Back Window Up Hack with Factory Key Fob
- Thread starter dpodo
- Start date
So for those who have done this mod.... Dont you have to hold down the window down button for 3 seconds or so to get the down pulse. That seems crazy to have to hold down the button for 6 seconds. Or am I wrong and each time you press the window button you get a pulse on the wire and the 3 seconds is timed by the ecu to prevent unintended rolldowns. I could go out and check for myself but I figured I might ask first. I am already using the stock keyfob for remote start (3 lock pulses) so this would be a great mod for the stock keyfob. Thanks for all the info.
4Runner8
New member
do tell about this mod :hungry:
I used a Avital 4003 remote start module somewhere in the tune of $45 bucks. This module allows it to kick off with 1, 2 or 3 pulses. (I used 3) I simply found the lock wire in the drivers kick panel and wired that up to the 4003 input trigger. Now when I press the lock button three times, it turns on the ignition and starts up. Mine is a 2008 so I did have to use the immobilizer bypass kit as well. The one I used was the PKALL which I think that was about $40ish. It truly was a really easy install.
QUOTED FROM THE12VOLT.com
WIRE COLOR POLARITY LOCATION
Battery WHITE/BLUE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 1 BLACK/RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 2 BLUE/YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Accessory 1 WHITE/GREEN (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Starter 1 GREEN/BLACK (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Anti-Theft Type UNIVERSAL IMMOBILIZER
Anti-Theft Descript THE KEY SENDS AN RF SIGNAL TO THE BCM MODULE THROUGH AN ANTENNA LOCATED AROUND THE IGNITION CYLINDER
Key Sense GREEN/YELLOW (-) IGNTION SWITCH HARNESS
Tachometer BLACK/WHITE (-) AT ECM MODULE BEHIND GLOVEBOX
ALSO IN THE DATA LINK CONNECTOR UNDER DRIVER DASH ON SOME MODELS
Speed Sense VIOLET/RED (AC) AT ECM MODULE BEHIND GLOVEBOX
Parking Lights GREEN (+) TOP LEFT PLUG AT FUSE BOS OR DRIVERS DOOR SILL HARNESS
Brake Lights GREEN/YELLOW (+) AT SWITCH ABOVE PEDAL OR DRIVERS DOOR SILL HARNESS
Horn GREEN/RED (-) IN HARNESS AT STEERING COLUMN
Power Unlock GREEN (-) IN DRIVERS DOOR HARNESS
DOUBLE PULSE TO UNLOCK ALL DOORS
Power Lock BLUE (-) IN DRIVERS DOOR HARNESS
NOTE: Be sure to solder the connections for the immobilizer at the ignition switch (only 2 wires - data and key sense) . This caused me lots of grief. I normally just use tap connectors but the wiring is too small for the taps and you are dealing with a clock signal so soldering is best for that application.
To clarify this point: Holding down the back window button on the keyfob for 3 seconds produces the beep/bck-window-down command from the ECU. Keeping the button down for an additional 3 seconds won't do anything. The button has to be released and immediately pressed again for 3 seconds to produce the 2nd pulse that triggers the TR7 module to roll the back window up.
Regarding the question of alarm systems, it seems to me the factory system would have 3 channels: unlock, lock, and back-window-down, so that any after market functions that use the lock/unlock channel would have no effect on the back-window-down channel. I don't have an aftermarket alarm, though, so someone who does might know differently.
Maybe it is different on the 2006+ models but my 2004 only takes about one second of pressing to get the rear window roll down to activate (with beep). It's a full second. After you release it, you have to press it for a full second again. I double checked the owner's manual and that's how long it says there too. Now it might feel like 3 seconds. . . .:sleepy:
Ok thanks for clarifying that for me. It may only be 1 second but it sure seems a bit longer than that. So you do have to make it initiate a down command and then another to go back up. So 2 beeps and 2+ seconds. that would be nice if you could do simple presses instead of holding it down twice. Thanks again!
Yes. All the doors lock. Good when you just want to throw something in the back while shopping. Slight irritation when you are getting into the car (but what I usually do is leave it down and put it up from inside).
cali_axela
New member
I was just whining about that back window yesterday, going to give this a try (but skip the mag sensor)!
sigepbiker
Member
This is an awesome mod! Can any of you that made this mod show how you took apart the tailgate cover to get to the controls? Pictures are best but I know it's been awhile since you made this mod. Thanks.
Here you go.
Attachments
Thanks to Depodo and Asmara for their helpful comments and detail on this mod. This is such a cool mod for my tailgate (2008 4TR). I'm also doing a momentary switch to open the tail gate from inside the truck. But I need some help with the wiring scenario. Here are a few questions?
thanks for your help,
Mag reed switch.
1. I've got a reed switch with a COM and two NO connections (normally open).
If i understand correctly I wire the Backdoor ECU (#25) to the COMM on
the mag switch ? and the mag switch NO connection to the GREEN trigger
on the TR7?
If i understand correctly, when the circuit for the Mag is closed (window
fully open) the ECU #25 sends positive voltage and completes the circuit to
the TR7 input trigger. if the key fob is pressed 2x in 5 seconds, the TR7
sends output to the RELAY on the BLUE wire - which sends output to the #5
V-Y, and #19 LG-B on the BACKDOOR ECU.
Is this correct ? I'm not sure if the wiring of the Mag reed sw is correct?
Backdoor ECU to Relay.
1. The #5 V-Y, and the #19 LG-B connect to what on the RELAY? the normal ON
or the normal OFF ? Does the BLUE wire from the TR7 connect to the coil on
the
RELAY ?
Not sure.
heres the relay layout. i've used non-proportional font
to lay it out.
normal normal
on off
+----------+
| |
| - - |
| |
| - - |
| |
| - - |
| |
| | | |
+----------+
coil
PAC TR7
1. Where did you pickup the constant 12v to RED wire for the TR7 ?
Not sure of the best place to pick this up ?
Green GOOP ?
Asmara used some type of green goop to wrap the wire harnesses with ?
Seems like it was fairly heavy duty and durable ? Anyone know what this was
? I'll send him a PM, just in case.
Last edited:
Mojav:
Mag reed switch: the point of the mag switch is to prevent the 12volts from B9-25 from reaching the input trigger wire (green wire) of the TR7 *except* when the back window is down. So yes, B9-25 goes to one side of your mag switch, the other side goes to the green trigger wire of the PAC TR7. When the window is fully open, the mag switch is closed; hence clicking on the key fob back-window button causes the voltage from the ECU that tries to crank the back window down to act as a trigger to the TR7. Two pulses within five seconds (the programmed trigger) in turn causes the blue output wire of the TR7 to go hot (+12v) for 5 seconds.
The relay, in response to the 12volts, closes the two contacts for 5 seconds. The two contacts are connected to B9-5 and B9-19. Essentially you are shorting B9-5 to B9-19 for five seconds, long enough for the back window to go back up. I don't recall the exact terminal layout of a standard relay, but if you look on the relay itself or the relay packaging it should have a diagram of the connector setup. You can test the relay function if you have a voltmeter and a dc power source. Hope that helps. PM me if you have any more questions.
Mag reed switch: the point of the mag switch is to prevent the 12volts from B9-25 from reaching the input trigger wire (green wire) of the TR7 *except* when the back window is down. So yes, B9-25 goes to one side of your mag switch, the other side goes to the green trigger wire of the PAC TR7. When the window is fully open, the mag switch is closed; hence clicking on the key fob back-window button causes the voltage from the ECU that tries to crank the back window down to act as a trigger to the TR7. Two pulses within five seconds (the programmed trigger) in turn causes the blue output wire of the TR7 to go hot (+12v) for 5 seconds.
The relay, in response to the 12volts, closes the two contacts for 5 seconds. The two contacts are connected to B9-5 and B9-19. Essentially you are shorting B9-5 to B9-19 for five seconds, long enough for the back window to go back up. I don't recall the exact terminal layout of a standard relay, but if you look on the relay itself or the relay packaging it should have a diagram of the connector setup. You can test the relay function if you have a voltmeter and a dc power source. Hope that helps. PM me if you have any more questions.
Dpodo,
Thanks for the feedback. I'm pretty good on the details. I sent you a PM to confirm the mag switch wiring... and the connects on the relay. I got a relay from Napa Auto, a basic? application relay.
As for the constant (+) to the RED, the FSM that I have for the BackDoor ECU does not indicate the constant power. I could test for it ,but your connection I'd favor. cheers, Mojav
Attachments
Continuing with Wiring
Dpodo and Asmara,
Here is my layout for the Backdoor ECU wiring, that I think should work. I have to set aside the TR7, due to programming difficulty but I'm trying to test the wiring as shown.
1. I've implemented the Rear Door Unlatch with a momentary switch... see #22 and #10 wires. Works well.... !!
2. Below the ECU is the schematic and layout of the relay. I've listed what each connector should do...
when I test with #5 from the ECU by connecting it from the ECU to the relay it locks the doors... not sure if this right...I may have to find something else on the relay to connect #5 to. #19 from the ECU to the relay does not seem to trip anything.
3. Once I get the TR7 to work, it should go into place. probably #14 is the TR7 constant power.... and I'll ground the black on the TR7 to body ground.
4. the magnetic switch, has the COM side connected to #25 on the ECU and its planned that the NOTCLOSED side is run to the GREEN for the TR7
So far.
Mojav
Dpodo and Asmara,
Here is my layout for the Backdoor ECU wiring, that I think should work. I have to set aside the TR7, due to programming difficulty but I'm trying to test the wiring as shown.
1. I've implemented the Rear Door Unlatch with a momentary switch... see #22 and #10 wires. Works well.... !!
2. Below the ECU is the schematic and layout of the relay. I've listed what each connector should do...
when I test with #5 from the ECU by connecting it from the ECU to the relay it locks the doors... not sure if this right...I may have to find something else on the relay to connect #5 to. #19 from the ECU to the relay does not seem to trip anything.
3. Once I get the TR7 to work, it should go into place. probably #14 is the TR7 constant power.... and I'll ground the black on the TR7 to body ground.
4. the magnetic switch, has the COM side connected to #25 on the ECU and its planned that the NOTCLOSED side is run to the GREEN for the TR7
So far.
Mojav
