Back Window Up Hack with Factory Key Fob

[Asmara]

I realized the connector supplied with the relay was bad, so I made direct connections to the relay instead. Now if I disconnect the blue wire from the tr7 to the relay and instead supply power to the post directly from the battery, it rolls up like it should. I am guessing that I still have a bad tr7

If the blue is always hot yes but I would double check the programming one more time. I remember it being tricky to get right. They may have also changed the firmware in it so read the directions in case the programming steps have changed.

Also make sure you are doing the programming using the brown wire that is otherwise unused. I assume you saw them but check out my programming instructions here just in case it is helpful.

 

[kalamen]

I read through the instructions, which were extremely helpful. The led in the tr7 reacts exactly as you described. I also read the instructions that came with it and they still match what you describe.

I can't figure out why the blue wire won't power the window if it is hot. The relay simply won't click over. If I disconnect the blue wire and bring power to that terminal direct from the battery, it powers up. Therefore, even if there is an issue with the tr7, the blue wire has power so it seems that it should raise the window. The blue wire doesn't have as much power as the one direly from the battery but it doesn't seem like that should matter.

 

[Asmara]

I read through the instructions, which were extremely helpful. The led in the tr7 reacts exactly as you described. I also read the instructions that came with it and they still match what you describe.

I can't figure out why the blue wire won't power the window if it is hot. The relay simply won't click over. If I disconnect the blue wire and bring power to that terminal direct from the battery, it powers up. Therefore, even if there is an issue with the tr7, the blue wire has power so it seems that it should raise the window. The blue wire doesn't have as much power as the one direly from the battery but it doesn't seem like that should matter.

When you are checking the blue wire for power, are you using a multi-meter? Check it to chassis ground, find a bolt somewhere and see if it still shows power.

The problem is that there may be voltage but no current. It could be a problem with the TR7, and high resistance. It would show voltage but not pass enough current to do anything. Put your multi-meter in amp mode, hit the green wire with 12volts twice within 5 seconds (to activate the TR7) and then try to use the blue wire to light something up (or run the relay). Is there any amperage?

I think it is looking like a bad TR7 at this point.

 

[kalamen]

Thanks. I have been using a multi meter. I will try to program it again and then I will set it up to run a light bulb and test it to see if I am getting any amperage. If I don't, it looks like I will be ordering a new TR7. Thanks for the guidance.:hatsoff:

 

[kalamen]

Looks like it is a bad tr7. I hooked everything up with the multimeter in line in between the tr7 and the relay on the blue wire. I hit the green wire twice with 12v and the led on the tr7 lights up and stays lit for 5 seconds and then goes off so I know it is programmed right but I am getting no amp reading. I will be ordering a new tr7.

 

[kalamen]

It was a bad tr7. I purchased a new one, programmed it, installed it and it works like a champ. Great modification.

 

[Asmara]

It was a bad tr7. I purchased a new one, programmed it, installed it and it works like a champ. Great modification.

Glad to hear it. That was a tricky one.

 

[sull625]

Thanks for the write up. I am interested in doing this myself.

 

[DreamRun08]

It seems like there have been a number of people with bad TR7's. Im woundering hlow long they will last and if there are more people who have had issues?

 

[DreamRun08]

Great mod though,
thanks for the write up!

 

[Morgan040]

This is awesome!

 

[YourUncleFats]

Got this working for 3rd gen for those following and wondering... have pics and instructions, just have to make a write up.

Big thanks for [MENTION=47689]dpodo[/MENTION] and this thread for the inspiration.

In the mean time, enjoy...

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/o-wHwo29G4o" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[YourUncleFats]

for the 3rd genner following... here it is!

3rd gen window roll up with factory remote

 

[Juppers]

Excellent write up. I will probably do this in the next few weeks as time permits. Only downside for me is I changed down to require 2 quick presses instead of one long press, so up will take 4 quick presses. Still worth it to avoid installing a full alarm just to get that feature back I had on my 3rd gen.

 

[Juppers]

I wonder if this could be done at B5 to avoid the locks being activated. Use the blue 12V to power B5 using a diode to avoid back-powering the entire accessory circuit and the relay that will basically push the front cabin rear window control.

 

[SCY7H3]

Great stuff, another project!

 

[rokr1292]

Got mine finished today!

Fried my first TR7 when I tried to program it off of the 12v socket in the rear. I dont think that wouldve worked no matter how I tried to program it, but the replacement was DEFINITELY easier to program using the battery. Even knowing this, I had an issue programming my TR7 til I dug into the included instructions and saw that it advised switching the module out of programming mode when finished. I dont know if that is actually required, but my module didnt seem to remember the programming until I attempted to do so and flicked the switch before disconnecting the module from power.

Programming was otherwise very easy, thanks to all the confirmation and summary of the process in this thread. if you have difficulty seeing the LED, do as I did and pull the bottom part of the TR7 cover off so you can see the led on the PCB.

The other issue I ran into was with the mag switch. initially I mounted it as some pictures in this thread illustrated, but I guess my switch was slightly less lenient than others. I had to add a foam spacer to the bottom of the magnet side in order for it to be close enough to the switch side, mounted on the bottom of the tailgate.

For about $25 (I'm not counting the TR7 I fried) this is the most interesting mod I've completed to date.

Thanks everyone for their contributions!

 

[neurotictim]

You just saved me from trying to sort this out myself, hours of head scratching at least. Love the use of the TR-7. I've used them on a ton of projects, always recommend having a few handy.

 

[randy88fj62]

I need some help

So I installed the TR7 and wired everything up. The mod works but it only rolls up the window up until the last inch then it stops.

What am I doing wrong that would cause it to roll up almost all the way but not the last inch?

I retried the programming and same issue.

 

[randy88fj62]

Got it to work after rereading 4sport0717’s post. I guess I was not doing the last step of programming correctly.

Thanks everyone for this great thread and info.