Looking at the EWD it shows 60A ABS, 10A GAUGE, 10A ECU-IG, and 10A STOP. I'm assuming the 10A STOP and 10A GAUGE wouldn't be it so that just leaves 10A ECU-IG to try. Doesn't look like there is anything critical powered by that fuse.
Bad Luck's Boring Build Biography
- Thread starter Bad Luck
- Start date
Patrick,
I repeated the 60mph>0 test with my 2000 3.4 5 speed on the way to and home from the dog park. At 60mph I depressed the clutch and shifted to neutral. My tach dropped to about 1700-1800rpm for a couple seconds, then dropped to about 900rpm, where it stayed until I was completely stopped. It then dropped to 650-700rpm, its normal idle w/ a/c off. Both tests. The clutch position had no impact on the engine speed.
I didn't get you a video as I'm just not that skillful.
I repeated the 60mph>0 test with my 2000 3.4 5 speed on the way to and home from the dog park. At 60mph I depressed the clutch and shifted to neutral. My tach dropped to about 1700-1800rpm for a couple seconds, then dropped to about 900rpm, where it stayed until I was completely stopped. It then dropped to 650-700rpm, its normal idle w/ a/c off. Both tests. The clutch position had no impact on the engine speed.
I didn't get you a video as I'm just not that skillful.
Thanks for checking for me! Any additional data is always helpful. I'm starting to wonder if I'll ever get to the root cause of it.
Was it a gradual drop from 1700-1800 rpm to 900 rpm? Or was it a fast drop similar to if you had revved the engine in neutral?
Perhaps a little slower than if I had held 1700 with my foot and let off, but not much. I think the drop slowed at about 1100 down to 900. And when I stopped it then slowly dropped to 700. That's normal for me.
Remember the idle dashpots on carbureted engines? Like that.
7/16/2022 204488 miles
-Replaced upper and lower radiator hoses (16572-62090 16571-62070) and tension clamps (90467-37005 x4) $42
-Replaced shift knob with OEM leather knob (33504-20120-C0) $65
-Replaced fan clutch with Aisin FCT-013 $90
-Filled/purged engine cooling system with Toyota red coolant $FREE
Ever since I replaced the radiator all the hose connections have been seeping coolant. Could have been due to weak tension clamps or not getting the clamps back in the exact same spot, but either way I decided to replace the upper and lower radiator hoses and tension clamps. I caught the current coolant in a clean 5 gallon bucket to reuse, replaced the hoses, and reassembled. Easy peasy. Next came replacing the fan clutch which turned out to be a bear of a chore. It took a lot of manual persuasion with a pry bar and 4 pound hammer for the fan clutch to finally separate from the fan clutch hub. After that it was a straight forward repair. Filled/purged the engine cooling system while parked on a steep incline and monitored the overflow level for the next few trips. Adding coolant to the reservoir as necessary.
I also replaced the shift knob to the leather factory OEM one. It originally had a leather shift knob when I bought it, but it was well worn and missing some leather. I'm not sure if I'll keep it or not. It's a weird dry leather feeling. I was hoping for a feel closer to the steering wheel. I'll give it a few weeks to see if it grows on me.
-Replaced upper and lower radiator hoses (16572-62090 16571-62070) and tension clamps (90467-37005 x4) $42
-Replaced shift knob with OEM leather knob (33504-20120-C0) $65
-Replaced fan clutch with Aisin FCT-013 $90
-Filled/purged engine cooling system with Toyota red coolant $FREE
Ever since I replaced the radiator all the hose connections have been seeping coolant. Could have been due to weak tension clamps or not getting the clamps back in the exact same spot, but either way I decided to replace the upper and lower radiator hoses and tension clamps. I caught the current coolant in a clean 5 gallon bucket to reuse, replaced the hoses, and reassembled. Easy peasy. Next came replacing the fan clutch which turned out to be a bear of a chore. It took a lot of manual persuasion with a pry bar and 4 pound hammer for the fan clutch to finally separate from the fan clutch hub. After that it was a straight forward repair. Filled/purged the engine cooling system while parked on a steep incline and monitored the overflow level for the next few trips. Adding coolant to the reservoir as necessary.
I also replaced the shift knob to the leather factory OEM one. It originally had a leather shift knob when I bought it, but it was well worn and missing some leather. I'm not sure if I'll keep it or not. It's a weird dry leather feeling. I was hoping for a feel closer to the steering wheel. I'll give it a few weeks to see if it grows on me.
brillo_76
Elite Member
I believe if your radiator hoses are over 200k or original. They need replaced. They will not reseal properly. It's not the spring clamps. Unless really rotted. It's the hoses themselves. I learned this as tetanus 1 and shitbox when I changed their radiators or timing belt jobs. 
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My maintenance efforts have been rewarded with a message from my 4Runner. The check engine light came on Friday on my way back to work from lunch. P0125 set current and P0171 and P1130 and P1133 pending. I ordered a Denso air fuel sensor for the code and went ahead and ordered a denso maf as well.
RodrickHeffley
Member
lmk if either of those fix the 0125, mine had the same code come on while I was taking it home on Thursday
All of those codes list air/fuel sensor as a possible cause so I’m feeling pretty good about it. I’ll probably hook up my pirate techstream to it on Monday and look at the air/fuel sensor data. If nothing else I doubt it’s ever been replaced and might get a little better fuel economy after changing it like I did with my last 4Runner. I’ll let you know though.
RodrickHeffley
Member
Do you have a link for both? I just pulled a P0171 (in addition to the P0125) on the way home today which leads me to believe I'm having the same problem you are.
You have a 98 so my parts won’t work for you, but you can look it up on denso’s website. ERROR: The request could not be satisfied I’m not sure if denso makes a maf for you or not. The maf is more of a just because part to try for my coasting high idle.
brillo_76
Elite Member
I think they were discontinued. The early years maf is quote costly oem.
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RodrickHeffley
Member
Alright, I couldn't find one there so I'll just get one at O'Reillys with my friends discount, hopefully that's good enough to work
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19963.4lsr5
New member
My 5sp Saturn drops to 900 and stays there until completely stopped. Then drops to 700rpm idle speed. I always thought not going all the way down may have something to do with maintaining a vacuum for the brakes……
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brillo_76
Elite Member
Until I can pull several from the pick and pulls clean them and test run them for a few weeks. That's your best bet. As be quite a while before I have a few oem used ones.
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RodrickHeffley
Member
Until I can pull several from the pick and pulls clean them and test run them for a few weeks. That's your best bet. As be quite a while before I have a few oem used ones.
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Sounds like a plan to me, once you've got one DM me and hopefully we can get something worked out! Thanks so much
brillo_76
Elite Member
Need to find some clean and test them.. Then we see what we have available
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7/30/2022 204747 miles
-Replaced air/fuel sensor (Denso 234-9003) $120
-Replaced MAF sensor (Denso 197-6020) $74
-Finally greased front and rear driveshafts (Lucas Red "N" Tacky #2) (McNaught k32 Grease Gun) $60
Replaced the air/fuel sensor for several DTC's I've been getting. Never did get a chance to drive around with my pirate techstream and watch data. Replaced the MAF sensor as well. Probably didn't need to. I'll keep the old MAF as a spare. Finally got around to greasing the front and rear driveshafts. Man was that messy. Mostly because I was trying to push out all the old grease that the manufacturer used. The greases are compatible, but it makes me feel better. Skid plates are still dripping oil at a slow, but steady pace. I think I have a leaking oil pan in addition to a leaking rear main seal. I'm not in a big hurry to address either of those. I have more pressing projects like my never ending kitchen remodel.
-Replaced air/fuel sensor (Denso 234-9003) $120
-Replaced MAF sensor (Denso 197-6020) $74
-Finally greased front and rear driveshafts (Lucas Red "N" Tacky #2) (McNaught k32 Grease Gun) $60
Replaced the air/fuel sensor for several DTC's I've been getting. Never did get a chance to drive around with my pirate techstream and watch data. Replaced the MAF sensor as well. Probably didn't need to. I'll keep the old MAF as a spare. Finally got around to greasing the front and rear driveshafts. Man was that messy. Mostly because I was trying to push out all the old grease that the manufacturer used. The greases are compatible, but it makes me feel better. Skid plates are still dripping oil at a slow, but steady pace. I think I have a leaking oil pan in addition to a leaking rear main seal. I'm not in a big hurry to address either of those. I have more pressing projects like my never ending kitchen remodel.
8/17/2022 205105 miles
-Replaced windshield through Safelite. Green with blue tint. $385
I had a couple rock chips and an abundance of little sand chips in the windshield. After seeing [MENTION=118429]Sarki[/MENTION] replace his windshield I decided I deserved a new windshield lol I had Safelite come to me at work for the replacement. Of course the day that I scheduled decided to rain, but fortunately I was able to park in the shop in an empty bay for the guy to do the windshield replacement. There were a few rust spots under the windshield rubber molding, but he cleaned them up and put a rust converter then primer on the rust spots. Overall I'm very happy with the result. It's amazing driving with a brand new windshield! I ordered Cerakote Ceramics windshield treatment and trim treatment. They should be arriving today, but it's going to rain for the next week so I will have to wait to apply it. If you are on the fence about getting your windshield replaced DO IT! You won't regret it.
-Replaced windshield through Safelite. Green with blue tint. $385
I had a couple rock chips and an abundance of little sand chips in the windshield. After seeing [MENTION=118429]Sarki[/MENTION] replace his windshield I decided I deserved a new windshield lol I had Safelite come to me at work for the replacement. Of course the day that I scheduled decided to rain, but fortunately I was able to park in the shop in an empty bay for the guy to do the windshield replacement. There were a few rust spots under the windshield rubber molding, but he cleaned them up and put a rust converter then primer on the rust spots. Overall I'm very happy with the result. It's amazing driving with a brand new windshield! I ordered Cerakote Ceramics windshield treatment and trim treatment. They should be arriving today, but it's going to rain for the next week so I will have to wait to apply it. If you are on the fence about getting your windshield replaced DO IT! You won't regret it.
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