KidVermicious
New member
I ran nothing but Moog on my last two trucks ('00 Explorer, '86 4Runner) and was very happy with them, but I think I'm convinced. I won't put Moog on the '99.
As a side note, if you get Toyota parts, get the Tacoma version instead of the 4runner. Taco stuff has a little more beef to it.
Note the shank difference on the tie rod ends
As for using Tacoma parts, I understand this effects the turning radius on the 4runner.
The casting is probably not the failure point for most LBJ's, I think it's usually the ball.
how so?
It's been discussed on here on a few threads. Something to do with the LBJs coming into contact somewhere during the turn, thus Messing with the radius. Do a search and you should find it.
I'm sure some guys already know this, but FWIW I was chatting with the guys at Napa when picking up some replacement LBJ's and they mentioned that Spicer makes their premium chassis line of parts (not the Master ride series, Napa Chassis parts). Their premium line seems pretty good, and has gotten good reviews here. Actually the Napa Chassis line was the same price as the duralast LBJ at autozone.
The casting is probably not the failure point for most LBJ's, I think it's usually the ball.
how so?
I bought the Raybestos parts (which ended up being the 555 part) with a lifetime warranty ....
I have the 555 Tacoma LBJ and OTRE. For me, the tie rod hits the sway bar moumt, leading to reduced turning (significant) and a spongy feel at lock because it is flexing the rack (not good). I need to crawl under there and clearance the sway bar mount a bit.
If I remember correctly, the shank of the ball joint is significantly larger, the ball may be as well. If the ball is larger, This would increase the bearing area of the ball and increase strength.
I was just under my truck this weekend and noticed that the boots on the LBJ are very dry and cracked. Both the LBJs and OTREs are very corroded, even though they have less than 10k miles and I'm not in a salt zone (Oregon).
I bought the Raybestos parts (which ended up being the 555 part) with a lifetime warranty that is supposed to include labor. Has anyone attempted go redeem this? I bought them through rockauto and the item number isn't recognized any longer.
I have the 555 Tacoma LBJ and OTRE. For me, the tie rod hits the sway bar moumt, leading to reduced turning (significant) and a spongy feel at lock because it is flexing the rack (not good). I need to crawl under there and clearance the sway bar mount a bit.
If I remember correctly, the shank of the ball joint is significantly larger, the ball may be as well. If the ball is larger, This would increase the bearing area of the ball and increase strength.
I was just under my truck this weekend and noticed that the boots on the LBJ are very dry and cracked. Both the LBJs and OTREs are very corroded, even though they have less than 10k miles and I'm not in a salt zone (Oregon).
I bought the Raybestos parts (which ended up being the 555 part) with a lifetime warranty that is supposed to include labor. Has anyone attempted go redeem this? I bought them through rockauto and the item number isn't recognized any longer.
So not to dig up an old thread, but I can't seem to post a new thread, and I've searched & read a bit, but don't see this answered anywhere directly.
Is there any way to identify a ball joint's manufacturer by looking at it? If it is OEM, will it definitely have the 555 cast on it? And where does one look for that casting? If it doesn't have the 555 casting, does that mean it is not OEM??
Matt
Just forget about the "555" altogether. It doesn't mean anything.
There's so much Chinese knock-off stuff on the market right now that the only way to know what you have is to buy it directly from the manufacturer.
Even the eBay and Amazon stuff that's being sold as OEM is suspect in a lot of cases.
I work in automotive manufacturing, and this is a big problem right now.
okay, thanks. I don't see the 555 on them, so I got a little worried. It's a sale on this forum, so I'm hoping it's an honorable sale.
Just forget about the "555" altogether. It doesn't mean anything.
There's so much Chinese knock-off stuff on the market right now that the only way to know what you have is to buy it directly from the manufacturer.
Even the eBay and Amazon stuff that's being sold as OEM is suspect in a lot of cases.
I work in automotive manufacturing, and this is a big problem right now.