B&M 70268 and Deso on a 2002

jjf8

jjf8

New member
Just read thru the list of threads regarding trans coolers and the pros and cons of by-passing or not by-passing. Most of the info is from the West / Southern parts of the country, not the East Coast where I am,

Just bought a 2002 Gen 3 with 77K.. Due to the age, going to replace the radiator but with East Coast (Philly) winters , would by-passing and adding a B&M 70268 be a good idea ? I can run thru the radiator then the cooler, but I am not towing so do I really need the cooler ?. By-passing elimates the potential milkshake issue, but I have concerns about hard shifting when it gets very cold as it tends to here and up in the mountains .
Would a few minutes of warm up do it ? Avoiding the issue is preferred.

Deso rads seem to mentioned a lot, but Amazon says the B&M 70268 is not compatible with my 2002 SR5. Is that the right model # ?

Thanx,, Great info here.
 
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I'm up in Calgary, Alberta 4 months of the year and in Thunder Bay, Ontario for the other 8.
I decided to bypass to eliminate the milkshake and use a fluid control thermostat to make sure the new radiator isn't cooling when it doesnt need to. I havent installed it yet but I figure if the fluid is too cold I could always pick up a katz magnetic heater.

EDIT: I just wanted to add that I went with a Hayden 679 and a Derale fluid control thermostat.
 
Do the B&M 70268. It's good insurance against the pink milkshake in the future. You shouldn't have any problems with the shifting in the cold.

Amazon says it doesn't fit, but that's only because it's Universal cooler, not marked for a specific vehicle in their system. You could pretty much hook it up to any vehicle.
 
I'm across the bridge, I run a 70268 in my 1997-its great, not really a compatibility thing its universal
 
There won't be any issues with hard shifting when cold. When you think about it, the tranny fluid temp will be the same with or without a B&M cooler for the first 10-15 minutes of your drive anyways.
 
Brveagle said:
There won't be any issues with hard shifting when cold. When you think about it, the tranny fluid temp will be the same with or without a B&M cooler for the first 10-15 minutes of your drive anyways.
Click to expand...
This isnt necessarily true. The stock setup has the engine and transission share the same radiator. As the engine warms up, it will warm up the transmission.
 
The only problem I have or had is with first going into secondin extremely cold and when i dont warm it up.But that's Normal on this vehicle, with or without the external cooler. Previous owner told me about the problem. Advised me to warm it up in winter. What I do if I don't have time to really warm it up, is that I drive slowly until it goes into second.
Second this cooler has a resistor that Controlled by viscosity, thicker ATF is returned directly to lube through two bypass openings in the stacked plate core, while thinner ATF is directed through the core to cool as operating temperatures increase.
 
zumogo said:
The only problem I have or had is with first going into secondin extremely cold and when i dont warm it up.But that's Normal on this vehicle, with or without the external cooler. Previous owner told me about the problem. Advised me to warm it up in winter. What I do if I don't have time to really warm it up, is that I drive slowly until it goes into second.
Second this cooler has a resistor that Controlled by viscosity, thicker ATF is returned directly to lube through two bypass openings in the stacked plate core, while thinner ATF is directed through the core to cool as operating temperatures increase.
Click to expand...
Got the last part from description
 
jjf8 said:
Just read thru the list of threads regarding trans coolers and the pros and cons of by-passing or not by-passing. Most of the info is from the West / Southern parts of the country, not the East Coast where I am,

Just bought a 2002 Gen 3 with 77K.. Due to the age, going to replace the radiator but with East Coast (Philly) winters , would by-passing and adding a B&M 70268 be a good idea ? I can run thru the radiator then the cooler, but I am not towing so do I really need the cooler ?. By-passing elimates the potential milkshake issue, but I have concerns about hard shifting when it gets very cold as it tends to here and up in the mountains .
Would a few minutes of warm up do it ? Avoiding the issue is preferred.

Deso rads seem to mentioned a lot, but Amazon says the B&M 70268 is not compatible with my 2002 SR5. Is that the right model # ?

Thanx,, Great info here.
Click to expand...

If you are replacing the radiator, there is no need to do the cooler since you've just replaced the source of the issue, the barrier between the coolant and trans fluid. Unless you see yourself towing in the near future, save the money and spend it somewhere else. This comes from someone who's added the cooler myself.

If you are really concerned, get yourself a Bluetooth code reader off Amazon and the Torque Lite app and monitor your transmission temps first. Then decide if you need one or not. Bypassing the radiator into the cooler will most definitely make the transmission take longer to warm up in the winter.

P.S. none of these coolers "fit" since our 4Runners don't come with them. But any of them will work if you use the ties provided in the box, except the ones with the hard lines.
 
gamefreakgc said:
If you are replacing the radiator, there is no need to do the cooler since you've just replaced the source of the issue, the barrier between the coolant and trans fluid. Unless you see yourself towing in the near future, save the money and spend it somewhere else. This comes from someone who's added the cooler myself.

If you are really concerned, get yourself a Bluetooth code reader off Amazon and the Torque Lite app and monitor your transmission temps first. Then decide if you need one or not. Bypassing the radiator into the cooler will most definitely make the transmission take longer to warm up in the winter.

P.S. none of these coolers "fit" since our 4Runners don't come with them. But any of them will work if you use the ties provided in the box, except the ones with the hard lines.
Click to expand...
Not all 3rd gens report transmission temps. I know my '01 does but I'm not sure which ones do or dont.
 
gamefreakgc said:
If you are replacing the radiator, there is no need to do the cooler since you've just replaced the source of the issue, the barrier between the coolant and trans fluid. Unless you see yourself towing in the near future, save the money and spend it somewhere else. This comes from someone who's added the cooler myself.
Click to expand...

This.

But for what it's worth, I'm in Ontario Canada (..so North-East) and I did the 70268 bypass (I'm not planning on changing my radiator anytime soon). The unit has the low temp bypass which will be fine for our colder winters, and so far the trans temps have held around 160F throughout the summer. No complaints.

Again though, if you're putting in a new rad, there's no real point to getting teh external cooler (bypassed or not) unless you plan on doing some major towing or wheeling.
 
redstar said:
This isnt necessarily true. The stock setup has the engine and transission share the same radiator. As the engine warms up, it will warm up the transmission.
Click to expand...

Once the engine is fully warmed up and thermostat kicks open, then what you said is true. But in a cold weather environment like the OP stated, The first 10-15 minutes of driving the cold transmission fluid will not be warmed by the radiator at all.

So the "hard shifts" will occur regardless of a tranny cooler or not.
 
redstar said:
Oh so the stock radiator has a fluid control thermostat as well?
Click to expand...

I'm talking about the thermostat in the engine. If it is 20 Degree F outside, the coolant will be 20 degrees, as well as the transmission fluid (in theory).
Once the motor starts, the transmission is pumping the fluid and warming it up. The radiator coolant stays at 20 degrees until thermostat pops open and allows warm coolant to flow to the radiator.



*Any liquid-cooled car engine has a small device called the thermostat that sits between the engine and the radiator. The thermostat in most cars is about 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter. Its job is to block the flow of coolant to the radiator until the engine has warmed up. When the engine is cold, no coolant flows through the engine. Once the engine reaches its operating temperature (generally about 200 degrees F, 95 degrees C), the thermostat opens. By letting the engine warm up as quickly as possible, the thermostat reduces engine wear, deposits and emissions.
Click to expand...

How does the thermostat in a car's cooling system work? - HowStuffWorks
 
I think what he and others are getting at is that the engine will heat up faster than the transmission due to combustion, which then will warm up the transmission fluid just by proximity in the radiator. So if you remove the heat from the coolant from the equation, the transmission will take longer to heat up since it will only warm up by pressure and not by hotter temps from the engine.
 
Thanx for all the great info. Might just to the radiator swap. Philly winters can get cold, especially if we are up in the Poconos,. Will keep reading up on this, but want to address this issue ASAP in one way or another due to the age of the truck.
 
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