Back Window Up Hack with Factory Key Fob

[sigepbiker]

[MENTION=47689]dpodo[/MENTION] i am wanting to have a window switch in the inside of the hatch. got any idea on how i should wire it?

If you find a momentary switch that is (on)-off-(on), I think the wiring should look something like this:
Switch Pin--------->Connector Wire
Up Button Pin -----> B5 Pin 10 (Y-R)
Down Button Pin --> B5 Pin 8 (B-L)
Input Pin ---------> B5 Pin 19 (B-Y)

I attached the Power Window wiring diagram for you to look over.

 

[n210wagon]

Anybody else working on this?
I have all the parts wired up I'm just wondering if anyone can clarify which type of mag switch is needed?
Normally open or normally closed and are both leads from the switch the same?
This is the only part im not 100% clear on

I see the diagram says
Green wire from PAC7 to mag switch +NC
Mag switch to B9-25 R-B mag switch COM

Thanks for your help with this

:sadwave:

 

[sigepbiker]

Anybody else working on this?
I have all the parts wired up I'm just wondering if anyone can clarify which type of mag switch is needed?
Normally open or normally closed and are both leads from the switch the same?
This is the only part im not 100% clear on

I see the diagram says
Green wire from PAC7 to mag switch +NC
Mag switch to B9-25 R-B mag switch COM

Thanks for your help with this

:sadwave:

You want the magnet switch to be normally open. That will cause the magnet to close the circuit between the Rear Computer and the PAC relay. Then the window roll up signal will only work when the window is in the down position.

This type of magnet switch has both a NO and NC, so only use the NO and COM pin.

I hope you feel like me after this mod is finished, "That was easy, what made me struggle through this." I blanked on how to reset the rear computer after unplugging the B9 connector paired perfectly with a flat tire and no way to lower the spare since the hatch wouldn't open...

 

[n210wagon]

cool thanks again

i have the correct mag switch and will install it tonight
:jaw:

 

[n210wagon]

I used the NC & COM pins on the mag switch
Everything is installed and working

After install I recommend disconnecting battery for 10 min
Reinstall battery and it's good to go

Thanks again for your help

 

[pgrubaugh]

Can't roll window back down (after up) for roughly 45 seconds

Thanks everyone for your help. I was able to get my system working as well. I did notice one bit of odd behavior though. After I roll the window back up, I am unable to roll the window back down for roughly 45 seconds. During this time, the PAC TR-7 has it's LED lit. Once the light goes off, everything works normally. Is this normal behavior?? if not, I assume I programmed the TR-7 improperly. I would find this odd since everything else is working great, and at no point did I touch the Brown PAC wire to anything for more than the 15 times.

FYI ... my set-up did involve the Mag Switch (I know some people chose not to).

 

[pgrubaugh]

Fixed it

I did notice one bit of odd behavior though. After I roll the window back up, I am unable to roll the window back down for roughly 45 seconds. .

I figured out that I programmed it wrong. After reading the PAC directions and cross referencing to Asmara's instructions I realized when I programmed the Delay Timer, my 5 brown wire touches were in the 10 second timer slot vs. the 1 second timer slot. Hence why it had a timer delay of 50 seconds instead of 5. Super stoked about this mod. Wanted this functionality since the day I bought it! Thanks all!

 

[mace4runner]

cool mod - i wish it was easier to do. HA. seems like a lot of work.

 

[vfgyhh]

you know your stuff. I can do lights, speakers, and accesories all day long, but this is waaaaay over my head.

 

[BlueHenT4R]

I'm too lazy to do this mod, but awesome writeup OP. That being said...

My apologies in advance if this was already answered, but is there a way to make my T4R do the solid tone and not allow me to lock it with the fob if my back window is down? I have left the back window down twice accidentally in the past month. Thank God it didn't rain! If it just did the solid tone the same as when a door is left open, then that would have saved me.

 

[COn4mer]

I'm too lazy to do this mod, but awesome writeup OP. That being said...

My apologies in advance if this was already answered, but is there a way to make my T4R do the solid tone and not allow me to lock it with the fob if my back window is down? I have left the back window down twice accidentally in the past month. Thank God it didn't rain! If it just did the solid tone the same as when a door is left open, then that would have saved me.

The back window up hack is definitely on my to-do list. There are a couple of things that bother me about the back window operation, and I've been trying to figure out how to incorporate additional mods into this hack to get around them. You just gave me an idea how to possibly solve one of these problems, and yours at the same time BlueHenT4R. It has always bothered me that when you lower the back window with the remote, the interior lights do not come on, yet they come on when lowering the window with the key. Since I usually do my grocery shopping at night, it would be really nice if the interior lights came on for you. Some people might say just reach up and turn on the light, but hey, isn't this thread and others like it all about convenience? And the fact that those people are reading this thread in the first place means that they probably subscribe to the same "work smarter not harder" philosophy as the rest of us. Anyway, getting back to a possible solution, supposing when the window is down and the magnetic switch is activated, it grounds one of the door switches at the same time, through a second set of contacts in the relay which isolates the door switch from the rest of the window up circuit? This would turn on the interior lights, AND activate the door open beep warning if the remote door lock was pressed with the back window down. Anyone who does not want to implement the entire back window up hack could install just the magnetic switch to obtain this function, without the relay.

The second thing that bothers me is that the doors lock when closing the back window, as the OP alluded to. I am usually getting in my car after closing the back window. Supposing then after the circuit has closed the back window, there is another short pulse across the window down contacts? Long enough to unlock the doors, but not long enough to start the window opening again. I'm not sure yet if this would require a second PAC TR7 module.

Will report back on the success or failure of these ideas if and when I get around to doing this hack. If anyone else is interested in adding these additional mods, please comment on your ideas, or let us know how you did it.

 

[Asmara]

Anyway, getting back to a possible solution, supposing when the window is down and the magnetic switch is activated, it grounds one of the door switches at the same time, through a second set of contacts in the relay which isolates the door switch from the rest of the window up circuit? This would turn on the interior lights, AND activate the door open beep warning if the remote door lock was pressed with the back window down. Anyone who does not want to implement the entire back window up hack could install just the magnetic switch to obtain this function, without the relay.

That's what I thought of when I saw BlueHenT4R's post. It would be a pretty straight forward mod and uncomplicated. The only drawback I thought of was that if you wanted to drive with the window down, the 4Runner would think that a door was open and the interior lights would stay on. Same thing if you wanted to leave the window down for any extended periord of time.

If you can't live with that, another solution would be to tie the switch into the circuit that goes active when the key is left in the ignition. You don't get the solid beep but the doors won't lock when you try to use the fob.

 

[acronin2]

Finally got around to completing this mod last weekend while I was doing my back up camera install. Everything went smoothly thanks to everyones tips and advice on this thread. The hardest part, not including programing of TR7, was trying to make everything tight and neat and also mounting the mag switch. Thanks again to [MENTION=22661]Asmara[/MENTION] and [MENTION=47689]dpodo[/MENTION] and all the others on here. Love this mod!

 

[kalamen]

Correct relay?

Is this the correct relay? I wired everything up, checked all connections, programmed the tr7, but I can't get the window to go back up. I never hear the relay making noise so I don't know if I have a bad one or possibly the wrong one. Thanks.

 

[Asmara]

that looks right.

What about your mag switch, is it closed? Check it when the window is down. It should read 0 ohms (or if you use one of those light testers the light should come on). If you don't have either, short it out so that the mag switch show always closed for testing.

One other thing. Make sure that you can raise the window with the key in the liftgate. That is the mechanism used so if that doesn't work for some reason, the mod won't either.

 

[kalamen]

Thanks Asmara. After I couldn't get it to work with the magnetic switch, I pulled that out of the equation for testing purposes by connecting the two wires that go to the magnetic switch. I do plan on adding the switch once I get it to function.

I am able to insert my key and roll the window up. Also, when I press the window button twice on the fob, the light on the tr7 comes on for a few seconds. I also took the cover off of the relay and pressed the connection and the window goes up when I do that. However, I have to hold that down to have it go all the way up. If I release that connection inside the relay, the window stops wherever it is, exactly how it does it with the key in the lock.

 

[Asmara]

Thanks Asmara. After I couldn't get it to work with the magnetic switch, I pulled that out of the equation for testing purposes by connecting the two wires that go to the magnetic switch. I do plan on adding the switch once I get it to function.

I am able to insert my key and roll the window up. Also, when I press the window button twice on the fob, the light on the tr7 comes on for a few seconds. I also took the cover off of the relay and pressed the connection and the window goes up when I do that. However, I have to hold that down to have it go all the way up. If I release that connection inside the relay, the window stops wherever it is, exactly how it does it with the key in the lock.

When you use the fob with the relay cover off, can you see the relay move? If not then your TR7 is not wired or not programmed correctly.

 

[kalamen]

I tested the relay and that is working. I reprogrammed the pac7 and am confident that is correct. I have verified the connection to the b9-25 that I have is getting power when I press the window button on the fob and it does. The weird thing is that my blue wire on the pac7 has constant power and I thought it should only get power when the pac7 gets the double signal within 5 seconds. Maybe I have a defective one or I am missing something. It seems that since the blue wire from the tr7 has constant power, I should be able to touch it to 86 on the relay and it should roll up, but it doesn't.

 

[Asmara]

I tested the relay and that is working. I reprogrammed the pac7 and am confident that is correct. I have verified the connection to the b9-25 that I have is getting power when I press the window button on the fob and it does. The weird thing is that my blue wire on the pac7 has constant power and I thought it should only get power when the pac7 gets the double signal within 5 seconds. Maybe I have a defective one or I am missing something. It seems that since the blue wire from the tr7 has constant power, I should be able to touch it to 86 on the relay and it should roll up, but it doesn't.

The blue while should not always be hot. I'd break it down in to different testing parts.

First, roll the down the window, grab 12v somewhere (besides the pac7) and put it to 86 on the relay. Does the window go up? If not, you have relay (or relay wiring issues).

If that works then you have to look at the Pac7 (which seems more likely given your 12v output issue).

 

[kalamen]

I realized the connector supplied with the relay was bad, so I made direct connections to the relay instead. Now if I disconnect the blue wire from the tr7 to the relay and instead supply power to the post directly from the battery, it rolls up like it should. I am guessing that I still have a bad tr7