Aux switch wiring / panel removal

[Sgt. Rock]

I'm about to wire 2 OTRATTW switches for driving lights and a set of rear lights on my 2011 SR5. I'm planning on using the two switch blanks next to the inverter switch. Anybody have pictures of the removal of the left lower dash panel? What wire do I tap into so the switch lights turn on/off with the other dash lights?

The driving lights came with a harness. I'll have to wire the rear lights (an old set of small driving lights) myself using a relay and inline fuse in the hot wire, the same as KC's harness. I plan on mounting the rear lights in the "honeycomb" panels in the rear bumper facia.

 

[Okki]

I'm about to wire 2 OTRATTW switches for driving lights and a set of rear lights on my 2011 SR5. I'm planning on using the two switch blanks next to the inverter switch. Anybody have pictures of the removal of the left lower dash panel? What wire do I tap into so the switch lights turn on/off with the other dash lights?

The driving lights came with a harness. I'll have to wire the rear lights (an old set of small driving lights) myself using a relay and inline fuse in the hot wire, the same as KC's harness. I plan on mounting the rear lights in the "honeycomb" panels in the rear bumper facia.

Depending on what switches you ordered, they will not fit in the OEM slots. You maywant to check out my build thread for more details on wiring additional switches.

Okki

 

[Sgt. Rock]

Okki,

Thanks for the heads-up on the manuals. I've tried several times and can't get them to download...something about not finding the destination folder...the kind of stuff every fifth grade kid understands!

I enlarged the stock switch holes for the OTRATTW switches and will probably hook-up the front driving lights today. I still have to get a relay, a pair of inline fuses and some wire and wire loom for the back lights.

I plan on mounting the relay in the jack compartment and running the power for the lights and the switch wires through the loom. If I can't get the door sill panels off without damaging them, I'll just run the wire outside along the frame.

I think I'll try mounting a fire extinguisher like you did.

Appreciate your help.

 

[mace.]

If you end up running along the frame (that's what I did) to the back it might be easier / quicker just to mount the relay up front near the other one so you only have to run one wire to the back.

 

[Sgt. Rock]

That's a good idea. I thought that the relay was supposed to be as close to the lights as possible. If it doesn't make a difference (and since it worked for you it obviously doesn't) that's what I'll do.

 

[mace.]

I don't think it should matter as long as you run appropriate gauge wire to the lights. (Maybe someone can chime in to confirm). If you are running LEDs back there, then you won't need anything heavy duty. My two aux lights back there only draw 1.4 amps each.

I like the idea of using the honeycomb area. Mine are mounted underneath the bumper and while they are low profile, they have been nearly ripped off on obstacles.

 

[Jono.ful]

the otrattw switches do not fit in the stock openings, but that doesn't mean they cannot be made to fit.

these blanks can easily be popped out by reaching up from the bottom, no further disassembly required. I used a dremel to enlarge the hole in both height and width. after that, its simply a matter of running the wire.

 

[Viper45]

the otrattw switches do not fit in the stock openings, but that doesn't mean they cannot be made to fit.

these blanks can easily be popped out by reaching up from the bottom, no further disassembly required. I used a dremel to enlarge the hole in both height and width. after that, its simply a matter of running the wire.

Yes, but do they fit side to side in the OEM blanks?

 

[Jono.ful]

Yes, but do they fit side to side in the OEM blanks?

good question, eyeballing it, it looks like they SHOULD. I have another switch that I'm planning to land next to that one, I just don't have the lights that said switch is going to control yet.

 

[Jono.ful]

its more of an up and down issue than a side to side one. here are a couple shots of the blank I removed and another otrattw switch

 

[Viper45]

Sweet! please post your results when you get a chance. My switches are currently in-route so I cannot check myself yet. The bulge on the sides makes me think it'll be a tight fit either way and there might be rubbing. Or one will have to stagger the OEM and OTRATTW switches to get them to work.

 

[Jono.ful]

it'll definitely be a tight fit. honestly, it probably be a month or two before I get around to putting the fogs on, as I plan to work them around a winch/winch plate that has yet to be ordered. So I'll be as interested as you are to find out about fitment of the switches.

 

[Viper45]

I'll be at work for the next few weeks, you might actually beat me to it. But I plan on taking some crappy cell phone pics when I do start; I'll post 'em up for sure.

 

[Sgt. Rock]

good question, eyeballing it, it looks like they SHOULD. I have another switch that I'm planning to land next to that one, I just don't have the lights that said switch is going to control yet.

I enlarged the blank fathers out on the RSCA row for the front light switch and plan to put the rear light switch in the lower single blank. If they are too tight to fit side by side, it will be too late to change plans once the holes are enlarged. I'm hoping somebody has mounted them side by side has some pictures before I do anymore cutting. An alternative, although it might not look right, would be to move the stock "push" switches around, alternating between push switch and tiggle switch.

 

[eddiebx]

I enlarged the blank fathers out on the RSCA row for the front light switch and plan to put the rear light switch in the lower single blank. If they are too tight to fit side by side, it will be too late to change plans once the holes are enlarged. I'm hoping somebody has mounted them side by side has some pictures before I do anymore cutting. An alternative, although it might not look right, would be to move the stock "push" switches around, alternating between push switch and tiggle switch.

This is the only one I've seen side by side: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/87982-rearview-camera-mod-nav-8.html#post1475180

But I am not sure how the spacing is up there vs the lower 4 position area...

Moving the switches around like you suggested is definitely a plan, but keep in mind that most of the switch slots are keyed differently (RSCA switch can't be easily put into the wiper defrost spot and vice versa), so you need to modify the switches or the slots a little bit to fit.

 

[Antman]

This is the only one I've seen side by side: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/87982-rearview-camera-mod-nav-8.html#post1475180

.... but keep in mind that most of the switch slots are keyed differently (RSCA switch can't be easily put into the wiper defrost spot and vice versa), so you need to modify the switches or the slots a little bit to fit.

The dash /switch plastic is so soft you can easily trim any obstructing tabs with a small hobby knife. All my factory switches fit in any hole now, LOL.

 

[harper7]

This is the only one I've seen side by side: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/87982-rearview-camera-mod-nav-8.html#post1475180

But I am not sure how the spacing is up there vs the lower 4 position area...

Moving the switches around like you suggested is definitely a plan, but keep in mind that most of the switch slots are keyed differently (RSCA switch can't be easily put into the wiper defrost spot and vice versa), so you need to modify the switches or the slots a little bit to fit.

The dash /switch plastic is so soft you can easily trim any obstructing tabs with a small hobby knife. All my factory switches fit in any hole now, LOL.

Ya ,That's how I did mine too to move them around so I could get the 4 stock ones side by side in a row and leave out the blanks.
I think that row with 4 would be too small for 4 OTRATTW switches as it has tighter spacing.

 

[Sgt. Rock]

Wish I thought of doing it this way before I enlarged the blank in the bank of four! Maybe I'll try to figure out a way to put the 4 factory switches in the lower bank. I just have to find a way to make the original blank hole smaller....again. This set-ups truly INSPIRATIONAL!

 

[Sgt. Rock]

The dash /switch plastic is so soft you can easily trim any obstructing tabs with a small hobby knife. All my factory switches fit in any hole now, LOL.

Antman,

Any ideas on making an enlarged blank hole smaller...I should have checked the side by side size before I enlarged one of the blanks in the lower bank!

 

[Antman]

Antman,

Any ideas on making an enlarged blank hole smaller...I should have checked the side by side size before I enlarged one of the blanks in the lower bank!

Honestly, it would be easier to buy another lower dash panel.

You could make a faceplate that fits into the dash indentation with 4 perfect holes for the switches. It wouldn't be easy because the factory switches fit flush with the surface...

Got a pic of the big hole? If the outside surface is still untouched there is hope!