Back Window Up Hack with Factory Key Fob

What type of taps is everyone using to get a signal? I tried tapping into the back of the connector, but didn't have solid core wire and it hasn't really worked for me. Can anyone recommend a decent t tap?
 
Working on this mod along with adding the internal tailgate release mod and rear window / door lock controls in the cargo area mod (the latter two aka Ultimate camping mod- rear window up / down and hatch pop with ignition off! ).

I realized part way through that there are 3 versions of the schematic in this thread for doing the back window up from factory key fob with different ones adding or removing some information (and questions or comments about the other two mods) so I decided to redo it. I put all 3 mods on one drawing since one is already working with half of the wiring involved in the other 2 mods. Hopefully that helps someone else down the road.

I'll also throw the PAC TR7 programming instructions in here (note that I powered and programmed mine right at the vehicle battery as that seemed the easiest way to do it) as detailed in post 13 by Asmara.

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/777137-post13.html
The hardest part was probably programming the TR-7. It's not actually hard but the instructions are a bit complicated due to all the different options.

Here's my version of the instructions specific to this install. You will be using option 15.

First note that you use the unused (for this install) brown wire to program the TR-7.

Do this with the window up so you don't have to worry about anything.

1. Pull the connector from the bottom of the TR-7.
2. Switch the programming switch to on.
3. Connect the black wire to ground
4. Plug the connector back in. Look on the face of the unit where the PAC audio URL is. The LED is under the plastic here.
5. Touch the brown wire to ground 15 times. The TR-7 will flash 15 times (after a couple of seconds)
6. Touch the brown wire to ground 2 times. The TR-7 will flash twice (after a couple of seconds).
7. Touch the brown wire to ground once. (this is the tricky part). The TR-7 will flash quickly. Then after 3 seconds it will do it again. You are waiting until you see a triple flash. It's really kind of like a set of double flashes that happen three times really fast.
8. Touch the brown wire to ground 5 times. The TR-7 will flash 5 times slowly.
9. Wait a bit and the TR-7 will flash rapidly for about 3 seconds. You are done.
10. Put the programming switch back to the off position.


Just to clarify; regarding the seventh step, by tapping the wire once, you are initiating the timer count. What you will see are sets of really quick flashes. The first set (one set of three flashes) means that it is asking for a time interval in minutes. Because we don't want any minutes, we wait until the second set of flashes (two sets of three). This stands for the tens place in seconds, however again we don't have any, so we wait until the third set (three sets of three flashes). This is where you tap the brown wire 5 times to signal 5 seconds. After it repeats your input by flashing 5 times slowly, it will do four sets of three. This means if you mess up, tap once to restart the timer sequence. If you did not mess up, it will flash constantly for 3 seconds. You are done.
 

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What type of taps is everyone using to get a signal? I tried tapping into the back of the connector, but didn't have solid core wire and it hasn't really worked for me. Can anyone recommend a decent t tap?

You need to use smaller taps that match the wire gauge size. A standard 12-16 Ga tap won't cut it.
 
Game changer mod. I installed a 80% off road swing out tire care so opening and closing the hatch became a chore. I use it all the time to get everyday items like groceries out of the car. :D
 
now what if i wanted to trick the ECU into thinking the back window is always fully closed.. so that my wiper,defrost and backdoor lock will work. !! i deleted the roll down window system and can only hope to see everything work again !! thx in advance.
 

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