B&M 70268 SuperCooler Transmission Cooler Install on a 3rd Gen

Guys I mounted mine this exact way and I have an atf leak From the lines I've tightened down the clamps used proper line and I don't even know anymore I think I'm just going to try steel lines and adapters

Did you use hose clamps? If so make sure you didn't over tighten it and the hose is not bulging out of the slots. If you used the original clamps, they might be too lose, if you can turn/move the hose with your hand from side to side. The hose itself might have a crack or maybe you didn't push it far enough for the clamp to...clamp on. Also line pressure might have pushed it out if you lubed up the inside too much to make it go on easier... So many variables, could even be the cooler? Where is it leaking from???
 
Guys I mounted mine this exact way and I have an atf leak From the lines I've tightened down the clamps used proper line and I don't even know anymore I think I'm just going to try steel lines and adapters

Dude, take a deep breath, let it out. Repeat. Feel better?

Ok, you should be able to narrow this leak down pretty easily. If the skid plates are on, take them off. Get under the rig and wipe down any ATF mess and take note of suspected areas where the leak might be coming from. Recheck all the hose connections to see if they are properly on the fittings and the clamps are tight. Also check the connections at the external cooler too. Have someone start the engine while you're looking underneath with a flashlight or headlamp. The last guy on this forum with a leak after installing a cooler ended up finding the leak coming from the radiator cooler fitting. I guess the factory didn't tighten it enough. If you're by yourself, just start the engine and quickly get underneath to see what you can see. There's only so many possible spots it can be coming from so you should be able to figure it out. If you don't see anything underneath, double check the external cooler connections.

Good luck and let us know where the leak was.
 
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Just did the install and went well until I saw the return hose leaking where it connects to the tranny. Tried using a second clamp and tightened the hell out of it but still no luck.

Tried to pull it off but couldn't to see what the issue might be. Any ideas?

Also noticed a slow leak on the send lline coming from the tranny as well. Fml
 
Just did the install and went well until I saw the return hose leaking where it connects to the tranny. Tried using a second clamp and tightened the hell out of it but still no luck.

Tried to pull it off but couldn't to see what the issue might be. Any ideas?

Also noticed a slow leak on the send lline coming from the tranny as well. Fml

What size trans hose did you use and what hose clamps? If you used 3/8" hose, you would have had to use different hose clamps than the constant pressure clamps that came with the original lines. The basic screw down hose clamps should work fine for this.

Did you do any damage to the metal lines when taking off the old trans hose? If you creased or dented the ends, that could be the cause of the leak at those connections.
 
Just did the install and went well until I saw the return hose leaking where it connects to the tranny. Tried using a second clamp and tightened the hell out of it but still no luck.

Tried to pull it off but couldn't to see what the issue might be. Any ideas?

Also noticed a slow leak on the send lline coming from the tranny as well. Fml

Regarding the send line, it's possible that you didn't push the hose in all the way, I struggled with that for a bit myself even after putting some trans oil inside the hose so it would slip on better... Also, make sure you're using a new hose and not the old one for both send and return lines. I used the original clamps AND new hose clamps to secure my install. Good Luck!
 
Thanks for the quick responses. So I used the new 3/8" line as instructed in this thread using the basic screw down clamps. I'm hoping to God i didn't do any damage to the metal lines. I used a razor to cut the old line off. One thing my truck suffers from is massive rust and the metal lines were not spared.

How far would I have to push the hose on to get in the right spot. As of now I can't really seem to move the hoses from their current spot


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Thanks for the quick responses. So I used the new 3/8" line as instructed in this thread using the basic screw down clamps. I'm hoping to God i didn't do any damage to the metal lines. I used a razor to cut the old line off. One thing my truck suffers from is massive rust and the metal lines were not spared.

How far would I have to push the hose on to get in the right spot. As of now I can't really seem to move the hoses from their current spot


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With the comment on the rust issue, maybe the end of the metal transmission lines the rubber hoses are connecting to have deteriorated enough that it's not a very smooth round surface so it's not getting a good connection. If you can't find a way to twist off the line, you're going to have to cut it off again. After you get the hose off, inspect the metal line for major imperfections that could be causing the leak. If it's a pretty rough surface, I'd take some emery cloth to smooth it out so the rubber hose gets a better connection.

Here's a tool that I've found is awesome for twisting hoses off their perch. It's an Adjustable Spark Plug Wire Puller. Like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-51750-...-1&keywords=Adjustable+Spark+Plug+Wire+puller

Maybe you could find one of those pullers at a local Harbor Freight or Sears.

Any chance you could share a picture of the connections to the metal transmission lines so maybe we could give more accurate advice on what you should do?
 
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Unfortunately it's now 1:30 in the morning and I have to go back to work doing doubles for the next 4 days then I'm leaving with the fam to go camping....hence the reason I finally got around to the tranny cooler since I'm hauling a pop up trailer through the mountains. I'm guessing you guys are right and the metal lines need to be cleaned up. Since I'm out of time and ready to stick a match in this truck the plan is to bring it to my mechanic and hope and pray he can have it done fast and relatively painless!

Thanks for the responses and I wish I had known of that spark plug puller. I would of bought that Tuesday! Thanks again guys


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Thanks again for all the help. $40 later it turns out that I must have dug in a little too deep with the razor when cutting the original lines as the steel return line had a small puncture hence the leak. My mechanic cut the steel line shorter and reconnected the new hose. Working well! Be careful with those razors!


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Thanks again for all the help. $40 later it turns out that I must have dug in a little too deep with the razor when cutting the original lines as the steel return line had a small puncture hence the leak. My mechanic cut the steel line shorter and reconnected the new hose. Working well! Be careful with those razors!
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I'm guessing the steel lines had deteriorated somewhat due to the rust and that's why you were able to puncture it with the razor. If it wasn't that, I reckon you have gorilla strength.
 
I was wondering if the 70264 at 1.5" is a tight fit on our trucks? I am in SoCal and the temps get pretty hot and with our horrendous traffic maybe the 70268(.75") is small in keeping the trans cool. Was going to not use the radiator cooler at all. So just the B&M keeping things cool.

Thanks!!
 
I was wondering if the 70264 at 1.5" is a tight fit on our trucks? I am in SoCal and the temps get pretty hot and with our horrendous traffic maybe the 70268(.75") is small in keeping the trans cool. Was going to not use the radiator cooler at all. So just the B&M keeping things cool.

Thanks!!

It fits just fine. I have the 70264 mounted sideways on the passenger side of the AC condenser. If you plan on mountain driving, towing, carrying a bunch of gear or people on sustained grades, you might want to reconsider the bypass idea. Some have reported some HIGH temps pushing their rigs hard. Don't forget to turn off the overdrive when driving grades under 60mph. It will lower your trans temps by as much as 20 degrees.
 
Ok cool! I don't plan on working the truck too hard. Just don't want the "milkshake" and high temps while in summer traffic.

As Tim already mentioned, completely bypassing the radiator may not really lower your transmission temps in certain conditions.

There are two schools of thought here: first is separating the tranny cooling from the engine cooling systems. This ensures there will be no pink milkshake but the trade off is ( in my and others opinion ) a less well-rounded and capable tranny cooling system.

The second school of thought and the one a few of us subscribe to, is to run the cooler in-line with your radiator. This does not eliminate the possibility of a milkshake, but if you replace the radiator at the same time ( or you know the radiator to be fairly new and in excellent condition ), you wind up with a more effective and well-rounded cooling system while eliminating most ( not all ) possibility of a pink milkshake.

Now let's be honest here, most of the pink milkshake stories I've seen are due to lack of maintence. By that I mean the radiator was never replaced as part of the truck's routine maintence. So eventually something fails in the radiator. Sometimes it's the radiator itself — sometimes it's the tranny cooler. Waiting for a radiator to fail is just plain dumb. You either cook your engine or poison your transmission. And for what — a radiator is $100-150! Even I'm not that cheap.

The solution is simple; replace your radiator! They are cheap as fu€k and simple as hell to replace. There is no good reason not to replace the radiator if people are concerned about the milkshake.

I determined that my radiator was functioning perfectly fine — I still replaced it though as routine maintenance and part of the cooling system overhaul I just did. I'll replace it again in 100,000 miles or so when I hit the half million mark.

I personally think there is more risk in repeatedly running the tranny fluid at higher temps, than the possibility of a pink milkshake. Heat is to me, more detrimental than the possibility of a pink milkshake — which is mostly preventable. Replacing the radiator as routine maintence, adding an external cooler in-series with the radiator and changing your tranny fluid either by DIY slow-flush or regular drain & fills, will probably be some of the best things to do in terms of aiding transmission longevity.

I should mention however, that most people do none of those things and their A340s last an easy 2-300,000 miles.
 
I installed mine using the zip ties as well. I instLled mine in the opposite direction though. Square tab tab on the cooler side and clipped on the radiator side.
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I will be putting in a new radiator this weekend and going back to running in series
but its been a while
the send line from the tranny goes to which port on the radiator, the straight one or the bent one.....does it matter.
and then of course the outlet goes into the inlet of the external cooler, ( lower port when side mounted like mine) and the outlet of the external cooler back to the tranny, I know that part

if it does not really matter, then I might just connect to the radiator in which ever way makes all the hoses route to the external cooler with the least restrictions and bends
I ran my cooler on the driver side, but more toward the center, thus avoiding having to snake my hoses near the a/c hard lines
and I have a magnafine in series
 
Thanks very much for the post.
I ordered my 70264 online from Amazon as it was my only option to place an order for one.
I went with the thicker one as here in Africa we frequently get stones thrown up and often there is radiator damage - good luck in trying to find a new radiator out here!
It will be a month before my Rad ships from the states to the UK - then my niece will visit us at the end of December so she will bring it out for me .....
190.00 GBP I have paid for the luxury - $243.20USD.:cry2:
I look forward to fitting it and have read this whole thread several times to bring myself up to speed.
Thanks very much Big Fish, real big help.
Moz
 
I will be putting in a new radiator this weekend and going back to running in series
but its been a while
the send line from the tranny goes to which port on the radiator, the straight one or the bent one.....does it matter.
and then of course the outlet goes into the inlet of the external cooler, ( lower port when side mounted like mine) and the outlet of the external cooler back to the tranny, I know that part

if it does not really matter, then I might just connect to the radiator in which ever way makes all the hoses route to the external cooler with the least restrictions and bends
I ran my cooler on the driver side, but more toward the center, thus avoiding having to snake my hoses near the a/c hard lines
and I have a magnafine in series

It does matter. I can't remember if the left or right lines out of the transmission is the outlet though.
 
It does matter. I can't remember if the left or right lines out of the transmission is the outlet though.

Its not right or left its Upper or Lower transmission lines. The lower one is the supply line from the tranny. Doesn't matter which line it goes into the radiator tranny cooler, they both lead thru the same path out to the other. Luck and enjoy. :cowboy:
 

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