for a 2 channel stereo source rears are not necessary and in a basic car system without a DSP they take away from the sound stage. When you go to a concert the band/musician/speakers are in front of you for a reason.
True I guess. I just have my front doors and hatch open. The hatch is mostly for the sub, the speakers face downwards.
For 2014+ model years the JBL system is only in the Limited
Forgive my ignorance then, but how do you stop that incessant key in the ignition ding?
Also, my components sound like trash outside the car with the door open, since the tweeters are still in the car firing at the window and only the midrange driver is actually playing outside the car.
We are getting pretty off topic here though, but at concert, the speakers are in front of you yes, but there is also nothing else in between, and also not any road noise coming from behind you.
The rears, while not nearly as important, do provide some level of help to the overall sound. Even at low volumes, the music "gets in the way" of the road noise and your mind will naturally tune out the excess noise if the majority of the sound coming from the back is the same as what's coming from the front.
Again, I don't think you are wrong, just that there are other correct answers. In the competition environment, competitions are done while the car is sitting still with the engine running, so no extraneous noise and distractions.
